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I'm hoping to put that $1000 coupon to use on an M235i or a 335i, so the 228i on their autocross track is probably a better test drive than any other option for me.
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Aug 13, 2014 23:38
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Any SoCal goons get into the LA session? I tried to get one the wait list but am not holding my breath.
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Aug 14, 2014 05:57
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Did you call the phone number? I'd try that combined with "I just bought a new BMW".
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Aug 14, 2014 06:11
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Chemmy posted:Did you call the phone number? I'd try that combined with "I just bought a new BMW". I will do that. Might be nice to see how their five series performs at 9/10ths rather than mine, which is barely broken in. I assume they are doing 535s?
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Aug 14, 2014 06:15
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No idea.
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Aug 14, 2014 06:17
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https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4618024149.html Well, the price would need to come down but how does it look? I'm giving up on finding a good e90 (2006 330i or 2009-11 328i) because of stupid prices and poor availability of manual transmissions.
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Aug 14, 2014 16:17
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BraveUlysses posted:https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4618024149.html Get a better picture from the right side dead on and compare the rear door to the quarter...
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Aug 14, 2014 16:24
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I did my rocker cover gasket. Surprisingly easy except for one bolt at the very rear of the engine. I also got my DSC codes pulled: - Vehicle Power < 9V (cleared, fixed by new battery) - Steering angle sensor internal error (cleared but will be retested later) - Pressure sensor 1 So with that. I'm going to get the pressure sensor fixed first and then hope the angle error is temporary as it's about 2x the parts cost and 2x the labour.
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Aug 14, 2014 17:46
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Anybody use the all weather bavauto brand floor mats? They seem like a good deal but it doesn't look like they lock into place like my OE driver's mat does.
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Aug 14, 2014 22:50
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How common are problems with the heads on 1992 325i? My car was randomly reving when in park and I took it to my mechanic. He said that there was compression / pressure (forget the word he used sorry) issues and that the spark plugs got blown out. The car had its 100k work done and only has about 138k miles on it. He said the top and maybe the bottom part of the engine may have problems. I feel like this may get really expensive to fix 
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Aug 15, 2014 00:31
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Enigma89 posted:How common are problems with the heads on 1992 325i? About the only common head issue I hear of regarding the M5x engines is warping after the engine overheats. GDCS indeed.
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Aug 15, 2014 01:15
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Enigma89 posted:How common are problems with the heads on 1992 325i? If this is actually what he said, get a second opinion.
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Aug 15, 2014 01:20
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mafoose posted:If this is actually what he said, get a second opinion. He just told me that the machine shop said the head was not cracked but they found a piston that was having problems. He said to fix that issue (something about replacing rings) it would be $2,600 but because he is taking the engine out he could do the better option for $3,500. I bought the car for $4,000 so I may just sell it for parts and buy another car. Sad because I really liked this car and all I had was pretty bad moments with my first Beamer and has left a bit of a sour taste in my mouth.
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Aug 15, 2014 02:02
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Honestly those engines are pretty drat bulletproof other than the GDCS as mentioned. I'm hoping at this point you haven't given them the ok to do any work. Get a second opinion because there are a lot of things that can lead to a surging/unsteady idle. Also 3.5k for an engine is bullshit. They made a poo poo load of cars using that engine and it should be pretty easy to find a used engine for under 1k...I usually see them going for 4-500.
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Aug 15, 2014 02:37
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Take it somewhere else, to a BMW specific mechanic if he isn't one. None of what you've said has really made any sense. Spark plugs don't blow out from "compression" (if they did spark ignition engines wouldn't be a thing). If spark plugs did blow out they were either loose and/or cross threaded. Generally that can be fixed with a helicoil/timesert. Your last post makes no sense...what machine shop? Did the mechanic take the head off the car?
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Aug 15, 2014 02:42
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Is there a preference for rims/tires for a 2008 135i for winter? For my Mustang the Blizzaks seem to be more recommended.
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Aug 15, 2014 04:42
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Enigma89 posted:He just told me that the machine shop said the head was not cracked but they found a piston that was having problems. He said to fix that issue (something about replacing rings) it would be $2,600 but because he is taking the engine out he could do the better option for $3,500. I bought the car for $4,000 so I may just sell it for parts and buy another car. I just want to add to what Crustachio said that the original problem of "randomly revving in park" sounds a whole lot like a sensor. Why the gently caress does the mechanic have your head apart and at a machine shop during a diagnosis? Have you authorized any work yet?
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Aug 15, 2014 05:25
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I also have a 1992 325i. You can acquire a 1995 M3 engine for that car that will bolt right in in an afternoon and run you less than 2k buy-it-now on ebay. Don't pay 2600 to have your NV engine fixed. EDIT: I asked this on bf.c but didn't get much of a response. I'm swapping diff fluid and I have two bottles of 75w140 that contain friction modifier. I also have a 4oz bottle of friction modifier. How much, if any, of the friction modifier should I add? I was thinking an oz or so just to be safe. The diff is out of the car right now so it's a lot easier to make fluid choices before it goes into the car.
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Aug 15, 2014 12:25
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Enigma89 posted:He just told me that the machine shop said the head was not cracked but they found a piston that was having problems. He said to fix that issue (something about replacing rings) it would be $2,600 but because he is taking the engine out he could do the better option for $3,500. I bought the car for $4,000 so I may just sell it for parts and buy another car. Where do you live? because it would cost very little to find a decent junkyard motor and swap it in over a weekend.
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Aug 15, 2014 15:33
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BraveUlysses posted:Where do you live? because it would cost very little to find a decent junkyard motor and swap it in over a weekend. San Diego
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Aug 15, 2014 16:03
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revmoo posted:I also have a 1992 325i. You can acquire a 1995 M3 engine for that car that will bolt right in in an afternoon and run you less than 2k buy-it-now on ebay. Don't pay 2600 to have your NV engine fixed. Zero. Just use the 75w140. Even that is really thick for a street car, I would have gone with 75w90.
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Aug 15, 2014 16:13
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revmoo posted:I also have a 1992 325i. You can acquire a 1995 M3 engine for that car that will bolt right in in an afternoon and run you less than 2k buy-it-now on ebay. Don't pay 2600 to have your NV engine fixed. Whats your climate like, Rev? 75w140 in Georgia is wayyyy too harsh when its cold, here.
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Aug 15, 2014 16:14
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I'm in Kentucky so similar climate. BMW changed the M3 diff spec for their later model cars and 'backported' the new spec to E36 diffs. I'm not too worried about the choice of gear oil, I've spent enough days reading threads arguing vehemently for either that I'm confident that it'll work just fine. Also my car is garage kept so the amount of times that it gets below freezing can be probably counted on one hand per year. EDIT: I guess I didn't mention that I was putting in an M differential! I probably shouldn't mention I'm also switching to 15W50 haha. revmoo fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Aug 15, 2014 |
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Aug 15, 2014 16:31
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 No rubbing anywhere  16x8 +5 square.
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Aug 16, 2014 01:02
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BlackMK4 posted:
That looks excellent, good job.
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Aug 16, 2014 01:05
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Makes me wish I could get a decent e30 for less than 5k. I miss my old euro e30.
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Aug 16, 2014 01:27
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I just changed my fuel filter this evening; I noticed a drop of fluid on the transmission drain plug. On further investigation, it looks like my selector shaft seal is leaking. Have any of you done this job before while the transmission is still on the vehicle? Obviously, the exhaust and the drive shaft have to come down, but I'll be damned if I'm gonna pay $6-800 in labour ( ) to change an $11 seal.
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Aug 16, 2014 04:31
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It's doable with the transmission in place but not fun. You'll want to remove the trans mounts and jack on the front of the engine (wood on the oilpan) to tilt the transmission down. Don't go too hard as it can snap the injector cover off...ask me how I know. While you're in there I would replace every shift bushing. And install delrin ones in the shift carrier, that makes a huge difference.
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Aug 17, 2014 02:40
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Crustashio posted:Don't go too hard as it can snap the injector cover off...ask me how I know. So...how do you know? You're referring to the cosmetic cover over the injectors, right? That isn't too hard to take off if that's the case. Good call on the shifter bushings; I'm also going to change the giubo while I'm in there whether it needs it or not. Also, I think I'm going to go rent a lift to do the job as it seems it would make it just that much easier (and spend the beer and rent my brother for the day too).
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Aug 17, 2014 03:33
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1999 M3, 79k miles, hardly ever drive the thing My a/c doesn't blow cold and when it's on I get a supercharger-like noise that can be heard here. Is there any hope that it's something other than a bad compressor? I guess it could be a combination of low refrigerant and a bad pulley/tensioner. Is the first step in diagnosing it to add refrigerant and see if I can at least get cold air? edit: With the a/c off but the fan on I do not get that whirring noise. edit2: Just saw that there's a dedicated a/c thread so I'm going to post over there, since this isn't very BMW-specific Easychair Bootson fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 16:15
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[quote="Easychair Bootson" post=" My a/c doesn't blow cold and when it's on I get a supercharger-like noise [/quote] Easychair Bootson posted:1999 M3, 79k miles, hardly ever drive the thing
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Aug 17, 2014 19:02
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Brock Landers posted:I can tell you I've had that noise on several cars, including a number of BMWs and it's not necessarily indicative of a problem. You might be able to drive for a long time with the compressor making noise. I'd check the system charge before rushing to replace the compressor.
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Aug 17, 2014 20:09
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I've got a problem... I may have wasted a dyno session because of poor advice. I would really like to have an accurate baseline reading because reasons. Dyno operator said that "he runs most BMW's in 3rd gear," I found this extremely odd, and actually did my third and final pull in 5th gear (which is 1:1.) But then I posted my results on bimmerforums, only to learn that most S52 ///M cars are done in FOURTH gear. So this is the information I have: 215hp/222tq@4100rpm (3rd gear) 190hp/???tq@?rpm (5th gear) I'm still trying to find out the torque figures for the pull in 5th... But is there any way I can turn this information into a useful, "valid" result for 4th? Or should I just do all future pulls in third? GodDAMNIT.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:59
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Is it really worth worrying about? Looked at this car today: http://nwmsrocks.com/for-sale/2009-bmw-335-i-rwd-sedan-gasoline_5837 Would this be a good buy for 20k? Appears stock, has sport package, adaptive headlights. not sure if the hpfp has been done or not. One minor accident on carfax (no airbags), does not have any records other than regular dealer service that shows up in the carfax.
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Aug 18, 2014 06:19
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To me it is. I was pretty hyped up over getting what I thought were good numbers then got completely shut down.
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Aug 18, 2014 08:20
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If you want to make big numbers, get a snail or a V8. Otherwise, don't bother trying to dyno a strait 6. Its not they don't put out impressive power, its because the two methods I listed above put out even better power.
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Aug 18, 2014 13:58
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ThirstyBuck posted:Anybody use the all weather bavauto brand floor mats? They seem like a good deal but it doesn't look like they lock into place like my OE driver's mat does. I have OEM rubber that does clip in. From memory, I wondered why I didn't do it sooner since the whole set was sub $100. I thought it was a good deal at the time. ECS - whole set w/hardware http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/Floor_Mats/ES2608675/ Just fronts http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/Floor_Mats/ES196751/ Just rears http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Search/SiteSearch/Floor_Mats/ES196734/ Cheap! that's for my 330i, not sure what you're driving.
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Aug 18, 2014 16:02
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Those are quite a bit cheaper than I expected. Also they look identical to E36 mats. I have the same set.
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Aug 18, 2014 16:08
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Well I'm a bit torn on what to do, maybe you guys have some opinions. So I've had my 1996 M3 for just over a year at this point. I just hit 100k miles on the car and I bought it at 89k for $7500. I love the car to death and have dumped (if you've followed my posts) a lot of money into it over the past year. Stuff: AFE cold air intake Ground Control coilover suspension Replaced RTABs and FCABs and both front control arms New water pump and fuel filter (not installed still) Parking break overhaul (rusted mounting plate), new shoes/mounting plate and both rear wheel bearings having to be replaced to access the plate This all totals close to $5k. But I'm moving to Chicago in a couple weeks and the car will be going back into winter storage early. I'll be bringing out the e30 early this year. I'm considering selling the M3 this winter as I won't be driving it until I find a place to properly park it in the city and that won't happen until next spring. The car has a few small rust spots (trunk lid and on the driver side door and a wheel well). My biggest reason for selling are cosmetic, the paint has a number of scratches and those rust spots really concern me. I'm thinking I could cut my losses sell the car for ~$10,000 (I feel like I got the car for cheap). Then next year when I have some more money saved buy a nicer/newer M3 without the rust concerns. I just hate the thought of selling it as it's been my dream to own an M3. Maybe I'm being over dramatic about the rust/scratches but I'm not sure of a good way to deal with it without having the car just resurfaced and painted.
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Aug 18, 2014 16:14
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Popete posted:I just hate the thought of selling it as it's been my dream to own an M3. Maybe I'm being over dramatic about the rust/scratches but I'm not sure of a good way to deal with it without having the car just resurfaced and painted. It depends on the extent of the rust. Do you have any pictures of what shows outside (keep in mind, there's more inside and underneath than what's broken through the paint)?
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Aug 18, 2014 16:32
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EVERYWHERE 
