|
peeNamaste posted:I have been taking my sweet time on my HGUC RX-78-2. It's taking forever to get this thing to look good. The seams are ridiculous, and everywhere. I think I'm almost there though. Chest needs another coat of blue, and then I have to paint his shield, and he'll be ready for panel lining and weathering. I don't have a work in progress pic at the moment. Not a video but you might learn something from this http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1103#post428029688 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1107#post428331693
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 22:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 22:25 |
|
|
With the PG Unicorn, I assume they'll be looking to have a heap of those coin battery operated LEDS in the frame somewhere? Wouldn't it be far cheaper, and easier to wire it up with your own LED chain? The PG is going to have a heap of wire routing and such internally. I mean, if people are wiring up the MG's, the PG would be even easier, albeit more wire. edit: nevermind - its some automated LED circuit they have for it. So you could get the effect they are selling, or wire it up yourself for cheaper, but you get an 'on' and 'off' unless you have an LED controller. Which could be neat if you had one that was multi colored and could set it to strobe and such. slightpirate fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 22:26
|
|
|
slightpirate posted:edit: nevermind - its some automated LED circuit they have for it. So you could get the effect they are selling, or wire it up yourself for cheaper, but you get an 'on' and 'off' unless you have an LED controller. Which could be neat if you had one that was multi colored and could set it to strobe and such. I suddenly want to see someone build a Disco Unicorn.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 22:39
|
|
|
slightpirate posted:With the PG Unicorn, I assume they'll be looking to have a heap of those coin battery operated LEDS in the frame somewhere? Wouldn't it be far cheaper, and easier to wire it up with your own LED chain? The PG is going to have a heap of wire routing and such internally. I mean, if people are wiring up the MG's, the PG would be even easier, albeit more wire. From what I understand, there's actually a couple settings for the LEDs, at least in that you can have it flip on and off or do a gradual power on so it looks a bit more like the show when it slowly became eye searing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 02:07
|
|
|
Suzaku posted:I suddenly want to see someone build a Disco Unicorn. Somehow this was missed in G Gundam. Nobody thought Neo-Kazakhstan had a horse in that particular race, but there it stood, it all its gleaming glory, Boogie Knight Gundam!
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 02:32
|
|
|
Pure speculation. but I doubt it will just be a heap of bog-standard Bandai LEDs. I'm expecting to see some sort of purpose-built units, probably microchipped, possibly with remote-on/wireless capability. Comedy option: Bluetooth compatibility.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 02:45
|
|
|
peeNamaste posted:I have been taking my sweet time on my HGUC RX-78-2. It's taking forever to get this thing to look good. The seams are ridiculous, and everywhere. I think I'm almost there though. Chest needs another coat of blue, and then I have to paint his shield, and he'll be ready for panel lining and weathering. I don't have a work in progress pic at the moment. I bet he could teach you to make a bitchin scratch built Harley Davidson mod for your Zaku.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 02:50
|
|
|
So instead of my planned "get the RD X2/X3 full actions and then stop buying crap" I'll be flaming out three months earlier because I went insane and snagged a RD Victory, V2, V2AB, and the V-Dash equipment on eBay for $300. Which, all things considered, is kind of a nice price considering they're all out of print. If you're wondering why, I did some measuring earlier and turns out all the late UC RDs are about 1/110 scale. They're not exactly 1/100, but neither are the actual MGs, and I'd rather my Late UC stuff be too small than too large. Plus the RDs look way better (and in the V2's case, exists). In related news, oh my god gently caress whoever designed the RD X1 FC's shoulders. Nothing like spending an hour trying to get the I-field effect parts on because the drat thing keeps falling off while I desperately try to click in a shoulder on a figure with no good place to apply pressure. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 07:33
|
|
|
BlitzBlast posted:In related news, oh my god gently caress whoever designed the RD X1 FC's shoulders. Nothing like spending an hour trying to get the I-field effect parts on because the drat thing keeps falling off while I desperately try to click in a shoulder on a figure with no good place to apply pressure. Eventually you reach a point where it properly sets into place. It's a bitch getting to that point in part because it feels like the pressure involved is going to break the pieces or puncture your drat finger. But eventually you will get them to properly lock into place. I had the same issue and fought with it for probably the better part of an hour before finally getting it to behave.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 07:57
|
|
|
I think amazon is having a bit of an HG sale? http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Amazing-Model-Scale/dp/B00E3JH52K/ zaku amazing ($15) http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-116-MSN-06S-Sinanju-HGUC/ ($27) http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Armor-Unicorn-Model/($33) Search seller:amazon
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 08:44
|
|
|
peeNamaste posted:I have been taking my sweet time on my HGUC RX-78-2. It's taking forever to get this thing to look good. The seams are ridiculous, and everywhere. I think I'm almost there though. Chest needs another coat of blue, and then I have to paint his shield, and he'll be ready for panel lining and weathering. I don't have a work in progress pic at the moment. None of the reference videos or forums I ended up finding helpful were "gunpla," or mech-model specific. I found the most useful sources came from military model makers or model train enthusiasts. Also most of them seemed to be British, so you might count that as a speech imdediment, and a lot of them are on the, er, 'heavier,' end of the scale. Humbrol have a youtube channel with demonstrations of each of their products, but the techniques they show off apply to any brand. Look at some of those. I can dig out a few more from other sources if you can deal with dumpy, English men telling you how to make a Messerschmitt look more realistic.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 10:17
|
|
|
madpanda posted:I think amazon is having a bit of an HG sale? Thank for this, I ended up snagging a bunch of HGBF kits I might not have gotten otherwise. Also my wallet is trying to jump off of the roof.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 14:56
|
|
|
Progress pic: Most of the armor for the left leg is finished, so assembly and future/flat coating won't be far behind for it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 16:14
|
|
|
So, I got the Nu ver. ka and I haven't done waterslides before. Do I need to glosscoat the whole thing them put on the waterslides, or can I put them on bare plastic, use some decal setting solution and then flatcoat the whole thing?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 17:18
|
|
|
Gammatron 64 posted:So, I got the Nu ver. ka and I haven't done waterslides before. Do I need to glosscoat the whole thing them put on the waterslides, or can I put them on bare plastic, use some decal setting solution and then flatcoat the whole thing? You can put them on bare plastic and then set/flatcoat the kit itself.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 17:21
|
|
|
TaurusOxford posted:You can put them on bare plastic and then set/flatcoat the kit itself. Okay, cool. Has anyone used Microscale Micro Set before? Do I need Micro Sol as well?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 17:26
|
|
|
Is it better to sand each piece/assembly of pieces or just to snap it all together then sand? I'm reading that people do a HG in under an hour and just don't understand how they could do that. Looking how pieces fit and sanding really eats up the time.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 19:21
|
|
|
Tenzarin posted:Is it better to sand each piece/assembly of pieces or just to snap it all together then sand? I'm reading that people do a HG in under an hour and just don't understand how they could do that. Looking how pieces fit and sanding really eats up the time. Because they're not sanding anything. They're just shaving away as much of the nub as they can with the hobby knife, use an appropriately coloured marker to cover up the nub mark, and then wipe away the excess with a paper towel. That's how I do it for almost all of my kits.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 19:29
|
|
|
I really wanna get MG F91. Just how bad is it? I know late UC figures are pretty grody sometimes but it can't ve as bad as the V / Vdash.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
I hear only two things about it: People either love it or absolutely hate the way it's engineered. It's weird.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 20:51
|
|
|
DamnGlitch posted:I really wanna get MG F91. Just how bad is it? I know late UC figures are pretty grody sometimes but it can't ve as bad as the V / Vdash. Yes it can, easily. The no-polycap construction makes it fragile garbage. You might as well burn $40, it will have roughly the same effect.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 20:53
|
|
|
DamnGlitch posted:I really wanna get MG F91. Just how bad is it? I know late UC figures are pretty grody sometimes but it can't ve as bad as the V / Vdash. It's not a bad build, it's just that it's REALLY fragile. I broke one of the VSBR's on mine just trying to open and extend it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 20:58
|
|
|
Snapped the waist on mine trying to turn it. Never even built the VSBRs because it's so hilariously obvious they're going to break as soon as they're used. Put the half-finished kit back in its box and will likely never touch it again. gently caress that thing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 21:14
|
|
|
I built mine and did the F91 decals on the shoulders and then put it on a shelf to never be touched again. An alright build, but geez I have no idea what the guy was thinking when he said "yeah no polycaps is a good thing" to the design team.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
I don't get the no poly caps thing. I understand they wear out but the non-polycap joints seem to be loose from the getgo anyway. Despite everyone's advice I will probably get it anyway because that is the way of collecting gunplas.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 22:01
|
|
|
It was ostentatious techno-wank (Innovation! From 20 years ago!) that was rightly determined to be a bad idea, since they never tried it again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 22:29
|
|
|
The Turn-A and Turn-X don't have any polycaps and they're both great. I'm not going to lie, the F91 is tempting as hell because it looks awesome.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
Well, you learn something new every day I guess, though it still strikes me as a bad idea in general. Isn't the Turn X massive and rather back-heavy?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 00:11
|
|
|
All of the late UC MGs don't have polycaps. I really have no clue why, it absolutely ruins the Crossbone Full Cloth.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 00:24
|
|
|
Not really since his feet are designed to shift his centre of balance further back than typical gundams. Also helps that his backpack stays mostly vertical so it's not like he's got a great big tail sticking out behind him. He is pretty big though. And his right arm is super floppy at the shoulder. Ignimbrite fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 00:24
|
|
|
MG Xbone shares its base skeleton with F91, so there's that. The MG V has a whopping six polycaps* but they look hilariously ineffective. Yeah, I don't know either. *edit: literally borrowed from a '90s-vintage BB-Senshi kit, if I'm not mistaken. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 00:30
|
|
|
I present the one of worse poses in model kit history  I managed to win my category so hooray. I arrived at the show somewhat late, so couldn't set it up in time. Didn't have time to pose it with the bazooka. those funnels. Good lord can they be a pain. So ended up with this somehow. I'll post better shots of it later.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 00:49
|
|
|
Congratulations!DamnGlitch posted:Despite everyone's advice I will probably get it anyway because that is the way of collecting gunplas. Also I forgot to mention this, but you should just save yourself the trouble and get the RD. It's actually a little closer to a true 1/100 than the MG, and it doesn't have the ghoulish head or the hosed proportions. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 01:04
|
|
|
I have the RD F91 and it's effin' gorgeous: I just wish it were a real model kit and not a very nice toy. Not sure I'd call it anything close to 1/100 though — it's almost identical in size to the HGUC.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 01:51
|
|
|
How do you guys deal with broken parts? I snapped something on the very first piece of an bandai HG evangelion model and I'm irritated that I have all this model to build and one broken piece that will be hosed up forever. Is the kit just never going to be whole or is there a way I can get a replacement piece?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 01:55
|
|
|
I did the measurements on the RD X1, it's about 1 cm away from being a true 1/100. And the late UC RDs are all roughly the same height, so they're all in the same boat. Theoretically the X1 should be a bit taller than the V and the F91, but eh. The fact that the RD is close in size to the HG says more about the HG than the RD, honestly. signalnoise posted:How do you guys deal with broken parts? I snapped something on the very first piece of an bandai HG evangelion model and I'm irritated that I have all this model to build and one broken piece that will be hosed up forever. Is the kit just never going to be whole or is there a way I can get a replacement piece? There is a way (GK parts), but it's a pain in the rear end and will take especially long since you're dealing with a non-gunpla kit. You are honestly better off just trying to repair it yourself. EDIT: Here's the old 1/144 V2 next to the recent HGUC.  I'm not going to say that the 1/144 is perfectly in scale, but you got to admit a difference like that can't all be excused by some proportion fudging. Now realize that the F91 (and the V) are both smaller than the V2. Bandai has basically retconned the original sizes of the Late UC designs at this point because they are hilariously small. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
The old 1/100 F91 measures just shy of 15cm from head to toe, so I'd say it's pretty close to the "correct" size. It's much bigger than the RD. The 1/144 is not correct scale at all, obviously. Not that I care all that much about dead-on accurate measurements for cartoon samurai robots. To me, "canon" is mainly a company that makes cameras and otherwise not a thing I ever think about very much. signalnoise posted:How do you guys deal with broken parts? I snapped something on the very first piece of an bandai HG evangelion model and I'm irritated that I have all this model to build and one broken piece that will be hosed up forever. Is the kit just never going to be whole or is there a way I can get a replacement piece? Depends on the part and the nature of the break, really. A detailed description or photo would help. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 03:02
|
|
|
Bimmi posted:Depends on the part and the nature of the break, really. A detailed description or photo would help. It was a calf. I put it together wrong, and while trying to pull it apart, the top end of one of the plates snapped. Then as I was trying to pull out the rest, the peg holding it together broke off in the hole, taking more of it with it. It's in 3 pieces now, both snapped and bent. It's beyond repair.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 03:16
|
|
|
Bimmi posted:The old 1/100 F91 measures just shy of 15cm from head to toe, so I'd say it's pretty close to the "correct" size. It's much bigger than the RD. The 1/144 is not correct scale at all, obviously. Well poo poo. Oh well, the RDs still look better. EDIT: Checked again, and turns out the thing I was using as a comparison (MG ZZ) is actually a bit small. I guess I'm looking forward to a ZZ 2.0 even more now. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 03:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 22:25 |
|
|
signalnoise posted:It was a calf. I put it together wrong, and while trying to pull it apart, the top end of one of the plates snapped. Then as I was trying to pull out the rest, the peg holding it together broke off in the hole, taking more of it with it. It's in 3 pieces now, both snapped and bent. It's beyond repair. Bummer. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Dunno what Eva kits are like these days but I built the LM-HG EVA-01 about 15 years ago and it was pretty boss but also fragile as hell — the bones in both arms snapped at a weak point just under the bicep, rendering them unposeable. I suppose they could be fixed with some effort, but on the other hand gently caress that, life's too short to be digging around in rubber. BlitzBlast posted:I guess I'm looking forward to a ZZ 2.0 even more now. Here's a fun (useless) fact: according to someone who would know, the 2.0 branding will not appear on any more model kits and is considered to have served its purpose. The MG Gundam 3.0 was originally going to be branded as "ver.G30th" a la the HGUC, and only got the version number because it came out years too late for the anniversary. The revisions will continue, obviously, and I'd bet fake money that a ZZ ver.Ka is already in the pipeline. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Oct 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 03:32
|
|