VW/Audi Exorcism Thread

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NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

We ran into a bit of a problem with my Dad's 2010 Golf TDI Saturday and we aren't sure where to start looking. Both rear brakes are stuck on, not completely clamped down but dragging a lot.

He took the car out for a quick session at a driving school...think autocross style, 60mph speed limit, a couple slow laps then 1.5 laps at moderate pace. He noticed it felt strange and seemed to have more rolling resistance than normal, he assumed flat tire so limped it into the pits. When he came in both rear wheel's pads were visibly smoking. Driving around parking lot at low speed can hear them dragging and engine working very hard. Parking brake doesn't have any play...usually 2 clicks before resistance, now very tight. He was running with the traction/stability control on. OEM equivalent pads/rotors with ~20k miles on them, all pads and rotors look essentially new. Front brakes are fine. No warning lights or anything on. We bled some fluid from each rear caliper but that didn't help relieve pressure. Parking brake arm (on the caliper) is fully relaxed resting on stop. We were able to drive the car to the event (1.5hr) with no problems and he daily drives it, this is first time he's had trouble with the rear brakes.

We were able to drive it onto a trailer but the engine is working very hard. Won't have time to look at it until next week, if anyone has ideas it would be appreciated. Is it possible for overheated pads to swell?

NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Aug 25, 2014

# ? Aug 25, 2014 13:17

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# ? May 28, 2024 11:32

Toebone: Jul 1, 2002; Start remembering what you hear.

The front brake pads on my 09 AT Rabbit are getting thin, so I'm going to replace them and do a brake fluid flush while I'm at it. I've watched a couple DIY videos on the subject and feel I can handle it, is there anything non-obvious I should keep in mind? I'm planning on getting OEM pads from germanautoparts.com and whichever VW-approved fluid Autozone has in stock.

Edit: Should I replace the rotors too? They look like they're in OK shape.

Toebone fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Aug 25, 2014

# ? Aug 25, 2014 16:03

concise: Aug 31, 2004; Ain't much to do
'round here.

NitroSpazzz posted:

We ran into a bit of a problem with my Dad's 2010 Golf TDI Saturday and we aren't sure where to start looking. Both rear brakes are stuck on, not completely clamped down but dragging a lot.

He took the car out for a quick session at a driving school...think autocross style, 60mph speed limit, a couple slow laps then 1.5 laps at moderate pace. He noticed it felt strange and seemed to have more rolling resistance than normal, he assumed flat tire so limped it into the pits. When he came in both rear wheel's pads were visibly smoking. Driving around parking lot at low speed can hear them dragging and engine working very hard. Parking brake doesn't have any play...usually 2 clicks before resistance, now very tight. He was running with the traction/stability control on. OEM equivalent pads/rotors with ~20k miles on them, all pads and rotors look essentially new. Front brakes are fine. No warning lights or anything on. We bled some fluid from each rear caliper but that didn't help relieve pressure. Parking brake arm (on the caliper) is fully relaxed resting on stop. We were able to drive the car to the event (1.5hr) with no problems and he daily drives it, this is first time he's had trouble with the rear brakes.

We were able to drive it onto a trailer but the engine is working very hard. Won't have time to look at it until next week, if anyone has ideas it would be appreciated. Is it possible for overheated pads to swell?

Your caliper guide pins might be stuck.

# ? Aug 25, 2014 16:39

trouser chili: Mar 27, 2002; Unnngggggghhhhh

NitroSpazzz posted:

We ran into a bit of a problem with my Dad's 2010 Golf TDI Saturday and we aren't sure where to start looking. Both rear brakes are stuck on, not completely clamped down but dragging a lot.

He took the car out for a quick session at a driving school...think autocross style, 60mph speed limit, a couple slow laps then 1.5 laps at moderate pace. He noticed it felt strange and seemed to have more rolling resistance than normal, he assumed flat tire so limped it into the pits. When he came in both rear wheel's pads were visibly smoking. Driving around parking lot at low speed can hear them dragging and engine working very hard. Parking brake doesn't have any play...usually 2 clicks before resistance, now very tight. He was running with the traction/stability control on. OEM equivalent pads/rotors with ~20k miles on them, all pads and rotors look essentially new. Front brakes are fine. No warning lights or anything on. We bled some fluid from each rear caliper but that didn't help relieve pressure. Parking brake arm (on the caliper) is fully relaxed resting on stop. We were able to drive the car to the event (1.5hr) with no problems and he daily drives it, this is first time he's had trouble with the rear brakes.

Manual transmission? I wonder if the hill-assist has malfunctioned. Hill-assist prevents the car from rolling backwards while stopped. It's supposed to engage when the clutch is pushed in and 1st gear is selected, and it gives you a few seconds to get on the gas pedal and start feathering the clutch before disengaging the brakes. Try disconnecting the battery and see if the brakes release.

Edit: Nevermind the transmission question, transmission doesn't matter as both manual and DSG transmissions have the hill-hold.

trouser chili fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Aug 25, 2014

# ? Aug 25, 2014 19:22

webmeister: Jan 31, 2007; The answer is, mate, because I want to do you slowly. There has to be a bit of sport in this for all of us. In the psychological battle stakes, we are stripped down and ready to go. I want to see those ashen-faced performances; I want more of them. I want to be encouraged. I want to see you squirm.

Question about a 2001 Golf: it's an auto transmission and has this feature where you can't shift out of Park/Neutral without your foot on the brake. Over the last few days it seems like the brake sensor has started malfunctioning, as it now usually takes 4-5 pumps on the brake pedal before I can shift out of park.

Is this a minor issue I can fix myself (or a feature I can disable), or is it going to be a costly trip to the mechanic?

# ? Aug 26, 2014 23:44

veedubfreak: Apr 2, 2005; by Smythe

webmeister posted:

Question about a 2001 Golf: it's an auto transmission and has this feature where you can't shift out of Park/Neutral without your foot on the brake. Over the last few days it seems like the brake sensor has started malfunctioning, as it now usually takes 4-5 pumps on the brake pedal before I can shift out of park.

Is this a minor issue I can fix myself (or a feature I can disable), or is it going to be a costly trip to the mechanic?

Make sure you have brake lights. The brake light switch on my 04.5 died and I can only imagine how long I drove with no brake lights until I just happened to have it in for inspection and they noticed.

# ? Aug 26, 2014 23:51

No. 6: Jun 30, 2002

webmeister posted:

Question about a 2001 Golf: it's an auto transmission and has this feature where you can't shift out of Park/Neutral without your foot on the brake. Over the last few days it seems like the brake sensor has started malfunctioning, as it now usually takes 4-5 pumps on the brake pedal before I can shift out of park.

Is this a minor issue I can fix myself (or a feature I can disable), or is it going to be a costly trip to the mechanic?

Generally the brake switch is a fairly easy fix. You'll likely need a torx bit to remove the tray above the pedals, from there I think there's a clip and a wire harness that hold the cylindrical switch in place.

# ? Aug 26, 2014 23:53

webmeister: Jan 31, 2007; The answer is, mate, because I want to do you slowly. There has to be a bit of sport in this for all of us. In the psychological battle stakes, we are stripped down and ready to go. I want to see those ashen-faced performances; I want more of them. I want to be encouraged. I want to see you squirm.

Thanks guys. Looks like when the transmission switch doesn't trigger, the brake lights don't come on either. I don't have a torx wrench so off to the mechanic in the morning :v:

# ? Aug 27, 2014 12:14

kmcormick9: Feb 2, 2004; Magenta Alert

Well this is worrisome. This morning my touareg started acting funny. When I was accelerating out of a turn it started bucking and losing power and the ESP light was flashing. As soon as I lifted off the gas and pressed it again it went away. It did this for the first 2-3 minutes of my commute and then never did it again.
I assume this is abs sensor related but don't know how to confirm. Any ideas?

# ? Aug 27, 2014 14:57

Sits on Pilster: Oct 12, 2004; I like to wear bras on my ass while I masturbate?

NitroSpazzz posted:

We ran into a bit of a problem with my Dad's 2010 Golf TDI Saturday and we aren't sure where to start looking. Both rear brakes are stuck on, not completely clamped down but dragging a lot.

He took the car out for a quick session at a driving school...think autocross style, 60mph speed limit, a couple slow laps then 1.5 laps at moderate pace. He noticed it felt strange and seemed to have more rolling resistance than normal, he assumed flat tire so limped it into the pits. When he came in both rear wheel's pads were visibly smoking. Driving around parking lot at low speed can hear them dragging and engine working very hard. Parking brake doesn't have any play...usually 2 clicks before resistance, now very tight. He was running with the traction/stability control on. OEM equivalent pads/rotors with ~20k miles on them, all pads and rotors look essentially new. Front brakes are fine. No warning lights or anything on. We bled some fluid from each rear caliper but that didn't help relieve pressure. Parking brake arm (on the caliper) is fully relaxed resting on stop. We were able to drive the car to the event (1.5hr) with no problems and he daily drives it, this is first time he's had trouble with the rear brakes.

We were able to drive it onto a trailer but the engine is working very hard. Won't have time to look at it until next week, if anyone has ideas it would be appreciated. Is it possible for overheated pads to swell?

Sounds a lot like a broken or stuck emergency brake cable. This is a known issue on mk4 models that may or may not carry over to later versions. Google it if you are mechanically inclined; otherwise, have a shop take a peek underneath to check. It will be obvious if that's the issue.

Edit: missed the sentence stating that the mechanism on the caliper is functioning. Honestly though I would still take a thourough look at the parking brake system as I can't think of what else it would be.

Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Aug 27, 2014

# ? Aug 27, 2014 18:45

movax: Aug 30, 2008

real_scud posted:

Wife finally told me that she's starting to hear noises when braking which means this weekend I get to replace the front/rear pads and turn the rotors on my B7 A4.

Anyone have any tips and tricks that I should watch out for? I've changed brakes before and have guides here and here, though I think I'm going to try the 1st option and try to just get the entire caliper off and replace them that way.

I'm also going to try renting a caliper tool from O'Reily to do the rears and using this as my guide.

None of them seem that difficult though since it's my first time doing them on the Audi I'm sure I'll be cursing some Audi-tech who overtightened something.

Did you go through this yet? The wear sensor is going off for my fronts, and I'm ready to do the job as well. Mechanic visit a few weeks ago they said it was just rotors that needed replacement, not the pads, but the pads are cheap enough that I'll just get some any way.

# ? Aug 27, 2014 18:48

real_scud: Sep 5, 2002; One of these days these elbows are gonna walk all over you

movax posted:

Did you go through this yet? The wear sensor is going off for my fronts, and I'm ready to do the job as well. Mechanic visit a few weeks ago they said it was just rotors that needed replacement, not the pads, but the pads are cheap enough that I'll just get some any way.

I tried and couldn't get it to happen. I had a cheaper jack that works for most things, but on the Audi it can't get the car high enough up in the air to put the jack-stands under the car.

Also I needed a breaker bar to even get the damned calipers off because using a regular wrench simply didn't work at all.

I've since borrowed a larger jack from a friend and am picking up a breaker-bar this weekend along with some PB Blaster to try to get the things loose.

# ? Aug 27, 2014 20:40

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

trouser chili posted:

Manual transmission? I wonder if the hill-assist has malfunctioned. Hill-assist prevents the car from rolling backwards while stopped. It's supposed to engage when the clutch is pushed in and 1st gear is selected, and it gives you a few seconds to get on the gas pedal and start feathering the clutch before disengaging the brakes. Try disconnecting the battery and see if the brakes release.

This is one of the first things I thought of when we ran into it. His car doesn't have hill assist but maybe there's another system.

Sits on Pilster posted:

Sounds a lot like a broken or stuck emergency brake cable. This is a known issue on mk4 models that may or may not carry over to later versions. Google it if you are mechanically inclined; otherwise, have a shop take a peek underneath to check. It will be obvious if that's the issue.

Will add that to the list of things to check out, being a northern car it wouldn't surprise me.

Thanks for the ideas, once we figure out what happened I'll update.

# ? Aug 27, 2014 22:08

manic mike: Oct 8, 2003; no bond too surly

Might as well crosspost this here.

I'm looking at a 2006 GTI with 64K miles. I loved the car on the test drive and I've always been a VW fan (first car was a 98 Jetta and my first job was at a VW dealership). Dealer wants $13,000. I feel like I could talk the price down a bit but it doesn't seem unreasonably high. The car is in great condition. The one owner did all the scheduled maintenance. I'm taking it to an independent mechanic on Friday.

What should I expect if I buy this car? What kind of problems are common for this year group from 70-100K miles? What can I do to mitigate these problems? Is it difficult to work on GTIs? I'm no stranger to working on cars. My dad and I completely rebuilt an old firebird. I'm not afraid to do some work. I can also afford some maintenance assuming it doesn't start pushing 4 figures per year.

Any comments from the experts?

# ? Aug 28, 2014 00:04

Uthor: Jul 9, 2006; Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

$13k seems a little high to me, honestly, but I haven't looked used car prices of late and don't know how much Nav adds.

Cam follower seems to be a common problem:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102858

The diverter valve is known to go bad.

I don't find the car too difficult to work on (I don't have a lot of experience working on cars in general) and the huge amount of enthusiast forums and aftermarket parts make it easy to find DIY info.

The DSG has a regular maintenance interval that costs about $400 at the dealer. Don't know what the DIY for that is...

I believe that's the year before they started putting AUX ports in the car, so good luck getting anything but CDs to play.

# ? Aug 28, 2014 00:46

Thumposaurus: Jul 24, 2007

manic mike posted:

Might as well crosspost this here.

I'm looking at a 2006 GTI with 64K miles. I loved the car on the test drive and I've always been a VW fan (first car was a 98 Jetta and my first job was at a VW dealership). Dealer wants $13,000. I feel like I could talk the price down a bit but it doesn't seem unreasonably high. The car is in great condition. The one owner did all the scheduled maintenance. I'm taking it to an independent mechanic on Friday.

What should I expect if I buy this car? What kind of problems are common for this year group from 70-100K miles? What can I do to mitigate these problems? Is it difficult to work on GTIs? I'm no stranger to working on cars. My dad and I completely rebuilt an old firebird. I'm not afraid to do some work. I can also afford some maintenance assuming it doesn't start pushing 4 figures per year.

Any comments from the experts?

I paid less than that for an '07 almost 4 years ago 13k is pretty high.
Blue book is around 9k I think last I checked.

# ? Aug 28, 2014 00:52

manic mike: Oct 8, 2003; no bond too surly

Uthor posted:

$13k seems a little high to me, honestly, but I haven't looked used car prices of late and don't know how much Nav adds.

Cam follower seems to be a common problem:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102858

The diverter valve is known to go bad.

I don't find the car too difficult to work on (I don't have a lot of experience working on cars in general) and the huge amount of enthusiast forums and aftermarket parts make it easy to find DIY info.

The DSG has a regular maintenance interval that costs about $400 at the dealer. Don't know what the DIY for that is...

I believe that's the year before they started putting AUX ports in the car, so good luck getting anything but CDs to play.

Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't consider myself nearly competent enough to tackle regular maintenance on a DSG transmission. But I'm willing to try other things.

The previous owner installed an iphone connection. Old stereos are not a deal breaker for me. They can be easily replaced. Bluetooth is something I was considering for my current truck.

Thumposaurus posted:

I paid less than that for an '07 almost 4 years ago 13k is pretty high.
Blue book is around 9k I think last I checked.

Blue book is telling me fair price is $11,000-$13,500. Probably due to the lower than average mileage. Similar cars on autotrader appear to be listed for around $11,000. Unless there is something I'm not considering, the price of $13,000 seems like a typical high ball offer. Maybe if I paid anything over 11K I would be overpaying?

# ? Aug 28, 2014 01:29

AlternateAccount: Apr 25, 2005; FYGM

Welp, I have a 2012 Jetta TDI getting transferred in and I will pick it up likely the week after next. Word is that it's in pretty good shape, other than the unpredictable HPFP, are there any other components that will give me some indicator that they're going to grenade the engine and cost me thousands?

# ? Aug 28, 2014 21:06

Literally Lewis Hamilton: Feb 22, 2005

What part of the country? Read up on the iced over intercooler issues if its a cold climate.

# ? Aug 29, 2014 01:21

AlternateAccount: Apr 25, 2005; FYGM

Bovril Delight posted:

What part of the country? Read up on the iced over intercooler issues if its a cold climate.

Midwest. Is there something to check preemptively? It sounds like the official fix doesn't work.
Sounds like there's not much to be done???

# ? Aug 29, 2014 02:54

two_beer_bishes: Jun 27, 2004

AlternateAccount posted:

Midwest. Is there something to check preemptively? It sounds like the official fix doesn't work.
Sounds like there's not much to be done???

Nothing you can do about the HPFP, when it goes it goes with no warning. The intercooler icing you can check up on by taking the lower hose off and draining it once in a while. We picked up our 2011 Golf TDI in February and I checked for water on the 1st of each month for the first 4 months and there was only a tiny bit the first time I checked and no noticeable amount since then so I don't check nearly as often now.

VW has been paying for the HPFP repairs in the US even for cars well out of warranty. It's not an official policy but the vast majority of people have been getting taken care of.

two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Aug 29, 2014

# ? Aug 29, 2014 03:10

AlternateAccount: Apr 25, 2005; FYGM

Ok good deal. Thank you. I'll do that.

# ? Aug 29, 2014 03:21

trouser chili: Mar 27, 2002; Unnngggggghhhhh

Speaking of HPFP and fuel quality in the USA. My local dealer recently told me to start using Howes diesel fuel additive, or in a pinch any other non-alcohol diesel fuel system treatment. This was after complaining about poor running characteristics while on a trip in MN, which incidentally has recently switched to mandatory 15-20% biodiesel. Of course this fact wasn't indicated on the pumps, so I had no loving clue I was putting that poo poo into the tank. In fact I even drove away from two pump that indicated 10% bio, thinking I was doing the right thing.

Unfortunately the dealer did not put this suggestion in writing. So I've got no clue what to do. I'm thinking if the additives gently caress the soot trap that's a whole lot better than lovely fuel lubricity loving the HPFP.

# ? Aug 29, 2014 15:51

420Chris: Jan 1, 2005; love weed.

Not really since vw will pay to fix your fuel system meanwhile you will be out 3 grand for a bad particulate filter. The downside of the TDI. Every one of them needs a DPF around 80-120k miles.

# ? Aug 29, 2014 16:22

AlternateAccount: Apr 25, 2005; FYGM

trouser chili posted:

Unfortunately the dealer did not put this suggestion in writing. So I've got no clue what to do. I'm thinking if the additives gently caress the soot trap that's a whole lot better than lovely fuel lubricity loving the HPFP.

I think when I was doing some research yesterday that all of the additives I saw specifically mentioned that they wouldn't gently caress up the DPF.

# ? Aug 29, 2014 17:52

veedubfreak: Apr 2, 2005; by Smythe

420Chris posted:

Not really since vw will pay to fix your fuel system meanwhile you will be out 3 grand for a bad particulate filter. The downside of the TDI. Every one of them needs a DPF around 80-120k miles.

That's only if you baby them and don't give them a proper italian tune when the car does a regen. If the car starts to stumble and idle around 1100 rpms, that is when you drive it like you stole it. As to the hpfp issues, at least 50% of the failures were attributed to morons putting gas in their cars. Just avoid lovely stations with questionable tanks.

# ? Aug 29, 2014 18:36

tolerabletariff: Jul 3, 2009; Do you think I'm spooky?

Does anyone know if the windows on late model Audis use metallic film for tinting? Use of these in MBs/BMWs apparently interfere with radar detectors. Has anyone had issues with detectors in Audi/VWs.?

# ? Aug 30, 2014 21:56

movax: Aug 30, 2008

Detector works great in my 06 A4, Escort 9500ix.

# ? Aug 31, 2014 22:51

Kashwashwa: Jul 11, 2006; You'll do fine no matter what. That's my motto.

I need to replace my door harness, but can't remove lock cover to get door skin off.

I've done it a couple of times before so I know how to do it, but for reference I'm talking about the thing in step 3 of this DIY:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2984471

The problem is that the torx screw in the door that you access through the little hole keeps spinning and spinning without releasing whatever it has to, to get the lock cover out.

I can tighten the screw back up, but at no point does it release the lock cover as I try to loosen the torx screw in the door.

Any ideas??

# ? Sep 1, 2014 18:48

track day bro!: Feb 17, 2005; #essereFerrari; Grimey Drawer

How hard is it to do the lower control arm bushes on a mkiv golf? Is it worth me doing the balljoints and swaybar endlinks while im there?

Most guides show you how to do the bigger rear bush but how hard is it to replace the smaller one? I've seen that its fairly common to use the audi tt bushing instead, but is it worth it? Should I just get the whole lca from lemforder with the std bushings instead of having to burn out the old ones etc.

# ? Sep 2, 2014 10:15

Alighieri: Dec 10, 2005

Just got my 06 GLI back from the repair shop for the 100k miles maintenance as well as a complete intake cleaning after it was found to be full of buildup. It pulls a lot better now and seems to have more power due to cleaning the intake manifold and valves. Is there any recommended fuel additive that would help prevent the build up? I only put premium in as recommended by VW so not sure what other steps can be taken to prevent the build up.

Also the timing belt will need to be replaced soon. Was quoted about $800 for that from the shop I go to, is that about correct to what others have seen pricing wise?

# ? Sep 2, 2014 15:35

Brain Issues: Dec 16, 2004; lol

tolerabletariff posted:

Does anyone know if the windows on late model Audis use metallic film for tinting? Use of these in MBs/BMWs apparently interfere with radar detectors. Has anyone had issues with detectors in Audi/VWs.?

They do not use metallic tint.

# ? Sep 2, 2014 23:04

NitroSpazzz: Dec 9, 2006; You don't need style when you've got strength!

NitroSpazzz posted:

Stuck rear brakes on 2010 Golf TDI

Dad had some time to look at the rear brakes this morning. He removed the calipers then used the piston rotate tool to push the pistons back in and now everything is working as it should. He thinks the self-adjusting parking brake got messed up due to heat and the stability control going nuts. Annoying but a cheap and easy fix so he's happy.

# ? Sep 2, 2014 23:07

Blue On Blue: Nov 14, 2012

So all things being equal (paint, body, mechanicals)

Which would be the better buy:

1)2010 S4 , with 35,000km

2)2011 A4 Premium S-Line, also with 35,000km

They're priced pretty much the same, I'm just not sure what if any differences Audi made between 2010-2011, I think the major restyling happened in 2009, and then again in 2012 ?

# ? Sep 4, 2014 06:15

the milk machine: Jul 23, 2002; lick my keys

I have a 2010 S4 and I adore it. There's a big power difference between those cars though, and I would think a decent difference in price. Shouldn't those drive your decision instead of styling changes?

And yeah, the facelift to the B8 was for 2012+ models.

# ? Sep 4, 2014 16:54

Blue On Blue: Nov 14, 2012

the milk machine posted:

I have a 2010 S4 and I adore it. There's a big power difference between those cars though, and I would think a decent difference in price. Shouldn't those drive your decision instead of styling changes?

And yeah, the facelift to the B8 was for 2012+ models.

Nope as I said, they're both priced the same +/- a few thousand

# ? Sep 4, 2014 23:11

OBAMNA PHONE: Aug 7, 2002

How is plus or minus a few thousand = priced the same?

# ? Sep 4, 2014 23:50

Motronic: Nov 6, 2009

BraveUlysses posted:

How is plus or minus a few thousand = priced the same?

When you're talking about $40-50k cars it's less than the sales tax. I understand how a few thousand dollars is far from chump change, but in a transaction where it is 2-3% then yes.....it's basically priced the same because you can overcome that based on dealership shopping or negotiation or even more easily by optioning.

# ? Sep 5, 2014 01:09

the milk machine: Jul 23, 2002; lick my keys

Sappo569 posted:

Nope as I said, they're both priced the same +/- a few thousand

Is the S4 just not optioned out then? That's the only way I can figure that makes any sense.

Edit: or you live in a country that taxes horsepower or displacement or something? Everything being equal I don't see a reason not to get the S4...

the milk machine fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Sep 5, 2014

# ? Sep 5, 2014 01:46

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# ? May 28, 2024 11:32

movax: Aug 30, 2008

I've got a weird-rear end question: I swear I used to have a compass on my rear view mirror before I took my car in for service (where they re-installed it after it was damaged). It's a 2006 A4, and it's the auto-dimming model; does anyone else have the behind-the-glass style red compass display? I was told the part # is 8R0-857-511-A-1YE.

e: Found it -- had to dig up an owners manual on Google because my replacement hasn't come in yet. :downs:

movax fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 5, 2014

# ? Sep 5, 2014 18:02

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > VW/Audi Exorcism Thread

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