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And because they're so cheap, remember to buy a few, just in case you lose one or it spoils somehow.
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Sep 7, 2014 20:35
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alkanphel posted:And because they're so cheap, remember to buy a few, just in case you lose one or it spoils somehow. Seconding this, once I was shooting in an abandoned Hotel and lost my cable. Couldn't find it anymore in the debris. Luckily I had another (shorter) one. You may want to hunt in the used/bargain bin of some camera stores for even cheaper deals on them. At least recently they got sold by the boatload because digital cameras don't usually have a threaded shutter release. So, they threw them all out in the bargain bin.
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Sep 8, 2014 01:26
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Finally got the spacers to fit my red 29 filter in the filter bracket. Not sure if I'm a fan of the insane contrast or I need to use a different developing technique to keep the contrast in check..? This was R09 at 1:50 for 10 mins on foma 200 8x10. Also getting pissy at the scratching of the negs making me have to do annoying crops. Had some nicer foreground/sky composition in this one which I had to get rid of but oh well  
Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Sep 8, 2014 |
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Sep 8, 2014 04:11
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Sludge Tank posted:Finally got the spacers to fit my red 29 filter in the filter bracket. Not sure if I'm a fan of the insane contrast or I need to use a different developing technique to keep the contrast in check..? Why are you using a deep red filter if you don't like insane contrast? Buy a yellow and/or orange filter you goddamn weirdo.
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Sep 8, 2014 04:18
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I've been using #25 red religiously and was wondering how #29 would look. I was hoping for some kind of infra-red effect or something, but wondering if it would look better on a film with better latitude? Oh well, was worth an experiment anyway
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Sep 8, 2014 04:24
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I'm digging that insane contrast, I think one extreme or the other suits the Australian landscape well
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Sep 8, 2014 05:05
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Santa is strapped posted:How long was the exposure? Or was it a big rear end TV (I'm imagining a small CRT TV from the 80s) It was actually a large TV (~40"?) that was hooked up to an old analog box without a signal. 1m15sec exposure at f/11ish I think on Portra 400.
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Sep 8, 2014 05:08
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Any idea what's going on with the splotchiness in the sky? Is that from the ANR glass/scanning? 
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Sep 8, 2014 06:56
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Spedman posted:I'm digging that insane contrast, I think one extreme or the other suits the Australian landscape well Ditto. I really dig these shots.
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Sep 8, 2014 07:12
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Sludge Tank posted:Any idea what's going on with the splotchiness in the sky? Is that from the ANR glass/scanning? Looks like processing/emulsion issues to me. Try a different developer.
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Sep 8, 2014 16:44
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Maybe the rodinol has finally expired. Bugger.
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Sep 8, 2014 22:29
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 Marsha by dorkasaurus_rex, on FlickrGot together with a makeup artist and a model.
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Sep 8, 2014 22:38
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Sludge Tank posted:Maybe the rodinol has finally expired. Bugger. The Rodinal clones allegedly don't have quite the staying power of the original, but I've yet to have a bottle of either go bad. The newer stuff does have a slight tendency to go "crunchy" and weaken a little as some of the solution crystallizes out, but I've been able to fix that by letting the bottle sit with a loose cap in a small tank of hot (tea-temperature) water for a while. What film stock were you using? I've had occasional issues with tabular-grained films when my Rodinal working solutions weren't well-mixed before developing.
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Sep 9, 2014 00:45
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Yond Cassius posted:The Rodinal clones allegedly don't have quite the staying power of the original, but I've yet to have a bottle of either go bad. The newer stuff does have a slight tendency to go "crunchy" and weaken a little as some of the solution crystallizes out, but I've been able to fix that by letting the bottle sit with a loose cap in a small tank of hot (tea-temperature) water for a while. I'm using fomapan 200, shot and developed at box speed. The R09 is quite "crystalised" as you say. Could be my water (tankwater) as well... Could it be that my stop/fix weren't at the right temperatures also? I've never been too pedantic about stop/fix temperatures before I warm them up with my developer and then just sit them on the bench whilst I'm developing.
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Sep 9, 2014 00:57
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Sludge Tank posted:I'm using fomapan 200, shot and developed at box speed. The R09 is quite "crystalised" as you say. Could be my water (tankwater) as well... Could it be that my stop/fix weren't at the right temperatures also? I've never been too pedantic about stop/fix temperatures before I warm them up with my developer and then just sit them on the bench whilst I'm developing. Stop and fix are relatively temperature-insensitive. You should be fine. Try squeezing the bottle a few times to break up the crystals, (maybe) give it a shake or two, and put it in a jar of hot water for a while. See what it does next time; it should be fine. I personally let it rest for a day if I give it a good shake, to let any dissolved air come back out, but that's probably superstition.
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Sep 9, 2014 03:04
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Speaking of the shutter release, does anyone know what thread it is? I know it's a taper thread but I need to get a nut that might work and silver solder it onto the release bar on my mamiya c33 so I can use a release with it.
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Sep 9, 2014 13:08
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So my dad bought a speed graphic, no film holders. Any particular one he should get? Also what kind of tank do use for development for 4x5 film?
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Sep 10, 2014 02:59
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Is Pentaxs guy still the go-to for fixing P67s? Mine suddenly has a battery issue where it's constantly sucking power whenever the battery is installed.
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Sep 11, 2014 05:26
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The aperture knob on my Mamiya 55mm has become really loose to the point that when I hit the shutter release it jostles the aperture knob back to 4.5. It was never super tight to begin with and it never clicked each time I changed the aperture like it does on my 80mm. Is this common or is it probably broken? I haven't developed any photos since this occurred so I haven't been able to see how they turn out exactly.
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Sep 12, 2014 20:00
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I decided I want to shoot large format more regularly, and I want to be able to reliably process the film myself and not need a darkroom to do it (as I just don't have a the space at home). So upon looking around and seeing what other nerds have done, I picked film hangers as the best option, in a custom build daylight tank. Basically you make a light-tight box the hangers hang in, that you pour chemicals in and out of. I had used acrylic to make various wet place bits and piece so I decided to go with it again, easy to cut, easy to glue and make water tight. So my design is pretty simple, it takes four hangers, which means either 4 8x10 sheets at once, or 16 4x5s, and has a port for pouring in chemicals and another for letting air flow in/out of the tank to keep the chemical flow fast. The sides of the   With both the main front and back panel attached showing the four hangers inside, there are baffles where the inlet/outlet ports are to make sure there are no light leaks onto the film, and also hold up the hangers in the tank.   Still need to make the lid, put the base on and it should be good to go baring any leaks.
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Sep 14, 2014 08:32
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That's badass and makes me feel especially lazy not taking the time to drop off rolls to be developed.
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Sep 14, 2014 12:52
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Hahah that is awesome.
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Sep 14, 2014 16:45
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Took out my old lubitel 2 for a spin again. All my tape didnt prevent plenty of light leaks. Shot with some Lomo 100 film which was the cheapest I could find. Lubitel 2 in Seoul by Nestor's Blurrylife, on Flickr Lubitel 2 in Seoul by Nestor's Blurrylife, on Flickr
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Sep 15, 2014 08:25
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So I dropped by a local shop to check their developing prices and ended up buying $30 of 120 film they had in their freezer, including some provia and a couple rolls of Ektachrome. I eagerly look forward to running it through my bronica and making a drat fool of myself. Are app light meters considered ballpark accurate or should I just put the gun in my mouth now and track down a proper light meter to save myself the drama? It would delay picking up a scanner but I can live without for another month or two.
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Sep 16, 2014 04:53
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The "Light Meter" app on my iPhone seems to be pretty accurate. It hasn't let me down yet.
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Sep 16, 2014 18:57
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Got my first roll of film back from my RB67 so I can now finally post pictures in this thread! Moonlit RoadThe last four shots all came out blank unfortunately. Looking through the back of the camera pointed at a light the shutter seems to be firing ok so I don't know what, of the many potential things, went wrong. crap nerd fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Sep 19, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 02:23
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Did you have the mirror lock up on? The interlocks that normally keep you from doing silly things go out the window once the MLU is on. I've had rolls where I forgot that I had it on, and it'll sound like it's going and let you cock and advance, but it never fires the shutter and you wind up with a partially blank roll. If you're using a Sekor, Sekor NB, or Sekor C lens, it's a switch you might have hit by mistake. On Sekor K/L lenses you can't turn it on without a cable release screwed into the MLU thread. Gargonovitch fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 03:12
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Yeah, that sounds about right. At least it's just my stupidity and not a problem with the camera.
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Sep 18, 2014 10:07
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TheJeffers posted:That's how bulb mode works on the Mamiya TLRs, yeah. My only suggestion I've found with a couple of the different ebay shitter release cables is to get some superglue and glue the little thumb cap to the cable (it's threaded), and the finger grip thingy as well on the thread because theyre forever coming loose. i've almost lost a couple of thumb cap thingies as they've come off in my bag or when theyre being used. Sludge Tank fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 10:11
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for one, and you're set for life.
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Thinking about stepping up to large format from medium format. I'm trying to find a balance between portability and movements, and the Gowland Pocket View seems to stand out. Thoughts on this kit?quote:GOWLAND POCKET VIEW 4x5 camera - compact with fuji 150mm lens+ more - $500
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Sep 20, 2014 20:18
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The price doesn't seem too bad, I think Pompous Rhombus was/is selling one so he'll have some good first hand advice.
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Sep 20, 2014 22:13
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Thinking about stepping up to large format from medium format. I'm trying to find a balance between portability and movements, and the Gowland Pocket View seems to stand out. Thoughts on this kit? Spedman posted:The price doesn't seem too bad, I think Pompous Rhombus was/is selling one so he'll have some good first hand advice. Yeah, I sold it a couple months ago, not too long before I left Japan. It's a great "little" camera and that's not a bad price. You do give up geared movements, but for the cost, size and weight you really cannot beat a Gowland. Having to carry around a bunch of film holders can negate the weight savings though: Grafmatics will help with that somewhat, or if you can track down some Mido holders (I used to have a bunch but sold or gave them away), that would give you pretty much the final word in portable 4x5.
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Sep 20, 2014 22:52
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I've had rolls from my RZ67 sitting in my refrigerator since the spring, and it's only now that I've sent them out for development. I love the 65mm focal length on 6x7.  Untitled by TheJeffers, on Flickr  White River Boulevard (Power) by TheJeffers, on Flickr
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Sep 21, 2014 05:35
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 img053 by Stingray of Doom, on FlickrGoing through my old Mamiya negatives...
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Sep 22, 2014 06:25
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 French Road by alkanphel, on Flickr
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Sep 22, 2014 08:33
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Been a while. Got a new job, haven't been shooting as much. Went to the huge climate march this weekend.  People's Climate March by spikemccue, on Flickr  People's Climate March by spikemccue, on Flickr  Moment of silence - People's Climate March by spikemccue, on Flickr  People's Climate March by spikemccue, on Flickr I've got some expired tmax 100 coming too, lab just hadn't finished it today.
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Sep 23, 2014 04:31
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The last one looks fine but the skin tones in the first three, especially the second one, look a bit off.
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Sep 23, 2014 10:10
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I think the temp on those shots is a little on the cool side. Speaking of temperature  there is a new Kickstarter trying to get a medium format production setup for tungsten balanced 800ISO cine film (c41):https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cinestill/cinestill-medium-format-film
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Sep 23, 2014 11:39
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I don't get this obsession with T balanced film at all. In this day and age, surely you can just stick a filter over your lens or do it in photoshop? I mean, the latest Portra emulsion is based on the Vision 3 cinema film emulsion anyway. Can anyone explain the appeal, apart from studio work? Is there a look that I'm not understanding? Granted, the photos in the link look very cool to me but could you not get that look with Daylight film? Maybe I'll buy a roll of 35mm and test it out. Quantum of Phallus fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Sep 23, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 12:01
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Sep 24, 2014 18:23
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