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Spookydonut posted:How keen are you on assembling one yourself? However, having to source together random parts from various places is a hassle that drags projects on for me, so if I need to assemble it myself, having a ready-to-go kit would be clutch in that case.
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Sep 26, 2014 15:08
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Rostok max?
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Sep 26, 2014 15:26
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I'll throw out a recommendation for the SeeMeCNC Rostock Max: http://seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit I know two people that bought them about a year ago. There were some assembly issues (unclear instructions, injection molded pieces that needed a lot of sanding to fit just right), but once put together and dialed in, they seem to be solid, reasonably reliable printers. They use standard hobby printer electronics, so they aren't too bad to modify and upgrade, if that's your thing. I haven't looked seriously into kits since last year, though, so this might be a dated recommendation.
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Sep 26, 2014 15:29
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Oh, also, I guess I should have put it in the OP: printing ABS is a requirement. Haven't looked at that rostock yet but if it supports ABS, great.
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Sep 26, 2014 15:32
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Can I plug a local guy? ONI H-Bot: http://www.onitechnology.com/ Kit is $1k. It's fast (150mm/sec print speeds) and high resolution (I've seen him use 0.08 layers without issue). I think they're shipping with Hexagon hotends now too, so polycarbonate is on the list!
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Sep 26, 2014 15:50
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, also, I guess I should have put it in the OP: printing ABS is a requirement. Haven't looked at that rostock yet but if it supports ABS, great. The stock hot end supports both PLA and ABS. It maxes out around 230 C so printing some of the more "exotic" materials such as nylon and polycarbonate are out of the question. But it is easy to upgrade to other hot ends that will. As with any delta style printer, calibration takes a little more work than other types of 3d printer.
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Sep 26, 2014 16:22
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stevewm posted:As with any delta style printer, calibration takes a little more work than other types of 3d printer. Am I going to find myself recalibrating every print, or is this like a once every couple months kind of thing? Also: not a requirement? But dual heads would be nice, for different colors/filament types (water soluble supports sounds awesome) Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Sep 26, 2014 |
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Sep 26, 2014 16:44
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Cheekio posted:To contribute to non-makerbot bashing news, I ran out of my ugly yellow PLA (first roll I've finished) and now the only PLA I have is the glow in the dark stuff which doesn't stick well to the build plate. I'm waffling between just figuring out how to print everything glow in the dark now, ordering more pla, or making the jump to ABS and finding out if my office can handle the fumes. So far in the office which I work in ABS fumes from our Replicator 2x have not been an issue. For that printer we use makerbot filament and generally feedback from other people in different offices has been that the smell tends to depend on the filament color and the brand. We also have a good HVAC system so your experiences could also be radically different. We just purchased a TAZ and do not have a much run time on it, but for the few small parts we have run on it the smell has not been an issue.
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Sep 26, 2014 18:31
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It's not just you, I printed exclusively in ABS until my Makerbot became a complete doorstop. I never had an issue with fumes, it only ever smelled "hot". Then again I never played the "chase the cheapest mystery filament I can possibly find anywhere" game either so v  v Not that I know for sure whether anyone else did, but it seems to be side activity #1 right alongside fiddling endlessly with slicer, etc settings.
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Sep 26, 2014 19:46
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, also, I guess I should have put it in the OP: printing ABS is a requirement. Haven't looked at that rostock yet but if it supports ABS, great. See my post history for Rostock issues, but half of those are because I print in PLA, the other half are issues with the lovely Rambo electronics it ships with (which you are probably capable of troublehooting)
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Sep 27, 2014 00:41
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Wondering if anyone knew of a good resource for wargaming terrain to print. Really whatever, but I'm looking at getting into infinity, so particularly sci-fi/near future poo poo (28mm).
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Sep 27, 2014 04:44
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Bad Munki posted:I need a couple propellers for an ROV submarine I've been working on for ages. They'll spin at pretty low RPM and in water so I don't think having them perfectly balanced will be super critical. Does this seem like a reasonable task for a 3D printer? I don't mind doing some post-print work to smooth out the blade surfaces or anything, mostly I'm just looking for a relatively easy way to get a prop that meets my specs (size, pitch, etc.) without going nuts on the investment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QJLIKNrKxI This guy tried that and it didn't work well. He ends up using EDF fans on low KV motors.
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Sep 27, 2014 15:11
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helno posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QJLIKNrKxI What a great link, I'll be sifting through more of that guy's ROV videos as soon as I have the time.
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Sep 27, 2014 20:00
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I keep waking up to find that my Printrbot has stopped feeding material mid print, hovering in the air trying to print above empty space. Where do I even start to troubleshoot this?
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Sep 28, 2014 16:33
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w00tmonger posted:I keep waking up to find that my Printrbot has stopped feeding material mid print, hovering in the air trying to print above empty space. Where do I even start to troubleshoot this? Is the filament bending on the cold end of the extruder? How tight is the extruder motor griping the filament?
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Sep 28, 2014 16:56
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Has the filament been stripped at the extruder? Or is the motor skipping? If the filament is not stripped, can you push it through by hand? PLA?
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Sep 28, 2014 17:07
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, also, I guess I should have put it in the OP: printing ABS is a requirement. Haven't looked at that rostock yet but if it supports ABS, great. A wanhao d4s is a makerbot clone and right on your price range.
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Sep 28, 2014 17:30
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ante posted:Has the filament been stripped at the extruder? Or is the motor skipping? the filament gets a slight indent in it from the was causing the motor extruder. I tried tightening to see if that was the problem and that was catching the motor to skip so u pulled out back. I can push it through by hand, and I'm using pla. Is there a general best set of characteristics I should be looking for when I set the tension?
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Sep 28, 2014 18:16
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w00tmonger posted:the filament gets a slight indent in it from the was causing the motor extruder. I tried tightening to see if that was the problem and that was catching the motor to skip so u pulled out back. There's two likely causes, the extruder gets jammed or the extruder motor/cold end of the extruder is heating up and softening the filament such that it {bends}/{gets stripped by the extruder motor gear}. If the tension is too high the motor might not have the power to pull it (the motor skips), too loose and the gear slips. Keep in mind that all filaments have slight variations in diameter, some more than others. How are you feeling the filament off the spool, is the spool able to spin with no friction?
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Sep 28, 2014 18:35
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Spookydonut posted:There's two likely causes, the extruder gets jammed or the extruder motor/cold end of the extruder is heating up and softening the filament such that it {bends}/{gets stripped by the extruder motor gear}. If it's a heat issue how would I alleviate it. I kind of wonder if this is the case as it isn't an issue right away, usually after a couple hours of me leasing it alone. I can tell when the tension is to tight but is it possible that it's abut the right tension when it starts and the heat changes that as it goes? Right now I'm feeding it off the spool which is sitting on a rod to hold it above the Printrbot. It does make a bit of a screeching noise when it skins so there is done friction. Is there a better method?
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Sep 28, 2014 19:04
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w00tmonger posted:If it's a heat issue how would I alleviate it. I kind of wonder if this is the case as it isn't an issue right away, usually after a couple hours of me leasing it alone. I can tell when the tension is to tight but is it possible that it's abut the right tension when it starts and the heat changes that as it goes? You can try reducing the amperage feeding the extruder motor and/or rig a fan to blow on the cold end of the extruder to keep the filament from softening.
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Sep 28, 2014 19:15
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Spookydonut posted:You can try reducing the amperage feeding the extruder motor and/or rig a fan to blow on the cold end of the extruder to keep the filament from softening. Should I focus on cooling the extruder motor or the gear area?
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Sep 28, 2014 19:31
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w00tmonger posted:Should I focus on cooling the extruder motor or the gear area? To be honest I don't know. The motor is generating the heat but the filament is what needs to stay cool. Most of the designs I see focus on the gear area.
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Sep 28, 2014 20:01
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I think this is why troubleshooting 3D printers is so difficult. There are too many different printer designs, filament variations, and problem areas to think of everything. I can think of at least three possible problems and even more possible solutions right off the top of my head. I wrote up a whole big thing, but that's honestly not too useful if you're not troubleshooting properly. When it stops printing, you can watch the head try to print through the air, yes? All of these should be done while it is still trying to print: Is the problem a jam in the hot end? Can you release the tension of the extruder and try and manually push the filament through the hot end without much force? If no, that is your problem that you have to work on. If yes, what happens when you feed a few cm of filament through and then let the extruder try to do it's thing again? Does it resume printing as it should? If yes, then it is that particular spot of filament, and you have to figure out why (could be the heating issue, could be bad filament, a million other things) If no, why not? Is the motor still trying to move, but skipping/jumping back frequently? That is an issue with not enough current to the motor or tension too tight. Is it powering on through, but shredding the filament? That would point to a hot end jam, but doesn't actually make sense, given that we ruled that out above. The list goes on, the above is not exhaustive in any way
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Sep 28, 2014 20:16
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Welp, the hot end is jammed again. I guess I'm ordering in some fans and hacking together a cooler for my printrbots extruder. It seems kind of insane to me that this would even be possible, I would think cooling would be a pretty simple issue when designing a printer,
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Sep 30, 2014 16:06
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w00tmonger posted:I would think cooling would be a pretty simple issue when designing a printer, There's a reason there's like 50 different hot end designs floating around. It's a hard problem to solve.
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Oct 1, 2014 00:14
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MickRaider posted:Hah! I think that this, and building a reliable 3d printer in general, are less an issue of 'its hard to solve the problem' as 'its hard to solve the problem in a way that is not prohibitively expensive and heavy (which translates to slow print speeds)'. I mean if someone were to take a CNC bridgeport mill, enclose the whole thing in a temperature controlled box, also include a heated bed made of glass (temperature controlled), put a water jacket cooled extruder (also temperature controlled)on the end of it I have every expectation that that would make for reliable prints pretty much every time- it would also cost in excess of 20,000 to put together, be so heavy as to be immovable, and have an abysmally slow print speed. Note: when I say temperature controlled I mean via a good feedback system that is using at least two sourcing elements rather then a simple 'we put a thermistor on it' method. I have been tempted to put my foot into the 'build my own 3d printer' waters by starting with a CNC cutting gantry that is capable of working on soft metals (aluminum brass etc), and mounting a print head to that- but the difference in speed between your average 3d printer and such a gantry is something like a factor of 10.
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Oct 1, 2014 05:19
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This is the one I've been meaning to make for my printrbot.
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Oct 1, 2014 05:24
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Below a certain point, printing slowly will decrease print quality. The nozzle will blob or ooze. I don't run any of my machines slower than 40mm/s, and one I keep near 100mm/s. I don't think a screw based gantry can do that without being either prohibitively extensive or shredding itself.
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Oct 1, 2014 05:30
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Ball screws can easily do 100mm/s if they're built for speed. All it takes is a high pitch screw, a servo with enough torque to spin it, and a base solid enough to resist the torque. This one is rapiding at 20m/m(~330mm/s). Of course, dollar for dollar you can always go faster with a belt drive or parallel arm.
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Oct 1, 2014 06:33
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Exactly, nothing in that video looked like something I could afford.
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Oct 1, 2014 13:37
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Ball screws would be fantastic for a 3d printer if someone could make a set for below $100 at a length beyond 8" That and I still don't know how I feel about 8mm thread pitch. Linux Assassin posted:
Water jacket cooled extruder: http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=66 (the kraken is also water cooled) and his crazy amazing printer: http://forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=66#p553 But yeah, I'd guess 20k is the pricetag on that.
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Oct 1, 2014 23:33
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This counts as a 3d printer, right?
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Oct 2, 2014 07:15
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This is my jury-rigged "let's get the heated bed working" setup. My biggest fear was the relay constantly clicking on and off but the PID loop is actually very good.  Aaaand the heatbed is turned on.  ...  oh dear this is not a great power supply.Edit: Holy poo poo this is great, no more warped PLA prints. Now to test the ABS I bought. Spookydonut fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 11:51
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oxbrain posted:This counts as a 3d printer, right? I think you'd call that a 3rd dimension plotter
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Oct 2, 2014 18:37
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MickRaider posted:Ball screws would be fantastic for a 3d printer if someone could make a set for below $100 at a length beyond 8" Try https://www.igus.co.uk/wpck/3810/DryLin_Trapezgewindespindel for 10x2mm shaft max length 1m, @ £9ish per metre. They also do matching nuts, blocks and bearings out of their magic plastics, not to mention a thousand other sizes, and they're very generous with samples. Windespindel 
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Oct 3, 2014 12:38
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My very first printer arrived yesterday, the Printrbot Simple Metal. Everything I read suggested it would be a solid start for making trinkets for myself with a minimum of hardware struggles and only moderate software troubles. The online guide for getting started was a bit misleading at first, it was done in a Mac and I'm working on PC so the example windows didn't line up exactly. I eventually decided to just run before I could crawl and loaded up the alignment cube and pulled the trigger. Result was essentially perfect. I fired off a Star Trek badge and finally a kitty, which was the longest print time so far at an hour. The ears didn't quite finish printing for some reason but otherwise looks pretty good. Happy so far! I'm going to order more plastic and maybe give Cura a try before I attempt something more elaborate.
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Oct 3, 2014 14:00
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Cakefool posted:Try https://www.igus.co.uk/wpck/3810/DryLin_Trapezgewindespindel for 10x2mm shaft max length 1m, @ £9ish per metre. They also do matching nuts, blocks and bearings out of their magic plastics, not to mention a thousand other sizes, and they're very generous with samples. So hard to find actual ball screws
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Oct 3, 2014 16:12
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MickRaider posted:Lead screw :\ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310263 Would this thing have enough accuracy, do you think? edit: Holy crap. Real ballscrews are like $30/ft, and ballnuts are like $80 per! In the smallest sizes! That is, in fact, insanity. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 17:11
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Yeah the nut and screw are prohibitively expensive. It's kinda ludicrous. One of my forum members found someone on Alibaba that would make a custom length set for $300 Don't remember if that was per or for both. Either way wtf
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Oct 3, 2014 18:59
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