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Plain styrofoam is my preference: I don't trust floral foam to not shed a gazillion particles around freshly painted pieces.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:11
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I think I'm gonna paint the runners for that ugly grey plastic on my Sazabi ver. ka. It's all internal inner frame / psychodrama stuff so hopefully the nubs won't show.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:11
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Monaghan posted:I've had fantastic results by drilling holes in a cutting board. nice square surface, can move it around, and don't have to worry about it tipping over. I, too, use a board with holes. No worries about having to periodically acquire more foam, no foam bits floating around the kit bits, and they're weighty enough to stay where I put them. And they're sized so I can fit one in my spray booth. If you're using foam, regular styrofoam is probably going to kick up the least amount of crap for what's probably free. Insulation foam is also a pretty decent choice.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:35
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DamnGlitch posted:So I got my F91 and it looks gorgeous. I can't wait to start working on it. I'm DREADING the rubon decals tho. I just want the F and the 91 on the shoulders but I'm so afraid I'm gonna gently caress it up. The Harrison's blue F91 came with waterslides, I hosed up the solid one so it has the one that is just the outlines instead. You could try one of the third party waterslide places for a set of those maybe? For foam I have garden foam inside a tiny cardboard box (I think it had tissues in?) that I've pierced holes in. I'd definitely spend the 5 minutes it'd take to build a real thing though.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:21
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signalnoise posted:So what is the best choice for foam to stick these sticks into, ya think? Gardening foam? I've got some pink foam insulation left over from another project that I'm using right now. I'm thinking about making a more permanent solution out of two sheets of pegboard connected with bolts that use 3 nuts for spacing. Gardening foam wrapped in a plastic bag. I use bbq skewers to hold up my parts, so I can just poke through the bag without getting bullshit everywhere.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:45
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Bimmi posted:Plain styrofoam is my preference: I don't trust floral foam to not shed a gazillion particles around freshly painted pieces. I avoided using "oasis," (that's what I've always heard floral form referred to as here) for exactly the same reason. That stuff crumbles so readily that it's risky to have around wet paints and varnishes. I used foam myself, but having a proper board would be my ideal solution. You can also use something like a shoe-box and punch your sticks through that. Only issue is that it's not a permanent solution as the holes you create will get wider over time and therefore loose. Also: Project goes on! I had to spend a few weeks decorating (the boring kind of painting) so it's been on the go-slow. I also had to wait for a new airbrush to turn up as my side-feeder has a totally gummed-up cup. Got me an Iwata as a birthday gift! Sneak preview. Remember how I said I thought the ZenRai's chainsaw rifle was kind of goofy and was going to get something 'better'?  Awww yeah.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:55
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I used some dense styrofoam that came with a cheapo remote-control quadcopter. Doesn't break apart and has served me well for almost a year of skewering. Also, very cheap alligator clips can be had in a blister pack at Harbor Freight Tools.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:52
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runwiled posted:I avoided using "oasis," (that's what I've always heard floral form referred to as here) for exactly the same reason. That stuff crumbles so readily that it's risky to have around wet paints and varnishes. You either have the tiniest french press in the world or this is going to a 1/60.
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Oct 14, 2014 20:09
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I got this like half a year ago because Amazon offered it as an add-on item. It's kind of a pain, and I probably should get a new one someday, but eh it still works.
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Oct 14, 2014 20:35
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Progress Report: Beargguy III Head and Arms: Complete! I can't get over how much better all these pieces fit together compared to the old '98/99 kits.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:32
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Oh so that's what was bugging me about Hi-Nu vKa. Just too stout.
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Oct 14, 2014 22:24
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What would you guys suggest as a model to just test poo poo on? With no regard to aesthetics, what's the best price to engineering ratio? I want practice dummies. Current front runner to me is the AGE-1 Titus 1/144 at a whopping 13 dollars. Not the most interesting model in terms of engineering though.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:02
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SDs are literally made to practice modeling techniques on. If you want an actually interesting build though, you're not going to get much better than one of the HG AGE-1s or HG 00.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:03
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BlitzBlast posted:SDs are literally made to practice modeling techniques on. As in the like 5 dollar Super Deformed ones? Or is there another line you're talking about?
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Oct 14, 2014 23:04
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BlitzBlast posted:Oh so that's what was bugging me about Hi-Nu vKa. Do you have a link to that project? It's gorgeous. I love the metallic blues they used but I'm more interested in how they pulled off the build to give it that much more height. On the otherhand, the Hi-Nu was originally really stout (it's like a full couple meters shorter than the actual Nu after all), and I love the chubby little bastard all the same.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:06
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Here. Nothing on how he did it, but if I were to guess he  cut off the bottom half of the torso C30 connects to, and tucked the inner frame down a bit to create a hole for the LED to shine though. The waist has also been tilted up a bit, and I want to say he pulled the hips down a bit a la Unicorn Destroy? The Hi-Nu being so stout is why I like it less than the original Nu. It's one of the things the original MG redesign fixed in my opinion. signalnoise posted:As in the like 5 dollar Super Deformed ones? Or is there another line you're talking about? I feel like you are seriously overthinking this if you're questioning what I mean by SD.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:14
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signalnoise posted:What would you guys suggest as a model to just test poo poo on? With no regard to aesthetics, what's the best price to engineering ratio? I want practice dummies. Current front runner to me is the AGE-1 Titus 1/144 at a whopping 13 dollars. Not the most interesting model in terms of engineering though. You're putting way too much thought into this. What do you even expect from a HG kit in terms of engineering if AGE-1 Titus is supposedly bad? Why does the engineering even matter if you're only buying the kit to be a test for paint? Just buy whatever you think looks cool and go with it.
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Oct 14, 2014 23:37
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I just got bought a MG Exia Ignition. Is there any reason for me to cancel my purchase and get something else instead? Really like the Exia and would complete the collection of it with 00 and Qan[t] but can't help but feel that I should get something else.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:02
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BlitzBlast posted:I feel like you are seriously overthinking this if you're questioning what I mean by SD. Man I don't know poo poo about this, I don't know if there's jargon flying around that I don't know, I'm just not afraid to be honest about my ignorance and yes overthinking and overengineering is almost a hobby in itself for me but that's just who I am.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:07
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Just calm down and build a few kits. There's no need to dive headfirst, ease yourself in. You can always go back and touch up some old kits. Crazy Pigeon posted:I just got bought a MG Exia Ignition. Is there any reason for me to cancel my purchase and get something else instead? Really like the Exia and would complete the collection of it with 00 and Qan[t] but can't help but feel that I should get something else. Uh, MG Exia has some fiddly feet due to its extreme articulation but nothing all that bad. If you like it, I don't see why you shouldn't get it.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:07
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Crazy Pigeon posted:I just got bought a MG Exia Ignition. Is there any reason for me to cancel my purchase and get something else instead? Really like the Exia and would complete the collection of it with 00 and Qan[t] but can't help but feel that I should get something else. the mg's pretty good and the exia rules, so you should keep it.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:14
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BlitzBlast posted:Uh, MG Exia has some fiddly feet due to its extreme articulation but nothing all that bad. If you like it, I don't see why you shouldn't get it. I think I'll put it on an action base so hopefully that won't be a problem. I'm just still debating if it's worth the extra 20 or so dollars for the ignition version.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:15
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Oh well in that case, yes. Unlike vanilla MG Exia, Ignition Mode comes with two LEDs and a chromed blade runner. Also Repair parts but nobody uses those. Exia doesn't have the best AB connector though. You might have to glue it on.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:27
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EthanSteele posted:The Harrison's blue F91 came with waterslides, I hosed up the solid one so it has the one that is just the outlines instead. You could try one of the third party waterslide places for a set of those maybe? I'ma try raw doggin it, er, rub oning it first, and if I fuckit up I'll shoot for a 3rd party maybe. poo poo, I might just make a mini-stencil. It's just 3 letters on shoulder pads. I just couldn't let it go without it though ,it's sucha distinct part of the look.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:31
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I'm pre-shading my Mg turn A right now and I forgot what a pain in the rear end this process can be, I haven't done a preshaded kit in about 5 years. Trying for something different. I'm also not sure if I even like the look of pre-shaded kits, but whattaya gonna do  .
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Oct 15, 2014 00:48
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signalnoise posted:What would you guys suggest as a model to just test poo poo on? With no regard to aesthetics, what's the best price to engineering ratio? I want practice dummies. Current front runner to me is the AGE-1 Titus 1/144 at a whopping 13 dollars. Not the most interesting model in terms of engineering though. HG GM $11!!! You could make 0.15 more of them! Also a line of GMs would look sweet as hell.
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Oct 15, 2014 01:01
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Tenzarin posted:HG GM $11!!! You could make 0.15 more of them! Also a line of GMs would look sweet as hell. Can you link me to the specific purchasing link you're talking about? I DO think that having a bunch of paintjob prototype units all the same model would be pretty sweet  , and the Titus looks cool to me but in a unique way so I don't want to have a ton of em. edit: Nevermind I think I get what you're driving at. Yeah there's a wide array of Gundams in the 11 dollar range if you look outside Amazon signalnoise fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Oct 15, 2014 |
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Oct 15, 2014 01:06
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On the subject of picking model kits to practice on my recommendation is to go cheap and dear god avoid watching build fighters cause you'll buy a kit and not care, it'll cameo on BF and you'll be mad as poo poo you screwed up a kit you'll now buy again. I had no interest in the Master Gundam and now I have 3. I fear BF:Tri EDIT: DAFUQ Gundam Guy has pictures up for BF suits and the Ez-SR and R-GyaGya look badass. Blackchamber fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Oct 15, 2014 |
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Oct 15, 2014 01:33
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More on the 1/60 Gelgoog. I decided to do a straight build, as all of the body colors are correct. All I'm doing is gluing and sanding down the massive gaps in seam lines. The thunder-thighs are about 3.5" tall. You can faintly see the seam line; that's after spending a long time sanding it down. I polished it up with some of the stuff I use to remove fine scratches on my car, and it looks really nice.  The upper arms are done; I just glued together the lower arms tonight. I'll wait for the glue to cure before I sand those down. There's probably .25 millimeters of seam gap to sand down-- hooray for 1980's Gunpla plastic quality!  This is the entirety of the arm movement. No more articulation without possibly breaking the joints. Speaking of which, this kit does use polycaps! They use them in an odd way, though-- they use the same cylinder-with-pegs-on-the-side polycaps for almost all the joints, and they usually use two to a single joint. Here's what I mean (polycaps highlighted):  It's odd, but the joints seem to be relatively sturdy as a result-- if not a bit stiff.  Beam rifle. This and the beam naginata are the only things I'll probably be painting. They were all molded in black-- I gave the beam rifle a hand-painted gray coat. It's actually in two parts because the rear portion (on the spare runner piece) is supposed to rotate to allow the Gelgoog to hold it properly.  Beam rifle with the naginata. I painted the blades blue because the instructions said so; I should've gone with pink instead.
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Oct 15, 2014 04:58
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That reminds me, now that I'm waiting on that metallic green I should work on HG 1/100 DX. Any tips on seam welding? I've been welding, applying two coats of Mr Surfacer 1000, and then sanding, but it still doesn't look nearly as good as that first picture.
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Oct 15, 2014 05:04
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I don't use Mr. Surfacer, actually-- I just glue the parts together with a Testors glue pen, applying enough so that a bit of the glue oozes out of the seam. This glue actually melts the plastic together. I then sand the oozed-out glue after it's cured with your typical hobby sandpapers-- 180, 400, 600, 1000, and up. In the case of the Gelgoog, I then polished the plastic a bit with the car stuff (Meguiar's Ultimate Compound) to hide the fine scratches from the sandpaper. It does kinda gloss up the pieces, though. This whole process takes a long time per part, though... haha.
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Oct 15, 2014 05:15
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BlitzBlast posted:Just calm down and build a few kits. There's no need to dive headfirst, ease yourself in. You can always go back and touch up some old kits. I don't think y'all know my buddy signoise, at all. Dude doesn't do poo poo by halves. I'm surprised he hasn't bought the Neo Zeong yet, honestly. Hey sig, that reminds me, you know what kit you should get? Also someone convince me not to buy Sazabi vKa (and an extra action base) next month.
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Oct 15, 2014 05:47
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Literally The Worst posted:I don't think y'all know my buddy signoise, at all. Dude doesn't do poo poo by halves. I'm surprised he hasn't bought the Neo Zeong yet, honestly. I still have a MG Strike Rouge, MG Strike Noir, MG Musha, MG Sengoku Astray, HG Spallow, HG AGE-1 Normal w/ Razor attachment, HGBF Build Strike Full, Beargguy 3, and a G-Self to get through man. I gotta take it slow here. Give it a couple weeks, I got midterms. Besides, I don't get my new spraypaint and markers to test with until thursday.
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Oct 15, 2014 05:54
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signalnoise posted:I still have a MG Strike Rouge, MG Strike Noir, MG Musha, MG Sengoku Astray, HG Spallow, HG AGE-1 Normal w/ Razor attachment, HGBF Build Strike Full, Beargguy 3, and a G-Self to get through man. I gotta take it slow here. Give it a couple weeks, I got midterms. Besides, I don't get my new spraypaint and markers to test with until thursday. Hey buy me some stuff thanks ol' buddy ol' pal.
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Oct 15, 2014 06:01
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Sazabi vKa, like almost all of the high profile kits, is pretty much an overengineered mess that is more for display than actually playing with. If that's your thing then go nuts.
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Oct 15, 2014 06:04
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BlitzBlast posted:Sazabi vKa, like almost all of the high profile kits, is pretty much an overengineered mess that is more for display than actually playing with. If that's your thing then go nuts. I haven't touched any of my dudes except to slightly repose them since I assembled them, except for the MGs, which I gently took apart and sanded and put back together (I hadn't started sanding at that point, sue me). I'm down with kits that look pretty and not much else.
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Oct 15, 2014 06:06
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Sooo wait you guys are playing with your figs and poo poo? I just set them up on my desk at work and repose them every couple of weeks. (I've transformed the zeta 3 times in the year I've had it. harrowing.)
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Oct 15, 2014 06:14
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DamnGlitch posted:Sooo wait you guys are playing with your figs and poo poo? I just set them up on my desk at work and repose them every couple of weeks. Yeah, the most I do is just switch out the weapons they have. Hell, I don't even like doing that on my Astray Blue Frame MG since getting it to pose with the sword is a pain in the limited amount of space I have on the shelf for it.
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Oct 15, 2014 06:23
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Yeah, I build these things because I like the aesthetics, both individually and when grouped together. It's why my HG/RG shelf is going to stay almost entirely UC stuff, and my MG stuff is "man these two dudes look dope fighting" and "this guy looks dope period". Sazabi vKa and Nu vKa fall into both of those categories.
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Oct 15, 2014 06:26
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My Exia and X are constantly screwing around. And back when I had them out, Gundam 2.0, Force Impulse and my SEED vRMs were fun to mess around with. Meanwhile 3.0, Nu vKa, FA Unicorn, and Banshee Norn just stand there in one pose because that's either all they can do or I'm too afraid to move them.
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Oct 15, 2014 06:28
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