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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Can anyone ID this tree? I saw it when I was running some errands earlier, and I don't think I've ever seen one like it before. The fruits are about golf ball sized or maybe a bit larger, and spiny. They looked kind of like green rambutans, almost hairy. Not at all like the fruit from a sweetgum. This is in the Willamette Valley in Oregon.
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Sep 23, 2014 22:51
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Looks like a black walnut tree from this distance, although I wouldn't call their fruit spiny.
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Sep 23, 2014 23:31
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The leaves look about right, but the fruits don't. These were about the size of just the the walnut without the fleshy outside part. Is that typical for a walnut this time of year, or is there maybe a related species with smaller fruits?
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Sep 23, 2014 23:49
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The picture is a little blurry for both leaf and fruit detail but it could be a chestnut.
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Sep 24, 2014 01:02
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Horse chestnut.
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Sep 24, 2014 02:37
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Yeah, sorry about the poor quality. I was driving out of the parking lot at my doctor's office at the time and just snapped one real quick. Either horse chestnut or one of the true chestnuts is a possibility. I'll try to remember to ask next time I go in.
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Sep 24, 2014 03:12
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I'm not sure... Chestnuts and black walnuts are both fairly upright trees, and they don't form clumps like that. Were the fruits hairy?
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Sep 24, 2014 04:07
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kid sinister posted:I'm not sure... Chestnuts and black walnuts are both fairly upright trees, and they don't form clumps like that. Were the fruits hairy? They appeared to be, but I was at least 8-10 feet away from it. Like I said, they reminded me a lot of rambutans, but they could have been more bristly like a chestnut casing is.
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Sep 24, 2014 04:15
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If he's in the PNW, the sort of growth wouldn't be too uncommon, especially combined with a poor planting area. I would put money on it being some sort of Aesculus.
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Sep 24, 2014 12:35
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stubblyhead posted:Can anyone ID this tree? I saw it when I was running some errands earlier, and I don't think I've ever seen one like it before. I'm thinking its one of the asian chestnuts, something like Chinese chestnut or Japanese chestnut. Similar leaves to the other chestnut species and very spiny fruit (like a ball of needles).
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Sep 25, 2014 09:17
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I've recently acquired a sundew (Drosera capensis)which is my first sundew and I am a little worried about over feeding it. As you can see in the picture below it has caught itself a large number gnats that have come out of some seedling pots near bye. Is this going to be a problem for the plant, should I try and remove some of the gnats? 
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Sep 26, 2014 05:33
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General Apathy posted:I've recently acquired a sundew (Drosera capensis)which is my first sundew and I am a little worried about over feeding it. Nope, he'll be fine. Gnats are good food for them. They're tiny, so they digest fast and don't have time to rot or mold. Try to keep the humidity up, it'll help the tentacles stay sticky. Is that a ghost capensis?
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Sep 27, 2014 11:52
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Hello thread, last year quite a few of my plants nearly died due to leatherjackets and their chums munching away the roots - could you recommend something I could treat them with when I bring them in for the winter?
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Sep 28, 2014 17:15
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Sun Dog posted:Nope, he'll be fine. Gnats are good food for them. They're tiny, so they digest fast and don't have time to rot or mold. Try to keep the humidity up, it'll help the tentacles stay sticky. Thanks for the info. If ghost is another name for albino or alba as this one was called, then yeah. It has the clear dew and no red pigmentation at all.
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Sep 29, 2014 02:31
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Actually, in high enough light conditions D. capensis 'Albino' develops pink tentacles. It's really cute.
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Sep 30, 2014 07:57
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My Maranta has some flaky white stuff growing on the top of the soil. Same with my catnip plant. Is it mold, and how do I treat it? I am worried my plants are gonna die. Bina fucked around with this message at 09:01 on Oct 2, 2014 |
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Oct 2, 2014 08:54
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Bina posted:My Maranta has some flaky white stuff growing on the top of the soil. Same with my catnip plant. Is it mold, and how do I treat it? How hard is your water? That could just be salt.
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Oct 4, 2014 17:45
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kid sinister posted:How hard is your water? That could just be salt. If it is salt, would it hurt the plant? I use filtered water to water my plants. (Brita filtered)
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Oct 5, 2014 06:46
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Bina posted:If it is salt, would it hurt the plant? I use filtered water to water my plants. (Brita filtered) Depends on that plant. If you filter it, then it's probably not salt.
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Oct 5, 2014 07:30
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I have some questions about a couple of plants that I have. The first is an aloe vera. About 2 months ago, the leaves started to get droopy and some of the leaves are curling on the ends. I water it every couple of weeks. I live in Colorado, so it gets pretty dry here and I don't water again until it seems like the pot has dried out quite a bit. What am I doing wrong? Here are some pics of the plant.   The second plant that I am wondering about is one of my cacti. I bought it at walmart a little over a month ago. The base has turned brown and soggy, and I have already accepted that I will lose the plant, but it has tiny little buds that look like offshoots growing on it, and I'm wondering if I can save those? I'm not surprised that I'm going to lose it, the selection at the walmart I went to was awful so I'm just happy the other two cacti I bought there are doing ok.  Thanks everyone!
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Oct 8, 2014 23:38
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Sogginess indicates root rot, and likely means a soil with too much organic material. Even most store bought cacti mixes retain too much water. You can cut them more than 50% with something like perlite or pumice and let them really breath. I would repot everything and get them in as much direct sun as possible. Do a flush cut right above the rotten section and pot it up. No reason the plant can't rebound over the next few months.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:02
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Somebody can correct me, but as I understand it, the colored part of the cactus is a strain of cactus that doesn't produce chlorophyll. It's then grafted onto the top of a healthy green cactus so it can get the chlorophyll juices from the other plant. Without the green cactus graft, it doesn't sound like the red shoots can survive.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:20
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unprofessional posted:Do a flush cut right above the rotten section and pot it up. No reason the plant can't rebound over the next few months. The whole base is brown so I don't think I can save it :/ plumper fuckbus posted:Somebody can correct me, but as I understand it, the colored part of the cactus is a strain of cactus that doesn't produce chlorophyll. It's then grafted onto the top of a healthy green cactus so it can get the chlorophyll juices from the other plant. Without the green cactus graft, it doesn't sound like the red shoots can survive. I just did some more research and you're right. I had no idea! It's kind of a bummer cause it means unless I get another base cactus I can't do anything with the little offshoots.
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Oct 9, 2014 04:51
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I've been cutting down this 10 foot long row of Yucca trees, that must be 20-30 years old. Down at the base/root of the plants they are about 3 feet in diameter. What can I spray on the cut trunk to kill the roots? I think glyphosate needs to be sprayed on the leaves, right? Any suggestions of a power tool that would help get rid of these roots/trunks? e: to be clear, this is a 10+ foot long, 3+ foot wide SOLID row of Yucca plants. All I can think of is renting a really long chainsaw. Is there a tool better than this? I've cut them down to about 2 or 3 foot tall stumps. Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Oct 10, 2014 |
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Oct 10, 2014 20:30
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Is fire an option? Don't use it near a building or with any kind of ground cover that could light up, of course, but if you have bare soil, you can burn out a stump pretty effectively.
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Oct 10, 2014 20:37
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Leperflesh posted:Is fire an option? Don't use it near a building or with any kind of ground cover that could light up, of course, but if you have bare soil, you can burn out a stump pretty effectively. Unfortunately no, the row is at the closest part, 4 feet from my house. And it is surrounded by wood chips.
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Oct 10, 2014 21:00
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I've been cutting down this 10 foot long row of Yucca trees, that must be 20-30 years old. Down at the base/root of the plants they are about 3 feet in diameter. What can I spray on the cut trunk to kill the roots? I think glyphosate needs to be sprayed on the leaves, right? The tool is a stump grinder, used to chip up the stump below the soil line. An arborist should be able to advise you on whether that would work or other methods available.
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Oct 10, 2014 23:27
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I've been cutting down this 10 foot long row of Yucca trees, that must be 20-30 years old. Down at the base/root of the plants they are about 3 feet in diameter. What can I spray on the cut trunk to kill the roots? I think glyphosate needs to be sprayed on the leaves, right? As Cpt.Wacky just said, you want a stump grinder. Most tree companies have one, so call around and get multiple quotes. Alternatively, get a chainsaw, cut the stumps close to the ground, and spray them with RoundUp (or similar product). You need to spray the fresh cut immediately after cutting, so do them 1 or 2 at a time. This obviously won't get rid of the stump in the ground, but will kill off the roots and prevent regrowth.
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Oct 11, 2014 03:45
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We always used Tordon to keep stumps from growing back in our pastures. You just spray or paint it on the freshly cut stump and it won't come back guaranteed. Stump grinder might be better if you don't want a huge stump sitting around though.
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Oct 11, 2014 04:16
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Can somebody help me identify this thing? I found it in a botanical garden, and that's literally all i know about it other than the fact it's crazy nuts and i want one. 
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Oct 11, 2014 06:28
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I asked google 'rose shaped succulent' http://www.plantegrassefrontignan.fr/plantes%20grasses%20mediterranennes/anglais/HTML/succulents%205.html http://www.ascotvalegardencentre.com.au/product/aeonium-arboreum/ Looks pretty close?
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Oct 11, 2014 06:34
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That's an Aeonium with a summer rosette. They are winter-growing succulents from the Canary Islands, and during the summer sometimes the rosette gets all closed like that, especially if it's been particularly hot and dry. Once it cools down and rains a bit it will open up and start growing again.
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Oct 11, 2014 09:16
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Cpt.Wacky posted:The tool is a stump grinder, used to chip up the stump below the soil line. An arborist should be able to advise you on whether that would work or other methods available. I was trying to think about a joke involving a stump grinder and strip clubs, but couldn't think of anything. This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
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Oct 12, 2014 01:13
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I've also heard of people having success by cutting the stump as low as possible, then drilling lots of small, deep holes to speed decay. Sounds like you situation is a little more severe.
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Oct 15, 2014 12:32
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Also fill the holes full of roundup
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Oct 16, 2014 07:09
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http://www.spectracide.com/Products-and-Solutions/All-Products/Spectracide-Stump-Remover.aspx We have used this stuff (available at Lowes/Home Depot) three times now with success (two crab apple stumps, and a holly tree.) Be sure to drill holes, and dump this stuff in the holes.
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Oct 17, 2014 14:39
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I just finished the 100th post on my carnivorous plant blog. In celebration I took a picture of every plant in my collection.     Check out the rest of the post here. 
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Oct 17, 2014 23:06
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What can anyone tell me about false aralia? I bought one, and it's just losing leaves like crazy. I have it next to a window with soft light, I keep it misted, no drastic temperature extremes. Any tips? It cost me a fair amount of $ and I'd really like to keep it healthy. Mom had one back in the day and it did fine.
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Oct 18, 2014 01:33
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Planet X posted:What can anyone tell me about false aralia? I bought one, and it's just losing leaves like crazy. I have it next to a window with soft light, I keep it misted, no drastic temperature extremes. Any tips? It cost me a fair amount of $ and I'd really like to keep it healthy. Mom had one back in the day and it did fine. I've had 2 false aralias. Both had the same symptoms as yours and died. I moved on. That plant was probably the most finicky plant I've ever tried, along with lucky rabbit's foot ferns.
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Oct 18, 2014 04:12
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Kenning posted:I just finished the 100th post on my carnivorous plant blog. In celebration I took a picture of every plant in my collection. This is so awesome. I would have a field day at your house.
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Oct 18, 2014 14:45
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