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Are there any good pterodactyl style models aside from Ripperdactyls out there that would work well with 40k? I want to try my hand at converting an Exodite force and doing levitating barges drawn by flying dinosaurs as a DE Raider conversion.
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Oct 8, 2014 21:34
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Cooked Auto posted:Okay that is a bit over my painting skill I think. It really isnt dude, ive seen your titty elf guard and you can definitely pull this off the most complicated technique used on those models was the dry brushing on the bases and thinning the paints used on the base coat. This is what you literally have to do to paint the model how SRM suggested: Undercoat the model white, you need to get a good coverage. Base coat: Paint the pants grey. Paint the metal bits a midtone silver. Remember to thin your paints a little, you probably wont have to do two coats because these colours cover decently. Washes (dont need to thin): Do one coat of agrax earthshade on all the white bits. Do a second coat of agrax earthshade shade on the over coat. Do a black wash on the grey and metal. Done. Thats 4 paints and undercoat. You can go back later and add highlights and do more details if you want. What makes this scheme good is the simplicity of it and the contrast of the colours. Its just a bonus that it is super easy.
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Oct 8, 2014 21:50
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Cooked Auto posted:Okay that is a bit over my painting skill I think. BULBASAUR posted:http://www.ebay.com/itm/6x6-Wheel-Conversion-Kit-/261461279894
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Oct 8, 2014 21:52
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Yes, I use lots and lots of his oppressor tracks. The quality is good, but the molds have a lot of flash and areas they connect to the sprue. I spend a lot of time cleaning his treads before I mount them. That said, its still way cheaper and less time consuming than scratch building your own. Send him a message if you order a lot and he'll give you a discount.
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Oct 8, 2014 21:56
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BULBASAUR posted:Yes, I use lots and lots of his oppressor tracks. The quality is good, but the molds have a lot of flash and areas they connect to the sprue. I spend a lot of time cleaning his treads before I mount them.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:09
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Yep. Grab 2 sets. You might need to file some spots down to fit 100%, but its pretty much a drop in conversion besides all the cleaning.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:21
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Dope, thanks. Picking up some sets now!
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Oct 8, 2014 22:28
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Big Willy Style posted:It really isnt dude, ive seen your titty elf guard and you can definitely pull this off the most complicated technique used on those models was the dry brushing on the bases and thinning the paints used on the base coat. Gee thanks.  SRM posted:Washes over basecoats? There's not much more basic than that. I guess it just looks more complicated than it is.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:48
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Cooked Auto posted:Okay that is a bit over my painting skill I think. Give it a go. Painting with a lot of washes can yield really good results that will surprise you. My orks a predominantly painted with washes over yellow primer.  Honestly painting a model in base colours and then covering the whole thing with agrax earth shade yields stuff that looks great on the tabletop. This is the kind of effect you can achieve. Granted these results are for army painter quick shade but the results are comparable. 
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Oct 8, 2014 22:51
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Seriously, washes are talent in a bottle.
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Oct 8, 2014 22:55
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SRM posted:Seriously, washes are talent in a bottle. I try to stay away because I wanted to learn how to shade without using them. But I am too lazy to ever move beyond my current plateau. I painted 200+ Orks without using washes (there is the odd exception here or there). I wish I could have my time again. Don't do what I did.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:39
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SRM posted:Seriously, washes are talent in a bottle. People ask me how I do orks skin and they lose their minds when I tell them I just slap thrakka green wash over yellow primer.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:42
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Raphus C posted:I try to stay away because I wanted to learn how to shade without using them. But I am too lazy to ever move beyond my current plateau. I painted 200+ Orks without using washes (there is the odd exception here or there).  Reminds me, if I want to hit 200 models painted this year I'll probably want to finish that set...
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Oct 8, 2014 23:46
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Even vehicles get a lot better with just a wash. It depends on what effect you're going for, of course, but it also meant that I didn't have to bother getting an airbrush.
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Oct 8, 2014 23:50
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Squifferific posted:Even vehicles get a lot better with just a wash. It depends on what effect you're going for, of course, but it also meant that I didn't have to bother getting an airbrush.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:07
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Words
FagtasticalMondays fucked around with this message at 13:21 on Feb 13, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2014 00:22
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SRM posted:Well, vehicles you need to be a little more gentle with. If you wash the whole thing you'll get these big, weird splotches where the wash has pooled and waked. If you just do it in the recesses it looks awesome though, and if you do it through an airbrush you can effectively tint the whole model. On the other hand, do it right and you get a fairly neat camo pattern effect out of the tidemarks.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:42
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Whats the common loadout for a stormtalon these days? I bought one for my brother that Im going to assemble and paint in secret for his birthday and I was wondering what you guys usually do with them.
The Sisko fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Oct 9, 2014 |
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Oct 9, 2014 00:53
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The Sisko posted:Im going to assemble and pain in secret for his birthday I know it's not what you intended, but this still seems pretty accurate somehow.
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Oct 9, 2014 00:57
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The Sisko posted:Whats the common loadout for a stormtalon these days? I bought one for my brother that Im going to assemble and paint in secret for his birthday and I was wondering what you guys usually do with them. Assault cannons and he whatever-missiles are almost universally thought of as the best.
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Oct 9, 2014 01:03
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I love washes almost as much as paint chat  Washes have 2 uses for me- as a filter and as a cheap form of shading. Basically a thin wash over a large flat area will create a colorization effect that adds depth and makes it less flat. At the same time it clumps into recesses and shades. You can do one or both. Oils are even better. You can also paint crazy good highlights with washes. One Weird Trick GW Doesn't Want You To Know About        (just a wash)
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Oct 9, 2014 01:22
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I wish I could come up with a effective wash painting method for my Necrons , I want them to be Ipod white but it never comes out right 
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Oct 9, 2014 02:33
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PeterWeller posted:The GK book adjusted the Drago fluff, toning down its ridiculousness and making him seem even more hard rear end than before. Also, the Blood Tide stuff has been cleansed of silly sexism. BULBASAUR posted:One Weird Trick GW Doesn't Want You To Know About
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Oct 9, 2014 02:52
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Hollismason posted:I wish I could come up with a effective wash painting method for my Necrons , I want them to be Ipod white but it never comes out right Did you try not washing them?
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Oct 9, 2014 03:23
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Let it never be said that Goonhams don't wash.
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Oct 9, 2014 04:27
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I've found that washes, especially nuln oil, are loving magical when using them on colours across the middle of the spectrum. Dark colours they don't show up on, which is fine, but nuln oil tends to ruin light colours like white and glacier blue, so I've had trouble getting those away from the flat, 2d look without totally changing the colour it's meant to be.
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Oct 9, 2014 04:27
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For bright colors I use complementary colors. For yellow that something is an Indian yellow/transparent yellow/casnadora yellow. For white I use a black oil wash which I then 'take back' with thinner.
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Oct 9, 2014 04:59
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BULBASAUR posted:http://www.ebay.com/itm/6x6-Wheel-Conversion-Kit-/261461279894 Thanks for linking this, I went to have a look and apparently someone has stolen my ebay account. Now to begin the process of getting it back.
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Oct 9, 2014 05:05
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I tried this iridescent stuff I got from Reaper but immediately regretted it as it looked like I jerked off on all of my Necrons once it dried. I have sense stripped those models.
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Oct 9, 2014 05:18
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Just put together a box of Deathwing terminators that I've had sitting around, and man I love this kit. The posing was so much more dynamic than any other terminators I've worked with, the small amount of converting I did was really easy, and while the models are "busy" with details they don't seem overdone for some reason. And my new Belial: (I put the two "wings" on his back but decided I liked him more compact and removed them) 
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Oct 9, 2014 06:43
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Raphus C posted:I try to stay away because I wanted to learn how to shade without using them. But I am too lazy to ever move beyond my current plateau. I painted 200+ Orks without using washes (there is the odd exception here or there). A man who don't use washes. A shameful man.
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Oct 9, 2014 08:56
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HiveCommander posted:I still haven't got around to reading the fluff, I was too busy informing the internet of the crunch to really take notice. We're already seeing the fallout of Ward's departure; GK fluff gets better, but rules get worse Sure you can. VMA and the new VGA both have varying shades of metal. Start with Gunmetal, end up at Aluminium or Steel. Then varnish and oil wash.
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Oct 9, 2014 10:30
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Hollismason posted:I wish I could come up with a effective wash painting method for my Necrons , I want them to be Ipod white but it never comes out right Liquetex Professional spray paint, Titanium White. It's absolutely perfect white with none of the usual problems spray paints have since it's water based, almost no smell, no fuzzies, covers really well. Only problem is they can get runny/drippy if you spray too much at once but that's easily avoidable. Also Fix I think had problems with nozzle clogs but just keep the nozzle clean and turn it upside down and and spray to clean it out once you're done using it and you should be fine. Normal spray can procedure really. Seriously can't recommend those Liquitex Professional sprays enough.
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Oct 9, 2014 12:53
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The Sisko posted:Whats the common loadout for a stormtalon these days? I bought one for my brother that Im going to assemble and paint in secret for his birthday and I was wondering what you guys usually do with them. Asscans and skyhammers. Best thing in the SM codex.
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Oct 9, 2014 14:39
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Direwolf posted:Just put together a box of Deathwing terminators that I've had sitting around, and man I love this kit. The posing was so much more dynamic than any other terminators I've worked with, the small amount of converting I did was really easy, and while the models are "busy" with details they don't seem overdone for some reason. I like your Belial conversion except for his head. It just seems weirdly positioned and flatly posed. If it was turned to one side it could look like he's bracing himself or issuing a challenge.
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Oct 9, 2014 15:08
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The best loadout for a Stormtalon is indeed assault cannons and skyhammers, and again, both escorting a multi-melta/assault cannon stormraven with strafing run. Go ham airforce or go home.
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Oct 9, 2014 15:26
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Sure you can. VMA and the new VGA both have varying shades of metal. Start with Gunmetal, end up at Aluminium or Steel. Then varnish and oil wash.  on a black or dark grey primer.
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Oct 9, 2014 15:41
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So, I didn't buy Codex: Militarum Tempestus when it first came out, and just now got a copy. It has Datasheets, like a 7th edition codex, including two formation datasheets, and it talks about factions just like a 7th edition codex. Did they do a stealth edit when they reprinted it, or was that the way it originally came out?
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Oct 9, 2014 15:53
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Can I join an independent character with Terminator Armor to a unit that's taken a Drop Pod as a dedicated transport, and have him drop in that way? I need to get a list together in short order and I don't have my codex handy.
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Oct 9, 2014 15:54
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Why wouldn't you be able to? Remember that he'll be Bulky.
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Oct 9, 2014 15:58
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