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leica posted:You're not missing much, trust me. If and when you do get approved just search and don't ever post or you'll open the portal to douche nozzle planet and we'll all be screwed. Lol...there definitely are some mega douches on CVN but I've had some good people help me with questions regarding parts and other things on my car. The big trigger on there seems to be whacker-related stuff. Someone posts pics of a Vic with antennas or asks how to install a pushbar or radio consoles or lights and the anti whacker contingent goes crazy. *edit* oh hello new page, have a silver marauder 
djhaloeight fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jul 25, 2014 |
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Jul 25, 2014 00:26
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The problem I have with the anti-whacker crowd is, even if you're using strobes for a legit loving purpose they still flip poo poo.  Like, this right here? This would cause them to cry "WHACKER!" so hard, despite the fact that I run fire / first responder calls and actually use the drat things for a reason. poo poo's ridiculous, they'd lose their minds if they knew I also have taillight strobes and wig-wags that I still need to install.
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Jul 25, 2014 01:24
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Wait, so what do you do?
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Jul 25, 2014 03:44
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Firefighter / search and rescue, when i'm not at my fulltime job. Technically, i'm maintenance for a private community as my main job, then if i'm not at work i'm on call 24/7 for the fire department in case we get a fire / water rescue / search & rescue / MVA / what-have-you.
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Jul 25, 2014 03:53
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Whackers are scum of the earth. I've seen a few running around MA. Usually running a antenna farm and a GO RINO bar. See lots of ex French and Electric blue ex-MSP cruisers too. I saw one just sitting in a driveway looking like he was on a BOLO. Also CVN is full of spergs.
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Jul 25, 2014 04:02
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T1g4h posted:The problem I have with the anti-whacker crowd is, even if you're using strobes for a legit loving purpose they still flip poo poo.
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Jul 25, 2014 04:15
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Friar Zucchini posted:One might make the argument that the very idea of a CV with a blinky light makes you a whacker. For me at least, one look at the wheels, and a closer look at the bumper where the bullbar used to be, and the missing trim on the door, tells me you're not trying very hard to look like a cop, but the dash light would make me wonder. It might be a good idea to get a maltese-cross bumper sticker or a FF license plate just to drive the point home. I've already got plenty of stickers on the back, including my "(town name) Fire and Rescue" decal on the trunk, so no worries there. I might apply for an actual Firefighter plate when it comes time to renew my registration for next year, we'll see when that gets closer though. I do want to put a bullbar back on, but that's more because A. I think bullbars look awesome on Vics, and B. gently caress deer 
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Jul 25, 2014 04:18
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Where does the term whacker come from anyway? That's some funny poo poo.
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Jul 25, 2014 04:19
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leica posted:Where does the term whacker come from anyway? That's some funny poo poo. All the big antennas on the roof/trunk whacking into garage roofs/drive throughs etc.
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Jul 25, 2014 05:05
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Love it
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Jul 25, 2014 05:08
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Pham Nuwen posted:Well I was hoping to ask them if my specific year is supposed to have the Throttle Valve Grommet of Doom, which instantly destroys your AOD transmission upon failure... I can't seem to find the drat thing, all the cables and pushrods down there seem to be attached very solidly to the lever without a grommet. Mine has it. I think when I was replacing the valve cover gasket, and lost the grommet & used bailing wire for the 2 days it took the part to come in may have given the transmission issues. It doesn't seem to want to go into OD all the time, some sometimes feels like the trans doesn't engage but only after reaching about 45 mph.  For the record, it's the late 80's early 90's boxy vics that have the grommet.
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Jul 25, 2014 16:50
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alternate.eago posted:Mine has it. I think when I was replacing the valve cover gasket, and lost the grommet & used bailing wire for the 2 days it took the part to come in may have given the transmission issues. It doesn't seem to want to go into OD all the time, some sometimes feels like the trans doesn't engage but only after reaching about 45 mph. Do you know how late "late 80s" is? Mine's an 86 and I just can't find any grommet. I'll try to snap a picture later.
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Jul 25, 2014 16:54
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Mine is an 89 Crown Vic LTD.
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Jul 25, 2014 20:51
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Holdbrooks posted:Ok guys, why is my cvpi getting hot and the ac not as cold these days. It get pretty hot when we autocrossed it but I was t too concerned since we were hot lapping it for over an hour in first gear I figured the trans was getting pretty hot and that was the issue with not getting a lot of air with the lower speeds. I had my fan controller go out with about 100k miles and 4000 idle hours. It is a very easy part to replace though. It sounds like a similar symptom, overheats when idle or in very low speeds, AC is warm unless going 30+ mph.
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Jul 25, 2014 21:25
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Took it to the shop, they said it's in pretty good condition for an 86. Brake system is fine, suspension is safe but some of the rubber is starting to go. They recommended idler arm and link kit bushings when I can. Some slight oil ooze around the valve covers but not enough to be worrying; I've noticed an occasional oil whiff so that's probably it. They also suggested that the clashing/clinking noise I'm hearing could be the hubcaps. I guess I'll pull them off and see what it sounds like. Happy to hear that the thing should be safe to drive, at least.
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Jul 28, 2014 22:02
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I'm trying to get the drat hubcaps off... I have one of these in the glovebox: and these are my hubcaps:  When I pry off the center thing (the red part), according to everything I see online there should be a kind of bolt or something to unscrew, but there's just a hole right in the center, with a little right around it like maybe something has screwed/unscrewed on top of it before. Any ideas?
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Jul 29, 2014 02:08
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A modest tug, if there's no screw/bolt head visible.
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Jul 29, 2014 05:55
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Splizwarf posted:A modest tug, if there's no screw/bolt head visible. I'll try again... I was giving it a pretty firm pull earlier, wrapping my fingers around those "spokes", but at the time I wasn't sure if there was anything holding it on. I'll give it a shot in the morning, maybe take some screwdrivers too in case it needs prying.
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Jul 29, 2014 06:07
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I suppose they are thin and probably brittle plastic, so I am changing my suggestion to "prybar at the side".
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Jul 29, 2014 18:41
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Splizwarf posted:I suppose they are thin and probably brittle plastic, so I am changing my suggestion to "prybar at the side". I used a big flathead screwdriver and pried around the sides, eventually they popped off. They have these loving teeth that bite into the inside of the steel wheel and hold it in there pretty firmly. Heavy fuckers too, they are not your usual flimsy little wheel cover; I probably removed 40 lbs overall with all 4 off. Frankly I think they look better with the black steel wheel + the white-striped tire. However, it didn't stop the rattling/clashing/squeaking noise. Noise only seems to occur around 25-35 mph, I can't hear it otherwise. I also can't make it happen while stopped. I need to try recording it somehow.
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Jul 29, 2014 19:05
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T1g4h posted:Firefighter / search and rescue, when i'm not at my fulltime job. So are you a firefighter on the departments payroll or a volunteer firefighter? Authorized as a legal signaled vehicle? I don't know what the laws are in your area, but for the few depts that allow personal vehicles to have signals, they must be visible 360 degrees and 500ft range siren. Most chiefs say no anyway because they don't want their phone ringing at all hours of the night because somebody with a kojak light ran Jane Smith into the ditch or blew a red light and nearly hit somebody. I don't mean to label you as a whacker if you're not. But we're all well aware that there are a lot of volunteer firefighters that try to live out their jack bauer fantasies raging unsafely down the road like a badass mother fuckin' firefighter. To Pham Nuwen: Actually to what Huggable Bear King said, I got rid of a lot of noise with adjusting the hood stops. Move them out a bit to firm up the contact. I was worried there was a lot more wrong. Easy fix.
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Jul 29, 2014 23:54
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SomethingOrAnother posted:So are you a firefighter on the departments payroll or a volunteer firefighter? Authorized as a legal signaled vehicle? I don't know what the laws are in your area, but for the few depts that allow personal vehicles to have signals, they must be visible 360 degrees and 500ft range siren. Most chiefs say no anyway because they don't want their phone ringing at all hours of the night because somebody with a kojak light ran Jane Smith into the ditch or blew a red light and nearly hit somebody. Volunteer, and the chief is the one that sold me those lights. He trusts his department to use them responsibly because he knows we're not crazed jackasses. I mean, we are, but not in that area
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Jul 29, 2014 23:59
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SomethingOrAnother posted:To Pham Nuwen: I'll take a look... I know rattling hoods are problems with the aero Crown Vics, didn't know they would also be a problem for the box generation. Edit: Well I adjusted the stops a little bit, it's much firmer now, but the sound persists. I did discover the surest way to stop the noises: try to record them. Eventually I got back to a stretch of road which did it anyway, but my cellphone's noise reduction screwed me over. Looks better without hubcaps: 
Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jul 30, 2014 |
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Jul 30, 2014 00:54
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So about them dead coils... Anyone have a set they want to get rid of? I want to mock them up to see how they fit. I think they'd work great on my Volvo, I just want to make sure before I buy a set. Working or not. Would love 6 but I'd even take 1.
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Jul 30, 2014 04:56
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Pham Nuwen posted:I'll take a look... I know rattling hoods are problems with the aero Crown Vics, didn't know they would also be a problem for the box generation. You are almost driving my first car. 
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Jul 30, 2014 05:34
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I was looking thru copart on a lark and came across this '03 Crown Vic, it has serious front end damage but is listed as running and driving. Do you think it's worth a shot bidding on for <1500? Would it cost more than a grand for junkyard body panels and an airbag? Is this a terrible idea for someone who has changed oil and flat tires and bulbs and that's about it? Also, whoever is at this lot who takes photos of these wrecks definitely has a sense of humor, because the final photo of the set is the shorn-off bumper cover, with a very fitting vanity plate: 
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Aug 17, 2014 01:26
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I've seen running driving non wrecked p71s for that, and paid less than that for the one in the OP. Look around.
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Aug 17, 2014 01:34
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Most places require a salvage inspection before you can register it again, some places require a rebuilders license. At 150,000 miles, to pass a salvage inspection, you'd probably have to replace most of the front suspension, simply beause of wear. Then, at the end of the day, a clean title car with no damage is only worth $2500 at the most http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/614083484/overview/
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Aug 17, 2014 01:42
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poo poo, I paid $1800 for my '01 when I bought it with ~140k miles. It ran and drove, just had minor cosmetic damage in the front: I'm with 13", shop around and see if you can find something that's actually roadworthy. You can get P71s for fairly cheap, and even those LXs aren't super pricy.
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Aug 17, 2014 02:07
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:I've seen running driving non wrecked p71s for that, and paid less than that for the one in the OP. Look around. To be fair, the first reply was: piss boner posted:Please tell us it was free.
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Aug 17, 2014 02:13
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T1g4h posted:I'm with 13", shop around and see if you can find something that's actually roadworthy. You can get P71s for fairly cheap, and even those LXs aren't super pricy. Thanks guys, I'll keep looking.
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Aug 17, 2014 02:25
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lampey posted:I had my fan controller go out with about 100k miles and 4000 idle hours. It is a very easy part to replace though. It sounds like a similar symptom, overheats when idle or in very low speeds, AC is warm unless going 30+ mph. Update: I replace the fan and controler and it worked awesome for a day... I am having amazon replace the new fan again an am hoping that it was a QC fluke. Is there any reason I would be killing these? In other new I might be replacing the ac system soon. The compressor is sounding pretty bad since this whole thing and the low side pressure is getting pretty high when the compressor cycles off. Ugg I just wanted to fix it and sell it since I ordered the truck. The new fan symptom is that it runs on low but will kick up to high for about a second the off again and repeat every 20-22 seconds. Confirmed with a scanner that the dash is reading 3/4 high temp and ecu is saying 240deg coolant temp while it's is doing it. Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 03:33
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Cooling fan on my Marauder is chopping/chattering this morning, probably bearings. I've heard some negative comments about aftermarket fan assemblies not turning off/burning up/etc. Other Panthers experience this?
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Aug 23, 2014 17:16
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OFFICER 13 INCH posted:I've seen running driving non wrecked p71s for that, and paid less than that for the one in the OP. Look around. Yeah, you can get an abused but still good for another 100k miles ex-city-PD '03 for $2500. Maybe less if you don't mind the dome light coming on when you honk the horn. I payed considerably more for mine several years ago, but it was a Highway Patrol car in really good shape (the wiring isn't butchered) and with relatively low miles/hours.
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Aug 24, 2014 04:03
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Yeah, you can get an abused but still good for another 100k miles ex-city-PD '03 for $2500. Maybe less if you don't mind the dome light coming on when you honk the horn. I payed considerably more for mine several years ago, but it was a Highway Patrol car in really good shape (the wiring isn't butchered) and with relatively low miles/hours. Is this some weird electrical voodoo common to these cars? I only ask because I had an awesome 90's Taurus in which operating the window switches would occasionally make the light in the door panel to activate instead of the windows. It was especially good at doing this when trying to raise the window...oddly enough, right before a rainstorm.
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Aug 25, 2014 04:13
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That kind of shenanigans is almost always because the ground wiring in the harness branches out like a tree from a variety of common ground points on the chassis. If one ground gets really corroded/loose/dodgy, any little random perturbation will break the connection and suddenly, if there's a switched load that gets grounded when turned off on the same now-missing ground, it becomes the (bad) ground and current flows through both loads in series. Very very common issue, the symptoms are just different depending on which make/model/year and what devices share each ground. For instance bad grounds in either the rear left quarter panel or front left quarter panel by the ECU on a jeep cherokee will usually cause extremely strange blinker, brake light, and dash blinker/highbeam telltale bulb behavior.
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Aug 25, 2014 04:20
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That is a pretty amazing bit of knowledge, and I'm sure, someone's worst nightmare when it comes to try diagnosis such wizardry.
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Aug 25, 2014 07:31
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SouthLAnd posted:Is this some weird electrical voodoo common to these cars? I only ask because I had an awesome 90's Taurus in which operating the window switches would occasionally make the light in the door panel to activate instead of the windows. Your thing was just some wires in the door with their insulation worn off shorting to each other, or that thing kastein said. The dome light when you honk the horn in a retired cop car is because the inept city mechanics cross the wires when they strip out the cop stuff -- specifically, usually the horn button activates the lightbar and/or siren, and cop cars usually have the circuit that turns the dome light on when you open the doors disabled. Though '03+ (and maybe the previous gen, I forget) P71s have a plug under the glovebox to enable/disable the door-opening lights (and in '07 or so they made it a thing that can be disabled in the computer with a certain button-pushing sequence, both only for the front doors so you can see to stuff the perp in the back), some agencies' mechanics don't know about it or are just lazy and just cut the wires, which leads to problems when they're putting it back to civvie spec. Also, fun fact: every Panther (with the last body style, anyway, and I'm fairly sure including the granny versions and Mercuries) has a +12V wire behind the A-pillar trim on both sides, because it was cheaper to use the same wiring harness on all of them than to run a wire only in the cars with factory spotlight cuts. Handy if you want to permanently mount your GPS in that corner, or a light-up gauge pod on a Marauder, or whatever. Similarly, swapping Marauder headlight/blinker units (I forget the details, but the Marauder headlights are different and cooler) onto a Ford from the same year doesn't require wiring fuckery; the Fords are fully wired for the Marauder lights, they just don't use one of the contacts in the plug.
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Aug 25, 2014 09:06
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Delivery McGee posted:usually the horn button activates the lightbar and/or siren You break the horn wire and run it through the siren. When the siren is off/in normal mode it simply passes the current through and the horn honks. When you turn the siren on it can, depending on model, be used as an electronic air horn, a "whoop whoop", or to rotate through the siren tones. Some do some other stuff too. I've never seen them hooked up to a light bar. But yes, the problem then becomes the horn doesn't work when you remove the siren control box. And while having it turn on the dome light is hilarious, it's not really much of a surprise since the aftermarket dome lights you'll typically find are part of that bundle of wires left over once the console/radios/switch boxes are pulled. In fact, other than large power/grounds, coax antenna leads, and possibly some odd looking stuff that would likely be taken (trunk mount radio separation cables, laptop power supplies) there shouldn't be much at all left in there (assuming the lights were also pulled). I wouldn't necessarily blame it on an inept city mechanic, as there would be no reason to hook together three wires instead of two. In fact, I'd say it was a hilarious city mechanic. And frankly sounds like something I would (will in the future) do.
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Aug 25, 2014 16:18
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Would be an effective way to figure out who the hell is actually honking in dense night traffic. 
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Aug 25, 2014 21:49
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