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StormDrain posted:I bought the cheapest oil catch pan that sealed up and I hate it. It's too much extra work just to catch it and the lid broke and leaks always. http://smile.amazon.com/Hopkins-FloTool-11838-Oil-Drain/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1411405266&sr=8-17&keywords=oil+drain+pan Personally, I don't see the point in getting another container for oil unless you're really going through a lot to warrant it(like a service shop) or you buy your oil from canada where it comes in bags. What do you do with your used oil containers and whatnot? At home, I just pour out my drain pan back into those, then dump 'em at  vatozone whenever I make run errands back out there, but that's me.
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Sep 23, 2014 05:58
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Black88GTA posted:Flare tool chat: I didn't think to check this thread before placing an order for a flaring set, and of course I think of it after I've already ordered it. I have that one, and first time I used the drat thing it broke. I turned the tool body down over the die block, snugged it up nice and tight, and it stripped the drat threads right off of that die block at what felt to be a perfectly reasonable torque. I was not too happy about that. Edit: They don't sell parts individually, as well. Didn't even offer to send me a fresh one.
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Sep 23, 2014 06:20
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I just ordered 
I'll be using it for small-diameter stainless lines, at least for the project I'm currently trying to knock out.
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Uthor posted:Oh, I meant one I can hit with a hammer. Like this: The one from harbor freight. I don't trust it further than I can throw it, but it's held up to very light abuse over the past 3 years.
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Sep 23, 2014 07:15
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Uthor posted:-I really need to get an impact driver. Suggestion? I took some pictures of my Harbor Freight impact driver while trying to get 4 rotor screws out (only got out one that day). In order of events:    The one I got for $12.99 from Northern Tool didn't break when doing the 5 undamaged screws that were still in when I started the second day, but I attribute that partially to the magic of the hammer trick (go buy a ball-peen hammer from Lowe's/HD to hit with your BFH/claw-hammer. You can return it afterwards if you really don't plan on using it again). If you don't have a Northern Tool nearby, you might want to try a HF impact as they can be somewhat expensive elsewhere, but I would have a backup ready to go and DEFINITELY STOP USING IT IF THE BIT STARTS TO TWIST. I knew better, but I still sheered the bit off. Twice  .
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Sep 23, 2014 08:11
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Cat Hatter posted:I took some pictures of my Harbor Freight impact driver while trying to get 4 rotor screws out (only got out one that day). In order of events: I have had the exact same luck with the Harbor Freight impact driver bits. I had much better luck with a Matco driver I bought off eBay, but some of those bits eventually broke too. You can get replacement bit sets on Amazon for reasonable prices. I ordered two different kinds of bits, but I have not tried them yet.
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Sep 23, 2014 11:46
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McSpatula posted:Personally, I don't see the point in getting another container for oil unless you're really going through a lot to warrant it(like a service shop) or you buy your oil from canada where it comes in bags. I've done all of that before. Right now, I put the lovely catch pan in the flatbed and drive it down to Autozone, where I have to hold it level so it doesn't leak much and then take it back to the truck and clean up. Before that, I'd pour it back into the quart containers, but that was messy, dirtied a funnel, sometimes one would tip over and make a huge mess, or I would overfill one and make a mess. The catch pans that double as storage have to be cleaned too, where the oil lands on it. My idea is to use a basic oil catch pan (that could just be dirty afterwords) and transfer that into another container once. A container that I can carry easily, doesn't leak on the bed, and has a nice large opening so I don't have to use a funnel. The other factor is I don't always have a lot of time to accomplish these things, since I'm only at home on the weekends. I can change the oil, rotate the tires while the car is off the ground and draining, then refill, but once the cap is back on and the hood is down, I'm done for the day.
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Sep 23, 2014 15:41
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Viper_3000 posted:The one from harbor freight. I don't trust it further than I can throw it, but it's held up to very light abuse over the past 3 years. Harbor Freight sells two models, a skinny chrome one with just a couple bits and a fat one (don't remember the finish) in a little plastic box sold as a kit. The fat one looks lovely and I passed on it. The skinny one takes any random hex driver bit, and over the last 3 years I have beaten six kinds of gently caress out of it with a 4-pound drilling sledge. It's a champ.
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Sep 23, 2014 19:46
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I just bought the Lisle I linked to earlier. It has good reviews on Amazon. The other popular one was a chromed one, but I didn't think chroming something meant to be hit with a hammer was a good idea, so I passed on it.
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Sep 23, 2014 20:47
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I have the cheapo harbor freight impact screwdriver kit. It works fine for subaru wrist pin covers, bit I'd want better bits if I were doing anything else.
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Sep 23, 2014 20:52
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I've got a Proto from ZoroTools, and I've beat the hell out of it. The Phillips bits are OK, but the slotted ones suck. I've got to warranty one from removing 4 vise-jaw screws. Speaking of vises: http://imgur.com/a/kXCld Album of the 5 I'm thinking of selling. The first one is a massive 5" Athol, which I'm debating about keeping. The slide has been beaten on, but it works very well. No swivel, obviously. The second is a Simplex 4", with integral Pipe jaws and a swivel base. It's a light-weight utility vise, nothing crazy. It's got some scars, and I don't have any of the metalworking tools that fit into the anvil hole. Third is a Parker 4 1/2", which I've restored and cleaned up. During cleaning, I found the crack under the dynamic jaw. It's plenty strong, and works well, but I'd avoid bashing the poo poo out of the jaws (not that you should anyhow). It's heavy as hell, no swivel. Fourth is a Torco 4", built by Wilton. Swivel base, pipe jaws, original condition, and nearly great shape other than a slight bend in the handle. Last is a Parker #21 that's been brazed. It's in tough shape, and has an odd swivel base, but works. It could use a serious cleaning-up. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Sep 23, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 21:21
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Uthor posted:I found this method for getting the rotors off after "HAMMER!" didn't work in that case. It was brilliant! We should make a thread about little tricks to save people frustration. I like this one, along with the use of a jack handle to pop CV axles out. I want more backyard tricks!
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Sep 24, 2014 15:42
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itsrobbiej posted:We should make a thread about little tricks to save people frustration. I like this one, along with the use of a jack handle to pop CV axles out. I want more backyard tricks! My favorite trick I've found so far is pressing control arm bushings in with the weight of a car. Just wedge the control arm underneath the car and then lower your jack. Obviously you have to trust your jack and use some finesse, but it works great.
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Sep 24, 2014 18:41
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Cat Hatter posted:I have that same pan (the first one, except mine has Blitz's name on it instead) and it is indeed complete garbage. I still use it but pour it into a 5 gallon kerosene container because gas/kerosene/diesel cans are the only thing I trust Blitz to make that can actually seal properly. I am interested in trying one of these though since they have a pair of good reviews over at Northern Tool. Quoting myself from earlier because I decided to buy/review the oil drain pan that I linked in that post. I ended up getting it from Advance because its cheaper (and they usually have an internet coupon too). The first thing to note is that this thing is loving enormous:  Even if the seals end up being poo poo, they're all above the surface of the 6 gallon capacity when in storage:  The main plug has a rubber seal in it! It can still be overtightened to the point that it pops back out, but it takes a fair amount of force:  The cap for draining the jug doesn't have a rubber seal, but at least I wasn't able to overtighten it by hand:  This is just after draining 6 quarts out of my Jeep. Features worth noting include the ridge for draining oil filters, the area for storing the main cap, four drain holes that allow max drain speed but still keep dropped oil plugs from falling in or even clogging the drain, and the two rectangular cut outs on the side are for oil plug storage (I'd already put the plug back in the engine). These cutouts are all duplicated on the bottom so you can stack several containers if you own a shop or are crazy:  I'd feel better about reviewing this thing if I had about 4.5 more gallons of oil to bring it closer to the maximum capacity. Never mind, I found some:  Yeah. Take it all, you filthy bitch:  Now to hold the whole thing upside down for a few minutes and check for leaks:  Success! No leaks from anything, not even the tiny air vent cap. Cardboard R. Lee Ermey approves. 
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Sep 25, 2014 04:27
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one of these and a 5 gallon gas/diesel/kerosene can is the best way to go.
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Sep 25, 2014 05:54
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iForge posted:one of these and a 5 gallon gas/diesel/kerosene can is the best way to go. Thats basically what I used to do (except not with a $50 drain pan  ) but a pan that is also a sealable container removes the need to pour the pan into something else for transport and cuts down on the cleaning needed to store the pan vertically. It isn't a huge deal, but it adds up over time.
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Sep 25, 2014 06:23
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Cat Hatter posted:Thats basically what I used to do (except not with a $50 drain pan Yeah I have that yellow pan and I know I didn't pay that much. Sears also lists a 4 pack of an identical pan with a different brand name for $47 so that listing can't be right.
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Sep 25, 2014 06:33
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There's always the good ole standby: http://www.harborfreight.com/oil-pan-with-spout-69467.html
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Sep 25, 2014 07:27
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I go through that much loving oil I have a field of 20L drums that I fill up then take down the local mechanics where he recycles it for me. I've been tempted to just dump it back into an empty 44 gallon drum that my Delo 400 comes in, but then I need to work out how to handle a 250KG drum of old oil and get rid of it. i use a 15L drain pan with spout. Mostly because the engine in the landcruiser holds 11.5L of oil.
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Sep 25, 2014 07:48
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Raluek posted:There's always the good ole standby: I used to use this and a funnel to refill the quart jugs I had just emptied into my engine. Huge pain in the rear end, especially if you have to clean it out so you can store it on its side to decrease its footprint. I understand that different people use/prefer different methods of oil disposal and there is no solution that is perfect for everybody. The reason I posted that review is so that the lazy people who prefer their oil pan to also be a container finally have an oil pan that doesn't leak oil all over your car. It doesn't hurt that my old 5 gallon jug could only fit 3 oil changes and this new pan does 4 since I have 2 cars and try to change their oil at the same time.
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Sep 25, 2014 08:31
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Cat Hatter posted:I used to use this and a funnel to refill the quart jugs I had just emptied into my engine. Huge pain in the rear end, especially if you have to clean it out so you can store it on its side to decrease its footprint. Thank you very much for that, it was a good review. Even though I can put the leaky one on my flatbed and drive it down only about a mile, I still hate getting oil on it.
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Sep 25, 2014 15:51
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 This one works pretty well. Though the drain cap can easily pop off the threads if you overtighten it. I used to have this Blitz one:  and it was terrible the green cap would never screw on right.
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Sep 25, 2014 18:02
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Got a harbor freight rotary today(dremel). So far it looks like a nice stout little tool. Dug into the lower control arm on my honda pretty well.
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Sep 27, 2014 01:20
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Got a harbor freight rotary today(dremel). So far it looks like a nice stout little tool. Dug into the lower control arm on my honda pretty well. 
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Sep 27, 2014 02:06
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Is that the attempted murder I posted in the horrible car poo poo thread?
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Sep 27, 2014 02:39
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Sep 27, 2014 03:21
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What's terrifying is the not one, not two, but three tries it took whoever to find the narrowest point in the arm. E and its almost like they want the arm to crumple inward toward the cuts before it actually shears... EE: Never attribute to malice what can be explained by stupidity. spookykid fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Sep 27, 2014 |
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Sep 27, 2014 05:27
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I don't understand, what are they trying to accomplish?
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Sep 27, 2014 18:50
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That's a control arm, IIRC it was brought in to a shop like that and found by the servicing mechanic. Someone was attempting to murder someone, because the thought is that it wouldn't let go at low speed, but over time would break at higher speeds, causing a possibly fatal crash.
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Sep 27, 2014 19:10
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Just used these today, and good lord it was like going from a Denny's to a 5 star steakhouse. I mean, they are no Daniels modular pin crimper, but for automotive splice/terminal applications, they are perfect.
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Sep 28, 2014 04:32
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Ratcheting crimpers are great and have their place, but man, once you go hydraulic, you never want to go back.
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Sep 28, 2014 05:42
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I am that guy that crimps stuff using pliers. Luckily it's random poo poo around the house and not critical applications.
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Sep 28, 2014 05:53
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Dannywilson posted:Just used these today, and good lord it was like going from a Denny's to a 5 star steakhouse. I mean, they are no Daniels modular pin crimper, but for automotive splice/terminal applications, they are perfect. I used to work for Daniels/DMC! And I have posted int his thread a few times under various names about what everyone should know about crimping stuff.
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Sep 28, 2014 06:07
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mod sassinator posted:I am that guy that crimps stuff using pliers. Luckily it's random poo poo around the house and not critical applications. Dude, WTF, please never do electrical work on any car I am going to buy  Also: doing that with 120v stuff around the house is asking for an electrocution or fire when it falls apart somehow, so hopefully it isn't line powered stuff.
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Sep 28, 2014 14:51
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kastein posted:Dude, WTF, please never do electrical work on any car I am going to buy What he said. So very stupid and unsafe and just lazy. You can get ratcheting crimpers that crimp RBY terminals really well for $10 at harbor freight.
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Sep 28, 2014 19:39
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CarForumPoster posted:I used to work for Daniels/DMC! And I have posted int his thread a few times under various names about what everyone should know about crimping stuff. I use DMC stuff exclusively at work. Good drat crimpers.
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Sep 28, 2014 19:39
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CarForumPoster posted:What he said. So very stupid and unsafe and just lazy. You can get ratcheting crimpers that crimp RBY terminals really well for $10 at harbor freight. I have had really bad luck with that one, either they've taken a turn for the worse or I got three lemons in a row.
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Sep 28, 2014 19:50
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Splizwarf posted:I have had really bad luck with that one, either they've taken a turn for the worse or I got three lemons in a row. Maybe I got lucky, I bought mine back in ~2009. Still works, though I only use it to make a dozen crimps a year probably. Dannywilson posted:I use DMC stuff exclusively at work. Good drat crimpers. Given the size and age of the company they take quality and reliability very, very seriously. Great group of people, very much a family company. Not uncommon to meet people who have been there 15+ years.
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Sep 28, 2014 20:53
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I finally got around to taking a picture of my Wilton vise. It is a 1949 model if I remember correctly. Water bottle for scale.
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Sep 28, 2014 22:06
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iForge posted:I finally got around to taking a picture of my Wilton vise. It is a 1949 model if I remember correctly. Water bottle for scale. I wish mine was that nice...  That's a 4x4 behind it. Note the lack of a handle, and the cracked rear end. I removed the jaws for more room for leverage. It's still stuck.
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Sep 28, 2014 23:47
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Start soaking it in ATF yet? 
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Sep 29, 2014 02:10
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