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I bought a big heavy mirror (probably 20 pounts) with 2 mounting D-rings spaced 39" apart. I mounted one of them to a stud, and put the other one directly in the drywall, because the spacing wouldn't let me mount it in another stud. It seems OK for now. How dumb is this and how likely is it to fall? What should I do instead?
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Aug 18, 2014 16:40
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Large Hardon Collider posted:I bought a big heavy mirror (probably 20 pounts) with 2 mounting D-rings spaced 39" apart. I mounted one of them to a stud, and put the other one directly in the drywall, because the spacing wouldn't let me mount it in another stud. It seems OK for now. How dumb is this and how likely is it to fall? What should I do instead? Did you use some sort of anchor in the drywall? If not, I rate the chance of failure as "high."
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Aug 18, 2014 16:46
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Large Hardon Collider posted:I bought a big heavy mirror (probably 20 pounts) with 2 mounting D-rings spaced 39" apart. I mounted one of them to a stud, and put the other one directly in the drywall, because the spacing wouldn't let me mount it in another stud. It seems OK for now. How dumb is this and how likely is it to fall? What should I do instead? As long as you used a drywall anchor rated for the weight you are putting on it, pretty unlikely. Even very heavy things aren't a problem for no-stud hanging when there's no levering force, like for instance, a big mirror that's flush to the wall. I've got a ~50lb mirror hung with 4 bolts into anchors and I'm not concerned in the least.
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Aug 18, 2014 17:07
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Large Hardon Collider posted:I bought a big heavy mirror (probably 20 pounts) with 2 mounting D-rings spaced 39" apart. I mounted one of them to a stud, and put the other one directly in the drywall, because the spacing wouldn't let me mount it in another stud. It seems OK for now. How dumb is this and how likely is it to fall? What should I do instead? My mirror was previously installed with drywall anchors and the new set of mirror clips I bought came with anchors too. Should be ok
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Aug 18, 2014 17:08
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I have stained pine 2"x2"s between 2 feet and 6 feet long that will be signposts supporting several pounds of painted wooden signs. What is the best easycheap way to stab these signposts into soil and not have them fall over?
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Aug 18, 2014 22:45
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bag of quickrete+post hole digger+ 1/3 or so of total post in the ground
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Aug 18, 2014 22:49
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PuTTY riot posted:bag of quickrete+post hole digger+ 1/3 or so of total post in the ground Sorry, should have been more specific. They will only be in the ground a few days for an event and then removed. It's not my property, but I have permission to stab poo poo into the ground.
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Aug 18, 2014 22:57
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CharlieWhiskey posted:I have stained pine 2"x2"s between 2 feet and 6 feet long that will be signposts supporting several pounds of painted wooden signs. What is the best easycheap way to stab these signposts into soil and not have them fall over?  It's called a fence post driver.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:06
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Motronic posted:
Yeah that's way overkill. Grabbed a pile of these tonight for less than half the price: http://m.homedepot.com/p/Easy-Gardener-15-in-Jumbo-Outdoor-Stake-5261/100124464/ Big enough to screw to a 2x2 and reposition if I need to.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:48
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Yeah that's way overkill. Grabbed a pile of these tonight for less than half the price: You're going to use a fabric stake? Even if you do manage to attach that to the bottom of a 2x2, the first hint of wind against your sign will snap it off. Good luck!
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Aug 19, 2014 12:53
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:You're going to use a fabric stake? Even if you do manage to attach that to the bottom of a 2x2, the first hint of wind against your sign will snap it off. The stake is 15" long with plenty of space for 4 drywall screws. I've put up larger, heavier tents with smaller flimsier stakes and then slept in them for a week. Thanks!
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Aug 19, 2014 13:53
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CharlieWhiskey posted:The stake is 15" long with plenty of space for 4 drywall screws. I've put up larger, heavier tents with smaller flimsier stakes and then slept in them for a week. I think you are misunderstanding the basic physics difference between what those are being asked to do as a ground stake for a tent as opposed to holding a sign straight up. If that works for you, great. But a manual post driver can hardly be considered "overkill" for driving posts. You should have mentioned the part where you are willing to buy a bunch of plastic stakes so you can use drywall screws through them rather than simply slash cutting wooden posts and putting them in the ground like any reasonable person who has put a temporary sign into the ground would expect.
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Aug 19, 2014 17:36
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Maybe he thought, like, you drive the post driver into the ground and then put the signpost in it or something like some sort of strange reinforced steel sleeve signpostholething? In which case, yeah, I guess applying it like that would be overkill? Otherwise, I mean, yeah: it's just a specifcally-shaped hammer, not sure how that can possibly be "overkill."
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Aug 19, 2014 18:19
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Fix it Fast: A tent stake and 4 drywall screws
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Aug 19, 2014 19:35
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Bad Munki posted:Just get the pvc cutters. They're like $10 and give FANTASTIC cuts, every time. No burrs, nothing. I will never saw another piece of pvc so long as I live. Do PVC cutters cut through 3"?
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Aug 20, 2014 01:17
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Does anyone know where I can find this type of screw: I tried Lowes and Radio Shack. Neither had anything remotely close. It's for a Garmin GPS mount. I contacted Garmin, but they said that they couldn't help. emanonii fucked around with this message at 14:16 on Aug 20, 2014 |
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Aug 20, 2014 14:14
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emanonii posted:Does anyone know where I can find this type of screw: Your chances of finding an exact match are probably slim, but you might find something close enough in the specialty screw drawers at an Ace or other small hardware store. Garmin mounts are surprisingly cheap on eBay. I got a good knockoff of the original locking suction mound for $5 shipped.
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Aug 20, 2014 14:29
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emanonii posted:Does anyone know where I can find this type of screw: I used to work for a fastener company. That looks similar to a truss head screw, but that's definitely something custom made. Are the threads metric or US?
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Aug 20, 2014 19:14
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Does anyone have experience installing retrofit windows over the old aluminum track style ones? Any pitfalls I should be aware of? The plan is to take the measurements and place the order with Home Depot this weekend. In my initial talks with the Home Depot person he was pretty casual about how to take measurements. He suggested that I NOT measure from inside of the jamb to inside of Jamb, but rather measure from the iside of the existing aluminum track. He also mentioned that these do not need to be exact since you'll be deducting 1/4-1/2" anyway for an out-of-square buffer. Does this all sound right? I just got done hanging a bunch of doors so the idea of not doing ultra precises measurements for an opening is freaking me out.
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Aug 20, 2014 19:53
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I stained a winerack with a linseed oil based product. After a week outside in dry, fairly warm weather and 5 days inside, it's still giving off quite a lot of that linseed smell. Any idea how long it'll keep off-gassing?
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Aug 20, 2014 20:28
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Dane posted:I stained a winerack with a linseed oil based product. After a week outside in dry, fairly warm weather and 5 days inside, it's still giving off quite a lot of that linseed smell. Any idea how long it'll keep off-gassing? There is plain linseed oil that takes forever and boiled linseed oil takes a week or two to dry but either one may smell for awhile. You can try sealing it with Johnsons paste wax, or other wax, or blonde shellac.
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Aug 20, 2014 21:01
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wormil posted:There is plain linseed oil that takes forever and boiled linseed oil takes a week or two to dry but either one may smell for awhile. You can try sealing it with Johnsons paste wax, or other wax, or blonde shellac. It was just a quick two coats of the cheapest IKEA wood stain (girlfriend hated the look of the plain untreated winerack). Contents are listed as "Linseed Oil, Wood Oil. Pigment." Whatever 'wood oil' is.
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Aug 21, 2014 00:39
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I installed a new prehung front door in my house but because nothing is standard in this McMansion it's 1/2 inch too deep (height and width are fine). I set the jamb flush with the outside stucco because dealing with that outside trim would be a pain. I was planning on just building the inside jamb out with some wood a few inches so I could attach molding flush to it and have it not be too noticeable. Any other ideas or is that my best option at this point.? FCKGW fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Aug 21, 2014 |
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Aug 21, 2014 04:20
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What are my options for painting my deck? It's getting pretty beat up where we step down from the slider. I know with painting, prep is everything. If I paint over this, is it gonna just peel in a year or so? Should I tsp first or anything? How much better will it hold up if I strip it to the wood first? I really don't want to, but would consider it if the lifetime was like 7 years vs 1 for a paint over. 
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Aug 21, 2014 05:41
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Dane posted:It was just a quick two coats of the cheapest IKEA wood stain (girlfriend hated the look of the plain untreated winerack). Contents are listed as "Linseed Oil, Wood Oil. Pigment." Whatever 'wood oil' is.  Apparently Ikea doesn't do an MSDS for their products.
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Aug 21, 2014 06:56
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uwaeve posted:What are my options for painting my deck? It's getting pretty beat up where we step down from the slider. If you paint over that it'll look like poo poo in a day, unfortunately you need to do some prep, how much is up to you. Sanding back to bare wood and repainting will get you a few years, nothing lasts forever out there.
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Aug 21, 2014 07:24
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kid sinister posted:I used to work for a fastener company. That looks similar to a truss head screw, but that's definitely something custom made. Are the threads metric or US? No clue (and I know that it is important). Thanks for the info (you and eddiewalker).
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Aug 21, 2014 11:47
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Cakefool posted:If you paint over that it'll look like poo poo in a day, unfortunately you need to do some prep, how much is up to you. Sanding back to bare wood and repainting will get you a few years, nothing lasts forever out there. This actually looks exactly like my deck did. I sanded it down far enough to remove all the loose stuff, then went over it with Behr Deck paint (http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-gal-6050-Ultra-Pure-White-Low-Lustre-Porch-and-Patio-Floor-Paint-605001/100162380). It's held up well except for the spot where the gutters drained onto for who-know-how-long because they were clogged.
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Aug 21, 2014 14:32
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FCKGW posted:I was planning on just building the inside jamb out with some wood a few inches so I could attach molding flush to it and have it not be too noticeable. Any other ideas or is that my best option at this point.? It's called "boxing" and that's exactly what you do with doors and windows to bring the jambs out far enough to attach trim at the level of the drywall. Measure the maximum depth you need (guarantee you the door is in crooked or the wall is crooked) from the prefinished door to the drywall and make a box of that depth. Install it, and then attach your casings/trim to the box. Caulk around the trim as well as the joint between the box and prehung door frame and you'll never notice it's out 1/4" more on one corner or whatever it ends up being.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:01
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uwaeve posted:What are my options for painting my deck? It's getting pretty beat up where we step down from the slider. Rustoleum makes a product called Restore which is like a thick one part epoxy type covering for decks and anything else that's been badly weathered. I've seen a few examples, some that that came out really good, and some that look like bad playground equipment afterward. Either way though, that poo poo is bulletproof (it seems). There are a few other manufactures making a similar product now also.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:32
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So my front door is a pretty big set of 8' stain grade french doors. It's pretty awesome looking, it has a ton of fine detail and cool glass inlay. I noticed a few weeks ago that the clear coat or whatever finish is on it is starting to peel/flake in some areas, and it's turning a little chalky in other areas. My house is west facing so the door just get's blasted by the sun for the first part of the day. My question... is it time to get out the saw horses and sandpaper, or can I get away with some wax or oil for a while? If so, any recommendations on a product? I know the doors are going to need refinishing at some point, but I have too many projects going on as it is. If I can squeeze another year out of these things it would be super.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:44
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Thanks for the deck painting tips. Are there sanders I can rent with dust collection or do I just have to do this with my little palm sander and wind up with a backyard full of powdered latex?
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Aug 21, 2014 22:40
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uwaeve posted:Thanks for the deck painting tips. Are there sanders I can rent with dust collection or do I just have to do this with my little palm sander and wind up with a backyard full of powdered latex? I sanded my entire deck with a shopvac hose duct taped to the dustbag port on a belt sander. Pressure washing the loose paint off may also be a faster option.
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Aug 21, 2014 23:00
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Sointenly posted:So my front door is a pretty big set of 8' stain grade french doors. It's pretty awesome looking, it has a ton of fine detail and cool glass inlay. I noticed a few weeks ago that the clear coat or whatever finish is on it is starting to peel/flake in some areas, and it's turning a little chalky in other areas. My house is west facing so the door just get's blasted by the sun for the first part of the day. I built a round picnic table out of deck cedar about ten years ago. I wind up belt-sanding it every three years or so & starting over. I have tried urethane and Helmsman spar varnish. No matter what: after about three years in the sun, the UV kills it. If your doors are just starting to flake, you can try touching it up with judicious sanding of the flaking areas and laying on some urethane, knowing that it will show and is a temporary solution. What you want to try to avoid is getting significant water penetration into the bare wood, which will not sand out easily, the deeper it goes. Ultimately, you'll have to bite the bullet and sand it down. The bitch of it is, the urethane will stick like god's own glue everywhere that it's not flaking, and give you & your sander a real workout. eddiewalker posted:I sanded my entire deck with a shopvac hose duct taped to the dustbag port on a belt sander. And do this, when you do.
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Aug 22, 2014 00:26
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Motronic posted:It's called "boxing" and that's exactly what you do with doors and windows to bring the jambs out far enough to attach trim at the level of the drywall. My jambs don't need to be brought out though, they're 1/2" past the drywall already.
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Aug 22, 2014 03:07
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While it was raining hard here last night, I decided to go into the attic to check the roof for leaks. I found two, both of them around the vent pipes. I haven't been able to get up there to check the rubber boot/flashing on the roof so I don't know how they look. Is there a quick fix I could do for the time being? It is supposed to keep raining on and off for the next couple of days and I don't want all that water in my attic. The good thing is the bathroom roof vent that I put up is good. Thanks to all that replied to help me with that.
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Aug 22, 2014 12:41
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Gatla posted:While it was raining hard here last night, I decided to go into the attic to check the roof for leaks. I found two, both of them around the vent pipes. I haven't been able to get up there to check the rubber boot/flashing on the roof so I don't know how they look. Is there a quick fix I could do for the time being? It is supposed to keep raining on and off for the next couple of days and I don't want all that water in my attic. Home Depot carries a "wet patch" roofing sealant that can be applied in wet conditions. I'm mobile, so I can't link it, but it's by Henry and you'll find it with the roofing stuff in store. I used it when installing a patch on my roof after a storm ripped some of the rolled roofing off my garage.
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Aug 22, 2014 13:07
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First time I had that problem I climbed up there and put some of that tar stuff on. Second time (same vent pipe) I said gently caress it, wrapped a towel around the vent to catch the drips, and called a roof guy to come replace the boot.
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Aug 22, 2014 13:15
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Dragyn posted:Home Depot carries a "wet patch" roofing sealant that can be applied in wet conditions. I'm mobile, so I can't link it, but it's by Henry and you'll find it with the roofing stuff in store. I used it when installing a patch on my roof after a storm ripped some of the rolled roofing off my garage. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-0-90-Gal-208R-Rubber-Wet-Patch-Roof-Cement-HE208R142/100041225 I've used it to repair small leaks around vents while it was still drizzling. Works great, though it is the least trowlable "fluid" ever-- I ended up sacrificing a pair of old work gloves and had the most success smearing it on by hand.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:06
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Has anyone ever tried that "as seen on tv" spray on latex/rubber stuff? Of course it looks neat in the ads, but I'm wondering if it works remotely as advertised.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:16
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