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That gorget is looking sick, Ambrose. Where would you suggest to start for someone interested in getting into repousse? It seems that it would jive well cognitively with leathercraft.  On the topic of Ghetto Anvils, I came across this video last night. Not sure how the horn would hold up to serious beating, if it even would, but seems like a decent starting place if you've got the time and inclination (and section of track): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcB-vl0vgxM Rime fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Sep 12, 2014 |
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Sep 12, 2014 04:03
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Rime posted:That gorget is looking sick, Ambrose. Where would you suggest to start for someone interested in getting into repousse? It seems that it would jive well cognitively with leathercraft. It looks pretty but there's not enough mass under the rail to help you much. This style that I talk about in the op is better, more mass under your hammer for a better rebound and energy transfer to the workpiece.  If you need to straighten out something really long, a second piece of rail left flat can help with that. Or weld a good bit of thick plate to the vertical rail. Worst part is you need a chainsaw to cut some wood like that. Or a buddy with one. If you consider that a problem.
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Sep 12, 2014 17:31
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Where does one look for a piece of rail like that?
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Sep 12, 2014 18:18
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armorer posted:Where does one look for a piece of rail like that? If you're local to the Philadelphia area, I'll give you some.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:40
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iForge posted:If you're local to the Philadelphia area, I'll give you some. Sent you a PM, I may have to take you up on that.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:52
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Sorry for the double post, but I've been meaning to put this up here for a while. I made this a few months ago, sorry about the crappy photos:  It's stainless steel, and the left shoulder opens up so you can take it on and off. I am planning to extend the neck up like a turtleneck, and have it spill back over a bit in an asymmetrical way once I get the time to work on it some more. It was originally made for a (heavily muscled) friend to use as a prop in a photoshoot and so it fits him a lot better than it fits me. I don't do any SCA stuff or anything, so it's now just a neat prop to wear on Halloween or somesuch.
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Sep 12, 2014 19:39
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That's loving gorgeous. Did you hand-shape every scale? Are there loops on the back of the scales, or how did you attach them to the maille?
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Sep 12, 2014 19:55
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TheRingLord singlehandedly makes scalemaille a reasonable or sane undertaking, glob bless em
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Sep 12, 2014 19:58
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Thanks, I was really happy with how it came out! I had nothing to do with shaping the scales though, you can buy them in two sizes and a variety of metals from The Ring Lord in Canada. If you look at the left shoulder picture you can see that each scale has a hole in the top of it. You don't attach it to maille, you weave the scales and rings together as you go. The tricky part of making something like this is figuring out where to add expansions and doing the shoulder seams nicely. At the neckline where it changes over to maille I worked through 5 or 6 slightly different ring sizes as I transitioned to pull it all together and make sure it held its shape well. EDIT: Here is a picture of the underside:  If you wanted to make something like this that would actually get beaten on, you should use split rings (like a keychain ring). With butted rings like this, the rings can open up a little bit and a scale can slip through the gap. It takes a LOT longer to make with split rings though, and this piece is never going to see any abuse so it would have been a waste of time. armorer fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Sep 12, 2014 |
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Sep 12, 2014 20:00
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armorer posted:Thanks, I was really happy with how it came out! I had nothing to do with shaping the scales though, you can buy them in two sizes and a variety of metals from The Ring Lord in Canada. They actually come in 3 sizes, as they are selling off their extra stock of custom scales from the Hobbit movies, which are a "medium" sized but the only come in 1 color. They also come in a hard plastic, and shield shapes. (I follow this thread for the occasional mail-talk that comes up, as I mail myself, and I buy all my supplies from TRL). Your mantle is really cool; the neckline is perfect!
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Sep 13, 2014 02:25
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Reformed Tomboy posted:Your mantle is really cool; the neckline is perfect! Thanks! If you want to make something like this I strongly recommend making a dress form of yourself or the eventual wearer. For this project I had my friend put on a cheap long sleeve shirt from a thrift store. I then wrapped his torso in duct tape pretty tightly, and cut the shirt off of him down the back. Then I taped up the cut, stuffed it in with newspaper, and taped over the neck and bottom. I ended up with essentially a bust of him that I could pin the mantle to as I worked on it. Before he left I marked it up with a sharpie regarding how far down it should come and where the shoulders should hit. I only saw him once after that over the time I was working on it and it ended up fitting him like a glove. This is a trick I learned from the fashion industry, as it is a cheap but super effective way to make a form of someone when you are working on a garment.
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Sep 13, 2014 03:39
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armorer posted:Thanks! If you want to make something like this I strongly recommend making a dress form of yourself or the eventual wearer... This is a trick I learned from the fashion industry, as it is a cheap but super effective way to make a form of someone when you are working on a garment. I use the same trick all the time. Though when I made my armor set, it was before I had heard of that method, so it took many test-fittings to get it right. Thankfully it was for myself and not a friend! A mantle has been on my to-make list. Perhaps I'll get to that soon... What was your ring/scale count on it?
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Sep 13, 2014 04:22
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oh my god it's so juicy need to take some proper non camera phone light tent pictures soonlike cause it's basically done. wove up some nice Persian 3-1 for the chain, colourmatching the gorget and everything.
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Sep 13, 2014 20:49
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Ambrose Burnside posted:oh my god it's so juicy Dude  . So cooooool!
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Sep 13, 2014 21:43
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Holy crap that looks amazing.
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Sep 13, 2014 21:57
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 But seriously, that is awesome.
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Sep 13, 2014 22:23
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Rime posted:That gorget is looking sick, Ambrose. Where would you suggest to start for someone interested in getting into repousse? It seems that it would jive well cognitively with leathercraft. An "existing" intro post on chasing n repousse for the OP, for starters  e: a real answer being: courses teaching it are vanishingly scarce, there's one single school in NYC that offers weekly or multi-day intensive courses, and a couple other people who teach classes here and there (Nancy Corwin, who wrote the best repousse-focused book that I'm aware of [Chasing And Repousse, natch], teaches a couple classes a year in different cities, for instance). Equipment-wise, you'll almost certainly make most or all of your punches yourself, and beyond that you need a bunch of chaser's pitch, a pitchbowl, a heatgun, and a chasing hammer. I go into all that in a lot more detail in the OP i'm writing, but, yeah, I'm slackin' in that department... Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Sep 14, 2014 |
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Sep 14, 2014 03:13
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Reformed Tomboy posted:A mantle has been on my to-make list. Perhaps I'll get to that soon... What was your ring/scale count on it? Sorry but I didn't keep track as I was working on it. This things looks awesome. If I didn't already have way too many hobbies I would run out and buy more tools immediately. Are the first links soldered to the gorget, or do they run through holes? For all the resolution in that image I can't really tell.
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Sep 14, 2014 05:20
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I drilled holes for the first links through the corners, yeah. I stay away from hot connections for things like this because I'm a mediocre solderer and don't trust my joins to hold up for the eons a seamless punched hole will. repousse is good for that, for a lot of things I leave tabs in the sheet that's normally cut away and discarded so I can roll them up and use them as integrated bails for chain.
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Sep 14, 2014 21:18
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Soldering is easy. I think I am going to be brazing a 33 inch long tube in our first Silversmithing course this week.
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Sep 14, 2014 22:34
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Brekelefuw posted:Soldering is easy. I think I am going to be brazing a 33 inch long tube in our first Silversmithing course this week. The technique isn't really hard, but ensuring proper joint penetration and the solder/brazing material actually joining with the metal takes practice since it requires the correct even heat everywhere. (And depending on the materials you're trying to join, you might need copious amounts of flux (like stainless to copper which is a common braze in industry))
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Sep 15, 2014 18:30
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Brekelefuw posted:Soldering is easy. I think I am going to be brazing a 33 inch long tube in our first Silversmithing course this week. We're supposed to bring leather gloves, but idk if that means welding gloves or finer "general PPE" working gloves. If it's the latter I'm SOL. Guess I'll find out on wednesday!!
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Sep 15, 2014 23:54
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Just general leather gloves. I bought some of those gardening gloves. Get ones with no lining. They are mostly to help absorb the impact when hammering.
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Sep 16, 2014 03:31
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That is super sweet, I have a few wh40k-nerd friends who would jizz their collective panties if I could produce stuff like this. How do you get your commissions? Kasan posted:The technique isn't really hard, but ensuring proper joint penetration and the solder/brazing material actually joining with the metal takes practice since it requires the correct even heat everywhere. (And depending on the materials you're trying to join, you might need copious amounts of flux (like stainless to copper which is a common braze in industry)) Flux is the KY Jelly of soldering/brazing/forge-welding; It makes penetration so much easier, especially when the mating surfaces are mismatched 
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Sep 16, 2014 10:04
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ReelBigLizard posted:That is super sweet, I have a few wh40k-nerd friends who would jizz their collective panties if I could produce stuff like this. How do you get your commissions? I, eh, don't, really. Or rather, I don't aggressively hustle for commissions, people tend to see stuff I've made- people I know IRL, on these forums, or on others- and approach me. I don't get much work that way, natch, and I'm trying to change that- that gorget isn't a commission, it's a spec project that I'm gonna try to stir interest in leading up to Halloween.
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Sep 16, 2014 15:02
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My gas forge is up and running, with my 3/4" T-rex burner from http://www.hybridburners.com/ However, it's not getting as hot as I would like. I have about 3 inches of kaowool around the chamber, but I'm wondering if the chamber is too small. It almost seems like I've got unburned propane spilling out the edges, even at relatively low pressures. It gets iron a light red at around 8 PSI, up to a dark to medium orange at 18 PSI, so it doesn't seem like much of a difference. Even at the low end, there are flames licking out of the front and the back. The chamber is just under 9 x 5 x 6. so around 250 cubic inches. Is it possible that it's too small a space? Now, I can forge all day on those temps, and if that's all I wanted, I'd be very happy. I love the convenience over coal; I can just turn a valve or two and in just a few minutes I'm ready to forge, and I can turn it off easily, too. Turning coal into coke takes time; it could be up to 30 minutes before I was ready, and copious smoke output for the whole time. However, I can't get up to temp to forge weld. Do other folks here have gas forges that they use, and can give some advice? I have a few theories, from the forge being too small, to having to run it at much higher pressures, to a problem with my forge construction and lining.
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Sep 16, 2014 15:32
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Pagan posted:My gas forge is up and running, with my 3/4" T-rex burner from http://www.hybridburners.com/ Congrats on the new forge! I have never built my own. It's smaller than the forges I use, but most of what I make would fit into that space. I am going to a Hammer-in that is focusing on forge welding on the 28th and 29th. They are forge welding with propane forges. I have not forgewelded at my current location, but they have a natural gas forge that they line with coke. I don't know if it makes it hotter, I kind of thought it was mostly to protect the brick. I have heard that forgewelding with a gas forge is tricky in it's own way. I will let you know anything I learn in a couple of weeks.
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Sep 16, 2014 18:03
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Thanks for the brief! Put the book on the wishlist, holy crap it's expensive in Canada. So I discovered that the Burnaby Village "living museum" offers a 6 hour Intro to Blacksmithing course (learn a ton and make a hook, dinner triangle and striker) for $175, and the last one for the year is in November. I managed to snag the last open spot, it's gonna be a long month.  The best part is that I start a 6 week welding course at BCIT the following day. Metal weekend. 
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Sep 16, 2014 18:22
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Pagan posted:My gas forge is up and running, with my 3/4" T-rex burner from http://www.hybridburners.com/ One key element to a proper burn is the length of your burner tube and the angle that it enters the forge. I can forge weld at 5 PSI in my forge that is about the same size as yours. Post pictures of your forge, with the burner lit and unlit, and a picture of your burner with a tape measure next to it for scale, and i will try to help you.
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Sep 16, 2014 18:41
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ArtistCeleste posted:Congrats on the new forge! I have never built my own. It's smaller than the forges I use, but most of what I make would fit into that space. It was very easy to build once I got the supplies. The only real hangup I had was the local weather; New England had a massive heatwave and it was 90+ (which is hot for here). I didn't want to work with the kaowool without safety gear, and I can only sweat into a respirator mask for so long before I'm done. But if it had been temperate? Coulda built it in a day or two. iForge posted:One key element to a proper burn is the length of your burner tube and the angle that it enters the forge. I can forge weld at 5 PSI in my forge that is about the same size as yours. Thank you for the offer; I'll get some pix taken shortly.
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Sep 16, 2014 23:50
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So a layer of renaissance wax did: very little to nothing to stop my brass from tarnishing. That's, disappointing, to say the least. The tarnish isn't uniform but it formed about as fast as it normally does. Is there some trick to using it? I might have touched the polished areas before applying the wax, that would do it, I bet.
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Sep 17, 2014 18:54
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Ambrose Burnside posted:So a layer of renaissance wax did: very little to nothing to stop my brass from tarnishing. That's, disappointing, to say the least. The tarnish isn't uniform but it formed about as fast as it normally does. Is there some trick to using it? I might have touched the polished areas before applying the wax, that would do it, I bet. I've had decent luck polishing brass doorknobs, cleaning the wax from the polishing compound completely off with denatured alcohol, then spraying polyurethane on them. YMMV
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Sep 17, 2014 23:38
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Survived my first silversmithing class, met brek (nice dude), got to ogle the mute he was raising, got started on an. adequate. brass bowl on my end. good stuff.
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Sep 18, 2014 05:34
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My mute looks like the nipple from a gigantic statue of the Buddha right now. Hopefully it will progress to mute shaped in a week or two.
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Sep 19, 2014 04:40
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I'm taking a welding class this weekend, I had a lot of fun. Today was a lot of discussion about various metalworking tools (chop saw, grinders, etc) but we also went over oxy-acetylene cutting. Which seems very cool and also a little scary. Hands on welding, I only got to do for about half an hour, but somewhere (this thread, I think) I'd read about how important it is that you can draw a straight bead that looks like overlapping coins. So I just practiced on that, probably did about 30 or so of 'em, and by the end, they were looking pretty consistent and good. Tomorrow, we're supposed to bring in our own projects. I have a few things I think would make a good anvil, once they're assembled correctly, among other projects. So far I'm having fun, and it's kind of amazing to think of all the possibilities now that I can stick any two pieces of steel together in almost any configuration I can imagine.
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Sep 20, 2014 23:17
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Pagan posted:I'd read about how important it is that you can draw a straight bead that looks like overlapping coins. Row of Dimes is the ole go to. So I took some blacksmiting classes at the Fall Univeristy for the SCA out here and got to spend some 1 on 1 time with one of the more known blacksmiths out here. He ended up giving me 11 sets of his old tongs and a bucket of refractory to fix my brake drum forge so the heat is where it's supposed to be. I was awestruck to get such a bounty. I also learned how to properly make tongs and it's amazingly easier than I was attempting. Kasan fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Sep 22, 2014 |
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Sep 22, 2014 01:18
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 commission for a friend. friend gratitude, friend commission rates, the mixiest of blessings
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Sep 24, 2014 20:57
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Video request: At some point there was a video of a multi axis, tool swapping metal 3d printer AND mill. It made some retardedly complex multiple port flange or something somewhat reminiscent of wtfboob. Was I dreaming, or is this a real video that made the rounds? Because I sure as poo poo can't find it.
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Sep 24, 2014 21:35
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I know exactly what you're talking about and it was impossible to find last time I went looking for it. Then I found it. Checking youtube viewing history now... e: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9IdZ2pI5dA
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Sep 24, 2014 21:41
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Ambrose Burnside posted:
I started writing up a reply thinking that I was in the leatherworking thread, then took a closer look and realized those weren't stamp marks. Nice work!
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Sep 24, 2014 21:43
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