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ReelBigLizard posted:The 690 is pretty simple. Get rid of your O2 sensor and follow this guide: Ok, I shouldve been more clear in my last post, but I'm a dummy. I've already done everything in that link, including the F-L map. Or at least as close as I could, the 690SM has a simpler map than the later LC4 based bikes. That thread recommends 4% for everything and I'm up at 6% for everything. My O2 sensor is disabled, but only in the map I'm currently running. I haven't physically disabled it by removing it or unplugging it. Should I bother doing that? I've also got the seconardy air intake unchecked on my current map. I've got the KTM orange socket that the original owner told me was a +2 in the rear. Any other ideas why I'm getting such a big drop in power when the bike warms up? I'll probably do the green wire mod tonight, but that shouldnt have any affect relative to temperature.
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Aug 14, 2014 00:16
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If you've done all that and still aren't happy, it sounds like it's dyno time.
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Aug 14, 2014 00:21
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Maybe its in your head, maybe you tuned out your midrange on accident. Clutchpuck is right. You've probably backyard'ed this about as far as you can. Get a dyno sheet, see what the line looks like, and approach as needed.
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Aug 14, 2014 01:21
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Ya fair enough. I reluctant to think it's all in my head as its quite a noticeable difference, but if I've done all there is to be done I guess I'll hit the dyno.
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Aug 14, 2014 01:56
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If you're really worried, I'll trade you my DRZ. 
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Aug 14, 2014 02:53
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I get all worried about whether or not the jetting on the DRZ is totally perfect then I grab second really hard and stop caring most of the time.
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Aug 17, 2014 17:47
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Yerok posted:I get all worried about whether or not the jetting on the DRZ is totally perfect then I grab second really hard and stop caring most of the time. I'm wondering if mine is the source of my poor MPG. I'm getting an FCR39 for $200, so I guess once I install that I'll know it's jetted right.
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Aug 17, 2014 17:51
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Yerok posted:I get all worried about whether or not the jetting on the DRZ is totally perfect then I grab second really hard and stop caring most of the time. I do that at low RPMs and just bog the poo poo out of the engine. I'm trying to adjust the accelerator pump without taking the carb off the bike via trial and error right now. It's not working so far.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:31
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Marxalot posted:I do that at low RPMs and just bog the poo poo out of the engine. Take it off by removing the subframe bolt, makes it super easy. Time it by eye so the squirt just barely misses bottom of the slide and safety wire/o-ring the linkage. You will go crazy trying to do it by butt dyno.
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Aug 17, 2014 21:39
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What is the most narrow set of handlebars for the drz? The opening for my parking space is only about 30" wide, with maze of walls and a staircase immediately inside. Right now I can just barely back a ninja 250 in with the stock clip ons. I've tried to back a WR250 in with no luck, and that was with the help of a friend so I can only imagine how doing it solo would go. Thoughts?
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Aug 17, 2014 22:08
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Yerok posted:Take it off by removing the subframe bolt, makes it super easy. Time it by eye so the squirt just barely misses bottom of the slide and safety wire/o-ring the linkage. You will go crazy trying to do it by butt dyno. I just tried that. The nut holding the bolt in just bent like melted butter. I could probably get it off of there with some mild hammering and PBblaster, but then I wont be able to reuse it, and I'll have to wait a week for a new one to arrive from fastenal to put the bike back together. If the butt dyno method doesn't work (the setting it was on when I got it was drat close) then I'll just have to take the bastard off and see what I can do from there. e: It doesn't work. Welp. This is going to be a pain in the dick, isn't it? Marxalot fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 22:29
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hot sauce posted:What is the most narrow set of handlebars for the drz? The opening for my parking space is only about 30" wide, with maze of walls and a staircase immediately inside. Right now I can just barely back a ninja 250 in with the stock clip ons. I've tried to back a WR250 in with no luck, and that was with the help of a friend so I can only imagine how doing it solo would go. Thoughts? Cut down a set of bars for the width you need? Most bars have cut lines on each side. Pick the right size bar (7/8" or 1 1/8") and whatever bend you want then have at it. Be sure to pickup a new set of grips too.
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Aug 17, 2014 23:39
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hot sauce posted:What is the most narrow set of handlebars for the drz? The opening for my parking space is only about 30" wide, with maze of walls and a staircase immediately inside. Right now I can just barely back a ninja 250 in with the stock clip ons. I've tried to back a WR250 in with no luck, and that was with the help of a friend so I can only imagine how doing it solo would go. Thoughts? Mini bend bars. Edit: Specs here: http://www.renthal.com/shop/mx-products/handlebars/fatbar
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Aug 17, 2014 23:43
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Z3n posted:Mini bend bars. This should work for sure. Time to start trolling CL for sumos again...
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Aug 18, 2014 00:17
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Marxalot posted:I just tried that. The nut holding the bolt in just bent like melted butter. I could probably get it off of there with some mild hammering and PBblaster, but then I wont be able to reuse it, and I'll have to wait a week for a new one to arrive from fastenal to put the bike back together. I'm confused. So your subframe bolt is roached or what? Edit: I'm stupid. So you rounded the nut? Order your replacement bolt now and do it when it shows up. You'll just be chasing your tail unless you can see what the squirt's doing. Yerok fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Aug 18, 2014 |
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Aug 18, 2014 05:12
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Those of you with contiattack sm tires... Make sure to check your fronts and see if they are affected by this recall http://www.asphaltandrubber.com/recall/continental-tire-recall/
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Aug 20, 2014 21:45
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I need to stop breaking traffic laws and riding aggressively, but god dammit Supermotos make it so easy.  Found a great shortcut from my house into downtown the other day. I only have to ride over a pedestrian footbridge, down about 200 yards of bikepath, then through a construction site and up a sweet little kicker into a parking lot. 
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Sep 2, 2014 00:04
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I have a rush hour dodger shortcut that involves 4 downtown back yards, a 6 foot ledge to gravel, some really lovely paved parking lot, and a service alley. It is wonderful.
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Sep 3, 2014 21:20
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So I have an offer for: 1 set of DRZ-S wheels with dirt tires (condition unknown), with sprocket and rotors 1 almost-new set of Distanzias, mounted to my current wheels 1 FCR-39MX Carb 1 New Clutch Pack 1 Cargo Rack w/side-mounted toolkit for $1100. For another $70 I can get an SM rotor on the S wheels so I don't have to gently caress with my caliper when I want to swap. This seems like a good deal to me. Am I dumb not to take it?
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Sep 5, 2014 16:01
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Is this from a shop or something offering labor on the carb swap and clutch and everything?
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Sep 5, 2014 19:04
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Just from a buddy. I'd be doing the work myself other than mounting the Distanzias.
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Sep 5, 2014 19:12
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I'd think you could find dirt wheels from someone that converted an S for under 500 for sure. Clutch kits are sub 100. FCR's seem pretty variable - I'd think you could find one for 300 or less pretty easy but ThumperTalk classifieds change their format and it seems to be a lot less used now than it used to be IMO. It used to be the place to go for FCR's and DRZ farkles. Not sure about the cargo rack but I'd expect 100 bucks or less on that if it's just the generic DRZ one. Distanzias are probably what - 250 a set + mounting? I'm not current on their prices. I guess that's not terrible. Anyone else wanna weigh in? I think you should do the rotor if it matches the SM rotor size (310mm IIRC?) so that you don't have to gently caress with a relocator bracket or something. e: Reminder though that with Distanzias on now it'll probably be fine in the dirt. If you're not going to be doing a ton of offroad I'd just skip it personally. I rode a dirt day around a little dinky track on Pilot Powers and didn't have any trouble. Distanzias would probably be just fine if you don't put yourself in a situation where you need max traction. double e: It looks like from the pics you posted in this thread you've only ever had distanzias on there. Please please please put some pilot powers or something on there. It's loving unreal how fun sportbike tires are on DRZ's. My first DRZ had distanzias on there and it felt like both wheels had cinder blocks tied to them. Swapping them out made it a brand new bike. gently caress. I want a supermoto again
Baller Witness Bro fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Sep 5, 2014 |
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Sep 5, 2014 19:32
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Baller Witness Bro posted:I'd think you could find dirt wheels from someone that converted an S for under 500 for sure. Clutch kits are sub 100. FCR's seem pretty variable - I'd think you could find one for 300 or less pretty easy but ThumperTalk classifieds change their format and it seems to be a lot less used now than it used to be IMO. It used to be the place to go for FCR's and DRZ farkles. Well, I wanted to go to the S wheels for the winter, as well as riding the CO Backcountry Discovery Trail next year. I like the Distanzias as a "Does everything pretty okay" solution, but wouldn't mind trying some PP's. You should get another Supermoto. They are the bestestest.
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Sep 5, 2014 21:08
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Akion posted:Well, I wanted to go to the S wheels for the winter, as well as riding the CO Backcountry Discovery Trail next year. I like the Distanzias as a "Does everything pretty okay" solution, but wouldn't mind trying some PP's. Seconding the "get some drat pilot powers" thing. Baller Witness Bro posted:gently caress. I want a supermoto again Go convert a 2014 KTM 690 enduro and sell it to me in 2017. You know you want one 
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Sep 5, 2014 21:48
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I wish. Some rear end in a top hat on a local forum got the deal of a lifetime on a 690 and rode it for like 5 minutes before flipping it for what I recall to be multiple thousands of profit. loving bastard. I think this next time around I want to try out a Husky or a converted WR. I've been quite tame with my 2 DRZ's. I'm ready for more wheelies and maintenance.
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Sep 5, 2014 23:00
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I paid $650 for S wheels, two sets of fresh knobbies, massive rear sprocket, and extra long roller chain to make it work with the stock countershaft sprocket. The gearing is loving hilarious.
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Sep 6, 2014 18:12
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The following is for sale locally. It is killing me that I can not afford it this season. "2005 Yamaha yz450f Street Legal Supermoto Considering the sale of my supermoto. this bike is a loving blast to ride. Full street and track set up. I'll post up the details tonight. Street Legal Yamaha YZF 450R Supermoto This bike was built by Yamaha Factory Racing in California for Chad Reed to ride in the 2006 ESPN X-Games. He rode it to a second place finish at the X-Games. Ive had this bike for 5 years and I havent been using it as much as Id like so I am selling it for someone else to enjoy. This bike is a monster on the track and on the street. This bike is street legal and registered and insured in Alberta. Im selling it as a full race and street set up. With all my spares and parts. Asking $7000 Chassis and Suspension - Frame OEM - Subframe OEM - Swing arm - OEM - Cluth lever - GYTR - Brake lever GYTR - Bar PRO TAPER - Triple Clamps GYTR Custom aluminum billet supermoto offset - Bar clamps GYTR titanium - Grips Sunline - Brake pedal Sunline billet - Shifter Sunline - Frame Guards Carbon Fiber - Hardware GYTR titanium - Plastic CYCRA - Seat SDG custom Chad Reed Spec Street parts - Vancouver Supermoto Wiring - Zeta LED hand guards with signals - Rear turn siganals - Battery - Trail tech Vapour - Acerbis LED headlights Engine - Piston Wiesco - Transmission Yamaha WRF-450 5 Speed retro fit - Filter Filtron - Carb GYTR modified - Cams- Hot Cams - Head GYTR modified - Clutch STR Slipper - Radiator - GYTR supermoto oversize - Exhaust WHITE BROS titanium header and Carbon Fiber Can Wheels/Brakes - Race Rims - Talon hubs excel rim 3.25x17/5.0x17 with Dunlop slicks - Street rims Excel rims with Michelins - Master Cylinder Oversize with White Bros Cap - Moto Master Front and Rear Rotors - Front Caliper Brembo 4 piston - Hoses Galfer - Supermoto engineering Sliders Spares - 2 Tomahawk rear slicks - 1 Rain Rear - 1 Tomahawk Front slick - Spare graphics - Number plate - 2 Filtron Filters - Front/rear sprocket - Wiesco Piston - Stainless Oil filter - Yamaha oil filters - 2 Hand guards - Levers - Oil pressure sensor - Turn signals - Sliders - Moose Stator - Brake relocate Bracket      How does one go about getting a yz450f street legal? By that I mean, aren't all YZ's built with a "Off-Road Only" MSO? Don't all VIN's show up in every DMV (or equivalent) as "You can't register this for street use." Also, aren't the engines in the YZ's not exactly ideal for street use? Basically - why can't I find one of the many many sub $4k FI YZ's next spring and build my own?
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Sep 6, 2014 21:41
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McTinkerson posted:How does one go about getting a yz450f street legal? By that I mean, aren't all YZ's built with a "Off-Road Only" MSO? Don't all VIN's show up in every DMV (or equivalent) as "You can't register this for street use." http://www.motosport.com/blog/how-to-make-a-dirt-bike-street-legal The particulars will vary from state to state. That listing says Alberta, so I'm assuming you're somewhere in the great northern wastes so I have no idea how it works in Canuckistan, but for a lot of US states, you have to add lights, signals, a horn, DOT-approved tires, mirrors, and go to the DMV and fill out some paperwork and pay a fee.
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Sep 6, 2014 22:08
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McTinkerson posted:
Here in Colorado all it takes is: -Headlight -Tail Light -Mirror -Horn and about $50 to the State Patrol for an inspection.
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Sep 6, 2014 22:10
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McTinkerson posted:Also, aren't the engines in the YZ's not exactly ideal for street use? It's going to have considerably shorter maintenance intervals than a bike built for the street, yes.
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Sep 7, 2014 01:12
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Guy on a Hypermotard waved me by in the twisties yesterday. I can't decide how this makes me feel.
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Sep 8, 2014 21:21
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It's time to replace my clutch and brake levers on the DRZ (shitloads of up&down play). Is there any reason not to just go with the stock OEM levers? Also, I was talking to a dude the other day that said something about how he just put gsxr levers on his. Is that a thing, or is he just a weird dude with too many spare parts?
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Sep 12, 2014 05:58
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Certain year gsxr levers would probably move over, but anything g recent will have a radial master with completely different lever designs. In other words, I wouldn't count on it
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Sep 13, 2014 01:42
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The Zeta/ASV foldups are kinda cool. There are also the DRC levers in OEM style but shorter.
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Sep 13, 2014 01:55
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Yerok posted:The Zeta/ASV foldups are kinda cool. There are also the DRC levers in OEM style but shorter. I didn't know the DRC levers existed, but the OEM levers are about a half inch too long with my handguards so these sound absolutely perfect. I did think about buying the ASV levers, but it would be kind of a waste to throw $120 in (sweet looking) pivot levers when I have handguards. Also, the drat thing just shed the left passenger peg. I don't even know how this loving bike does it. e: I've put 9k out of the 15kmi on this thing and I've only lost the bar end mount for a handguard, 2-3 fairing bolts, a bolt to the chain guard (that's never happening again), the head of a bolt that attaches the heat shield to the exhaust, 2 little bolts that hold the cap on the muffler, a passenger peg, and 1 cracked license plate due to vibration. Am I doing well? Marxalot fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Sep 15, 2014 |
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Sep 15, 2014 12:39
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You've got me beat. I've only lost a license plate bolt, two of the bolts that hold the fender on, one of the bolts for the fairings around the radiator, and one of the chain guard bolts (which I lost 30km out of town and didn't notice till I got fuel at the next servo, thankfully a zip-tie held until I could replace the bolt). I'm loctiting everything I have to replace now since I never seem to notice every loose bolt when doing pre/post-ride inspections.
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Sep 15, 2014 14:34
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That's nothing, on Sunday I lost the front brake. Because I'm an idiot and forgot to tighten the bolts beyond finger tight when I put the front wheel back on.
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Sep 15, 2014 15:23
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My drz is a bastard i guess, hasn't lost anything but the license plate. I can totally see the passenger peg happening though if the bracket stayed on, check out the design of those stupid loving things (ball/detent)
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Sep 15, 2014 21:50
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I lost a chain guard today. Also lost a bolt for one of the side panels. Luckily it was the one right under my leg so it didn't fall off until I got off the bike.
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Sep 15, 2014 22:26
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Mine sucked the factory mudguard/reflector holder/license plate holder/tail light through the rear wheel. That was it though.
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Sep 16, 2014 15:16
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