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Lamar Smith R-TX posted:
I'm going to do the same thing to my M Roadster. Where'd you get them? Ebay? I don't care about the chrome, but I want the striping colors.
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Sep 25, 2014 05:36
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| # ? May 27, 2024 09:21 |
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Didn't do anything to it myself, but the auto shop did, by fitting a new OE clutch from Exedy. Now I need to learn how to drive it all over again. The old clutch disc was smooth and down to the rivets on the pressure plate side, and pretty tatty on the flywheel side. Pedal was also stiff as gently caress and only took right at the top of the pedal travel. Now it's so light, it feels like I'm driving a Yaris. Plus the car's a lot quieter and more refined under hard acceleration.
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Sep 25, 2014 12:29
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EightBit posted:My 2000 tj has the factory fluid in the clutch hydraulics, and it's still clear as new fluid. Just saying that it might not need to be changed if you haven't left the cap off. it's a little dark, and it seems to stick a little at the bottom sometimes, when the pedal is to the floor. Being all plastic, there's not too much rust possibility, at least. Bovril Delight posted:I'm so confused about the angle of this truck on the jackstands. ? The camera is at an angle because I was lying on the ground at the time and it was difficult to see the image on the phone. The driveway does slope down towards the street, AND down towards the garage. The chunk of concrete under the stands is the only level spot on my driveway. Is that what you mean? Also, I'd like to gloat for a moment about the complete lack of rust under there: Look at it, ye Northerners, and weep at what you will never have.
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Sep 25, 2014 18:10
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Z3 "Seat Mod" as it's known With the stock mounts, the seats in the Z3 tend to be very flat. Uncomfortable on long hauls, especially for people with long legs. I'm NOT one of those people, but I do feel discomfort occasionally.   ~$17 an assortment of washers, nuts which I absolutely could have hunted for at OSH and saved a couple of bucks. but, factor in gas, hassle, stress.. I think this was the correct choice Just adds about an inch of height on the front... Makes a WORLD of difference. The seating position is now very similar to what I had in my SW20, which I loved and have missed badly. Seat is a lot more supportive now, more "bucket like."
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Sep 26, 2014 08:44
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Hello Spaceman posted:Didn't do anything to it myself, but the auto shop did, by fitting a new OE clutch from Exedy. Now I need to learn how to drive it all over again. Been there a few times. The last Civic I owned had a toasted clutch when I bought it (for a whole $200), and I had to drive it about 20 miles to get home. 4th and 5th were completely useless, as was anything above about 1/100 throttle* (okay slight exaggeration, but it was a serious fight to get it above 35-40, and the 0-30 time was a couple of minutes). Before and after were both serious exercises in re-learning how to drive.
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Sep 26, 2014 09:11
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Today I found burns in the clearcoat that I didn't notice when I picked the car up 9 days ago. I want to die. Time to make the trek back up to the body shop.  More accurately, I saw some weirdness and stupidly assumed it was wax deposits or bird poo poo or... pick a subconscious justification to forget about it. Just washed my car and yeah they aren't going anywhere. Fantastic.
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Sep 26, 2014 13:40
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Not today, but last week I bought and installed a Sprint Booster on my 2009 Mercedes SL550. Holy poo poo,what a difference. When the green light is on, it is noticeably more responsive, with the red light on it is almost scary. http://www.sprintboosterusa.com/ Tim-may!!! fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Sep 27, 2014 |
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Sep 26, 2014 19:15
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Adjusting the valve clearances on my Ford Ka, was starting to make a bit too much noise. Only the #4 cylinder valves were somewhat near the specs, others were way off. Also installed a new gasket at the same time.
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Sep 27, 2014 15:09
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Funny thing when we adjusted the valve clearances on my Integra - we found the exhaust valves to be too tight by a decent amount and so the engine got a little noisier but started idling smoother and taking off more easily. Been that way for years near as we could tell.
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Sep 27, 2014 23:46
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I should probably have checked the clearances on the junkyard engine I put in the Protege while I had the valve cover off, but that engine uses shim-type adjustment so... meh. They're hydraulic lifters, but there is still a spec... whatever, probably overthinking it.
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Sep 27, 2014 23:51
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New rear axle shafts finally came in!   Quite a difference from stock, and no more clicking noises!  
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Sep 28, 2014 04:50
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A new mirror on the passenger side, and a second cargo light on the headache rack. Hoping two points of light will be more useful, I was always in a shadow with one.
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Sep 28, 2014 05:51
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Panty Saluter posted:Funny thing when we adjusted the valve clearances on my Integra - we found the exhaust valves to be too tight by a decent amount and so the engine got a little noisier but started idling smoother and taking off more easily. Been that way for years near as we could tell. I had my Old Ford Guy adjust my truck last time I happened to bring it to him, and it was sooo much smoother. I don't know how I never noticed that poo poo was out of whack.
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Sep 28, 2014 06:55
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Replaced the valve cover gasket on my 135i, it was leaking pretty bad. Since the valve cover is also the PCV system it was causing weird idle problems and excessive blow by. Took me about 3 hours, was much worse than I expected. The guide I used was for a 335i which has a bit more room in the engine bay so some of the bolts I had to get to required ridiculous angles to get to.
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Sep 28, 2014 17:55
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I continued dicking around with my Camry since after replacing the ignition coil didn't make it start. I finally realized that while the engine was turning over, the distributor was not spinning, so I took a look behind the timing belt cover, and sure enough, it was broken. So that ends the work I'm able to do on the side of the road in front of my apartment.
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Sep 28, 2014 18:29
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Geirskogul posted:I can't turn it off! Even with the "music off"-jumper activated. That's what we call a 'feature', son.
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Sep 28, 2014 22:01
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Pulled the B230 and M47 out of the 244, now to prep the car for the new drivetrain. I won't disclose what that is yet, probably going to do up a thread for this soon. Imgur is being a cock, so just pretend I posted a picture of the old drivetrain on the ground with a blurry middle finger somewhere in the corner. edit: hey it finally went through 
Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Sep 29, 2014 |
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Sep 28, 2014 23:23
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Installed a tachometer in the International. Took a bit longer as I had trouble finding a good source of power. I quit before I got the illumination wire though so I didn't get all I wanted out of it, since it's nighttime now. I also upset myself by looking at the fuse panel. I realize now there is an open spot and an easy place to wire my clearance lights to (the fuse marked clear). So it looks like next week I'll be buying a fuse and redoing that. While I'm at it I can get the illumination wire by tying it into that circuit.
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Sep 29, 2014 03:19
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Deeters posted:I continued dicking around with my Camry since after replacing the ignition coil didn't make it start. I finally realized that while the engine was turning over, the distributor was not spinning, so I took a look behind the timing belt cover, and sure enough, it was broken. So that ends the work I'm able to do on the side of the road in front of my apartment. Ouch. 94, right? You should be able to escape without engine damage, most of the Toyota engines of that vintage were non-interference. The shop will likely want to do the water pump, cam seals, and front crank seal at the same time, along with the tensioner for the timing belt. Accessory belts (or serpentine belt) should be on that list as well, and probably the valve cover gasket(s). It's been years since I had a timing belt job done, but IIRC it should run about $500-600 with labor for the 4 cylinder. V6 will probably be a little more. Not trying to scare you, but doing all of that extra stuff is normally done with the timing belt. Do all that, enjoy another 100k+ from it.
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Sep 29, 2014 07:01
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Got the headlight wiper washer working again. yay? With the hose off the pump just made a weird surge-y noise for a bit before it self primed or something and shot out a nice et of water. Don't know what its deal was. I do know all the metal bits for the pump have already turned to rust. Damnit  That's what killed the original one.
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Sep 29, 2014 14:12
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I installed airbags to bolster my sagging rear end.... With just a couple hundred pounds, the rear of my car would start to drop. With a motorcycle in the back, I would be dragging the exhaust. I used the bags that go inside the springs, and aired up my shocks. Let it sit for a couple of days, drove it around town... success! The bags held pressure but the shocks still leak a couple pounds a day in pressure with the bike back there. They will be replaced soon as well. 
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Sep 29, 2014 21:50
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some texas redneck posted:The shop will likely want to do the water pump, cam seals, and front crank seal at the same time, along with the tensioner for the timing belt. Accessory belts (or serpentine belt) should be on that list as well, and probably the valve cover gasket(s). It's been years since I had a timing belt job done, but IIRC it should run about $500-600 with labor for the 4 cylinder. V6 will probably be a little more. Not trying to scare you, but doing all of that extra stuff is normally done with the timing belt. Do all that, enjoy another 100k+ from it. Yeah, that's around the price I'm expecting if I find a good shop. My dad's friend at the dealer said around $1000 through them (lol). Also, there has been the tiniest drip of oil on the belt cover, which I'm assuming was from the crank seal and probably contributed to the belt failing. So I'd want all that stuff replaced too.
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Sep 29, 2014 22:30
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DILLIGAF posted:I installed airbags to bolster my sagging rear end.... With just a couple hundred pounds, the rear of my car would start to drop. With a motorcycle in the back, I would be dragging the exhaust.
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Sep 29, 2014 23:39
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There was a local shop doing professional photoshoots of cars for free so I swung by with the BMW fleet.  (huge resolution)
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Sep 30, 2014 04:39
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mounted + balanced, alignment this morning before work 
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Oct 1, 2014 19:47
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Is that mural in the background a headless robot bee making GBS threads a pile of bronze drawer pulls?
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Oct 1, 2014 20:20
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Dremeled the gently caress out of the castle nut on one of my hondas front wheel ball joints. Still cant get it off. Replaced the PCV valve in the ranger, the old one was dirty and oil fouled.
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Oct 3, 2014 01:20
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Sold the Ranger today. Just took the right buyer who knew what to expect.
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Oct 3, 2014 05:54
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Hail damage on all of them. The worst is the Avalon. Shattered windshield, plus.. well.. everything except the rest of the glass, it looks like the surface of the moon.  F-150 only seems to have hood and fender damage, though it was parked in the next city when the storm hit. Ion seems to have escaped with only roof and trunk damage; I haven't been able to find anything on the hood yet, and all of the panels that don't face the sky are plastic. It was parked under a good sized tree when the storm hit, and that tree lost nearly all of its leaves and most smaller branches, I'd like to think the tree decided to sacrifice itself for my lovely econobox.  Avalon is somehow worth the least out of everything going by KBB. And it's by far the last car we want to get totaled (mom's car - she's legally disabled, has issues walking, and has serious issues even sitting in anything that's not a land barge - and it's essentially a stretched V6 Camry, which is the epitome of beige reliable car). If insurance does total it (they probably will, the cost of new panels is more than the car is worth before you even factor in paint), we'll buy it back and drop some cash fixing the leaks and swapping the timing belt/water pump again.
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Oct 3, 2014 12:59
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Saturn Ion with hail damage? This sounds familiar
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Oct 3, 2014 14:54
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Installed a Steeda airbox/filter in my Fusion. Now my turbo car makes turbo noises! It seals surprising well to the underside of the hood.
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Oct 3, 2014 17:06
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Dremeled the gently caress out of the castle nut on one of my hondas front wheel ball joints. Still cant get it off. Replaced the PCV valve in the ranger, the old one was dirty and oil fouled. Fire.
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Oct 3, 2014 17:34
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BlackMK4 posted:Fire. Probably try that on the next attempt. drat ball joint spins when I try to remove the nut.
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Oct 3, 2014 18:17
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Probably try that on the next attempt. drat ball joint spins when I try to remove the nut. Impact and/or ball joint remover (it's like a reverse vise you can jam in there).
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Oct 3, 2014 18:19
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Probably try that on the next attempt. drat ball joint spins when I try to remove the nut. Take an angle grinder to the nut and stud, cut vertically across the center of the stud until you're a hair from cutting into the steering knuckle. Apply chisel and drilling hammer until both halves of the nut fly off, now break the taper loose. If it's an Accord from 92 through like 99 or so bear in mind that you're about to need to pull the wheel bearing to get the balljoint out.
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Oct 3, 2014 18:37
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kastein posted:Take an angle grinder to the nut and stud, cut vertically across the center of the stud until you're a hair from cutting into the steering knuckle. Apply chisel and drilling hammer until both halves of the nut fly off, now break the taper loose. If it's an Accord from 92 through like 99 or so bear in mind that you're about to need to pull the wheel bearing to get the balljoint out. Its a 95 Civic. The whole reason I was trying to do all this was to replace the wheel bearing so thats a plus. Thats kinda what I was trying with the dremel cutting wheel, dont think I've gone deep enough in it to crack it off yet.
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Oct 3, 2014 20:18
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Oct 3, 2014 20:27
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You've made a lot of changes to that Bug and it looks awesome.
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Oct 3, 2014 20:32
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I got screwed.     Funny thing is it made a perfect seal. Never lost pressure.
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Oct 3, 2014 23:04
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Looking at that tread depth, I'm not really sure that tire was worth patching.
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Oct 3, 2014 23:23
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