|
It's sort of doable, but hop tea is not hopped wort and you would need to experiment with it quite a bit imo.
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 14:57 |
|
|
Wasn't the boiling time needed to get some component of the wort out? Ie. the reason why you're supposed to boil with an open pot rather than the lid on. I thought the hop boiling time was incidental.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:17
|
|
|
Right I'm saying still boil for many minutes, but in a much smaller pot of water so it needs less fuel, has less spinup time, and or can be done in a huge batch and then the "tea" measured out for multiple beer batches later.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:19
|
|
|
You boil the wort to stabilize it and drive off DMS, but one major thing you are also doing is isomerizing acids from the hops, which is what gives you bitterness. I'm not a chemist and not really sure if the wort itself is a major factor in this process or if water would do just as well, but in short the longer the hops are boiled, the more alpha acids you isomerize and thus the more bitter your beer. This is why hops added at the beginning of the boil contribute far more bitterness than those at the end of the boil. I think that isomerization occurs on different acids at different temperatures and an acid will isomerize multiple times depending on how long it's being boiled, which would suggest the reason why late additions and hop stands work. E: A bit of googling suggests that sugars in the wort are required in order for the hop acids to properly isomerize. But at the same time, the higher the gravity of the wort, the less utilization you get, so in theory I guess you could make a small batch of starter wort of 1.020 or something, boil a poo poo ton of hops, and then add that back to your finished wort. I can't really begin to figure out the calculations you'd need to do to calibrate the amount of bitterness you are actually adding or how you'd measure your hops to figure out a given IBU you want to add to the finished wort, though. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:23
|
|
|
Mikey Purp posted:You boil the wort to stabilize it and drive off DMS, but one major thing you are also doing is isomerizing acids from the hops, which is what gives you bitterness. I'm not a chemist and not really sure if the wort itself is a major factor in this process or if water would do just as well, but in short the longer the hops are boiled, the more alpha acids you isomerize and thus the more bitter your beer. right - the pH of the wort is a factor also. You can even play around in beersmith with different gravity and different wort composition and see how the IBUs change, iirc. (and fwiw, I think hop extract is made with CO2 and maybe even some additional processes)
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:26
|
|
|
OK, thats cool, its just a random idea that came to me. I'm always thinking about ways to make this more efficient . Also tonight I'm doing a wine kit and all instructions insist on racking to a secondary. What with all the current anti-secondary talk I'm wondering if its actually necessary Edit: it actually has like 4 transfers. 6th to get rid of sediment, then back 6 days later, then out, stirred a bunch, then put right back in Here's the page http://ebrew.com/primarynews/basic_28-day_wine_kit.htm Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Oct 3, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:33
|
|
|
I think for wine it actually is necessary, at least if you want your wine to clarify properly. I just finished my first wine kit and had to rack twice. Each time I did so there was a pretty large amount of sediment left in the carboy. Not to mention that commercial wineries use brite tanks for essentially the same thing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:41
|
|
|
Welp that'll be a problem because I only have a single carboy free. I'll have to do something stupid like rack it into my filling bucket and quickly clean out and sterilize the carboy while it sits (covered of course)
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 19:44
|
|
|
I ordered a big mouth bubbler and harness from Northern Brewer back on the 1st of September. They shipped it shortly thereafter, emailing me a tracking number. Two weeks pass and I realize it hasn't shown up. I look up the tracking number on UPS.com, and it says it's invalid. Weird. I chat with an agent, he quickly sends a replacement order while they deal with whatever the UPS issue is. I track this order closely; in two days it's at the local UPS facility, then delivery is delayed a day. Then it's delayed another day. Then it's listed as "damaged", and is being sent back to the shipper. At this point, I'm about a week delayed in racking a primary'ed mead onto 4lbs of blueberries, some lavender and lemon peel, and I'm worried about the timeline of some other stuff I wanted to brew this fall. I talk to another dude at Northern Brewer, and he sends me a second replacement order, this time with some extra stuff: a glass and an airlock and a stick-on "fermometer". I patiently track this order, and two days later I see it's been delivered while I'm at work. I get home, no packages. I talk with a UPS agent, who informs me the packages were delivered to my old address, about 30 minutes away from where I live now. How does this happen? I double and triple check my order receipt, it's got the right address. I call up Northern Brewer once again, they are very apologetic, but claim they had the correct address on the shipment. I guess UPS screwed up? Regardless, they send me a fourth big mouth bubbler and harness, plus another package with the same extras, and a $25 gift card. Yesterday I get a voicemail from my management office of old apartment complex. The current tenant of my old apartment gave them the packages that were mis-delivered. I send an e-mail to Northern Brewer asking them what they want to do about the packages. Today I picked up the packages at my old apartment complex after work. They most definitely have my old address on the UPS label, which judging by all of the Northern Brewer stuff printed on it, was probably printed at their warehouse. Although I'm really delayed with the mead, I now have two big mouth bubblers, plus two packages of extras. I'm not sure what the point of this story was; Northern Brewer screwed up a bunch, but the customer service reps were very nice and did their best to make things right.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 23:27
|
|
|
Did you pay with paypal? If you haven't updated your address on paypal they may have pulled the shipping address from the paypal confirmation for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 23:46
|
|
|
Adult Sword Owner posted:Welp that'll be a problem because I only have a single carboy free. I'll have to do something stupid like rack it into my filling bucket and quickly clean out and sterilize the carboy while it sits (covered of course)
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
So, I've read that yeast packs generally only have about half the desired amount of yeast you'd want for pitching 5 gallons of wort. For my first two batches I just used the one pack and reached my desired abv without any issues. However, my last brew I'm pretty sure didn't ferment fully. I did two things differently though. I used a Wyeast "smack pack" (previous two batches were dry yeast) and I didn't transfer to secondary after discussing secondaries here. I'm not necessarily trying to troubleshoot the last batch as I don't think that either of those things are really at fault. My question is more so about doing starters. My homebrew book recommends using DME to make a starter but says nothing about liquid extract, which is all I have. How much starter do I make? How much LME do I use? Are there any starter calculators that you guys use? I only have one Wyeast pack again this time around (it was the last one in stock) and I want to do a proper pitch. edit: Ok, I found a couple of calculators but they're giving me inconsistent figures. However, both tell me that my yeast pack (mfg date of 7-10-14) is only estimated at like 40% viability. DecentHairJelly fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 14:42
|
|
|
There's some discussion around calculators etc on http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/1130 (specifically on http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html)
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 16:26
|
|
|
It sounds like you are brewing 3 different batches with 3 different yeast strains and expecting similar attenuation? Or is this 3 of the same batch? I'm confused.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
Personally, I go with the Mr Malty calculator. There's also a good one on Brewers Friend which allows you to choose the growth formula you want to use and supports stepped mashes. Very good for when your yeast pack is very low viability. LME is fine for a starter. The main thing to consider is that you want your yeast to grow while eating complex sugars like maltose. If you use simple sugar in a starter then your yeast will only want to ferment simple sugars so won't ferment a complex wort. It will be fine as long as it's malt based sugar. Use a ratio of 100g of malt extract per 1L of water for the best starter gravity.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 16:31
|
|
|
HatfulOfHollow posted:It sounds like you are brewing 3 different batches with 3 different yeast strains and expecting similar attenuation? Or is this 3 of the same batch? I'm confused. I'm brewing extract kits using the yeast that each one recommends. Brewed three different ones so far. I guess I don't know exactly what my final gravities should be since the kits never say and I'm sure that varies depending on the beer. I'm mostly looking for guidance on making a good starter and proper pitch rates.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 16:47
|
|
|
internet celebrity posted:Did you pay with paypal? If you haven't updated your address on paypal they may have pulled the shipping address from the paypal confirmation for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 18:12
|
|
|
ChickenArise posted:There's some discussion around calculators etc on http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/1130 (specifically on http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html) Heh. That's my question from the homebrewfinds Chris White Q&A again. I'm glad they picked it up; I wasn't really very satisfied with Dr. White's answer. But I still don't know why Wyeast or White Labs doesn't market a larger package. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Oct 4, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 18:22
|
|
|
DecentHairJelly posted:I'm brewing extract kits using the yeast that each one recommends. Brewed three different ones so far. I guess I don't know exactly what my final gravities should be since the kits never say and I'm sure that varies depending on the beer. I'm mostly looking for guidance on making a good starter and proper pitch rates. Every yeast is going to attenuate differently. You should get your hands on a hydrometer and measure your original and final gravity. Then you can calculate if your yeast actually did the job it was supposed to do based on the average attenuation for the specific strain. I've only made a starter once. I know people will argue for them but I've pitched straight from the vial into a bunch of 5 gallon batches and never had a problem beyond a few slow starts. But once it gets going it's fine. Your issue could potentially be related to aeration or temperature. But without hydrometer readings and specific info on the yeast strain it's hard to say if things actually finished how they were supposed to.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 18:32
|
|
|
I've finally decided to make some beer of my own. I read the first chapter of How to Brew - seems pretty straightforward. I understand brewing with extract is slightly easier, so I'm going to try that first. I'm looking to brew a pale ale with a fruity, sweet character - something like Brewdog's Amarillo (not completely sure of the name). Being a newbie I have zero knowledge about different hops and even less about the boiling times etc. What kind of recipe should I use? Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 19:01
|
|
|
The opinion that my brother and I share about Chris White's opinions of pitching rates is that his company makes great yeast but they do not know a whole lot about making great beer. Taste any beers from White Labs and you will agree.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2014 21:16
|
|
|
Paper Clip Death posted:I've finally decided to make some beer of my own. I read the first chapter of How to Brew - seems pretty straightforward. I understand brewing with extract is slightly easier, so I'm going to try that first. Brewing Classic Styles is a good place to start for recipes for each of the standard styles. The boil length is almost always going to be 60 minutes. What changes between recipes is the type of hops and which point they are added to the boil, typically measured by the number of minutes left to the end of the boil. The fruity component would come from the type of hops you choose. You can find lists online of all the common hop strains with their flavor and aroma profiles. The sweet part would come from the specialty grains you steep before the boil, probably some grade of Crystal malt.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 02:35
|
|
|
Paper Clip Death posted:I've finally decided to make some beer of my own. I read the first chapter of How to Brew - seems pretty straightforward. I understand brewing with extract is slightly easier, so I'm going to try that first. Hello! All BrewDog's beers tend to be quite sweet. That is a function of the yeast they use and a copious amount of crystal malts (which are not fermentable by yeast but taste of varying kinds of sweet to you and me). When did you have the Amarillo? It's a single-hop American style IPA, but like all American-style IPAs, it got perceptibly sweeter as time went on as the hops faded. That batch of IPA is Dead came out at the start of the year.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2014 15:04
|
|
|
ChickenArise posted:Threw caution to the wind and primed with white grape juice. Hopefully I have neither still beer nor bottle bombs. My hydrometer sample was sour enough to make my ears pop, and I don't know what to think about that. IIRC this was the batch that got a really active innoculation bug pitch and never really showed any typical signs of sacc fermentation. hellfaucet posted:I pretty much loving love that you primed with grape juice. This is a bold and badass move. Fuckin' ingenuity right there if you ask me, it will be good. Send me a bottle. Update: Carbonation is high (I added more than I meant to because I measured with a pint glass), but aside from the world's slowest gusher in a bottle I quick-chilled in the freezer, I don't think I've got bottle bombs. A+ would carb with juice again (and always probably with sours from now on, gently caress sugar). Now I just need some time for bottle conditioning to take the edge off of the super tart raspberries + base beer. In the future I will probably not use a fruit adjunt that is so puckering on its own.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2014 18:27
|
|
|
My cider is dry but a bit boring. How can I backsweeten and make it a little more interesting? It also is not clarified at all, any tips or will it be as thick as regular cider without actual filtering?
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2014 18:31
|
|
|
Adult Sword Owner posted:My cider is dry but a bit boring. How can I backsweeten and make it a little more interesting? It also is not clarified at all, any tips or will it be as thick as regular cider without actual filtering? Did you make your cider from store bought juice, store bought cider, or freshly pressed juice? All of my store bought juice ciders have been similar to what you would buy in a six pack, but the store bought cider ones I did always came out nearly opaque and kinda orangeish. Still tasted good though. Try backsweetening with fruit juices/concentrates? I've done that on a couple of otherwise crappy batches to make something not undrinkable. Of course, you still have to figure out a way to keep the bottles from exploding or whatever you added from completely fermenting out once you throw that extra sugar in there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 01:10
|
|
|
Adult Sword Owner posted:It also is not clarified at all, any tips or will it be as thick as regular cider without actual filtering? Could you use sparkolloid? The cloudiness should fall right out, without filtering.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 02:34
|
|
|
Speaking of cider, I'm not sure about yeast nutrient. My LHBS tells me that if you use champagne yeast, you should add yeast nutrient as well as energizer. However they didn't say how much. I used cider from a local farm and started it off with 3 tsp yeast nutrient and 1 tsp energizer (because that's what the skeeter pee guy recommends). It's been happily bubbling for 2 days now. Should I add more after the gravity has reduced a bit? What do nutrient/energizer actually do?
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 02:41
|
|
|
Cpt.Wacky posted:Brewing Classic Styles is a good place to start for recipes for each of the standard styles. The boil length is almost always going to be 60 minutes. What changes between recipes is the type of hops and which point they are added to the boil, typically measured by the number of minutes left to the end of the boil. Kaiho posted:Hello! All BrewDog's beers tend to be quite sweet. That is a function of the yeast they use and a copious amount of crystal malts (which are not fermentable by yeast but taste of varying kinds of sweet to you and me). When did you have the Amarillo? It's a single-hop American style IPA, but like all American-style IPAs, it got perceptibly sweeter as time went on as the hops faded. That batch of IPA is Dead came out at the start of the year.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 10:18
|
|
|
I may have finally come into a big enough chest freezer for my needs. My new job has one they used a while back to keep high-risk fibreglass resins cool because they spoilt when hot, but they have since changed brand and haven't used the freezer in quite some time. 6 keg capacity, oh woe is me. What a shame. So I've been buying up nice tap handles from the USA because no Aussie ones are that good. In actual brewing news - I am doing a Yeast Bay test coming up soon. My LHBS deal directly with forums user Vyrkuza, who is an Aussie distributor for the yeast bay. So basically I am doing a basic wheat beer, 50% each wheat and pils, 20 ibu of noble hops early, and then will be splitting it between 4x 5 litre fermenters. One each on the 3 brett blends (beersel, brussels, lochristi), and one on the funktown pale ale. Just for my local brewing club to be able to taste the difference each brett blend brings through. Secondary news - my rye saison loving owns. I pitched it on the Yeast Bay Saison blend and Beersel brett, and it has the most fantastic farmhouse character I could have asked for. My berliner weisse has had 2 brett blends thrown at it for the hell of it, it's funking up quite well now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 12:23
|
|
|
Missed gravity on a wheat today pretty bad. Target 1.051. Hit 1.037. Did a new step mash. And grain didn't look too ground. https://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/yuja-yuzu-wheat-braukaiser-variation
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 14:26
|
|
|
This was posted to my local homebrew club's facebook page. It brings a whole new meaning to "house microflora"
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 14:47
|
|
|
So I hosed up. Started a stout in mid June and haven't bottled yet. Do I need to be worried about the yeast, as far as priming and whatnot goes, or should I just chuck the batch and start over.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 15:21
|
|
|
Irish Legend posted:So I hosed up. Started a stout in mid June and haven't bottled yet. Do I need to be worried about the yeast, as far as priming and whatnot goes, or should I just chuck the batch and start over. Don't chuck it! Most likely you're fine, you can probably sprinkle a bit of dry yeast (like us-05) in there with the sugar if you are really worried. Definitely don't chuck it. Seriously, its rare to actually need to chuck a beer. More aging time is not a good reason.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 15:23
|
|
|
ChiTownEddie posted:Don't chuck it! Most likely you're fine, you can probably sprinkle a bit of dry yeast (like us-05) in there with the sugar if you are really worried. Cool, I was just worried because I have let it sit so long, I figured the yeast would be shot and wouldn't carbonate when I bottle. Having a now 9 month old has been a challenging experience I guess I can say with some validity haha.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 16:03
|
|
|
So I'm trying my first yeast starter. For those of you who do starters, should I expect similar activity (krausen caps and all that), or are they pretty tame as far as yeast activity goes. I'm seeing some co2 bubbles but no foam cap. I've read that starters get active and stop much faster than full 5 gallon batches but I was expecting a bit more. For reference, I'm not using a stir plate or anything, just yeast and wort in a jar.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 19:41
|
|
|
Another possibility would be the carbonation pills that Northern Brewer sells - they include sugar and yeast. Seems like kind of an expensive way to go about it, but it might be worth a try: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/prime-dose-carbonation-tablets-200-count.html
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 19:42
|
|
|
ChiTownEddie posted:Don't chuck it! Most likely you're fine, you can probably sprinkle a bit of dry yeast (like us-05) in there with the sugar if you are really worried. Rehydrate your dry yeast before pitching! "John Palmer posted:Dry yeast should be re-hydrated in water before pitching. Often the concentration of sugars in wort is high enough that the yeast can not draw enough water across the cell membranes to restart their metabolism.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 22:06
|
|
|
hey santa baby posted:Speaking of cider, I'm not sure about yeast nutrient. I'm not sure if this got answered before. I generally don't bother with nutrients in cider, basically because it seems to work pretty well without. I did use champagne yeast once, and it didn't seem to have any trouble getting through the sugars - I found it to be too dry, and I think I remember that it finished at 0.995 or something like that. In fact, I've deliberately used lower-attenuating strains like Sweet Mead every batch since, just so it would be a little off-dry.
|
|
#
?
Oct 7, 2014 22:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 14:57 |
|
|
Planning on brewing this over the weekend. Anyone else try it? 11 day fermentation is pretty awesome considering it's a stout. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/milk-oatmeal-stout-182975/
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 03:44
|
|
