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Bimmi posted:Not that I care all that much about dead-on accurate measurements for cartoon samurai robots. To me, "canon" is mainly a company that makes cameras and otherwise not a thing I ever think about very much. I don't know; I think people would be bummed out if the Neo Zeong kit were 20cm tall. Not to mention that the scale problems with the late UC HGs aren't the only problems with the kits.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 04:43 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 12:54 |
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Broken Loose posted:I don't know; I think people would be bummed out if the Neo Zeong kit were 20cm tall. Not to mention that the scale problems with the late UC HGs aren't the only problems with the kits. There's a difference between "not dead on" and "wildly inaccurate". I wouldn't mind if Neo Zeong was a smidge smaller, for example! It'd still be loving massive compared to everything else, including MG Turn A.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 07:58 |
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Literally The Worst posted:There's a difference between "not dead on" and "wildly inaccurate". I wouldn't mind if Neo Zeong was a smidge smaller, for example! It'd still be loving massive compared to everything else, including MG Turn A. It depends on your tolerance level. Even if you accept a margin of error, they're not even consistent with how they gently caress up the sizes. They should be the same height (like the RDs are), but the HGUC F91 comes up to the shoulder of the HGUC Victory and vice-versa on the MG versions.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 11:04 |
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Honestly MG F91 just suffers from its age. HGUC Victory is a complete mystery though. Best guess I have is that they reused the MG lineart for both, but this time they actually had the technology to make the F91 appropriately sized. Meanwhile Victory vKa was changed up a bit for the transformation, and that... didn't translate to the HG very well. Though oddly enough, while we're on the subject, Bandai has so far been consistently inconsistent about the Victory Gundams: both the HG and the RD V are taller than the respective V2s. It's odd, and for the life of me I can't figure out why.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 13:07 |
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I don't get why they don't just make the late UC suits 1/120 scale or something so they don't have to work around the relative smallness of the figures.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 13:15 |
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peeNamaste posted:Speaking of weathering, does anyone have a good video demonstrating some good weathering techniques? Preferably with a host that is sub 400 lbs and sans speech impediment? I used Tamiya weather master on my last kit, and while I liked the results, I feel like it's really only good for dirt and soot and stuff, not for an actually weathered metal/worn paint look. I forgot to ask this before What are you currently using for weathering, just the Tamiya kit? There's a world of weathering powders out there, and tons that work for just making something look like the paint's worn. As far as I can tell, too, the Tamiya weathering brush is just a fancy eyeshadow applicator. If you're interested in trying out other powders, Vallejo and Secret Weapon Miniatures both make great stuff. You'll want a pigment fixer though, or it'll just wear off over time. That's just an all-purple paint job with metal and rust pigment applied. Is that the kind of worn paint you're looking for, or do you want more of a chipped look?
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 14:58 |
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Gaius Marius posted:I don't get why they don't just make the late UC suits 1/120 scale or something so they don't have to work around the relative smallness of the figures. In terms of the HGUC kits, they've pretty much already done this.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 16:30 |
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signalnoise posted:I forgot to ask this before That looks awesome! Thanks.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 19:21 |
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peeNamaste posted:That looks awesome! Thanks. http://www.miniaturemarket.com/catalog/product/view/id/29515/s/swmwp1007/ That is what I used. You might want to get a tiny collection of different pigments that work together so you can blend and what not. Pigment fixer is what's used to make sure the pigment doesn't fade. If you put a regular top coat on it before "fixing" the pigment, it'll blend together and you'll lose the dusty look that pigments can give you. In other words it will just end up looking like paint instead of weathering. You can use isopropyl as a fixer, or you can buy pigment fixer. I bought some pigment fixer and I spray it on with an airbrush so I don't smudge anything, but in the picture I showed you I didn't really care about that so it's kind of a bad example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od79Po7PP-g There's a video from the Secret Weapon people that is pretty good for 7 minutes. Anyways pigments are fun, again Vallejo and Secret Weapon make tons of different colors. I like using them for soot, rust, and worn paint, because that's super easy to do. But if you have other ideas you can easily find purple, blue, green, and other colors of pigments for interesting things. For example I think it'd be cool to use some green pigment for object sourced lighting from eyes and chest beams and whatnot. Also always try out pigments on a bit of sprue or something like that to see how it looks when applied. That metallic pigment for example looks black in the container.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 19:49 |
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I've been looking on ebay, I get the feeling it's not the ideal place to search, but where can I find a decent plamo toolkit? Something that comes with sanding scrubs, files, nippers, knife, etc.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 21:36 |
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Does anyone recognise where the wings on this custom job come from?
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 21:51 |
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BizarroAzrael posted:Does anyone recognise where the wings on this custom job come from? I don't think they come from anything. They're pla-plate customs with Wing Zero's wings acting as a base.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 21:56 |
Ka0 posted:I've been looking on ebay, I get the feeling it's not the ideal place to search, but where can I find a decent plamo toolkit? Something that comes with sanding scrubs, files, nippers, knife, etc. There's this. You'll need to buy sanding stuff separately though.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 22:29 |
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Do you guys use plastic glue to hold your non-moving parts together? I'm already starting to do this. These things are so fragile and loose sometimes it's kind of ridiculous.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 22:43 |
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signalnoise posted:Do you guys use plastic glue to hold your non-moving parts together? I'm already starting to do this. These things are so fragile and loose sometimes it's kind of ridiculous. Sounds like you bought a bad kit.
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# ? Oct 5, 2014 22:59 |
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So my Gunpla Battle Arm Arms Arm Arms Arm Arms came in and you know what? Suck it MG Phenex. I suppose it's not as pretty as the legitimate DE mount, but the Battle Arms are a lot more articulated so I think it evens out.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 06:29 |
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Well it looks like the Build Burning Gundam might give the 00 a run for it's money in terms of articulation. It's also a lot more compatible with accessories than you might think.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 06:39 |
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Well it looks like the Build Burning Gundam might give the 00 a run for it's money in terms of articulation. It's also a lot more compatible with accessories than you might think. How convincing your gunpla can be making Jojo poses should be an important metric in grading kits.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 06:44 |
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Ka0 posted:I've been looking on ebay, I get the feeling it's not the ideal place to search, but where can I find a decent plamo toolkit? Something that comes with sanding scrubs, files, nippers, knife, etc. Go to a hobby/gaming shop. Anybody who carries modeling stuff or wargaming things will have clippers and Xactos. You can get tweezers from a hobby shop, too. Sandpaper from an auto place. Boom, you're saving probably ten bucks and shipping. You're welcome.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 06:45 |
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Well it looks like the Build Burning Gundam might give the 00 a run for it's money in terms of articulation. It's also a lot more compatible with accessories than you might think. Every review of the Build Burning has made me want it more and more just due to the articulation. A stark contrast to that other recent HG release that couldn't even rotate its hips.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 07:16 |
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Yeah the HG unicorn is like "no you must be satisfied with this pose I think"
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 07:33 |
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DamnGlitch posted:Yeah the HG unicorn is like "no you must be satisfied with this pose I think" The G-Self has the same problem, and it's a real headscratcher because it's very plainly got most of the same upper-leg design as other HG's. Someone just drank some paint and decided to omit the usual hip joints in favour of a very basic one that doesn't swivel.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 07:36 |
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I present a mostly completed Mazin Gundam. Why mostly? Cause I ran out of goddamn topcoat so there's a few pieces that never got any proper treatment. I'll get around to ordering more and finishing it up eventually, but for the time being i'm pleased with the results.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 07:59 |
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Not a Zeta? Then again maybe that'd work better as some sort of... Shin Mazin-Gundam Z. But in seriousness, looks pretty cool.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 08:05 |
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Neddy Seagoon posted:The G-Self has the same problem, and it's a real headscratcher because it's very plainly got most of the same upper-leg design as other HG's. Someone just drank some paint and decided to omit the usual hip joints in favour of a very basic one that doesn't swivel. It does swivel though, but the design of the leg armor seems likely to restrict the motion by quite a bit so I don't know why they bothered. Still, with some tweaking it would work fine, and might make for a more visually pleasing solution in some cases. Those split-block legs tend to look horrible on things that weren't originally designed for it.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 09:31 |
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TaurusOxford posted:
It looks pretty cool, and I find myself laughing more than I should about the actual-Mazinger photobomb in the background.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 13:13 |
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Holy poo poo these little number/logo decals why do more kits not come with you. They turned my GM 2 from pretty drab to baller. Also they stick a lot nicer.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 15:16 |
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Wow, shinanju stein is massive. It's the second one I've done, the first being sandrock. I'm working on Astray blue frame second version now. I like articulation so far and I'm finding it to be a much harder build the the others so far. Now I need to work up the confidence to start applying decals to my finished models. These are stupidly addicting but extremely fun to build. I have strike freedom and infinite justice on the way.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 19:05 |
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TaurusOxford posted:
Looks nice! I also love being able to drive 5 minutes and go to a hobby store that carries topcoat, all the supplies I need, and Gundams. No, I don't live in Japan.
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# ? Oct 6, 2014 19:09 |
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Today may have been a bad day for my wallet to browse Amiami - Kotobukiya is rereleasing the Metal Gear Rex kit, and WAVE is releasing a Metal Slug kit.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 02:21 |
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I probably should not have chosen a MG as my first model to dress to the nines
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 04:11 |
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Looks like the HGBF Hyaku-Shiki Custom is getting a Build Custom backpack as well. Looks like a flight pack similar to the Lightning one.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 15:34 |
Neddy Seagoon posted:Looks like the HGBF Hyaku-Shiki Custom is getting a Build Custom backpack as well. Looks like a flight pack similar to the Lightning one. I wonder if the new Hyaku-Shiki will use the same mold as the old one? The Gouf R35 was a new mold so hopefully this one is too.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 15:39 |
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:I wonder if the new Hyaku-Shiki will use the same mold as the old one? The Gouf R35 was a new mold so hopefully this one is too. I doubt it, they didn't do a new mold for the Qubeley Papillion, and that was one of the first HGUC kits. I just think the Gouf was a special case because Mr. Ral's the greatest.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 15:42 |
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Please feel free to tell me I don't know what I'm doing and that this has already been explored, but if you do, tell me why this is bad. So further applying my miniatures tool kit to gunpla, I have this thing: http://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Mouldline-Remover Here's a more generic one for a little less money: http://www.micromark.com/seam-scraper,7547.html Now I'm not advocating you buy from Games Workshop necessarily, as there are other similar items as I linked above. What this is good for is cleaning up the rough edge left by snipping parts off the sprue flush with the part you're trying to remove using some flush cutters by Xuron or whoever. I have found that snipping away from the piece I'm aiming at and then cutting the rest with a hobby knife, I'm more likely than I'd prefer to cut away more plastic than I intend. Sanding down a nub gives me a similar problem and is also a pain in the rear end. This tool is essentially just a piece of rectangular or triangular steel with hard corners that are capable of scraping tiny amounts of plastic away. Using a seam scraper or moldline remover, I can scrape away the offending bit of plastic with minimal damage to the rest of the piece, and because it isn't a blade, it's safe to use near detail. Since it's not a blade, I can't accidentally cut into something I don't mean to. It also makes the whole process safer and allows me to use a paring motion without risk of cutting into my thumb. Didn't see this in any suggested tool areas, but I'd like your thoughts on it.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 18:03 |
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signalnoise posted:Please feel free to tell me I don't know what I'm doing and that this has already been explored, but if you do, tell me why this is bad. bandai generally makes a high quality kit that needs little to no finishing work. Its not a tool that belongs in any basic kit. Sandpaper will leave it smoother than that tool could do
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 18:05 |
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I guess? I mean I'm using Bandai kits and I still have to cut things off of sprues. Also no sandpaper I've tried has matched the finish of the bare plastic.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 18:08 |
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Gunpla generally don't have mold lines, and if you're getting a discolored spot from sanding off nubs then you're not doing it properly. If you want an absolutely clean finish at the cost of extra assembly time:
I use a pack of sanding wands, and I work my way from coarse to medium when doing the initial steps. I then use the fine > x fine > clean > polish wands 99% of the time so the finish will be consistent after I apply Dullcote. The only exception to this is the mouthguard on my RG because I don't want to Dullcote the eyes; I just left it at medium. Don't ever buy anything from GW. It's all overpriced trash that will sometimes ruin your models.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 18:41 |
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So my birthday's coming up and I'm wondering what MG to get myself. I'm mostly torn between the Buster, Heavyarms, Red Frame Kai, or Hi Nu Ver Ka. Any other kits that are really fun? Blitz, I already have a Gundam X
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 18:50 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 12:54 |
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Aww yeah, I just got my Hi-Nu ver Ka's HWS system in, now I just need to decide whether or not I wanna go all out painting it. Oh, and I guess I need a Hi-Nu ver Ka too.
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# ? Oct 7, 2014 18:54 |