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BlackMK4 posted:They also sell a set of F20 mounts for a 2002 for $650. You bastard, now I know what I must do with my E21. I bet I could do the entire swap cheaper than the Metric Mechanic (or equivalent) M10 I was looking at.
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Sep 17, 2014 12:34
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At the risk of bringing up a topic that has probably been beaten to death many times: For those with cars equipped with RFTs: Do you keep them or replace them with regular tires? E: For those that replace, did you get a mobility kit (donut spare)? Bulky Bartokomous fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Sep 17, 2014 |
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Sep 17, 2014 15:04
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Dantu posted:At the risk of bringing up a topic that has probably been beaten to death many times: Replace immediately.
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Sep 17, 2014 15:07
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Replace. I have regular summers and winters. When I got this car, it had very new Pirelli cinturato tires, so I kept them until they wore out. They're awful, and putting pilot super sports on made it a whole new car. Edit: I have a plug kit, and towing reimbursement from state farm. I keep meaning to get triple a.
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Sep 17, 2014 15:16
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Dantu posted:Do you keep them or replace them with regular tires? Yes, when they needed replaced anyway. Yes, I bought a spare and strapped it into the trunk. You may have to add the trunk hooks if you are LCI
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Sep 17, 2014 15:40
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When my rears finally died, I switched entirely to normal tires. I have roadside assistance but when that runs out I'll get AAA.
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Sep 17, 2014 16:04
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Dantu posted:At the risk of bringing up a topic that has probably been beaten to death many times: Replace. Add plug / goo / pump kit in trunk (like ex. Z4M). gently caress run-flats.
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Sep 17, 2014 16:06
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BlackMK4 posted:Looks like you can get a motor/transmission/ecu/cluster/harness for like $3k-ish depending on where you look, which isn't all that much worse than a S50/S52. CATuned has done a few of these swaps and they modify the oil pan and front subframe; the rest fits without beating the firewall or transmission tunnel. Obviously need to make a driveshaft, as well. I'm thinking they basically retain most of the stock engine harness/ecu/cluster wiring and splice what is needed into the stock harness. I'll be giving CATuned a call when it gets closer to swap time. $1700 is the number thrown around for their kit, which if you've got a crashed/bad title/whatever car in you're hands can easily be made back by parting the interior/panels/seat/shell with title/etc. Man, I had no idea the swap kit for the f20 is so cheap. I'm all about this for swapping it next summer, hopefully after the m42 shits the bed.
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Sep 17, 2014 16:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:You bastard, now I know what I must do with my E21. I bet I could do the entire swap cheaper than the Metric Mechanic (or equivalent) M10 I was looking at. Metric mechanic makes nice stuff, but for the most part it seems overpriced. I've been in a MM e28 with their 3.7l stroker and beefed up getrag. Trans felt great but the motor had bad piston slap when cold due to the cheap Chevy pistons they use.
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Sep 17, 2014 17:16
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mafoose posted:Metric mechanic makes nice stuff, but for the most part it seems overpriced. I've been in a MM e28 with their 3.7l stroker and beefed up getrag. Trans felt great but the motor had bad piston slap when cold due to the cheap Chevy pistons they use. Yeah that's kind of what I'm thinking. $5500 for a 155hp M10 seems pretty steep to me. I could blow up a lot of junkyard M10's with turbos for that kind of money. I want to do something with the engine...I'm just not sure if it's going to be forced induction, NA build or a swap. The car is pathetically heavy for what it is and the ~110hp it has leaves a lot to be desired since it will see track use.
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Sep 17, 2014 19:46
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BraveUlysses posted:Man, I had no idea the swap kit for the f20 is so cheap. I'm all about this for swapping it next summer, hopefully after the m42 shits the bed. I think it's the perfect motor for an E30... that intake noise.
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Sep 17, 2014 20:57
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NitroSpazzz posted:Yeah that's kind of what I'm thinking. $5500 for a 155hp M10 seems pretty steep to me. I could blow up a lot of junkyard M10's with turbos for that kind of money. I want to do something with the engine...I'm just not sure if it's going to be forced induction, NA build or a swap. The car is pathetically heavy for what it is and the ~110hp it has leaves a lot to be desired since it will see track use. Turbo m10. Don't even waste time with NA when you could swap in a cheap m20 from an e30. I've driven a homebrew megasquirt/EDIS e30 m10 with a Toyota soarer turbo. Made 235 to the wheels and had passed through like 5 owners on stock internals with MLS gasket and ARP studs. They can take boost well. The best part is all it takes for a turbo manifold on an m10 is flipping the stock manifold upside down and welding on a flange.
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Sep 17, 2014 22:33
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televiper posted:oh, sweet! honestly I thought maybe you'd decided to write me off since it took me a couple of days to send you your money and I didn't blame you for the phantom decision I'd thought you'd made Nope. I'm lazy and highly skilled at procrastination, not a passive-aggressive dick. A couple of days for a payment is nothing, I honestly hadn't even noticed.
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Sep 18, 2014 01:01
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On the RFT discussion, does it make a difference if I have a pair of RFTs and a pair of regular tires on the car at the same time? I have PSS's on the front and the dealer put a pair of OEM Bridgestone RFTs on the back. Had I known they were going to do that when I was buying it, I would have had them put a pair of PSS's on the back to match instead. Anyone used that Continental kit they have on TireRack for cars with no spare?
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Sep 18, 2014 12:20
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E36: I replaced my motor mounts yesterday as my engine was almost resting on the X-brace. It was nice to have a little less vibration come into the car. I also broke down and ordered a new steering rack and put it in. I finally now have real steering and all of the slop I chased through FCABs, tie rods, and strut mounts is finally gone. The feedback is great.
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Sep 18, 2014 13:45
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Aflicted posted:On the RFT discussion, does it make a difference if I have a pair of RFTs and a pair of regular tires on the car at the same time? I have PSS's on the front and the dealer put a pair of OEM Bridgestone RFTs on the back. Had I known they were going to do that when I was buying it, I would have had them put a pair of PSS's on the back to match instead. Anyone used that Continental kit they have on TireRack for cars with no spare? I don't think this is a RFT vs non RFT issue, more that you have mismatched tires. The car might be more oversteer happy in the wet, my OEM RFT's were pretty bad in the rain compared to the pilot sport as3's I have now.
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Sep 18, 2014 14:35
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sanchez posted:I don't think this is a RFT vs non RFT issue, more that you have mismatched tires. The car might be more oversteer happy in the wet, my OEM RFT's were pretty bad in the rain compared to the pilot sport as3's I have now. OK, I was going by what I was skimming off the internet about handling differences between an RFT and non RFT tire and thinking. I have no prior personal experience with RFT tires and have no intention of continuing it passed the life or my impatience with these tires. The mismatch certainly won't help though. Before new tires I want to drain/fill the diff and replace the pan/filter and fluid in the trans. I'll probably go ahead and replace the mechatronics sleeve as well while I'm under there.
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Sep 18, 2014 14:51
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So I'm going to go take a look at this '89 e30 this weekend, because I've always absolutely loved the look of this body type for as long as I can remember. I'm not really a car person at all, and have no mechanical knowledge/aptitude. Is this a horrible decision? Are there any glaring problems I'm missing? Edit: vvvv Yeah, but the only manual e30 around me looked like total poo poo :/ Schiavona fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 16:02
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Schiavona posted:So I'm going to go take a look at this '89 e30 this weekend, because I've always absolutely loved the look of this body type for as long as I can remember. Definitely not a bad deal if he has receipts for all that work.  auto, though.
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Sep 18, 2014 16:23
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Schiavona posted:So I'm going to go take a look at this '89 e30 this weekend, because I've always absolutely loved the look of this body type for as long as I can remember. If you aren't mechanical at all buy a haynes/bentley repair manual for the car and start learning. E30's are reliable and usually don't take much work but that's a 25 year old car and stuff is going to need attention. They are VERY easy to work on and between manuals and forums I doubt there is any job that doesn't have a step by step guide somewhere. Crustashio posted:Turbo m10. Don't even waste time with NA when you could swap in a cheap m20 from an e30. I've driven a homebrew megasquirt/EDIS e30 m10 with a Toyota soarer turbo. Made 235 to the wheels and had passed through like 5 owners on stock internals with MLS gasket and ARP studs. They can take boost well. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 16:32
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Schiavona posted:So I'm going to go take a look at this '89 e30 this weekend, because I've always absolutely loved the look of this body type for as long as I can remember. This is strange. https://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/4635915116.html E: NVM they say they travel back and forth so it makes sense to list it on both. Same picture and different mileage initially setoff my suspicions.
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Sep 18, 2014 17:08
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Buy that e30. Even being an auto, the ZF4HP22 is a good transmission. They are pretty hard to kill, until you make more than... 350 lbs of torque (not happening unless you go insane). They have a few fatal weak links ... Parking pawls seem to die if beat on which can be fixed by using the parking brake and don't rev the motor over 2k rpms when standing still. The pump is driven off the output shaft, and the transmission can't cool itself and will toast itself pretty easy. Not saying if you rev it once or twice its OMG were hosed now! Its basically reving it for 7-10 minutes strait will kill it. Other wise, suspension, bushings, cooling system and misc minor bullshit is all there ever is to go wrong on on them. Edit: thus guy sounds like an enthusiast or at least knows his way around the car. I would buy it and I'm not a 3 series person either. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Sep 18, 2014 |
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Sep 18, 2014 21:09
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Dantu posted:At the risk of bringing up a topic that has probably been beaten to death many times: I replaced mine as soon as they wore out (135i with Potenza RE050A RFT from the factory). They aren't bad tires, they had plenty of grip and lasted around 12k miles. I replaced them with Dunlop Star Specs and I immediately noticed that the car's ride didn't seem the same, it felt too soft. With the runflats it was firm, but never harsh. I installed some KW coilovers after that and the car's ride was the same as it was with the run flats. Now I run Dunlop ZIIs but I live dangerously without a can of fix-a-flat or a spare.
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Sep 18, 2014 21:12
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doogle posted:I replaced mine as soon as they wore out (135i with Potenza RE050A RFT from the factory). They aren't bad tires, they had plenty of grip and lasted around 12k miles. I replaced them with Dunlop Star Specs and I immediately noticed that the car's ride didn't seem the same, it felt too soft. With the runflats it was firm, but never harsh. I installed some KW coilovers after that and the car's ride was the same as it was with the run flats. I guess that depends on what your definition of soft is. On runflats, my 135 was rattling my teeth going over speed bumps. Switching to normal tires was amazing.
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Sep 18, 2014 22:21
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televiper posted:how would you feel about selling the current wheels 'as is' and using that to fund the wheels you want? I'd do that in a heartbeat
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Sep 18, 2014 22:40
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This is the question for the vintage guys. http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/4674212020.html (if the ad goes, its not a big deal) But doesn't the i stand for fuel injection? The seller claims it has dual webbers. If I had some spare cash and the price was a little better I'd be looking at it.
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Sep 18, 2014 22:52
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What's the prevailing opinion of the new 320i models in this thread? My not-a-car-enthusiast mom is looking into getting one as a replacement for her godawful 2003 Mercedes C230, which was an always-broken nightmare of a car (she loved it for some reason). Is the 320i really just a detuned 328i in all the ways that matter? Or did they make compromises in build quality to hit a price point like her old C230? She wants another German car because she likes the way the doors feel heavy and substantial when she closes them. Her price range is ~$30,000 or less so a "real" BMW is out of the question.
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Sep 18, 2014 22:54
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BrokenKnucklez posted:This is the question for the vintage guys. Yeah, the i is supposed to stand for injected, kind of interesting that there's no shots of the engine bay or anything
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Sep 18, 2014 22:57
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rscott posted:Yeah, the i is supposed to stand for injected, kind of interesting that there's no shots of the engine bay or anything Yeah, that looks sketchy and trashed as all hell.
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Sep 18, 2014 22:59
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EVERYWHERE 
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$4k will get you a nice e28 which is a really good update to an e12 with very similar styling, and much better parts availability.
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Sep 18, 2014 23:04
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Thats what I kinda figured. The dual carbs would have been fun to fiddle with but I looked at it again on a bigger screen and its pretty ratty.
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Sep 18, 2014 23:08
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Tacier posted:What's the prevailing opinion of the new 320i models in this thread? My not-a-car-enthusiast mom is looking into getting one as a replacement for her godawful 2003 Mercedes C230, which was an always-broken nightmare of a car (she loved it for some reason).
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Sep 19, 2014 00:21
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If she doesn't drive the thing hard why is a CPO car with a bigger engine better for her than a new car with an engine we don't like?
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Sep 19, 2014 00:48
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I can't speak to the build quality of the car as I haven't driven one, but does she have to have a brand new car? She could get in to a "real" BMW if she was willing to buy CPO. Just checked autotrader.com, and it looks like you can get into 2012 and 2013 328's for under $30k. She's terrified of freeways and will rarely ever take this car over 65mph, so the 180 horses in the 320i should be more than enough. I'm just wondering if the car makes compromises in ways other than power.
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Sep 19, 2014 01:04
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Tacier posted:She's terrified of freeways and will rarely ever take this car over 65mph, so the 180 horses in the 320i should be more than enough. I'm just wondering if the car makes compromises in ways other than power. The 320 STARTS at 32k , and that's with no options. No leather seats, no xenon lights, no nav, manual seats, etc. Absolutely nothing. I would not buy a BMW without at least the premium package. A basic specced one is nearly 40k. The 320 also cannot be specced as high as a 328 either. She's probably better off finding a 1-2 year used 328 that will have more way more options and feel better than buying new at that price range. Also with a CPO the warranty will be as long or longer than factory.
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Sep 19, 2014 01:30
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Tacier posted:She's terrified of freeways and will rarely ever take this car over 65mph, so the 180 horses in the 320i should be more than enough. I'm just wondering if the car makes compromises in ways other than power. Honestly, Is there any reason she isn't looking at a CPO Lexus or the new Mercedes CLA? Lexus and Mercedes do the luxury sedan/smooth ride thing way better than BMW do right now, and I wouldn't hesitate to put my mom in either like I would a BMW.
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Sep 19, 2014 01:46
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Tacier posted:What's the prevailing opinion of the new 320i models in this thread? My not-a-car-enthusiast mom is looking into getting one as a replacement for her godawful 2003 Mercedes C230, which was an always-broken nightmare of a car (she loved it for some reason). Yes, it really is just a detuned 328i. Kind of. The compromises are all of the stuff you have to pay extra for on a $30k car that come standard on much cheaper cars that also have turbo four cylinder engines or even sixes: backup camera, navigation, xenon headlights, real leather, etc. With that said, most non-enthusiasts don't care about xenon lights and some people actually prefer the leatherette, claiming it holds up much better.
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Sep 19, 2014 01:51
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Viper_3000 posted:Honestly, Is there any reason she isn't looking at a CPO Lexus or the new Mercedes CLA? Lexus and Mercedes do the luxury sedan/smooth ride thing way better than BMW do right now, and I wouldn't hesitate to put my mom in either like I would a BMW. While she loves the way her C230 drives, it's had loads of problems with sky-high repair bills over the last 10 years (even with only 60k miles currently), so it's soured her on the Mercedes brand a bit. I'll admit I don't know much about the CLA, but if Mercedes has made considerable strides in their affordable cars since 2003 then maybe it's worth looking into. Her town doesn't have a Lexus dealership, so that's a non-starter.
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Sep 19, 2014 01:59
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Tacier posted:While she loves the way her C230 drives, it's had loads of problems with sky-high repair bills over the last 10 years (even with only 60k miles currently), so it's soured her on the Mercedes brand a bit. I'll admit I don't know much about the CLA, but if Mercedes has made considerable strides in their affordable cars since 2003 then maybe it's worth looking into. You are also talking about a car that was born during the Chrysler era for Mercedes and the entire line of cars from them had quirks. I have replaced lots of stupid poo poo in my Mom's E320 of that vintage, and it has the same power steering whine as my 2000 Dakota. They have made strides since then to improve themselves so I wouldn't totally discount them. Having a car sour your impression of a company is understandable, but then I owned two Audis and wouldn't hesitate to get another if I fancied it. Maybe I'm insane.
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Sep 19, 2014 02:11
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Tacier posted:While she loves the way her C230 drives, it's had loads of problems with sky-high repair bills over the last 10 years (even with only 60k miles currently), so it's soured her on the Mercedes brand a bit. I'll admit I don't know much about the CLA, but if Mercedes has made considerable strides in their affordable cars since 2003 then maybe it's worth looking into. If you're looking for non sky-high repair bills, german luxury cars should be last on your list. I had a c230 of that vintage and they are horrible, horrible cars, but Mercedes has made huge strides since coming out of the Chrysler era. Honestly in your case I'd be looking for something Honda/Toyota that's been optioned out and is CPO, since it sounds like your mom just wants a comfortable safe driving appliance. German cars = expensive maintenance, there's just no way around that.
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Sep 19, 2014 02:25
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