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I shrink wrapped 5 metres of it to the pole in my teepee, with a remote, Bitchin remote lights when camping.
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Aug 29, 2014 13:37
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I did the research myself a while back and T8s are in the price/performance sweet spot right now. T5s are arguably better but don't seem to share the cheap price and availability of the T8s. Those garbage Chinese ballasts that come with the cheap lights sure are terrible though.
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Aug 29, 2014 15:48
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I'm most likely going to end up with several lighting circuits/zones. No idea on the layout yet. I need to get the loft installed before I worry about perminant electrical. Today's progress: The bastard is ALIVE. The coolant sensor read -35C after warming up the car. It was a napa/$17POS that should have never been installed- OEM only for these cars. Aaaaand the Apexi Powerfc aftermarket ecu is toast.  As soon as the car would warm up, the tach would start matching the revs, timing locked, and the idle stuck at 2k. No idea what's fried in it yet. I'll check it out tomorrow. I've got just over 10 hours in to this car, which at shop rate, it would have only cost him $200 more after parts to have me do the install in the first place. Uggggg. At least it runs. (We'll just forget about the oil leak from someone unbolting the engine mounts/breaking the oil pan seal and let his mechanic uncle fix that.)    Minor shop progress. I was lazy today and worked on other things/relaxed/flipped out about work loving up things while i'm out. Not sure what order that happened in, but at least I don't have to worry about work until Tuesday.  
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Aug 30, 2014 07:07
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Looking good. What kind of siding are you using there?
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Aug 30, 2014 07:11
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8ender posted:Looking good. What kind of siding are you using there? 8" cement board. Our local lumber yard turned me on to it- It's a product from James Hardi, but it's not hardi plank- it's cemplank. $2/board cheaper on 300 boards adds up. Plus it still has a 25 year warranty and is made in the original hardiplank factory. I'm a fan so far. I bought a set of powered shears and holy crap do they cut like butter with no dust!
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Aug 30, 2014 07:22
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Not putting in rain screen?
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Aug 30, 2014 07:51
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Rain screen? The building is wrapped in a moisture resistant barrier and properly z-flashed + flashed behind each seam of the cement board.
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Aug 30, 2014 08:00
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Forgive my lack of building knowledge - is that flashing behind the siding and you just nail through both into the wood?
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Aug 30, 2014 11:39
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That cemplank is loving sweet as all hell. How have I never heard of this before?
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Aug 30, 2014 16:38
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the spyder posted:Rain screen? The building is wrapped in a moisture resistant barrier and properly z-flashed + flashed behind each seam of the cement board.
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Aug 31, 2014 04:05
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Slugworth posted:Rain screen isn't a product so much as a building principle. It is basically installing siding with an air gap between it and the moisture barrier, like you would with brick. I don't really think anyone in the US really does it, so the other poster may be from 'not america' Yeah, I'm in BC and it's required by code here.
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Aug 31, 2014 06:00
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Bostitch coil nailer hell yeah, I've got one too and just finished building 100' of cedar fence with it. 
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Aug 31, 2014 06:28
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Slugworth posted:Rain screen isn't a product so much as a building principle. It is basically installing siding with an air gap between it and the moisture barrier, like you would with brick. I don't really think anyone in the US really does it, so the other poster may be from 'not america' I found a great video from James Hardie about installing cememnt board siding on top of brickwork. Interesting idea, we really don't have much structural brick work in our area, so it's not common like you say.
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Sep 1, 2014 02:41
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Twenty hours later...   It's 60% done.
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Sep 1, 2014 02:47
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Looks great, Spyder. Super jealous of your setup.
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Sep 1, 2014 03:15
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Mat_Drinks posted:Bostitch coil nailer hell yeah, I've got one too and just finished building 100' of cedar fence with it. I'm torn on mine. I think for fencing it would be fine, but I had no idea I was buying in to the "Bostitch" system when I bought it. No one local carries Bostitch nails, so I end up ordering them of Amazon. I've tried using Porter Cable/Senco/Hitachi nails and they all suck in it. Misfires/bent nails, it was a nightmare nailing the sheathing with this thing- even after ordering the correct nails. I've had constant issues with it over/under driving nails (which is partially my fault- the regulator on my compressor is dead). If I did it all over again, I would buy the more expensive Hitachi, but only due to nail availability. Amazingly enough, outside of issues caused by my bad regulator- it's done amazing on this siding. I'm impressed, but not enough to stop wishing I had the Hitachi. the spyder fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Sep 1, 2014 |
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Sep 1, 2014 03:33
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SuperDucky posted:Looks great, Spyder. Super jealous of your setup. Thanks! It's my brothers too- but I just happen to have way more tools  .
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Sep 1, 2014 03:34
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the spyder posted:I'm torn on mine. I think for fencing it would be fine, but I had no idea I was buying in to the "Bostitch" system when I bought it. No one local carries Bostitch nails, so I end up ordering them of Amazon. I've tried using Porter Cable/Senco/Hitachi nails and they all suck in it. Misfires/bent nails, it was a nightmare nailing the sheathing with this thing- even after ordering the correct nails. I've had constant issues with it over/under driving nails (which is partially my fault- the regulator on my compressor is dead). If I did it all over again, I would buy the more expensive Hitachi, but only due to nail availability. My grandpa went HAM on refurb hitachi tools a few years ago when the local distributor went belly up. I'm pretty sure he got a bomb-rear end 10 gal, 50 pound portable compressor and a right angle drill that's still going strong like 12+ years on for sub 250 bucks. When you can find actual, green, branded Hitachis, pick them up.
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Sep 1, 2014 03:42
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the spyder posted:I've had constant issues with it over/under driving nails (which is partially my fault- the regulator on my compressor is dead). Which nailer do you have? I ask because I've got the N66C which has 'dial a depth' and you're supposed to be able to 'dial' that away. The specific reason I bought mine is because it can take nail sizes from 1.25" to 2.5" and I can adjust the the drive for soft materials like fresh fencing cedar or harder materials when I eventually build a garage and need to do everything besides framing (which I have a Hitachi framer for). Admittedly I haven't tried non Bostitch nails though as I found a case of the size I needed super cheap on Amazon prime.
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Sep 1, 2014 06:29
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 I wanted to steal this so bad when I was picking up a car for work. I need to convince someone at our Mazda store to order one for me  You definitely need to acquire one of these for your shop
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Sep 10, 2014 20:48
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I must find a way to order those. I'll hit up my friend who works for a local dealer. Also: I havn't bought anything stupid in a while, soooooooo:   gently caress me. The pictures make them look... small. A DoAll 3613-2 and a Grob NS-24. I had to buy both, but it was worth it. I'm going to restore both and sell one off.
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Sep 11, 2014 01:44
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With 5 hours of sleep, I picked up a trailer from my friend and took our 320k truck to pickup the bandsaws today. Que two old guys with dueling forklifts, working in seamless unison to load these two beasts-it was amazing. I forgot to take pictures.  I've fallen in love with the Do-All. I'll post more of the cleanup later.
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Sep 13, 2014 03:23
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Bandsaw progress: The DoAll is cleaning up nicely. We unloaded both today. I need to buy a pallet jack, but in the mean time our lift worked great for unloading the DoAll. The Grob came off with just the engine hoist.     
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Sep 14, 2014 02:05
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Those things are loving monsters. Nice score.
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Sep 14, 2014 02:19
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Thanks! I can't wait to power up the DoAll. It's just too drat neat.
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Sep 14, 2014 04:59
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Your toy shed is amazing and I wish I had the time, ability or money to use any of them like you will.
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Sep 14, 2014 06:13
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Thanks! As far as money goes, I bought these for scrap. I just try to make the most of what I have by finding good deals. Side note: In an act of stupidity I raised the Grob up from it's cribbing last night. No pictures of the lift, it was just me. Imagine a chain hoist, some straps wrapped around the trusses, and a lot of swearing. The only casualty was the pallet I tipped it up on. It split under the weight as it came down. Note to self: never do that again.  It's actually quite taller then the DoAll, and slightly wider, but not as deep. Oh well, after inspecting it, I'm making the right choice keeping the DoAll. The Grob just needs more work/parts then I have time for. Off to CL it goes!
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Sep 15, 2014 19:42
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SuperDucky posted:Your toy shed is amazing and I wish I had the time, ability or money to use any of them like you will. Qouting this for the truth. I have done minor minor fab work that was well, redneck engineering. I just need a permanent play place soon to do some real fabrication.
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Sep 15, 2014 19:59
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SO jealous of your workshop / garage. I may have missed it, but do you have any plans to paint/tile/whatever the floor? Love watching the progress unfold.
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Sep 16, 2014 00:40
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yeah I mean I and my friends do plenty of car stuff but my end goal is a shop with 32 foot ceilings so I can comfortably work underneath a 10 meter sailboat on a hoist. This shop is a good, "shoot-for" goal with the requisite mods, of course. e: mostly because we have an open a frame with a 4 ton hoist at the sailing club that we take 9000 pound boats up on all the time and its scary as hell and I don't wanna do that anymore
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Sep 16, 2014 05:56
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There's a rather large (uncommon) wildfire about 20 miles NE of me burning and filling the Willamette valley with smoke. Makes for a nice sunset, but my eyes and throat are itching like crazy.  Last night I decided the Grob has to go. Before I list it forsale, I wanted to try and find a date. There's no serial tag or any markings I can find, so I decided to try the motor tag.   Look at this drat motor. It's HUGE. Pony keg huge. It must weigh 200 pounds. I did find out it's a 5hp 3ph 220/440 volt- which does not exist anymore, we use 230/460.    Both Fairbanks Morse and Allis Chalmers made electrical parts in the 40's as part of the war time effort, but there's nothing I can get a firm date on. I did find a sales brocure that lists almost an identical machine in 1948- but at 3hp, not 5hp. Also mine is missing a front door like in the ad. I'm guessing this is one of the first ones made. I decided to cleanup the machine a bit more before listing it. The table is the most notable improvement. It's still bloody huge.   Curiosity got the better of me after cleaning up last night. There was a random knob on the front of this machine that did nothing. (Bottom left front of first picture). I unscrewed it and realized it was screwed into the compressed air chip blower output. Of course the NPT fitting is ruined now. Uggggg. Oh well- I had not yet derusted the table insert and decided to do that while I still had the cleaning gear out from the Grob. After I was done, I realized the knob was for the insert! It clamps it in place under the table. One mystery solved. 10 more to go.   
the spyder fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Sep 16, 2014 |
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Sep 16, 2014 20:29
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the spyder posted:With 5 hours of sleep, I picked up a trailer from my friend and took our 320k truck to pickup the bandsaws today. Que two old guys with dueling forklifts, working in seamless unison to load these two beasts-it was amazing. I forgot to take pictures. That's just about the best load securing job I've ever seen from an Oregonian. Good job! Does Oregon have super-lax trailer rules? I swear every time I go there, I see at least a couple incredibly dangerous looking rigs.
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Sep 20, 2014 00:19
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Time for paint. 
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Sep 22, 2014 06:44
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Shop update: Caulking sucks! We spent two days sealing this place nice and tight. Thursday I'm skipping work and painting. Car update: Rx7 owners suuuuuuck. I have been thinking about calling it quits trying to help the local community over the past few months and there's been a few recent events that have pushed me over the edge per say. I'm officially done. This weekend I am calling three owners who have at this point been using me as a storage lot and give them their 30 days notice. The other four projects will be wrapped up after the shop passes it's final inspection. After that, I'm working on personal projects. A part of me hates to do this, but if I get one more rear end in a top hat expecting me to bend over backwards to help them and then balk over price- I'm going to do terrible things to their car. I'm just happy I get to focus on things I want to .
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Oct 8, 2014 00:29
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Up rates 50%, quote at +20% time a job would normally take. Anyone who balks you didn't want as a customer anyways. Charge according to actual time spent, which should be under the quoted amount, or cut people discounts if you like them / they don't cause trouble. If your problem is cheap assholes, easy fix, price them out up front. Be up front with rates and storage pricing, have a rule and stick to it - when people as why say your good will was being taken advantage of. You'll have less work but will probably make the same amount of money with far less stressing over dickheads. I'm being selfish here though cause I just wanna see you work on your projects more 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 01:20
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Yeah screw the side jobs. You have enough going on already. Do your own stuff for a bit. Also, come racing . PIR is only 3 weeks away!
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Oct 8, 2014 01:53
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I worked part time for a guy that ran a Miata shop for a few years and he used to "fire" his customers all the time. They would bitch and whine about pricing and he'd tell them to gently caress off and not come back, seemed to work pretty well for his business actually.
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Oct 8, 2014 06:52
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Z3n posted:Up rates 50%, quote at +20% time a job would normally take. Anyone who balks you didn't want as a customer anyways. Charge according to actual time spent, which should be under the quoted amount, or cut people discounts if you like them / they don't cause trouble. If your problem is cheap assholes, easy fix, price them out up front. Pretty much this for anyone who is self-employed. There's never a need to 'quit', just price yourself out of reach of the people you don't want to work for. Then if you do get work, it's for a price that's worth it. I did this about a year ago, I now work half as much but make the same money, and for better, more successful clients which made my whole experience at work a lot more pleasant anyway.
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Oct 8, 2014 09:33
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:Pretty much this for anyone who is self-employed. There's never a need to 'quit', just price yourself out of reach of the people you don't want to work for. Then if you do get work, it's for a price that's worth it. This is what I did for side IT work. EVERYONE at work wants you to "come to their house and see why their computer is slow" when you do desktop support. I quote them a stupid amount of money, and if they say yes, well, then I get a stupid amount of money. If they say no, then good. I don't like wasting my weekend clearing out the piles of malware from your 6 year old home computer anyway.
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Oct 8, 2014 10:56
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Shampoo posted:I don't like wasting my weekend clearing out the piles of malware from your 6 year old home computer anyway. Holy crap this. People balk when I tell them my hourly rate is $75, pretty much the same hourly rate for an auto mechanic.
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Oct 8, 2014 15:22
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