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signalnoise posted:Didn't see this in any suggested tool areas, but I'd like your thoughts on it. Some pictures of its results on kits would help a lot.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:08
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TARDISman posted:So my birthday's coming up and I'm wondering what MG to get myself. I'm mostly torn between the Buster, Heavyarms, Red Frame Kai, or Hi Nu Ver Ka. Any other kits that are really fun? Blitz, I already have a Gundam X A SECOND Gundam X! Seriously though, those all seem like pretty good choices. I'd go with Hi Nu myself, but I love that loving thing. I really want an MG Hi Nu in the GPB/Nu's color scheme, I think it'd look so much better.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:14
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TARDISman posted:So my birthday's coming up and I'm wondering what MG to get myself. I'm mostly torn between the Buster, Heavyarms, Red Frame Kai, or Hi Nu Ver Ka. Any other kits that are really fun? Blitz, I already have a Gundam X MG GUNDA- oh gently caress. I'd go with either Heavyarms or the Buster. They're both pretty fun. Though if you don't have one yet, definitely pick up one of the Impulses. Great kits. Also I am done with everything but the Banshee Norn's legs and I am incredibly curious to see if this thing can even stand up. The Armed Armor DE is heavy.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:18
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The cost for what you get for anything Games Workshop is insane, especially when you compare it to Bandai. Bandai's stuff is molded in separate colors, has good quality plastic with very little cleanup work required, are engineered to be highly articulated and even come with inner frames and stuff. Games Workshop makes tiny little figures molded in one color. GW is in the UK, which is a little less exotic than Japan, so I dunno about import costs. Warhammer nerds generally say "b-b-b Warhammer has rules and a game, Gundam doesn't! That's why it costs more!" but I'm pretty sure it costs more to engineer a Gundam than it does to write rulebooks for 40k. Like the only legit excuse is if they produce them in tiny, TINY numbers and need to charge megabucks to recoup the cost. I also really dislike Warhammer's aesthetic and universe, too. tl;dr Gundams rule, Orcs drool
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Oct 7, 2014 19:19
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Gammatron 64 posted:The cost for what you get for anything Games Workshop is insane, especially when you compare it to Bandai. Bandai's stuff is molded in separate colors, has good quality plastic with very little cleanup work required, are engineered to be highly articulated and even come with inner frames and stuff. Games Workshop makes tiny little figures molded in one color. GW is in the UK, which is a little less exotic than Japan, so I dunno about import costs. Warhammer nerds generally say "b-b-b Warhammer has rules and a game, Gundam doesn't! That's why it costs more!" but I'm pretty sure it costs more to engineer a Gundam than it does to write rulebooks for 40k. Like the only legit excuse is if they produce them in tiny, TINY numbers and need to charge megabucks to recoup the cost. The only experience I have with 40k is the Space Marine game and the Dawn of War games, and I agree with you that the setting is a little too grimdark for the sake of grimdark. That being said, I really want to make a custom paint Ork kit using the Powered Arms and a Kampfer Amazing or Full Armor Unicorn.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:25
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EthanSteele posted:Some pictures of its results on kits would help a lot. I'll see if I can't get a good before/after
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Oct 7, 2014 19:26
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Broken Loose posted:
yeah but their "airbrush" looks like a flamer! how cool is that?!?!?
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Oct 7, 2014 19:30
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Warhammer is stupidly expensive for what it is and I'm not a big fan of the setting, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't enjoy some of their ridiculous, over-the-top designs.  It's a mech with a castle for a hat. What's not to love?
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Oct 7, 2014 19:42
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signalnoise posted:I'll see if I can't get a good before/after Parts  Clipped from sprue  Cleaned by seam remover  It could stand to see a little sanding and paint but I would say that using this tool is a hell of a lot better than a hobby knife, at least for me. As for grinding down a stump with 400 grit sandpaper, I guess I'm just not gunpla hobbyist enough for that. But if that's the way you wanna roll then go for it.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:43
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Monaghan posted:It's a mech with a castle for a hat. What's not to love? The price tag? Seriously I could get a full set of PGs for the cost of some of those titan kits.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:45
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TARDISman posted:The only experience I have with 40k is the Space Marine game and the Dawn of War games, and I agree with you that the setting is a little too grimdark for the sake of grimdark. That being said, I really want to make a custom paint Ork kit using the Powered Arms and a Kampfer Amazing or Full Armor Unicorn. Gundam is also often very dark, but I think the distinction is that Gundam says "war is hell, makes people even more awful and in general just really really sucks" while 40k is like "war is hell and it's awesome, I am a god of death riding on a metal throne covered in skulls, more blood for the blood god." The thing with Warhammer is as a spoof of heavy metal album covers it's great, but then people started talking it 100% seriously. I once told a guy it was originally supposed to be a parody and he got mad and told me it wasn't.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:46
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GW also has some really terrible business practices that drive their prices high. There are a number of threads in trad games if you want to know more. Their stuff is great by tabletop game playing piece standards but mediocre by scale model standards. Their metal stuff was gorgeous but they're all plastic now.
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Oct 7, 2014 19:58
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signalnoise posted:It could stand to see a little sanding and paint but I would say that using this tool is a hell of a lot better than a hobby knife, at least for me. Honestly it kind of just looks like you used a hobby knife. Maybe you just need to use a different blade from the standard #11?
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Oct 7, 2014 19:58
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BlitzBlast posted:Honestly it kind of just looks like you used a hobby knife. Maybe you just need to use a different blade from the standard #11? The problem I have with a hobby knife as opposed to this tool is that the hobby knife can too easily take too much plastic off, you can't handle it the same way due to safety, and if you slip with a hobby knife you can cut things you don't mean to. I am not saying this is a replacement for sanding and polishing though, I'm saying it might be a tool to consider as a better way to do what you'd normally do with a hobby knife. Really the reason I'm not polishing is because I intend to paint my stuff anyways. What blade would you suggest though
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Oct 7, 2014 20:03
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signalnoise posted:The problem I have with a hobby knife as opposed to this tool is that the hobby knife can too easily take too much plastic off, you can't handle it the same way due to safety, and if you slip with a hobby knife you can cut things you don't mean to. I am not saying this is a replacement for sanding and polishing though, I'm saying it might be a tool to consider as a better way to do what you'd normally do with a hobby knife. you should be scraping with the blade at slightly above 90 degrees, there is no way to cut into a model if you are using it correctly
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Oct 7, 2014 20:04
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Fauxtool posted:you should be scraping with the blade at slightly above 90 degrees, there is no way to cut into a model if you are using it correctly Like, perpendicular to the surface you're scraping?
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Oct 7, 2014 20:06
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signalnoise posted:Like, perpendicular to the surface you're scraping? yeah you can even use the back of the blade if you are clumsy and want to cut yourself
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Oct 7, 2014 20:07
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signalnoise posted:What blade would you suggest though Well I have a couple of friends who swear by chisel blades like the #17.
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Oct 7, 2014 20:10
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BlitzBlast posted:Well I have a couple of friends who swear by chisel blades like the #17. specialized tools serve a purpose and even the mould line remover does something useful. They probably arent in the recommended tools because if you can only pick 3-4 or tools why would you pick something thats not multi-purpose? It was never a debate about it being a bad tool.
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Oct 7, 2014 20:13
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Yeah from what I'm hearing about proper scraping technique with the hobby knife, this tool I'm using is doing exactly the same thing except it's not a blade so it's idiot proof/takes really no skill and is designed for the job instead of multipurpose. Something neat to have in your kit but not revolutionary. I learned something today anyways 
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Oct 7, 2014 20:18
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signalnoise posted:Yeah from what I'm hearing about proper scraping technique with the hobby knife, this tool I'm using is doing exactly the same thing except it's not a blade so it's idiot proof/takes really no skill and is designed for the job instead of multipurpose. Something neat to have in your kit but not revolutionary. yep, the recommended tools are just a starting point. Any long time modeller is going to have tons of tools and paints they only use for one job and then never again I have a bag of 200 eyedroppers because 200 from china was cheaper than a 5 pack at a hobby shop.
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Oct 7, 2014 20:22
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Yeah I am used to tiny metal models, so big figures made of plastic is a new thing for me to learn. My collection of poo poo I don't use is rather massive too I must admit. Also I too have a massive bag of pipettes for no good reason
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Oct 7, 2014 20:29
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So I built my first kit ever (Zaku II Thunderbolt edition) with little trouble-- No pics yet since I'm planning on painting all of it. BUT I also visited the local shop to see what kinda stuff they had and I saw an RX-78-2 real grade so I picked it up. Should I do some more HGs first or should I bust this bad boy open and go to town?
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Oct 7, 2014 21:14
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Razzled posted:So I built my first kit ever (Zaku II Thunderbolt edition) with little trouble-- No pics yet since I'm planning on painting all of it. You can do whatever you want really. Just be careful of small parts and iirc there was something funky about the arms on the RX-78-2 so be careful assembling those.
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Oct 7, 2014 21:23
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I'm almost done with my HGUC RX-78-2! This thing has been taken forever, because eliminating the seam lines on literally every section of the limbs was a very long process. I'm looking for feedback specifically in my weathering. I feel like the chest looks okay (maybe a little heavy handed) but the arms and legs look kind of weird. At the time it made sense to me that there would be small paint chips on those flat surfaces, what with constant battle and all, but it just looks off to me the more I look, ever since someone pointed it out to me. It's not sealed yet so there should still be time for me to fix it up and make it pretty. Should paint chips and wear really be localized to edges and corners only?
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Oct 8, 2014 01:21
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peeNamaste posted:I'm almost done with my HGUC RX-78-2! Yes, when I do weather them, I just do corners. Also, it seems like you've gone a little overboard.
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Oct 8, 2014 02:59
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Gammatron 64 posted:Yes, when I do weather them, I just do corners. Also, it seems like you've gone a little overboard. Yeah I definitely got a little excited. At least it doesn't look like total garbage. Live and learn
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Oct 8, 2014 05:19
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Your technique shows promise but the chipping is way overdone, and the way it's confined to the chest looks strange: it comes off more like the Federation got a lovely batch of blue paint than authentic battle damage. Also, for all the dirtiness, there are some areas where grime would naturally build up that seem oddly clean here, e.g. the lip where the white and red foot parts meet. Meanwhile, the thick black panel lines on the legs look really out of place, while other areas could use more in the way of lining and shadowing. Still, it's a start, and I've certainly seen worse. Just keep in mind that subtlety is key for effective weathering and damage effects — you generally want it to look like it's seen some hard use, not like it's been sitting in a redneck's yard for 35 years. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 08:26
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Yeah, it's important to think about how the environment would effect the MS. For instance space based MS would have less weathering, but the weathering would be more even and there would be a lot of burn marks near thrusters and such. Ground MS will have dirt and water wear, more grime in cracks and areas where gravity would cause dirt, rust and oil to run downwards and lots of paint chipping and dust or mud on the feet and lower legs.
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Oct 8, 2014 10:16
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Thanks for the advice friends.
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Oct 8, 2014 17:59
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newest episode of gundam build fighters is out and now im regretting that I didnt pre-order the build burning when it was still in stock and super cheap on amiami
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Oct 8, 2014 19:23
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Do you know if this build burning pre-order Comes with those extra punch and kick effects?
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Oct 8, 2014 19:57
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peeNamaste posted:Do you know if this build burning pre-order Comes with those extra punch and kick effects? It's standard in the kit afaik.
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Oct 8, 2014 19:58
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Literally The Worst posted:It's standard in the kit afaik. Oh sweet, I thought it was a pre-order bonus because of how  it is.
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Oct 8, 2014 20:14
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I need a powered GM Cargidan now, that thing owns.  (The original Powered GM is pretty decent right? seeing as that will be the base)
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Oct 8, 2014 20:25
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peeNamaste posted:Thanks for the advice friends. I ran across this buildup and thought it might be relevant, since the modeler seems to be going for a similar effect to yours. I still think it's overdone (the bare metal looks more like dry-brushing than chipped paint, a common mistake) but the weathering is reasonably consistent and logical and does not rely on any particularly advanced techniques. Below are a couple examples of what I consider to be effective heavy wear-type weathering - the first displays really excellent concept and execution (if not so much color sense) and utilizes a number of effects, including chipping, staining, soot and rust. The second is just a good, no-frills general-wear approach. Two markedly different styles, but both look pleasingly beat up without crossing into overkill, IMO:   There are lots of really good weathered builds out there to study, and not just mecha. Find examples you like and try to copy them. And the next time you do one, try going about half as intense as you think you should and see if the results aren't much better. edit: here's another link you might find interesting, with a little background on the techniques used. This one sits right on the razor edge of OTT-ness but somehow still works, especially considering it's 1/144 scale (!) Bimmi fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Oct 9, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 23:28
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After about my first month of gunpla, I did my first sticker last night. After I saw the HG Gouf custom has an movable camera in the head, I just had to do it. I kinda put it on upside down, dropped it, and almost lost it but I was able to place it correctly. It looks so loving sweet just having it on. I need to start getting more practice for when I finally move up into the master grades.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:09
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Zedd posted:I need a powered GM Cargidan now, that thing owns. I was thinking "Yeah, the new BF kits are cool, but I've got a backlog already." Then I watched this ep. Build Burning, Lightning, Powered GM Cardigan, don't forget the boosters for those last two, an Enact to repaint, and I should pull the trigger on a couple of kits from last season...
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Oct 9, 2014 00:21
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DigitalRaven posted:I was thinking "Yeah, the new BF kits are cool, but I've got a backlog already." Then I watched this ep. Build Burning, Lightning, Powered GM Cardigan, don't forget the boosters for those last two, an Enact to repaint, and I should pull the trigger on a couple of kits from last season... Lightning and Cardigan come with their boosters I think.
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Oct 9, 2014 01:07
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SO I'm putting together the MG NT-1 ALEX and it's retarded similar to the GM custom. I knew that going in but it's nearly identical in a lot of steps. Given how much I enjoyed putting the GM Custom together though it's been very enjoyable. At first I was kinda down since the color makes it look a little faker than the GMC since it's very basic white and blue but panel lining and the associated grunging up that happens from wiping away has really made it pop. First attempts at dryrubs have gone... poorly. they really couldn't put a little more space between decals to make them easier to cut and then adhear, huh?
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Oct 9, 2014 03:05
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