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I work in (not for) a tannery, and as far as I can tell they don't really care too much for individual buyers who don't buy a lot. Top priority goes to bigger companies buying the expensive stuff, of course. So you'll probably have to wait a really long time and it'll cost a lot. Doesn't mean you can't do it... Just that it might be annoying & expensive.
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Oct 3, 2014 16:15
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bought my first ever alligator skin. poo poo's expensive yo.
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Oct 8, 2014 12:56
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Made a bag for the first time. Took me like, a month, working on it when I had time:   The closure works by sliding the handle through the slot in the top, then pulling that flap on the backside of the handle out over the slot, which locks it all in place. I also included that external pocket, since opening and closing the main pocket isn't exactly the quickest process. The whole thing ended up requiring more pieces of leather than I would have liked, but this was largely the result of the fact that the design was completely different when I started out. If I had known how this was going to be right from the start, then I probably could've managed to basically make the whole thing, except for the handle, strap, and external pocket, out of one big ol' piece of leather. I don't think this patchwork effect is too much of a problem aesthetically, except on the shoulderpad of the strap. There are also a few spots where the stitching ended up not looking too great, but overall I am pretty pleased with how it turned out.
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Oct 12, 2014 19:53
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Looks pretty good! Hard to wrap my head around the enclosure part without playing with it myself, but it's a neat idea. I made an extremely simple messenger bag over the summer and used the same sort of style you did for your bag--one long piece for the front, bottom, and back (and top and front-flap in my case), and two small pieces for the sides with the corners cut out and the edges bent for stitching. It was a little dicey when I got the corners while stitching, but it's held up pretty well regardless. Your bag looks even more solidly built than mine!
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Oct 12, 2014 23:34
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Is anyone in here interested in doing a comissioned piece for me? I'm looking to get a nice but hopefully not too expensive leather portfolio. I'm looking for something along the lines of this: https://www.etsy.com/listing/116301746/large-leather-portfolio-or-writing-case or this: https://www.etsy.com/listing/199265645/leather-portfolio-with-ipad-pocket I'd love to give the job to a goon if anyone is interested.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:03
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I have a bag of thick veg-tanned leather scraps, and want to make mud flaps for my bicycle fenders. How should I treat/condition/seal the leather to hold up to rain, slush, salt, and snow? I may want to dye it first, but that's not absolutely necessary. Lasting through winter is a priority over appearance.
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Nov 7, 2014 21:53
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Tan-Kote on the underside, and some sort of finish on the outside/top. Obenauf offers good finishers, and I think that this is ideal for rough conditions. You can also put finish on the underside, if you want to sandwich it in there. Also, you will want to bevel & burnish the edges to protect stuff from permeating at the edge. Saddle soap & water is a wonderful, simple approach. I've seen saddleback offering stuff along these lines, but does anyone know how to get a nice dusty-black carbon look to their leather, like this? I'd think it'd involve some sort of abrasive brushing or something of the sort. That's a complete guess, though. Geop fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 22:11
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Geop posted:Tan-Kote on the underside, and some sort of finish on the outside/top. Obenauf offers good finishers, and I think that this is ideal for rough conditions. You can also put finish on the underside, if you want to sandwich it in there. Awesome, thanks! I'll post photos if it doesn't turn out horribly. Or maybe even if it does.
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Nov 7, 2014 22:47
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Tan-Kote on the flesh side is a good idea. You should apply a layer of it, then work it in with a bone folder or something similar in order to smooth out the fibers of the leather. If you're working with scraps, especially thick ones, then the leather might be a little spongy and rough on the flesh side. Smoothing it out with the Tan-Kote and bone folder will help to compress the fibers, and will also let the second coat stay on better, since you'll be applying it to a flatter surface.
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Nov 7, 2014 22:55
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Geop posted:I've seen saddleback offering stuff along these lines, but does anyone know how to get a nice dusty-black carbon look to their leather, like this? I'd think it'd involve some sort of abrasive brushing or something of the sort. That's a complete guess, though. Honestly it looks like nothing more than oil-tanned leather, maybe with a small bit of distressing. I've used some in the past, and it's great stuff. Supple, already finished, and smells great, too. It can take some distressing to make it look more worn, but for the most part you can literally just rub the scratches and marks out with your finger.
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Nov 8, 2014 00:54
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No finish of any sort, or am I mistaken? That's the only thing making me gun-shy.
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Nov 8, 2014 01:32
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If you mean the oil-tanned leather, it pretty much has a finish. The leather is impregnated with dyes, oils, and waxes (which is part of the oil tanning process as far as I'm aware), and it has held up in the rain without staining in my experience. It definitely doesn't feel like a topcoat if that's what you're after. It's all very much in/a part of the leather.
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Nov 8, 2014 06:34
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Haha, I'm just a bit concerned about dye rubbing off without a top-coat of sorts, y'know? I might do a small project soonish and try to replicate that coloring/texture.
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Nov 8, 2014 16:03
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Oh, yes, that is certainly a concern. The flesh side has definitely rubbed off dye onto the paper in some journals I've made, and I just rubbed the grain side on a piece of paper and got some rub-off, too (though I had to apply a decent amount of pressure). I've never bothered to put a topcoat on this type of leather but I doubt it would hurt!
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Nov 8, 2014 18:09
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Would anyone know any decent resources with information on making leather clothing? Stuff like jackets, pants and shirts, and also what sorts of leather would be most appropriate?
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Nov 13, 2014 05:38
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Where do you guys source your hardware from? I'm looking for higher quality than the standard Chinese manufactured stuff.
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Dec 14, 2014 01:57
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Alris posted:Would anyone know any decent resources with information on making leather clothing? Stuff like jackets, pants and shirts, and also what sorts of leather would be most appropriate? I have a few books I've found in random places. I don't have much experience making clothing out of leather, so I can't give you too much guidance. WayneCampbell posted:Where do you guys source your hardware from? I'm looking for higher quality than the standard Chinese manufactured stuff. I buy mostly from Tandy, but I keep my eyes open for other sources. Most of the leather retailers I linked earlier in the thread have a selection of buttons and buckles.
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Dec 14, 2014 15:09
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WayneCampbell posted:Where do you guys source your hardware from? I'm looking for higher quality than the standard Chinese manufactured stuff. Etsy, look for the brass workers. Downside: $$$$
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Dec 14, 2014 16:01
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latest. watch strap. french veau swift in black. all hand made.
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Dec 15, 2014 15:19
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Looks nice! Great job on the stitching! What did you do to get the red burnish on the edges? Edge-dye?
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Dec 15, 2014 18:55
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thanks! It's a edge paint produced by SAS Beraud from France. The product has the colour plus a wax component. You melt it with a heating tool.
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Dec 16, 2014 11:06
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Emushka posted:thanks! Any experience with how it holds up long term?
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Dec 16, 2014 17:49
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I'm curious, too. The wax component makes it look super slick (ho ho ho, burnishing pun)!
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Dec 16, 2014 19:15
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WayneCampbell posted:Any experience with how it holds up long term? Geop posted:I'm curious, too. The wax component makes it look super slick (ho ho ho, burnishing pun)! surpisingly well actually. the heating too seals the edge and doesn't really peel off or anything. I've been using a proto wallet of mine & watch straps for about 2-3 years and there is no signs of it coming off. can't really burnish chrome tanned leather...  then again, when that happens, it can easily be re-applied. part of the beauty is that everything can be repaired. the stitching and all. Emushka fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Dec 17, 2014 |
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Dec 17, 2014 13:08
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Edges are always tough. I tend to do mine in black, I use some dye on a q-tip to apply it without too much mess, and then I run the edges through a buffing wheel with a combination of cutting compound at first, and then I switch to carnuba wax. Looks decent and it's fast, especially when working on big pieces like belts. But my edges never look as rad as that red.
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Dec 17, 2014 16:19
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new stuff. 4 card wallet made from dark brown alligator. dark grey insides.  some christmas gifts. 3 card wallets. barenia leather. pink and pistachio green insides. 
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Dec 27, 2014 15:07
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I just came across this thread and there is so much useful information! I have been searching high and low for someone who can reupholster the door panels for my rhd Subaru Legacy. Anyone here have any automotive experience? 
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Dec 30, 2014 00:23
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I have been experimenting with using a laser cutter to do carving and engraving. One of my next projects is armor for a ranger of Gondor, from Lord of the Rings. Here's a work in progress shot  That silvery effect is just the light catching the edges after polishing, but it still looks fantastic. I haven't finished cutting all the pieces, but I'm eager to see the finished product.
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Jan 4, 2015 00:51
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That's great man, what kind of laser is it?
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Jan 4, 2015 22:59
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Bitter Beard posted:That's great man, what kind of laser is it? It's an Epilog Laser, which I can use at a local makerspace in Providence. It took a few projects to get a feel for the right settings and what kind of designs work best. It does leave a rather strong burnt smell, but once I cleaned and polished all the pieces that went away. The final result is better than I anticipated.
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Jan 5, 2015 01:27
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Anyone ever made a pair of custom Moccasins before? I'm looking to make a pair for myself and my wife and I'm hoping to get some experience based tips
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Jan 5, 2015 23:05
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Sammyz posted:Anyone ever made a pair of custom Moccasins before? I'm looking to make a pair for myself and my wife and I'm hoping to get some experience based tips No, but Tandy sells a kit, and I would start there. It's not too expensive and at least it'll give you a good idea of what to expect.
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Jan 6, 2015 18:19
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Pagan posted:No, but Tandy sells a kit, and I would start there. It's not too expensive and at least it'll give you a good idea of what to expect. I've seen the kit, I think it's a bit chintzy for me to really bother with, you just lace it up, no real effort involved AND they look dumb. I am more worried about the patterning/cutting anyway so without that aspect I don't think it'd help much. I'm thinking of just experimenting with paper grocery bags till I get something I like
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Jan 7, 2015 22:39
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Sammyz posted:I've seen the kit, I think it's a bit chintzy for me to really bother with, you just lace it up, no real effort involved AND they look dumb. I am more worried about the patterning/cutting anyway so without that aspect I don't think it'd help much. If you intend to wear them outside of the home, I would recommend at least double up on the sole. Sidewalks are surprisingly hard. The paper bag mockup is a good idea; I used some felt squares I had kicking around.
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Jan 8, 2015 03:51
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TheNothingNew posted:If you intend to wear them outside of the home, I would recommend at least double up on the sole. Sidewalks are surprisingly hard. Tandy sells sheets of crepe rubber to cut out and glue on as soles, my main shoes have crepe soles and it actually wears a loooong time. I had thought about doubling up the sole with bullhide or something but the rubber is probably easier in the long run
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Jan 8, 2015 20:31
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I'd add an extra layer of leather then rubber, for walking on rough gravel and legos.
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Jan 9, 2015 15:44
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Well, what are the moccasins actually FOR? Just house slippers? You don't need much of a sole. To actually take hiking? In the summer, the winter; in the woods or on pavement? Different story. I've seen hiking shoes with tire tread as the sole. Ray Mears wore a pair of First Nations moccasins that were nothing but tanned furs, built with the leather facing out. They are perfect for winter snowshoeing, but you'd tear them up walking on hard ground.
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Jan 10, 2015 17:09
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There's some fantastic work going on in here. Good job guys! Anyways, I'm new to this leather working thing and am interested in getting into it. But I'm not really looking to make garments or the like, more like an interest in placing fantasy maps on really neat looking pieces. Etching or carving and the hanging them on my wall. The thing is, iI have no idea what weight of leather, or what tools would be appropriate. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
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Jan 12, 2015 07:47
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Pagan posted:Well, what are the moccasins actually FOR? Just house slippers? You don't need much of a sole. To actually take hiking? In the summer, the winter; in the woods or on pavement? Different story. I've seen hiking shoes with tire tread as the sole. Ray Mears wore a pair of First Nations moccasins that were nothing but tanned furs, built with the leather facing out. They are perfect for winter snowshoeing, but you'd tear them up walking on hard ground. If they look acceptable enough I'd wear them as kicking around casual shoes. Mostly at home or in the office, for travel to the car or to any given indoors location. You know...shoes
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Jan 12, 2015 18:39
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Sammyz posted:If they look acceptable enough I'd wear them as kicking around casual shoes. Mostly at home or in the office, for travel to the car or to any given indoors location. You know...shoes I don't know how fancy you're thinking, but high end men's dress shoes, the soles are made out of thick layers of leather. Looks like polished veg-tan to me. Easy to work with, and I'm sure it would last a long time, too. You could find some really thick veg-tan, or laminate a few layers of thinner material.
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Jan 13, 2015 01:29
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