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Gotta say, the picnic cooler is pretty amazing for holding a consistent mash temp.
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Sep 26, 2014 04:22
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ScaerCroe posted:?What is your favorite yeast for Scottish 60/- beers? I have made Jamil's 60/- recipe (the version with all the specialty malts) with US-05 and it gave me a lovely sweet brown ale. I wouId avoid everything about that recipe but that's just me. As for yeast I generally just use whatever English strain is my favorite at the time. My standards are Wyeast London Ale III and Wyeast 1968 London ESB.
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Sep 26, 2014 09:19
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ScaerCroe posted:?What is your favorite yeast for Scottish 60/- beers? I like WLP028, Edinburgh Scottish Ale just fine.
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Sep 26, 2014 13:52
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Josh Wow posted:I have made Jamil's 60/- recipe (the version with all the specialty malts) with US-05 and it gave me a lovely sweet brown ale. I wouId avoid everything about that recipe but that's just me. As for yeast I generally just use whatever English strain is my favorite at the time. My standards are Wyeast London Ale III and Wyeast 1968 London ESB. Thanks to both Joshes for the response. I am so surprised at this, as I thought for a small beer with an attenuative yeast it would just dry the crap out of it and you would have no leftover sweetness, even with a super high mash temp.
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Sep 26, 2014 14:27
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There are very low levels of hopping in Scottish beers, so even if they attenuate, they end up pretty sweet.
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Sep 26, 2014 14:42
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Finally got around to bottling the brown ale I made using the Mangrove Jacks Newcastle dark ale. I got 80% attenuation (high vs list), but that may because I mashed a bit lower. 1.056 1.011 Drank the hydro sample flat and I really liked it. A little less hops than I wanted due to boil issues (CO alarm went off), But it's actually a good balance, so maybe it was a blessing as it matches the style pretty well to me at least. The real test will come when my father in law tries it. He likes BMC light and a brown ale from a small local brewery. I'm hoping to match/ beat the Small local in terms of approval rating.
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Sep 26, 2014 16:35
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Anyone ever done an English bitter? I'm going to do one all grain but I'm not sure what temps to use. Pale 2-Row (UK)10.0 lb British Crystal 25L1.0 lb Biscuit (BE)0.75 lb East Kent Golding (UK)2.0 oz 60 min Fuggle (UK)1.0 oz 30 min
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Sep 26, 2014 16:55
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Adult Sword Owner posted:Anyone ever done an English bitter? I'm going to do one all grain but I'm not sure what temps to use.
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Sep 26, 2014 17:26
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Syrinxx posted:English ales are almost all I do (not that it makes me a bad rear end but I have done a lot of them). I mash at 151-152. I usually ferment very cool, 64-65F, with Wyeast 1469 or 1275. Also you may want to move those Fuggles to 5 minutes. Any experience with 1968? Its even got ESB in the name  Yeh I'll reduce the Fuggles to just aromatic
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Sep 26, 2014 17:30
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ScaerCroe posted:?What is your favorite yeast for Scottish 60/- beers? I recently did 70/- with WLP002 and WLP004, a 10 gallon batch fermented separately. Wanted WLP028 but LHBS happened to be out the day I stopped by (some jerk bout them out earlier in the day). Kegged 3 gallons of each and blended 4 gallons. All are yummy, but the 002 was my favorite.
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Sep 26, 2014 19:00
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Adult Sword Owner posted:Any experience with 1968? Its even got ESB in the name 1968 is the same as WLP002, goes fast, gives some nice fruitiness, leaves a little residual sweetness, floccs like a rock. The starter will look like egg drop soup, and if by day 4 you can't read the newspaper through your carboy something went wrong.
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Sep 26, 2014 20:31
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more falafel please posted:1968 is the same as WLP002, goes fast, gives some nice fruitiness, leaves a little residual sweetness, floccs like a rock. The starter will look like egg drop soup, and if by day 4 you can't read the newspaper through your carboy something went wrong. Sweet, going to brew with that tomorrow. Speaking of, I'm also on the lookout for a best bitter/ESB recipe. Except I'd like to brew mine BIAB. I know Jo3sh's Colt Best Bitter gets a lot of love here. Might adapt that to a 4-ish gallon BIAB.
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Sep 27, 2014 16:46
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more falafel please posted:The starter will look like egg drop soup For reference
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Sep 27, 2014 17:17
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I just found out a keg of my beer has been requested at an event tonight. I don't have any kegs with more than a gallon or two in them at the moment, but I do have a batch that's been waiting to be kegged for some time. Is there any chance I can make it ready enough in the next 7 hours? I know you can over-pressure the beer when it's chilled and speed-carb it, but I never know what a good pressure is to make that work. Also, the beer is not yet cold. So I'm thinking maybe submerge the keg in an ice bath, under extra-high pressure, like maybe 40-60psi? Higher? If anyone's done this before, feel free to chime in.
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Sep 27, 2014 17:44
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ice bath to chill, 30-40psi and shake it or roll it on the ground while the gas is on. It's not pretty but it can get you there. http://byo.com/stories/issue/item/56-3-ways-to-carbonate-your-keg-techniques
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Sep 27, 2014 17:55
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Right, agitation, forgot to put that on my short list. Man, how the heck am I going to get anywhere near the right amount of CO2 dissolved in, though. I feel like it's absolutely destined to be way too much or way too little.
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Sep 27, 2014 18:10
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My standard procedure is to chill to 38ish, set the pressure at 30psi and rock back and forth on my lap for 2 minutes. It gets me pretty close every time.
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Sep 27, 2014 18:42
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Two minutes? Wha? That's it? The stuff I've read has the keg getting agitated every 20 minutes for a while. Or is that supposed to be at a lower pressure, and when doing it at higher pressure, you just need a brief dissolving period?
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Sep 27, 2014 18:59
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I don't do it often, but the last time I did, I overcarbed.
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Sep 27, 2014 19:47
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Two weeks ago I brewed up a stout for the first time, using WLP Irish Ale Yeast. Normally I would be thinking about bottling in the next couple days, but this thing is still fermenting. (Still bubbling every 10 minutes or so.) Is this just the yeast taking its sweet rear end time? How long do I need to leave it after it finally stops? ocrumsprug fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Sep 27, 2014 |
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Sep 27, 2014 20:38
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All right, I got the keg down to 40 degrees, pushed the pressure up to 40psi, laid it down and agitated it around for a few minutes, let it settle briefly, blew off the excess pressure and put it back to serving pressure (like 12psi) and now it's sitting in the ice bath settling out for the next few hours under serving pressure. We'll see how it goes.
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Sep 27, 2014 20:45
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Bad Munki posted:Right, agitation, forgot to put that on my short list. I don't think you can actually have a keg ready by tonight unless the beer is already cold, but I'll write this up anyway to help out others and explain how it can be done. This is your bible: http://www.zahmnagel.com/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=HuVGZ8tLaow%3D&tabid=81 So let's say you're going to be serving your beer at 38* and you're targeting a CO2 level of 2.65 so you need about 13 pounds of pressure to get there. That chart is for beer at equilibrium, so if your beer is at 2.65 vol and 38*F then 13 PSI of top pressure will keep it there. This means you need to jam 13 lbs of pressure into your beer. To do this quickly your only option is to shake the poo poo out of your keg with lots of top pressure. The problem most people have with this method is knowing how long to shake and at what pressure to get the right CO2 level. There is no answer for this since different amounts of force when shaking will allow different amounts of CO2 to be absorbed. What you have to do is shake it for a little bit, then check the level of CO2 that has been absorbed. Chill the beer that's being transferred to your desired temperature. If your beer is at room temp this can take 12+ hours to make sure it's fully chilled. Purge your keg with CO2 before you do this since this process will jam oxygen into your beer just as quickly as CO2. Once you have the beer kegged and you purge your headspace you'll be ready to carbonate. Turn your regulator up to 20-30 psi and put on a timer for 30 seconds. Shake the poo poo out of your keg the whole time then stop and turn your regulator all the way down. Continue shaking your keg and you'll see the pressure gauge on your regulator start to drop. Once it no longer drops no matter how hard you shake your keg that's the level of CO2 in your beer. Now you should have a rough idea of how much CO2 will be absorbed and how quickly so you can shake again at 20-30 psi and retest your equilibrium pressure until you are fully carbonated. After this you just have to let your keg sit at the proper temperature for a few hours so it can settle down and everything can equalize. I do this everytime I keg and my beer is always ready the next day at the correct carbonation levels. I've taken samples 3-4 hours after I kegged and it's been good, just cloudy. If I wait until the next day I throw out one pint of sludge and then am pouring clear beer after that.
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Sep 27, 2014 20:58
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Well, the beer was cold before I attempted to carb it thanks to the ice bath, so there's at least that. I might see what happens if I pour some in about an hour and then go from there. I already told the hosts of the event from the get-go that they should absolutely have a backup plan, so no harm if it doesn't work, but I'll still do my best. 
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Sep 27, 2014 21:02
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ocrumsprug posted:Two weeks ago I brewed up a stout for the first time, using WLP Irish Ale Yeast. Normally I would be thinking about bottling in the next couple days, but this thing is still fermenting. (Still bubbling every 10 minutes or so.) The only way to be sure is to check the gravity a few times and make sure it is stable.
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Sep 28, 2014 00:38
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So I knocked over my burner today! With 5 minutes left on my boil! First chance I have had to brew in 6 months and I blew it, so that is pretty cool.  Anyhow, I now have a smacked pack of yeast that I won't be using today. Activating the pack shouldn't negatively affect the yeast right? Like I can feasibly use it next weekend and it should be fine? Also, anybody have any good ideas to use up 4 oz. of centennial and maybe an ounce of Northern Brewer?
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Sep 28, 2014 01:32
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bengy81 posted:
Just chuck it into the freezer for when you rebrew
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Sep 28, 2014 01:45
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bengy81 posted:Also, anybody have any good ideas to use up 4 oz. of centennial and maybe an ounce of Northern Brewer?
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Sep 28, 2014 02:47
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Well, time for me to throw more money down a hole and get a kettle with a ball valve on it. My question is, would it be reasonable to rely on a bazooka screen to filter out pellet hops (at least to the degree that I could successfully transfer the beer out of the kettle without much interference) or do I need some additional filtering like a hop spider? One of my end goals is to move to a plate chiller setup and I definitely need a ball valve to make that reasonable.
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Sep 28, 2014 15:37
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crazyfish posted:Well, time for me to throw more money down a hole and get a kettle with a ball valve on it. My question is, would it be reasonable to rely on a bazooka screen to filter out pellet hops (at least to the degree that I could successfully transfer the beer out of the kettle without much interference) or do I need some additional filtering like a hop spider? One of my end goals is to move to a plate chiller setup and I definitely need a ball valve to make that reasonable. Just from my personal experience (on a bigger, non-homebrew setup, mind) you would want something extra to not clog the chiller.
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Sep 28, 2014 15:44
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Yeah, a bazooka screen will clog in about three seconds with pellets. Mine even gets clogged by cold break sometimes. I don't know about whole leaf though because I always use a bag with them.
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Sep 28, 2014 16:10
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I brewed 5 gallons with 2oz of pellets in it yesterday and it ran through my screen just fine. In fact I've never had an issue with the bazooka clogging before. The closest I've gotten was a slow down when I brewed a pale ale with a bunch of hops. But 4oz or under has never been an issue for me. Though I should mention I have a 10 gallon kettle with a long bazooka screen in it. I could see a smaller screen getting clogged easily. deedee megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Sep 28, 2014 |
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Sep 28, 2014 16:22
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I know my LHBS will toss a ball valve on an existing kettle for a very reasonable price, so you might want to investigate that possibility before dropping the dollars on a fancy kettle.
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Sep 28, 2014 17:11
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I use a plate chiller without a filter and have never had clogging problems, just do a good whirlpool.
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Sep 28, 2014 22:45
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My Bazooka used to clog all the drat time with pellets, but was fine with leaf. There must be some kind of variation in the screen mesh or something. Oh, and I gave up using a plate chiller because it got stopped up with goop. I'm on a tube-in-tube counterflow chiller now.
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Sep 29, 2014 03:31
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God damnit. Anyone had a long lag time with WLP 002? Threw it into my ESB last night, nothing yet in the morning, 12h later. One fresh vial, og 1050, 4 gallons. Should I pick up a backup yeast today?
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Sep 29, 2014 09:38
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Did you oxygenate? I'd wait 12 more hours at least before worrying too much
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Sep 29, 2014 11:52
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Jerome Louis posted:Did you oxygenate? I'd wait 12 more hours at least before worrying too much My usual aeration which has been ok in the past. No oxygen injection or anything fancy like that.
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Sep 29, 2014 12:06
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Brewing 19L of an APA on Wednesday and I'm going to boost the grain to grind enough for an extra 3L in a Carlo Rossi bottle. Then pull out and add some pumpkin for a small boil. How many points does pumpkin usually add? Guess if I'm not mashing... Nothing? What can I throw molasses in? Porters? Pumpkin? Christmas ales?
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Sep 29, 2014 14:10
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DontAskKant posted:What can I throw molasses in? Porters? Pumpkin? Christmas ales? An Old Ale is the classic showcase of molasses. A brown ale might be nice too.
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Sep 29, 2014 17:01
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crazyfish posted:An Old Ale is the classic showcase of molasses. A brown ale might be nice too. Seconding the old ale. I have a recipe I developed overseas that works really nicely with molasses.
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Sep 29, 2014 17:02
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