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 As usual PI doesn't have any idea what it's talking about. It's perfectly fine to go ahead and let the puppy potty inside if you're a raging jackass retard who desperately loves to suck dog poo poo up through your nose, and you clearly are. It's okay man  . Goons just don't appreciate the finer things in life. 
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Aug 25, 2014 13:48
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:
Where is this coming from? Did a post get deleted? They took the advice from people in their second post to train them outside on the balcony. Is there a substantive difference between getting the dog to go on the balcony vs a random strip of grass outside the apartment, as long as the dog is getting walks and exercise outside? Not just talking about you, fluffy bunnies.
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Aug 25, 2014 14:25
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Rurutia posted:Where is this coming from? Did a post get deleted? They took the advice from people in their second post to train them outside on the balcony. Is there a substantive difference between getting the dog to go on the balcony vs a random strip of grass outside the apartment, as long as the dog is getting walks and exercise outside? I think it's more related to the kind of ridiculous effort of training a corgi to use a litter box in lieu of walks. It kind of engenders the feeling of getting the wrong advice from the wrong people, in my opinion. If one of my friends came up to me and said "I litter trained my puppy!" I would literally smack them in the face and ask them where they got such lovely information from. I mean hell, you shouldn't even have to use puppy pads. The idea is to train the dog to go outside from Day 1 (as is realistic) and then accidents inside are the exception, not the rule. In my experience, and I think that plenty of people will agree, and as I recently saw and would like to quote: " ...if parvo is rampant like a poo poo river up to your eyeballs, don't do it..." otherwise, don't let your dog roll around it other dogs' poo poo and you're good to go. Socialization and proper training is important, and at this stage is the best opportunity you will ever have to get started. I think fluffy bunnies was just trying to drive the point home that that advice is retarded and anyone following that advice is also retarded. I don't want to put words in their mouth though.
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Aug 25, 2014 15:57
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mcswizzle posted:I think it's more related to the kind of ridiculous effort of training a corgi to use a litter box in lieu of walks. It kind of engenders the feeling of getting the wrong advice from the wrong people, in my opinion. If one of my friends came up to me and said "I litter trained my puppy!" I would literally smack them in the face and ask them where they got such lovely information from.  What do you wanna put in my mouth instead.And yeah mostly that. And you know, you're dumb as balls if your dog shits/pisses inside on the regular and there's not some medical poo poo going down. People did it all the time in  and it was gross as gently caress even if it's "normal" over there because concrete jungles everywhere.Parvo used to eat puppies that were vaccinated back where I grew up and we still slung them outside and made them go in the dirt and stuff when they were like 8 weeks old because that's how you train them not to poo poo in a litter box. Also god drat it don't hit people over stupid animal things this is why SA thinks PI is the nutso place even though you have goons killing people and you know, dropping like flies in TCC and whatever. Your limp wristed attempt at smacking them around would just make them laugh anyway mickeyswiz.
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Aug 25, 2014 17:13
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Okay hello, I raised a corgi puppy in an apartment and did not once teach it to go to the bathroom indoors or on the balcony (our upstairs neighbors did that, and the piss and poo poo trickled down in the way that Reaganomics works, please don't loving do that). It is absolutely doable, but TAKE YOUR PUPPY OUTSIDE. Your vet does not want you to be quarantining your dog indoors like a 1900's scarlet fever victim, just avoid the dog park and you'll be fine. I highly doubt that Tumbles will catch anything at all if you keep him from seeing the world. At 10 weeks, it is WAY more important for him to be experiencing things like: motorcycles (loud and scary!), crazy neighbors outdoors (erratic and scary!), people carrying crutches (new and scary!), people of color (different and therefore to a dog scary!), people on skateboards (rolly and scary!)...do you see where I am going with this? He is just about to end his critical socialization period (if he hasn't already) and you NEED to be giving him the opportunity to positively experience these things. Hell, I made a major loving effort at making sure Neige saw and liked as many things and people as possible, and she still had gaps (ladders and canes, to be specific). Have him meet tolerant dogs you know are vaccinated, one on one. Have him meet people at Home Depot. Take him outside. Also, he's a herding dog. He needs as much exercise and mental stimulation as he can possibly get if you don't want him to destroy everything you hold dear. Take him outside. A walk might not wear him out physically, but the new experiences will be invaluable at keeping his little brain active and making sure you can sleep at night. You can do it. Take Tumbles outside. He will transform from one of these:  to a pro like this: 
ButWhatIf fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Aug 25, 2014 |
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Aug 25, 2014 18:01
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m.hache posted:That's good to know. I'll see how she is tonight. If she doesn't eat this gastro food it's a trip to the vet first thing in the AM. I like labs. How'd she end up?
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Aug 25, 2014 18:30
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Ikantski posted:I like labs. How'd she end up? Well we ended up at the emergency vet because she started to become lethargic. Of course the second we get there she perks right up. Explain to them what was going. Temp was fine, no obstructions in the throat. So we decided to try to feed her there. Devours the entire bowl. She thinks it might have been some sort of stomach issue and gave us some antibiotics. This morning was the first day she ate her kibble without soft food mixed in. All ok for now. 
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Aug 25, 2014 18:53
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Wow yikes, I did not expect this to blow up like this. FWIW, I've done a ton of research on corgis and know they are high energy and require a LOT of work and exercise. I'm not having her go inside as a means of getting out of walking. We have lots of playtime during the day, as well as visitors and weekly puppy kindergarten. I'm hoping to start taking her to puppy playtime at the puppy school this week too. She definitely wears herself out between naps, just not from long walks outdoors (and believe me, I'm planning on those when I feel like she's safe). From talking to other people who live in cities (dog owners, trainers, etc), I've heard over and over that teaching them to go indoors is an ok thing to do, and then you can transition to outdoors once they are further along with vaccinations. I also read "Before and After Getting Your Puppy" - recommended in the main post here and in the training thread - and the author describes an indoor toilet as a valid option until they are a bit older, so I had no idea this was controversial. Anyway, we're doing the back patio toilet thing (still with the litter box, since she has more of an association with that than with concrete), plus walks around the patio area to give her some room to explore. I'm still not going to take her out front to walk around until I get an ok from the vet, especially since my front sidewalk is basically a throughway for the dog park, but I'm doing my best to both tire her out and expose her to as much as possible. I've also taken her out into the world a couple of times and carried her around, and she seemed fascinated by watching everything around her. I am aware she's not by any means a lap dog that will always want to ride in my arms, but I also didn't think little pups were up for a huge amount of walking anyway? I'll let her walk for part of that next time when we're a bit further from the park. Anyway, I'm happy to listen to advice here (and I have been!), but I swear I'm not a total idiot and have done my research and learned this stuff from what I believe to be decent sources. Thanks to all of you who have given advice/info beyond just telling me I'm dumb - I promise I'm listening and trying my best!
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Aug 25, 2014 19:09
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biggest platypus posted:I've also taken her out into the world a couple of times Hahaha oh boy
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Aug 25, 2014 19:34
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biggest platypus posted:From talking to other people who live in cities (dog owners, trainers, etc), I've heard over and over that teaching them to go indoors is an ok thing to do, and then you can transition to outdoors once they are further along with vaccinations. I am a trainer who lives in a city and yes you CAN do this but why would you add that extra step? The not-vaccinated thing is way less of a gigantic deal than you (and apparently your vet, jesus christ) are making it out to be. It is way more important for him to be interacting with the world, because in two weeks that critical socialization period will be done. Finished. You will have to do remedial socialization to new experiences, and that can be way more time-consuming and less effective. Between 4-12 weeks (very approximately), your puppy really needs to be seeing as much of the world as you can manage. I recommend to my clients that they need to be meeting 50-100 new kinds of people and things a week, bare minimum. Otherwise, you run the risk of a dog that is fearful of new things or just reactive as hell. Ask me how many reactive dogs I've had to work with who had no experience with meeting new things during their critical period. It's a lot.
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Aug 25, 2014 19:39
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m.hache posted:Well we ended up at the emergency vet because she started to become lethargic. Of course the second we get there she perks right up. Explain to them what was going. I'm glad to hear she's okay but definitely keep a close eye. My lab had something similar when he was about the same age, puking bile and no appetite. We were going to take him to the vet and then he threw up a bolt and a wood screw. We were helping people move and they had food mixed in with reno garbage in a bag on the floor, never even noticed it. Thank god it didn't get into his intestines but it drilled into us that labs are morons who will gladly eat screws if there's a little gravy on them.
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Aug 25, 2014 19:50
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Ikantski posted:I'm glad to hear she's okay but definitely keep a close eye. My lab had something similar when he was about the same age, puking bile and no appetite. We were going to take him to the vet and then he threw up a bolt and a wood screw. We were helping people move and they had food mixed in with reno garbage in a bag on the floor, never even noticed it. Thank god it didn't get into his intestines but it drilled into us that labs are morons who will gladly eat screws if there's a little gravy on them. Well the biggest concern was if there was an obstruction of any sort she would either throw up her food, or not poop. She has been pooping fine and only threw up the one day. As it stands now she's back to her high energy/annoying self so I think we're in the clear. Still finishing up the round of Anti Biotics though.
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Aug 25, 2014 19:53
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Everyone is probably a little on edge because Corgis are a bit trendy right now. Morons see corgi butt vids and their stumpy little legs and buy them without knowing any of the breed characteristics. They are a moderate to high energy working dog, and are loud to boot. Seriously though. Don't do litter boxes or puppy pads of any sort. If you must, do them outside. They need a clear boundary of poo poo ZONE and home. Being in an apartment can actually be a help with potty training. We've had our Toller (in an apartment) for 3 weeks and she's absolutely golden on that front, as well as walking on a leash. Well ahead of her litter mates if their anecdotes paint a realistic picture. I partially attribute this to the apartment, because there is no fluid movement from in and out through a screen door. When she gets outside she pees instantly, even if there ain't much there, and shits shortly thereafter. Contrast that with my sister in law's now 7 month old Labradoodle. They used pee pads because they couldn't be assed to take her down the stairs /elevator, and now they have a dog well on her way to 70 pounds who can't poo poo or pee outside. loving triple handers on their floor every day. She also fucks up their apartment all day because "crate training is so mean and she cried =(". Then they offload her on my in-laws to go on vacation. Guess who's dog they prefer to have over? Yup. The 12 weeker. What is so amazing is that I gave them soooooo much advice that they agreed with, and promptly gave up on the second poo poo got hard. Aka, Day One. Basically, people don't want you to be like my sister in law + her husband and ruin Tumbles (who is cute as gently caress).
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Aug 25, 2014 19:55
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What ButWhatIf said. Seriously, though. If the puppy's mother was vaccinated, the puppy has an immunity up to a certain point, which is why we then start vaccinating them on the puppy shot schedule the way we do, so as to overlap immunities so the dog doesn't get sick. Unless your neighborhood has a high incidence of parvo, giardia, coccidia, lepto, or any lovely exploding butt diseases, the pup will be fine. Don't let it eat or play around poop. That's p. much it. Also, I don't know if people really understand what "socializing" means for a puppy. This isn't just a "look there's a thing, ok yay done." It's taking the time to make sure the puppy feels comfortable enough to eat or play or be relaxed in a new situation. Ellie was scared shitless of a soccer ball on one of our walks when she was a little peanut. So we took a good 20 minutes to hang out by the ball and reinforce that the ball is super awesome and not going to eat her. Slow introductions, letting her approach by herself, distractions and playing with leaves etc. Then when we were calm and not freaking out, continuing on our merry little way. Because I took the time to properly socialize her and start the moment she came home at 9 weeks, I now have a very brazen, confident dog, but one that will still look to me for guidance if she is ever unsure since I was there to calmly assure her through the scary parts. http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2184
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Aug 25, 2014 19:57
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m.hache posted:Well the biggest concern was if there was an obstruction of any sort she would either throw up her food, or not poop. She has been pooping fine and only threw up the one day. Awesome, she's a good looking lab! She could have passed whatever stupid thing she ate too, hopefully that's the end of that.
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Aug 25, 2014 20:10
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Ikantski posted:Awesome, she's a good looking lab! She could have passed whatever stupid thing she ate too, hopefully that's the end of that. drat well better be. I couldn't get any sleep because every time she coughed I would wake up to make sure she was ok, only to find her sprawled on her back legs spread eagle out cold. Dog better have a full long life because I can't handle not having her cute face around.
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Aug 25, 2014 20:13
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Ikantski posted:labs are morons who will gladly eat screws if there's a little gravy on them. I'm surprised yours needed the gravy. Mine doesn't
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Aug 25, 2014 20:36
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Re: housebreaking and balconies. I had to housetrain my pups during a nasty cold Canadian winter, and I fully admit sometimes rushing them to the snow-covered balcony was a better option than either allowing them to piss on the floor or trying to carry them down a flight of stairs to get to the actual outdoors. Just one single anecdote of a PI regular letting her dogs piss on a balcony, nbd. For the record, nowadays they only piss outside on either grass or one particular gravel driveway
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Aug 26, 2014 02:14
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I bet your downstairs neighbors really appreciated that.
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Aug 26, 2014 02:17
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Triangulum posted:I bet your downstairs neighbors really appreciated that. The balcony is above my driveway so the people downstairs didn't have a clue. We get the street half of the building, their entry is to the alley behind. It was honestly nbd except for the gross factor of shoveling yellow snow to the driveway below, then shoveling that elsewhere so we didn't have to walk over it.
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Aug 26, 2014 02:22
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adventure in the sandbox posted:The balcony is above my driveway so the people downstairs didn't have a clue. We get the street half of the building, their entry is to the alley behind. It was honestly nbd except for the gross factor of shoveling yellow snow to the driveway below, then shoveling that elsewhere so we didn't have to walk over it. Really in any balcony scenario, do what I did, get one of those fake grass piss pads (that has a tray, so you're not leaking piss). My 11 week lab pup is pretty much house broken now with one of those on the balcony. The things are expensive as hell, shoulda just made my own in retrospect, but it's worth it to not do 4 stories every couple of hours with the pup. Mind you, heed the advice above (this is my 5th lab in my life so not my first rodeo with housebreaking training), don't ever get a piss pad and use it indoors unless you want a dog that thinks it's ok to piss indoors for the rest of it's life (or until you go through round two of housebreaking, which is insane, why do something twice that should only be done once?) Also, this isn't in lieu of walks. Walks are walks. Piss time is piss time. The two do not go hand in hand necessarily. When a pooch is taken to its piss/poo poo spot (which should be the same place every time when it's home time, as this'll really reinforce that they have a specific toilet and shouldn't be going on the floors inside or anywhere they want on the balcony or front yard), it should know that this is toilet time and not play time or walk time--mixing the play or exercise in can lead to behavioral issues. This will save you loads of time in knowing where to clean up and, if it's an apartment situation, keeping you from being the lovely neighbor that has the dog mucking up the shared spaces. Once the pooch has been trained to this idea, if you're still having issues with accidents indoors--this is 100% on you and not the dog's fault. Really it can be argued that any house breaking incident isn't the puppies fault, they have super small bladders with little control over them--if you aren't attentive and watching that pooch like a hawk as well as taking the dog to it's piss spot frequently, of course it's going to go indoors because it simply can't hold it that long, even if it knows where it should be going toilet. Hobo Grandpa fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Aug 26, 2014 |
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Aug 26, 2014 06:31
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Hobo Grandpa posted:Really in any balcony scenario, do what I did, get one of those fake grass piss pads (that has a tray, so you're not leaking piss). My 11 week lab pup is pretty much house broken now with one of those on the balcony. The things are expensive as hell, shoulda just made my own in retrospect, but it's worth it to not do 4 stories every couple of hours with the pup. Yup, welcome to my life. Potty tray on the patio of my (first floor) apartment, doggy door so he can use it when I'm at work. Does the truck just fine, tho it probably wouldn't if Tater were a digger.
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Aug 27, 2014 02:53
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No one responded to my cry for help regarding my catahoula puppy a little while ago, but I'm finding out that he's just a hard headed loving demon from hell. An adorable, amazing demon from hell. He's the cuddliest, neediest little furry fucker that has ever existed. When you wake up in the morning and he hears your voice, he crawls to you and licks your face and is just generally loving STOKED that you're still alive. He's great. He's so stubborn and SO hard to train, but we're getting there. Really, there's only three main issues: 1) He will not leave the cat alone. His prey drive is off the charts and every time the cat moves, he goes into trance mode. 2) He begs, begs, begs, begs, begs for food because he was fed table food for the first 4 months of his life, presumably, by a lovely rear end owner. 3) He is the most bored, restless loving puppy in the world if you don't take him for a minimum 30-40 minute walk per day.  
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Aug 27, 2014 10:13
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D Lambent posted:No one responded to my cry for help regarding my catahoula puppy a little while ago, but I'm finding out that he's just a hard headed loving demon from hell. An adorable, amazing demon from hell. He's the cuddliest, neediest little furry fucker that has ever existed. When you wake up in the morning and he hears your voice, he crawls to you and licks your face and is just generally loving STOKED that you're still alive. He's great. He's so stubborn and SO hard to train, but we're getting there. #1 and #3 can probably be dealt with at the same time: do more with your dog. 30-40 minute a day is (in my opinion) kind of laughable. 30-40 minutes of play might wear him out for a couple of hours, but if he's got energy like you're explaining you need to put more into it. For my fairly high-energy dogs I try to give them 4-5 30-40 minute walks a day, plus at least 1hr of heavy play/running (fetch) shortly after work, and then I also try to include them in any activities I can (if we go out places, I like to bring them) which means several more walks up to a few miles. While I was still in NY, we would walk 5-6 miles on nice days after work in the park, not including normal potty walks. With lots of consistent training and less energy, it should be easier to get him off the cat. Training is consistently teaching the dog that the cat is ~boring~ (e: I meant to say this in order to make clear the point that I spend way more than 30 minutes with my dogs a day, and they still have boundless energy and can be a handful if you're not prepared for that. I got sidetracked with my point.) #2 teach him a "Go to" command, like to his crate, or a mat. Then, whenever you have food, keep treats nearby and have him go to the mat, and just keep tossing treats to him while he stay's there. I think cryingscarf has a remote operated treat releaser? But that might be kind of expensive. mcswizzle fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Aug 27, 2014 |
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Aug 27, 2014 14:02
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Yeah, 30-40 minutes a day of exercise just takes the edge off to keep them from (literally) chewing on the walls just to have something to do. Mine need around 2 hours of physical/mental stimulation a day to keep them manageable.
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Aug 27, 2014 14:29
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Also catahoulas are really not a dog for everyone. They have high prey drives, need a lot of mental and physical stimulation, and can be hard to handle. Have to considered that this might not be the right dog for you?
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Aug 27, 2014 15:30
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D Lambent posted:No one responded to my cry for help regarding my catahoula puppy a little while ago, but I'm finding out that he's just a hard headed loving demon from hell. An adorable, amazing demon from hell. He's the cuddliest, neediest little furry fucker that has ever existed. When you wake up in the morning and he hears your voice, he crawls to you and licks your face and is just generally loving STOKED that you're still alive. He's great. He's so stubborn and SO hard to train, but we're getting there. He's really loving cute. I'm fairly sure your issues all combined are more than this forum can help you with right now, but my opinion on #1: You may well never be able to fix his prey drive, but he may be young enough, but start teaching a leave it command - he gets the best loving treat in the world when he ignores the cat. Start with him on a leash next to you and looking at you instead of the cat if you can't get him anywhere near a 'leave it' without it. #3: He's a puppy, he's full of energy and ready to learn. Channel that! Do positive training and mind games! That will wear out his brain faster than his body. 30-40 min of exercise is really the bare minimum for any dog, much more a high energy prey driven breed. Begging: Just ignore. Except if he's literally jumping on you or the table, then just calming move him or make the food less available. I can forward on the recommendation for the book/training method "When Pigs Fly" that someone here recced to me for my stubborn loving pit puppy. All you need is to read the book (even just the first chapter), a $1 clicker, and treats the dog goes apeshit for. Cheese and hot dogs are universally good. It's really been helping, it's a process to rewire her because she's a year old I think but you should see if you can start it now with your pup. It's about teaching them to be operant dogs, ie try things to want to please you, whereas many 'easy' dog breeds will do this already because of genetic predisposition, many bully breeds won't. At least that's my understanding of it. pizzadog fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Aug 27, 2014 |
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Aug 27, 2014 15:45
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wtftastic posted:Also catahoulas are really not a dog for everyone. They have high prey drives, need a lot of mental and physical stimulation, and can be hard to handle. Have to considered that this might not be the right dog for you? This pretty much. What you're describing is super super normal for a high energy puppy who's bored out of his mind. A 30 minute walk isn't going to put even a dent in his energy level and isn't nearly enough to keep him from being bored as poo poo and driving you totally insane. It honestly sounds like you're probably not equipped to handle a dog with this energy level. When my German Shepherd was around that age, he got two hours of leashed walks, two hours of free running, and training on and off throughout the entire day and he was still literally climbing every object in my house, shrieking and bouncing off the walls. The best I could get out him was 2 one hour naps after the park if I got real lucky. Leashed walks really aren't exercise for high energy dogs and if you want him to ever settle down you need to step up your game significantly and start engaging both his mind and his body. The one thing I found that really wore out my dog was scent work. I started out by tossing handfuls of kibble/treats on the ground and when he put his head down and started sniffing, told him "find it". You can progress to scattering his entire meal around your house and yard or hiding a food-filled kong somewhere. I ended up buying a retrieving dummy that could be filled with treats and taking it to the park every time we went because searching in the house got easy for Vex pretty fast. You also are gonna want to start seriously working on training him to settle on a mat but you probably won't get far until you start stepping up his daily exercise routine. But seriously, your dog is bored and under stimulated. If you don't think you can commit to a couple hours of training and exercise every day for the next 10 years or so, I'd think long and hard about whether your the right home for this dog.
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Aug 27, 2014 17:24
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Oh and just an anecdote of my personal experience, a neighborhood walk versus a wilderness walk does far different things for my dogs energy level. A half hour or hour around the neighborhood she's still amped, an hour out on a dirt trail with lots of scents she sleeps all evening between small bouts of wrestling the other dog. Seems like maybe this combines the exercise plus scent work. She's still leashed, but it's just more interesting and new for her and not so much to get her amped, more solitude, and the hills aren't bad either for getting her energy out.
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Aug 27, 2014 18:07
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D Lambent posted:
Erhh, even my low-energy Great Dane puppy needs at least one 45 minute walk per day to keep her sane.
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Aug 27, 2014 18:15
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Thanks for all of the advice from everyone, it's super appreciated. Things have drastically improved over the past week or so. The begging is getting much better and we can make it through full meals now without having to worry too much about him. He has his own spot on the floor and typically will go lay down once he realizes it just isn't going to happen. A big problem is his previous owner was totally useless in training him. We're basically starting over. I know that longer walks multiple times a day would be more effective but I'm trying to work him up to that. A 40 minute walk is enough to completely knock him out for several hours. He has peak energy around 4 PM every day and around midnight because we work weird hours, but a decent walk usually knocks that right out, even with how high energy he is. The cat thing is slowly working itself out over the days, but like someone mentioned, it couples with exercise. Usually after walks he's far too tired to care about the cat and primarily bothers him whenever the cat goes on one of his psycho runs throughout the house. I've definitely had thoughts that he may not be the right breed of dog for me, but I don't think that's the case. We're working through things and he's still very young. "Leave it" works wonderful and he can pick up on a lot of commands for being so young.
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Aug 27, 2014 20:15
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D Lambent posted:I've definitely had thoughts that he may not be the right breed of dog for me, but I don't think that's the case. We're working through things and he's still very young. "Leave it" works wonderful and he can pick up on a lot of commands for being so young. I appreciate that you're putting effort into it and not just giving up and surrendering him. Problem children and stubborn pooches have a rough life in the adoption world. If you put the time into it, he's going to respond. It just may take a lot of time. But even well bred dogs that take well to training take a ton of time and effort. It's a frustrating phase, but the payoff is huge when it starts to show return. Keep at it.
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Aug 27, 2014 20:20
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Hobo Grandpa posted:I appreciate that you're putting effort into it and not just giving up and surrendering him. Problem children and stubborn pooches have a rough life in the adoption world. If you put the time into it, he's going to respond. It just may take a lot of time. But even well bred dogs that take well to training take a ton of time and effort. It's a frustrating phase, but the payoff is huge when it starts to show return. Keep at it. Absolutely. I've never given up a dog in my life and I don't really intend to start now. I'll adapt to his needs as I need to and make it all work. He's so incredibly smart that he's picking up on stuff fast, but like every other 4 month old puppy in the world, he's forgetful and stubborn. One thing that amazes me is how he sleeps completely through the night without waking up, whining, etc. whatsoever. My wife and I both work late night jobs and when we lay down for bed at night, he hops up in bed, curls up and passes out regardless of the amount of exercise he's had. The other night, my wife tried to let him outside when she woke in the morning to use the bathroom and he just went back to sleep. Never ever had an accident overnight.
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Aug 27, 2014 20:31
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Hey um thanks for all the advice on bringing Tumbles outside! I *swear* research made it seem like litter box was the way to go, since she was supposedly already trained to use that, but I started bringing her out back after the first couple of people suggested it and WOW it has made a gigantic difference (and I'm kicking myself for not doing it from day one). The vet cleared her for "short walks near the house" until she gets her second set of vaccinations, which I'm taking to mean "shortish walks slightly further from the dog park than my house is". I'm still super paranoid about parvo, etc, but it seems to be worth it - she is so happy to meet people and smell things, and she is coping well with scary motorcycles and all different types of people, and it's been a great experience all around. Not to mention, she's bored at home, no matter how much running around and playing I try to do with her (understandably). Fingers crossed she doesn't catch something terrible, but hopefully it'll be fine, and she should get a bit more freedom after her second round of shots next week. I am beyond excited for real, long walks with her and eventually the dog park. We're meeting some more dogs this week and weekend and I'm making sure to get her out of the house every day. And oh, the post walk naptime!  So. Thanks!
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Aug 28, 2014 08:07
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If parvo isn't running rampant your dog is not going to die from touching the ground outside. For like the tenth time, don't let her eat or roll in dog poo poo and you are probably golden. Walking her outside now is going to save you a lot of problems in the long run.
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Aug 28, 2014 12:56
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Tumbles will be fine. I lived along the I-5 corridor when Neige was a puppy, where parvo is literally rampant, and she was fine. 100 new people and experiences a week, I'm not joking. Corgis bark a lot when they're NOT flipping out at something they perceive as scary, and right now nothing is really very scary because he's still in that "woo all new experiences are potentially cool and interesting, since all experiences are new experiences" phase. Very soon he's gonna hit his first fear period, and that's generally when you learn what gaps there are in your socialization work.
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Aug 28, 2014 18:51
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My breeder just sent me new photos of my little Klein  I'm picking him up in a week, and I'm so excited. I haven't had a puppy in ten years. I guess my main question is about crate training. My current dog was never really crate trained... she has one, but she never gets closed in it because she never makes messes in the house or tears things up. It's just "her" space. I work from home so I'll be home with him most of the time, but I'm worried that when I crate him at night he'll cry and keep my neighbors awake. How long should it take for him to get used to it? Cuniculous fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 17:46
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Cuniculous posted:I work from home so I'll be home with him most of the time, but I'm worried that when I crate him at night he'll cry and keep my neighbors awake. How long should it take for him to get used to it? I just got a new puppy two weeks ago and we've been crate training him. The first two nights we let him sleep in bed with us to help him deal with the transition. After that we made him sleep in the crate at night (tethered near crate, but not locked in crate). So he could decide to sleep on the hard cold floor or in the crate on a soft, warm blanket. The first night he cried and howled off and on whenever he woke up, but stayed in the crate. The second night he whimpered for a while but went to sleep. We lock him up in his crate now at night, and other than him whining for bathroom breaks, he's fine with it. I think the important things you should do are: 1) Play crate games and get your puppy comfortable in the crate ASAP. I started out putting a treat in the crate and closing it with the puppy on the outside! Make him WANT to get in there! 2) Do NOT give in. Once you start with the crate, no backsliding. Stick to the plan. Only let him out for bathroom breaks, and then put him right back in afterwards. Our little guy HATES going outside at night in the dark, and he learned quickly that crying only resulted in getting carried out for a potty break. No playtime, no exploring, just business. 3) Exercise your puppy and get him "dog" tired right before bed. A sleepy puppy will settle down quicker than one full of energy. 4) Talk to your neighbors, introduce your puppy, and give them a heads up that they will probably hear some barking while you train your dog. Find out when they go to sleep and try to get your puppy in bed before that time, so he's not barking his head off after they are already asleep. 5) I wouldn't count on much sleep the first few nights, but if you are consistent it should improve very quickly. Learn to take naps when your puppy does.
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Sep 2, 2014 19:07
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So, Hana the Great Dane seems to have picked up a cold. Symptoms are very mild (a little coughing, runny eyes and the occasional runny nose), but she's otherwise fine. Debating whether to go to the vet or not. She's 4 months old. Any opinions? (edit: vet appointment booked for tomorrow, as wife said symptoms were getting worse) ImplicitAssembler fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Sep 2, 2014 |
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Sep 2, 2014 19:50
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ImplicitAssembler posted:So, Hana the Great Dane seems to have picked up a cold. Symptoms are very mild (a little coughing, runny eyes and the occasional runny nose), but she's otherwise fine. Kennel cough! Yes, get it treated before it progresses to a worse infection.
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Sep 2, 2014 23:05
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