|
It's going to gently caress up your alignment and piss off the CVs quicker, but that's about it. I lifted my car about an inch last year and only had a pissed off CV. If you find the rear tires too far forward, you can recenter them with an outback trailing arm drop bracket.
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 15:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 12:48 |
|
|
There's a whole thread (or more) on Dirtyimpreza about how to properly do the subframe spacers and other longer bits in order to move the entire suspension properly for an Outback conversion. The struts themselves won't do much for you.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 16:13
|
|
|
It appears one of my front top-hats has some slight cracking in the rubber, how high on the priority list should this be to replace? I was going to wait and get new struts/springs but I also don't want to die.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 16:27
|
|
|
Hollis Brown posted:It appears one of my front top-hats has some slight cracking in the rubber, how high on the priority list should this be to replace? I was going to wait and get new struts/springs but I also don't want to die. You're fine to drive for awhile, my old 97 had cracked rubber in the mounts for years and my 03 has seized bearings on one side and torn rubber on the other. It just rides like poo poo. If it cracks completely around and starts bouncing around and hitting the underside of the hood with the strut shaft, you've gone too far.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 16:30
|
|
|
Mat_Drinks posted:Anyone on here have a '15 WRX yet or are the inventory levels still low. I'm curious to see what people are doing with them and how they like them. Yea I have a premium. As far as I've seen just poking around local dealers is the supply is still pretty limited around here. I haven't done anything to it yet but I'm in love with it so far. Took it out for an autocross a couple weeks ago and it performed great.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 16:40
|
|
|
Mat_Drinks posted:Anyone on here have a '15 WRX yet or are the inventory levels still low. I'm curious to see what people are doing with them and how they like them. I'm about to buy one - maybe even today. In Houston, supplies on the base model are low. Premium and limited seem to be plentiful.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 17:15
|
|
|
The Austin dealership has one or two CVTs on hand at any given time it seems. I've yet to see a manual make it to their lot without being special ordered or reserved while in transit.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 17:17
|
|
|
Mat_Drinks posted:Anyone on here have a '15 WRX yet or are the inventory levels still low. I'm curious to see what people are doing with them and how they like them. I got my '15 Premium 6MT back in May after my '11 WRX was totalled. I've only seen 4 or 5 other '15s on the road around the Denver area so far. When I took mine in for its first service last week the tech said they're still tough to get, especially in the premium trim. Haven't yet seen a '15 STi on the road, but a couple of the local dealerships had the Launch Editions.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 17:22
|
|
|
Here in western PA, there hasn't been a single '15 WRX in inventory longer than a few hours. '15 STI launch editions are pretty easy to get though. I've seen a bunch of those listed.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 20:02
|
|
|
I need a clutch kit for my 99 Forester with a EJ20 SOHC in it, what is a good setup? The throwout bearing is definitely bad already, and the clutch chatters when cold. Also, what is a good pad & rotor combo? Centric rotors and HPS pads?
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 20:38
|
|
|
I like the Exedy stuff you can get off Amazon. I have never had a good experience with resurfacing flywheels, but I've been told that I'm a little sensitive to clutch issues. Centric and HPS is fine.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
exedy is OEM on subarus centric premium rotors and stoptech pads are what I run
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
I am pretty sure it has been asked, but here we go again... My 04 WRX just had the front right CV axle boot tear and fling nasty grease all over the engine bay. It stinks nice and good and I assume the normal course of action is a new CV axle assembly. Is there a preferred brand I should get other than whatever rockauto tells me? OEM? Jamal? Also, I am gonna guess that if I do one/get one done, I should probably do the other while I am at it as the car is at around 101K miles. How hard is this for a novice/intermediate DIY guy? Any special tools other than jack stands and hand tools? I did the timing belt and struts on my own FWIW.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 21:29
|
|
|
04 WRX should have a pinned axle with stub shafts coming out of the tranny. I prefer Cardone Select if you can get it. They're new axles, they come with a nut, they come with a pin, and they look pretty much the same as the OEM axles. RockAuto has 'em. I wouldn't bother doing the other side until it actually does fail. Check out your ball joints and the condition of the other axle before you do your order, of course. You can reboot the axle unless a lot of poo poo has gotten into the joint, but replacement might be easier. I would pull and replace and then see if the old axle can be rebooted and kept on hand as a spare. Replacement should take about an hour if you have the right punch and a 32mm axle socket. Strongly recommend an impact as doing it with a breaker bar means you have to pop the centre cap on the wheel and do it on the ground, which is a pain in the rear end. Hardest part otherwise is lining the splines up so you can get the pin in when you're putting the axle back on the tranny. I usually mark the strut bolts and then unbolt the strut in order to get the upright out far enough to be able to slip the axle into the hub. If you do this you need a torque wrench that hits the strut bolt torque spec (133 ft-lb if memory serves) which not all do. Axle nut torque is 137lb, then stake the nut. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Aug 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 21:33
|
|
|
I need to make a video for this for my website and just link it every time someone asks. You can reboot the axle and repack it with grease for way cheaper or just get a rock auto CV, it doesn't really matter. I've raced on cardone and empi and they held up fine. If its a stud type transmission, you'll have to knock the roll pin out of the axle with a punch, if its female type trans, you'll have to just pry the axle out. 32MM nut for the axle nut, then you have to move the knuckle, either by disconnecting the ball joint or undoing the strut. Daslog will show up and say just disconnect the forward control arm which I think is stupid but I guess that works too. Other people will say pop the knuckle off at the balljoint but that thing is probably frozen the gently caress into the control arm and cooter pins are dumb. I undo the strut and just mark the top bolt with a sharpie to put alignment back together. With air tools that's the fastest way. If you can do a timing job you can easily do an axle in out.
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 21:35
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:I need to make a video for this for my website and just link it every time someone asks. You don't have to do the entire control arm, just one bolt. It's stupid simple. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 28, 2014 23:43
|
|
|
Thanks for the replies guys. This car is certainly giving me a good education on diy repairs these last few years.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 01:15
|
|
|
Today I traded in my 2012 mustang for a WR blue 2015 WRX. Really digging it so far. edit: YAY YAY !!!
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 05:21
|
|
|
Geology posted:Today I traded in my 2012 mustang for a WR blue 2015 WRX. Really digging it so far. Awesome, welcome.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 18:34
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:04 WRX should have a pinned axle with stub shafts coming out of the tranny. I ordered one like you mentioned. I took a look today and both inner boots are shot, so I then ordered a second axle. I started taking off the old one and saw no pin at the transmission side. I gently pried out the cv axle and now I am looking into the transmission. Did I mess up something or are the older CV axles male on both ends? I see no pins to drift out anywhere. Anyway, it's out and nothing else has broken so far. As my wife is having her first root canal today I expect it will be tomorrow at the earliest before I can move ahead any further.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
Oh, my bad. Apparently an 04 WRX is male on both ends and therefore not pinned. You're splined with a circlip. The older front axles are pinned, and then at some point in 2004 they made a mid-year transition for the STI, but I thought the WRX stayed pinned until 05. In that case you should just be able to tug it out and drop the fresh one in like blk did with his Saabaru. Is the new axle pinned or splined? It might be worth checking to make sure, as it sounds like the 04 WRX might have the same mid-year transition. edit: RockAuto has multiple parts for an 04 WRX front axle - pinned ("before 9/03") and splined ("from 9/03") for both wagon and sedan, from what seems to be all the major brands. Which ones did you order? Sorry if you got the wrong ones because of me 
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Aug 29, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 20:49
|
|
|
Are their any effective differences between a 2013 WRX and my 14' wrx? Like as far as engine components/fitment?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 21:52
|
|
|
No. The only differences between 2011-2014 WRXs were the removal of the Impreza badge.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 21:55
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Oh, my bad. Apparently an 04 WRX is male on both ends and therefore not pinned. You're splined with a circlip. My 2004 WRX front axels are pinned.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 22:19
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:No. Didnt they do a facelift as well along the way somewhere I their? Also thanks, subaru loves telling parts dont exist for my car
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 22:27
|
|
|
I'm replacing my PCV valve and I've seen recommendations to tape the threads. Worth doing?
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 22:28
|
|
|
AcidRonin posted:Didnt they do a facelift as well along the way somewhere I their? Also thanks, subaru loves telling parts dont exist for my car Nope, they went widebody in 2011, but after that the WRX remained unchanged until the brand new 2015 model. http://www.cars101.com/ is a great resource for Subarus and what changed between model years.
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 22:40
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Nope, they went widebody in 2011, but after that the WRX remained unchanged until the brand new 2015 model. Been useing that website for my maintenence schedule. Good to hear someome else endorse it
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 22:45
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Oh, my bad. Apparently an 04 WRX is male on both ends and therefore not pinned. You're splined with a circlip. The rockauto one was after 9/03 in the description and the image showed it male/male so with luck I am ok. I went to autozone and looked at what they said I needed and it was with the pin, so a no go on that front. I also bought a boot rebuild locally, but I could only find an inner boot. It seems like just doing the inner is asking for trouble in a few months in or when the outer goes. Then this guy showed up to judge my beginner repair skills. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 29, 2014 22:50
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Here in western PA, there hasn't been a single '15 WRX in inventory longer than a few hours. Same for South Jersey. I picked up my LE for invoice, but most dealers around here think that Launch Edition means a lot more than it does, so there's a ton of markup. poo poo, there was one dealership who was asking 4k over sticker for one. Oh, and don't always trust online inventory. There's a dealer near me who always has a WRX in, but it never shows up on their website for some reason. idk.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 13:50
|
|
|
Hmm. Looking for a WRX but have always been afraid to buy a used one...especially one with a thousand mods. I can only imagine the number of 6k RPM launches have happened on something like that. Anyhow, this seems to check out... http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/1604167?ad_cid=8 I have owned 3 Subies in the past (Outback, 2 Foresters) but don't know much about WRXs. I do know I want a manual with low miles for ~$20k max, since I have a company car (this would be a hobby car, etc). Any thoughts? I know a static listing is impossible to discern details from, but I want to make sure the price/mileage/year isn't out of whack before I go look at it. Thanks Ninja edit. This one too (rebuilt title is scary...) http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/1533078?ad_cid=3
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 20:51
|
|
|
I ended up buying the bag of 100 o-rings from Amazon prime and putting it on my Legacy's steering pump. 1 10mm bolt, easier than an air filter. The pump had fluid on it and there was no o-ring to replace so I guess someone took it off and left it off. Anyway put one on, started it and moved the steering wheel, no fluid visible and no shuddering but I'll check it again after driving it. And I have 99 spare o-rings! 
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 22:26
|
|
|
 INCOMEING STUPID QUESTION So my 2014 came with the short throw shifter installed I just noticed on the sticker, but the shifts feel tall and not short at all. Its the OEM one alegedly. Is their a way to confirm this part is installed without takeing the center console apart? I am just curious its not somethinf I know I had
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 22:30
|
|
|
AcidRonin posted:
Pretty sure the OEM short shifter is just a chopped regular one. The aftermarket ones have different geometry to actually shorten the shifts. So it's totally possible you do.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 23:31
|
|
|
I got sick of stupid drivers not hearing my stock meep meep horns so I installed some hellas. Plus I think they look rad. I also put red pin striping on the front and rear bumper out of boredom. Not sure it will last there very long but I'm digging it for now.  I'm terrible at taking pictures and they're lovely cell phone ones to boot.
|
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 23:36
|
|
|
edit: ^is it just me, or do those exhaust tips look crooked? AcidRonin posted:
The oem short throw shift kit uses a lever roughly the same height as the base lever. The only real difference is in the shift linkage, the shift rod and main stay are slightly tweaked, and you'll only get ~15% of a shorter throw. McSpatula fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Aug 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 30, 2014 23:41
|
|
|
Woa where did you get that WRX plate delete? I have been looking for one that doesn't have a parts manufacture on it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2014 00:23
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Here in western PA, there hasn't been a single '15 WRX in inventory longer than a few hours. Yeah I'm in central pa and made a cars.com alert for a wrb limited wrx within 250 miles and it's just constant alert, contact dealer the same day, get told it's sold but I could order one, tell them no thanks I would order from the local dealer if I wanted to do that, get 3 weeks of follow up emails and calls from them, then repeat and repeat. I will probably just give up and order one. Edit: it's just frustrating because they are basically listing cars that they have already sold just to get you to contact them. itskage fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Aug 31, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2014 01:47
|
|
|
AcidRonin posted:Woa where did you get that WRX plate delete? I have been looking for one that doesn't have a parts manufacture on it. I think that's a Subaru OEM part.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 12:48 |
|
|
 I'm looking at this vehicle, and I've made the owner a tentative offer. If I don't get cold feet, I'm picking it up on Tuesday. Owner replaced the head gasket and timing belt already. When driving it, I didn't notice any issue with the center diff. No clicking or noise when turning at full lock. However, when I took a peek underneath, center CV boots are almost completely broken off and are leaking grease that looks like chocolate milkshake. How bad is this/how costly is it to get fixed? Casu Marzu fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Aug 31, 2014 |
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2014 03:35
|
|
