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Took the Baja in for an alignment since everything was apart so it needed to be set properly now that all the bushings were replaced. A one hour $100 alignment turned into 3 hours and $300  On top of that, spoke with the tech beforehand and explained to him what specs I wanted it aligned to and what aftermarket parts influence suspension and are adjustable, and he seemed to understand. 3 hours later I get my car back aligned to as close to stock as the parts will allow. Turns out he even turned the offset strut mounts to remove the added castor and camber they were designed to add. God drat, going to go back on Friday since I had places to be and was already running really late. At least the wheels are aligned so I won't scrub the tires off just driving around.
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Sep 17, 2014 17:43
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Holy poo poo, never go back to that alignment shop again.
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Sep 17, 2014 17:58
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some texas redneck posted:I'm pretty sure the filter in my 2001 Accord has never been done - the HVAC blows pretty weak even on high (it makes noises like the fan is running on high, but not much air comes out). My mechanic laughed when I asked him how much he would charge me to replace it and told me I probably didn't want to know, and said it was a 1-2 hour job. At $85/hour. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gS3PkCth68 Check that out. Doesnt look hard to do at all.
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Sep 17, 2014 18:03
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  Coming back from premob training. It fit!
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Sep 17, 2014 18:10
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Also, I did this two weeks ago before leaving. Not the greatest (my first try) but I'll keep it for now until I find some more vinyl I like for cheap.     Compared to what it used to be:  
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Sep 17, 2014 22:45
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I had it fixed. I bought the car with a bunch of little dents and dings (including one decent sized dent in the left-front fender that I asked about on here), and over last winter some rust began to form on the roof in front of the sunroof. Took it to the body shop recommended by a local Subaru dealer and couldn't be happier. As a bonus, they buffed it. Not that I didn't think they would, but... shiny. I've never had it buffed before. Not bad for a 7/8-year-old car.   No more dent! So shiny. The wheels are going to be my winter wheels, I'm tired of running a nice car on Rotas. Picked up a set of BBSs and had them powdercoated flat black. 
Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 01:15
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New carrier bearing installed on the 94 Ranger.
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Sep 18, 2014 01:37
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Upgraded my sway bars to adjustable whitelines Front bar old 27mm new 32 mm  Rear old 15mm new 18  Funny thing you have to drop the read cradle to install the swaybar on top and since the cradle has adjustment in it you have to take measurements and mark where it goes so you dont lose your alignment. Some where I hosed up and started out with 9 1/4 inches from rim lip to the forward edge of the wheel well to 7 inches when I finished. So either I measured wrong in the beginning or shortened the wheel base by 2 inches.
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Sep 18, 2014 03:11
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Got the old headlights and turn signals replaced on the ranger. Also replaced the grille and added a bug defelector.
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Sep 20, 2014 18:25
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Speaking of Rangers, I just did a set of plugs and wires on a 2001 Ranger for a friend of mine. I noticed it ran a bit rough and was quite sluggish and stumbled on acceleration. Aside from the dry and brittle wires, I discover this: The plug on the right is one of the old plugs I pulled from the engine, the other 5 looked just like that one. The new plug on the left is gapped to the factory spec of .042" Purrs like a kitten now. 
Root Bear fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Sep 21, 2014 |
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Sep 21, 2014 01:56
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QuarkMartial posted:Dropped a big chunk of change on oil changes for my truck and my wife's car. Going on about 10k miles on my oil, at least it's partial synthetic Update: Pads that are on the truck have plenty of life left - all four pads have nearly as much material as the new pads I bought (approx 3/4"). No idea what was making them squeak. Calipers looked good. No debris lodged anywhere. Hosed everything down with brake cleaner, so maybe that'll help it some. 
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Sep 21, 2014 23:22
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(Motorcraft 5w20 high mileage, if you're curious)
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New plugs, upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, pcv valve. Also replaced a couple stupid poo poo plastic coolant line fittings that broke along the way.
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Sep 22, 2014 01:53
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Installed a new factory ECU with a Nistune board pre-installed. Didnt take pics because its just a grey box with a loom plugged into it. Will be getting a dyno tune in a week or two. Looking forward to a gob of midrange power exposing itself.
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Sep 22, 2014 03:55
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Laserface posted:Installed a new factory ECU with a Nistune board pre-installed. Didnt take pics because its just a grey box with a loom plugged into it. I love some Nistune - I'm running a board 4 and am currently working with my mechanic because the standard map sensor freaks out when you get past 20 PSI. Matt, the guy who makes nistune, has been good and has helped us over the phone a few times. I didn't do anything to my ride today but I did order a new tappet gasket. The current one is threatening to throw oil all over the dump pipe.
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Sep 22, 2014 04:11
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tobu posted:I love some Nistune - I'm running a board 4 and am currently working with my mechanic because the standard map sensor freaks out when you get past 20 PSI. Matt, the guy who makes nistune, has been good and has helped us over the phone a few times. Sup board 4 buddy. Type X running s15 turbo and injectors with a z32 on the way. Matt is a champ. Sent me a preinstalled ecu and I just have to send mine back. Whole thing over in a day.
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Sep 22, 2014 05:37
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Installed a new steering rack and new motor mounts in E36 M3.
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Sep 22, 2014 07:32
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Planned on cleaning the throttle body. Popped off the resonator; throttle body and intake are still quite clean after 40,000 miles. I'm still uncomfortable with this brave new world of clean-burning modern engines and functioning PCV systems.
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Sep 22, 2014 17:40
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    vinyl m striping decals Slightly disappointed with the print quality, I'm not really confident that they're going to last all that long. Sizing on the rear one seemed a tiny bit off. Also, I might just replace the rear badge altogether, as you can see the fake chrome looks kind of worn. $12.50 instead of $90+ for 3 new badges...Was worth a shot.
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Sep 22, 2014 21:58
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Lamar Smith R-TX posted:
Does it bother you that one is upside down?
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Sep 22, 2014 22:41
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StormDrain posted:Does it bother you that one is upside down? Somebody on bimmerforums busted me already. I corrected it about 60 seconds ago... hahaaaa  
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Sep 22, 2014 22:48
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Changed the oil (Valvoline high milage fro the ZDDP goodness), got a new exhaust installed from the muffler on back ( ) , sanded and primered some rust spots, and fixed a minor coolant leak on the rolling Amber Alert.E: AWWW YISSSSSS... Mutha-fuckin NOS amber turn signal glass and gaskets, and NOS/repro pedals! 
spookykid fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Sep 23, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 02:49
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Changed the oil on the Avalon. It's only been driven about 5k miles in the past year, and about 5500 since the oil was changed. And apparently, in that time, it's started pissing oil from multiple places. Looks like both sets of cam seals and the front crank seal are leaking pretty good. The timing belt was done about 50k ago, and I doubt the seals dried out in the 6 months that it wasn't driven regularly. Guessing I can add that to the list of stuff that the dealer didn't do. It's also dripping oil from the upper intake where the PCV connects - guessing it's got a bit of blowby now.  I've gotta start looking at this thing more often; it was at least a quart low on oil, coolant overflow was nearly empty, power steering fluid was low...  It's only seen Mobil 1 its entire life; it got the high mileage version this time, hopefully that'll help the seals out a little bit for now.
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Sep 23, 2014 03:41
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 http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/bmw-aluminum-throttle-bushings Very worthwhile upgrade! Absolutely recommend it to anybody out there with a compatible motor. Made my gas pedal is a helluva lot more precise and predictable.
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Sep 23, 2014 06:03
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I replaced the wheel hubs on my 99 Miata. I had a loose stud on both front wheels. Came to find that all of the studs were floating in holes that were too large with .001% penetration weld boogers holding them on, and the grease had at some point been replaced with rust baby diarrhea. I only found this out, though, because I curbed my wheel and tore a giant chunk out of the tire right next to the bead. I imagine that if I put any sort of real load on those front wheels, that the studs would just shift around in their wallowed out holes. The PO tracked the car, so what I think happened is that he put extended ARP wheel studs in, and didn't want to part with them come time to dump the oil burning POS, so he knocked them out and sneezed some welds on the original studs so he could at least put wheels on long enough to sell the thing. Fooled me.
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Sep 23, 2014 06:16
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Fortunately for you it looks like new wheel flanges with bearings/seals/lug studs preinstalled are $23 each on rockauto, so that's an afternoon and $50 problem not a big issue. Hate it when people do poo poo like that.
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Sep 23, 2014 18:08
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Already fixed! I got SKF bearings cause I'ma dork. They sent the wrong spindle nuts, but I happened to have some real nice ones on the subframe that is set aside for an exocet.
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Sep 23, 2014 19:51
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Installed a new pioneer radio with bluetooth and smart phone connectivity. Sounds 100x better than the old stock radio.
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Sep 24, 2014 00:23
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I brought my new ride home today. Already have a Steeda intake ordered. I don't know when induction/combustion noises became so offensive, but this car is too quiet. Has the two liter ecoboost. Coming from a Focus, it's nice to have a car with some power again.
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Sep 24, 2014 00:51
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Installed a new pioneer radio with bluetooth and smart phone connectivity. Sounds 100x better than the old stock radio. Hey, I installed a stereo too!  The crimps are rattling behind the dash though. I think I need to get some of that fabric mesh wrap and give them something to be nice and smooth against.
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Sep 24, 2014 00:59
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I replaced all 4 corners of shocks/struts on the Speed3. The back was clunking and leaking so it was time. I brought it in for an alignment and by sheer dumb luck, everything was still within factory spec...
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Sep 24, 2014 01:43
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Apparently doing a water pump >:|
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Sep 24, 2014 17:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Hey, I installed a stereo too! I have the same stereo! I like it a lot, and my car won't accept a full-depth stereo so this was perfect. The android app is sucky so I just use Bluetooth  For the crimps, get some self adhesive foam and wrap them in that - it's what the automakers do. Or just ziptie them to nearby wires.
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Sep 24, 2014 17:28
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I ordered some of that expandable fabric loom wrap for now, and if that doesn't work out I'll probably just end up wrapping the individual crimps or the entire harness in hockey tape. They're cap crimps (e.g. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-wqjQnPPFvHA/p_120CCL1614/Metra-Crimp-Caps.html), so there's a bit of annoyance there since the plastic nubbin is so big and nonlinear. I gotta open the whole mess up again because I realized I forgot to install the microphone anyway, so it will be nice to kill two birds with one stone. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 24, 2014 |
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Sep 24, 2014 17:42
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Stop using cap crimps and start using butt splices, the availability of easy dad-puns while splicin' butts is worth it alone.
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Sep 24, 2014 17:55
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kastein posted:Stop using cap crimps and start using butt splices, the availability of easy dad-puns while splicin' butts is worth it alone. If you don't like butt splicin', you're objectively wrong.
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Sep 24, 2014 22:20
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Sep 24, 2014 23:02
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I can't turn it off! Even with the "music off"-jumper activated. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lujYIIHbmek
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Sep 25, 2014 01:08
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Changed the oil in my diff, and painted it while I was at it. I hate rust. I've been meaning to change the oil since I bought it, over a year ago.   One more to go - I still need to flush and fill the brakes to have changed all the fluids. Clutch I can't really do anything about, because Jeep went with a plastic master and slave with no bleeder. You buy it all as a pre-filled assembly.  e: I'm going to paint the disc hubs and calipers to match eventually. White because the exterior of the Jeep is white, and I didn't want ricer red or yellow. Blue was an option, as was cast-iron grey. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Sep 25, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 01:09
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Darchangel posted:Changed the oil in my diff, and painted it while I was at it. I hate rust. My 2000 tj has the factory fluid in the clutch hydraulics, and it's still clear as new fluid. Just saying that it might not need to be changed if you haven't left the cap off.
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Sep 25, 2014 01:14
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Darchangel posted:Changed the oil in my diff, and painted it while I was at it. I hate rust. I'm so confused about the angle of this truck on the jackstands.
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Sep 25, 2014 02:22
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