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Maybe I suck at google but I've been searching high and low to see if there's a way to allow me to have different controller layouts for different emulation systems in Emulationstation. I use a wired 360 controller and even learned how to manually edit retroarch.cfg to allow me to set combo button presses to control save states and resetting with just the controller, so I'm familiar enough with how to get in and gently caress around with that config file. Basically: I want to set up the controller so playing NES games doesn't suck rear end, by allowing the X and A buttons on my 360 pad to function as "B" (the left button) and "A" (the right button) on an NES pad. It's set up currently that the 4 face buttons match the 4 face buttons on an SNES pad, but "B" and "A" on an NES controller are set as A and B on the 360 pad (the bottom button and the right button). This blows huge chunks of rear end and it would be much easier to play if I could set it up the way I want to. The issue is, I can't find a way to make NES games use one layout and SNES games use another. Anyone know what I'm taking about?
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Aug 16, 2014 22:42
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PirateNipple posted:Maybe I suck at google but I've been searching high and low to see if there's a way to allow me to have different controller layouts for different emulation systems in Emulationstation. Wouldn't you have to set the mapping in each emulator that will have the custom mapping rather than the global mapping in retroarch?
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Aug 16, 2014 23:00
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duffmensch posted:Wouldn't you have to set the mapping in each emulator that will have the custom mapping rather than the global mapping in retroarch? This was it, yep. I didn't realize each emulator had it's own config file that overwrote any settings in the global one. Took a bit to figure it out but I got it, thanks 
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Aug 16, 2014 23:27
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Hopefully there are some GPIO experts here. I'm attempting to connect a PiCoolFan to my Pi via breadboard. I'm using a B rev2. The board connects to the 3.3V, both 5V and the ground pin and to i2c pins 3 and 5. When the board is on the pi, it can be accessed and controlled fine, but when I jumper it to the breadboard, it powers on fine, but i2cdetect doesn't find it. I don't know what might be doing this, I've tried everything I can figure out. The breakout board is an ebay Chinese one, so I am considering buying an Adafruit T-Cobbler to see if the board is just crap, but when I connect the board to the breakout cable directly, the same thing happens. Anyone have any ideas? http://s56.photobucket.com/user/lone77wulf/media/IMG_1744.jpg.html lone77wulf fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 05:38
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Are you connecting the SDA and SCL lines correctly? Are you sure you're making a good physical connection with the jumpers? edit: Also check you have the cable oriented the right way on the Pi. Your power rails on the breadboard should read the appropriate power when measured with a voltmeter.
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Aug 17, 2014 05:41
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Yeah, the board reverses the SDA and the SCL, so I made sure of that. Wires may be an issue. They "catch" in the holes, but they lean like that, so there may be a connection loose. On the fan board itself, they fit tightly, and I bundled them all together using a bit of Sugru, so they don't move. I'll try some different wire and see how that does.
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Aug 17, 2014 05:46
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Does anyone know of a US-based source for those ribbon cables used by the camera module? I can only find them from the UK, and that adds like $4 shipping for a $1 part. I just need one, like, 15-20cm instead of the standard 10cm.
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Aug 18, 2014 04:08
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Adafruit sells a few longer ones like a 24" https://www.adafruit.com/products/1731 or 18" one https://www.adafruit.com/products/1730 They have smaller ones too if you have some special need, but the big ones should work well.
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Aug 18, 2014 04:12
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Oh, perfect. Not sure why that didn't come up in my searches. Thanks! 
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Aug 18, 2014 13:28
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mod sassinator posted:Are you connecting the SDA and SCL lines correctly? Are you sure you're making a good physical connection with the jumpers? So it turns out it was a bad ribbon cable. 3.3v, 5v and SDA were fine, no connection on SCL. New ribbon and it works fine. Joys of crappy accessories messing up a project. And Bad Munki, if Adafruit doesn't have something you're looking for, ModMyPi seems to have the best shipping prices from the UK.
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Aug 18, 2014 23:17
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When the piface digital and gertboard are referred to as having buffered inputs is that saying it has some form of protection to reduce the risk of frying your Pi compared to using the GPIO directly ?
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Aug 19, 2014 14:43
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quote:WRTnode is a high performance CPU, low power consuming, cheap, and samll dev board that can run OpenWRT OS and also easy to port all open source software of Linux. e: Actually it's only 512 Megabits of memory, so 64 MB. Also, doesn't seem to have audio/video output. Still though it should be pretty nice for a lot of the "DIY NAS" or "DIY I2C/SPI to network" adapter type roles the Rasperry Pi gets pressed into. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 18:37
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No USB port or ethernet ports so I don't think it would work well as a NAS. Interesting little board though for projects, especially internet enabled stuff. edit: Oh, it plugs into some shield thing for USB ports.
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Aug 19, 2014 19:12
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So I have an entire box of these 1440x900 17.1" LCD panels: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-LP171WP9-TL-G121R-Replacement/dp/B00AO80AA8 along with a handful of the breakout cables that plug into the panel on the back of it, like so:  Is there any chance in hell of me successfully getting this to work with my raspi? Because that would be amazingly freakin' awesome. They're just sitting there collecting dust, nobody has any plans for them, and having nice big installable panels like that, for free, would be a game-changer for a number of projects.
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Aug 21, 2014 02:28
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Something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-TV...=item2c86449e76 might do the job for you. You'd just be able to use the raspi's onboard HDMI with it, if that board works properly with the panel.
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Aug 21, 2014 02:33
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Hmm, that specifically mentions the TLB1, this is just a TLB3, I wonder if I can find any specific differences. Even $50 for a board like that would be pretty good, as that'd be the entirety of the cost.
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Aug 21, 2014 02:41
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I got yesterday my B+. By the way, Farnell has those in stock, and I got mine less than 24 hours after posting the order (that was fast!). I approve a lot the change to uSD. I have a raspi with a broken SD holder, and a second one which is going to break one of these days (I have put a uSD using a SD adapter just to not have to remove/swap SDs, but it _will_ broke for sure anyways. That crap SD holder was my first (and only) complaint about the Raspberry Pi hardware. This new model also stopped to reset itself as soon as I hotplugged something into the USB ports. I have not yet tried to put some load onto it (it should feed an external HD without the need to use a powered hub). It seems good to this point.
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Aug 21, 2014 11:45
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Bad Munki posted:So I have an entire box of these 1440x900 17.1" LCD panels: http://www.amazon.com/Dell-LP171WP9-TL-G121R-Replacement/dp/B00AO80AA8 along with a handful of the breakout cables that plug into the panel on the back of it, like so: This youtube video might be helpful in getting LCD panels to have the proper inputs you need for a Raspberry Pi. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SOXMDb4cjI
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Aug 21, 2014 22:30
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I've never tried playing with salvaged panels before, but it sounds like it's all pretty easy...if you can find a driver board for your monitor. Which should be simple, they almost all seem to be 40-pin lvds, for which driver boards are a cinch to acquire. The problem in my case? It's a 50-pin connection of some sort. The pins are broken into groups of 30 and 20. The previously linked ebay item proved to be super helpful, I was emailing back and forth with the guy, and while neither of us could find a datasheet for my monitor, he did find one that was supposed to be compatible, and I checked the pinout for that display, which looked (at least based on the wire colors and board connections) to be the same. So hope is not lost, but at least for the display(s) I'm trying now, it may be a bit of a hassle. For the sake of the project I want a display for NOW, I might just go check some of the other salvaged displays we have to see if they're work with more readily-available driver boards, but I'd still really like to get these ones working as well. Anyhow, ebay guy said his buddy in china was trying to get the driver board to work with a compatible 50-pin panel. Sounds like so far, he could get the matrix to fire up and work, but hadn't gotten the backlight to kick in.
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Aug 22, 2014 01:22
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Connected a wireless PIR drive way sensor to my Pi - Chopped off the top of an LED on the base unit and attached some jumpers. Fed these into a optocoupler and had the output from that go into a GPIO port. No worries about frying the pi as theres no electrical connection between the sensor base unit and the GPIO port.  Works well and is far simpler than the other ideas I was playing with where there was an electrical connection between the base unit and the Pi.
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Aug 29, 2014 13:33
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Baconroll posted:
Doesn't that optical coupling add a significant delay? I mean, the LED does not light up instantly.
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Aug 30, 2014 10:17
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100 nano-seconds for this one - I can live with that delay
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Aug 30, 2014 15:11
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Baconroll posted:100 nano-seconds for this one - I can live with that delay You're a very patient person.
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Aug 30, 2014 15:26
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If anyone wants a B+ it is on sale at Newegg USA for $39 until the 16th: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5YB1Z20067 Edit: in a case
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Sep 15, 2014 18:17
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Heners_UK posted:If anyone wants a B+ it is on sale at Newegg USA for $39 until the 16th: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA5YB1Z20067 That case doesn't look like it has much ventilation. Does that matter much?
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Sep 16, 2014 01:00
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keyvin posted:That case doesn't look like it has much ventilation. Does that matter much? Don't think it's a huge problem but it's nothing a bit of drilling can't fix.
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Sep 16, 2014 01:53
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keyvin posted:That case doesn't look like it has much ventilation. Does that matter much?
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Sep 16, 2014 01:55
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keyvin posted:That case doesn't look like it has much ventilation. Does that matter much? I have one of those cases, I haven't had any heat issues. They do have a few slots cut into the top. Curiously they also have one hole for a camera module lens and two mounting screws for bolting said module *inside* the case with the lens facing out. I guess if you mounted it on a wall you could have a fixed camera facing out.
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Sep 17, 2014 04:42
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keyvin posted:That case doesn't look like it has much ventilation. Does that matter much? I've got the same experience as other goons have reported. My B+ is running three simh instances and a klh-10 simulation, so the CPU is always about 75-80% busy, and I have got no overheating problems at all (on the other hand, it is a headless setup so the GPU is idle).
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Sep 17, 2014 20:06
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Eukodol posted:I have one of those cases, I haven't had any heat issues. They do have a few slots cut into the top. Curiously they also have one hole for a camera module lens and two mounting screws for bolting said module *inside* the case with the lens facing out. I guess if you mounted it on a wall you could have a fixed camera facing out. I also got this case with my first B+ a couple weeks ago. It's a decent case, but you have to be careful mounting the Pi, or you'll break the mounting tabs. I like the camera mounting point. I have one mounted on the wall in my garage that acts as an internet garage door remote/security camera.
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Sep 17, 2014 21:42
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I have a Raspberry Pi that's running videos with omxplayer. What I need is to play a short video with an alpha layer over top of these other videos. I was hoping to just open another instance of omxplayer and set the --layer to something high, but omxplayer doesn't seem to support video with alpha. Any ideas on how to do this? I'm really new to linux, so I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the possible avenues to research that might solve this 
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Oct 1, 2014 21:09
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Not sure where else to post this, but I thought this was kind of interesting. On the far left (click to embiggen) looks like an Intel Edison or similar "microcontroller"
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Oct 2, 2014 08:05
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It's an Arduino Yun without the sticker on its shield, see: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardYun?from=Products.ArduinoYUN The board was designed by doghunter: http://www.doghunter.org/?portfolio=arduino-yun  It actually has a MIPS processor that runs Linux, so good luck getting Windows 10 to run on it. I think it was just a marketing screw up searching for 'embedded computer' or something similar and grabbing the first thing they saw.
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Oct 2, 2014 08:30
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Yeah that is most likely. However, I wonder if they've expanded .Net Micro Framework somehow, similar to what the Netduino guys are doing.
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Oct 2, 2014 08:46
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Err I tried updating my Pi running Raspbian so that the Bash exploit would get fixed. It's giving me some guff about "E: Some index files failed to download. They have been ignored, or old ones used instead." When I apt-get update. When I apt-get upgrade it does nothing, no packages update. Should I just edit my sources.list to use the Debian repositories? It appears that the Raspbian ones are out of date.
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Oct 4, 2014 23:39
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YouTuber posted:Err I tried updating my Pi running Raspbian so that the Bash exploit would get fixed. It's giving me some guff about "E: Some index files failed to download. They have been ignored, or old ones used instead." When I apt-get update. When I apt-get upgrade it does nothing, no packages update. Out of curiosity, what are you exposing to the internet on your Pi?
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Oct 4, 2014 23:45
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What's the cheapest and or simplest way of controlling a 240v relay by gpio? I want to control just one relay to turn my immersion heater off and on by Pi
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Oct 5, 2014 00:25
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Jamsta posted:What's the cheapest and or simplest way of controlling a 240v relay by gpio? What is the rated coil voltage of your relay?
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Oct 5, 2014 00:29
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concise posted:What is the rated coil voltage of your relay? I've not bought anything yet. Thinking I need to boost convert a 3.3v gpio pin to 12v, and use that on a 12v coil, 240v relay? Or is there another cheap prefab board that will allow me to switch mains current via gpio easily. I've seen more expensive breakout boards but they are overkill. I only need to turn on mains heater on off.
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Oct 5, 2014 00:52
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Jamsta posted:What's the cheapest and or simplest way of controlling a 240v relay by gpio? You should be able to find a solid state relay that will take a 3.3V input and switch 240VAC for around $30 new, or less for used/eBay vendors.
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Oct 5, 2014 01:16
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