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eddiewalker posted:Don't be a Head-fi'er Oh god.... whitepeople.jpg wait, does his shirt say "my earbuds cost more than your ipod"? if I ever see someone wearing that shirt I'm straight up knocking them out and stealing their earbuds (even though they're probably customs).
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Oct 10, 2014 19:06
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Samurai Sanders posted:Rather than destroying this one, I'd rather return it and replace it it with one that is known to have a better than six foot range. Does anyone know one? There are like a dozen of these on Amazon that have 4+ star ratings, so I don't know which one to pick. Use this thing instead: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011412&p_id=10251&seq=1&format=2 Pulls the audio out of the HDMI interface and gives you every output you could ever want. You then have the issue of having to be physically tethered to the box, but you shouldn't have any noticeable delay.
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Oct 10, 2014 19:42
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Hi IYG Audio Questions Thread! I'm trying to link two 2.1 computer speaker sets across a room wirelessly - basically, I'd like to connect a Y-splitter to an audio source and have one cable running to one set of speakers, and the other cable to a wireless audio transmitter whose signal is then picked up on the other side of the room. It seems like this would be the perfect device: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-4GHz-Wire...=item338cd3e4f0 (besides the fact that I'd need to buy two power adapters, as these would need to be always-on) But I have no idea whether that's a good choice. One key feature I need is for the transmitter/receiver to stay "linked" even if the power goes out, since the speakers will be in an inaccessible area. Anything with a "connect" button I have to push after a power loss is out of the question. Does what I need exist in an affordable fashion?
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Oct 10, 2014 21:29
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KillHour posted:Use this thing instead: But seriously though, is bluetooth audio such a wimpy technology that it can't transmit sound six drat feet without a huge delay and cuts in and out? And why just audio? My bluetooth mice and controllers and stuff don't have any problems, and nor does the proprietary wireless system of the headphones or any of the other devices that use things like that. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 00:11
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Samurai Sanders posted:But that's just line out, right? Not amplified for headphones? I'd really rather it be wireless too. To be fair, you bought a really cheap one.
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Oct 11, 2014 00:33
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eddiewalker posted:To be fair, you bought a really cheap one. So if I buy a more expensive one, it won't cut out at that range and/or the delay will be less?
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Oct 11, 2014 00:33
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Samurai Sanders posted:But seriously though, is bluetooth audio such a wimpy technology that it can't transmit sound six drat feet without a huge delay and cuts in and out?
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Oct 11, 2014 00:50
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I've had good range between my Sony SBH20 (around $30) and iPad. I was using in a four car garage with the iPad in the center or front center and could hear fine wherever I was, even a bit outside the garage with obstructions in the way. One issue I've had is seemingly random stuttering after turning it on sometimes, usually fine after just switching off and on. Not a big deal for me but I remember it happening constantly for someone else. Course if the Vita TV itself has a crappy transmit range it might render it moot for all I know 
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Oct 11, 2014 01:47
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japtor posted:Course if the Vita TV itself has a crappy transmit range it might render it moot for all I know edit: part of the reason I don't want to spend so much money on getting it to work with my headphones. All I do with it is play some old PSP games sometimes. Also, it may someday get a software update to support this headset itself, now that it's being marketed internationally. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 01:53
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I was thinking about it a little more, tried the receiver with anything else to rule out the Vita TV as the problem? And if it is the problem it could just be a defective unit for all we know, barring other VTV users mentioning normal range with their stuff.
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Oct 11, 2014 02:45
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Samurai Sanders posted:But that's just line out, right? Not amplified for headphones? I'd really rather it be wireless too. The PlayStation Gold headset has its own amplifier. Also, those headsets are wireless and come with a USB dongle that apparently works on PCs. If you have a computer in the room (or a laptop), here's what you do: Get the monoprice adapter. Run from the aux out of the adapter to the line in on your computer. Enable "listen to this device" in control panel (assuming you're using Windows). Plug USB dongle into PC. Profit.
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Oct 11, 2014 03:14
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KillHour posted:The PlayStation Gold headset has its own amplifier. Also, those headsets are wireless and come with a USB dongle that apparently works on PCs.
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Oct 11, 2014 04:09
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Samurai Sanders posted:Yeah, this sounds like it might be the way to go, but is it better to use this, or the optical out on my TV? If your computer has an optical input, that's the way I'd go. Most computers don't have optical inputs, though. The best part is that you already have everything you need, short of a $2 cable. http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10229&cs_id=1022901&p_id=1419&seq=1&format=2 KillHour fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 04:12
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KillHour posted:If your computer has an optical input, that's the way I'd go. Most computers don't have optical inputs, though. Oh, how about something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-...al+audio+to+usb Avoid one step of digital to analog conversion. edit: wait, this is just output isn't it. This is such a stupid loving problem to have, seriously. The Vita TV has both a USB port that behaves like the one on a PS3 or PS4 in every way EXCEPT this one, and it supports every function on the PS4 controller EXCEPT for its headphone port. And a normal freaking Vita has a headphone port right on it! Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 04:13
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Samurai Sanders posted:I just checked, nope. You generally need pro equipment (or a sound card) to get optical in. I'll take a look. You may just be better off going with the Monoprice for flexibility - hook the headphones right to that or run it through your computer for wireless. Edit: Here's one. http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2-Channel-Portable-Interface/dp/B00BQ6KSK4 It's not cheap, but it has pretty much everything you'd ever use. Maybe use it as an excuse to learn an instrument? Double Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO This one looks like a cheap piece of poo poo, but gently caress it. It's 26 bucks. How badly can you gently caress up an all digital interface? KillHour fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 04:20
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KillHour posted:http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Direct-External-Channel-SW-29545/dp/B004Y0ERRO Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 04:31
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Samurai Sanders posted:Hm...I don't know what either this or the thing from Monoprice would offer me over something like this, and I would be more flexible than the HDMI in-line box since it wouldn't be bound to just one HDMI input. That would go digital to analog back to digital, while the Sewell would be an all digital signal chain. In theory, it shouldn't matter since DAC and ADC is supposed to be lossless up to the Nyquist frequency (typically higher than the threshold of human hearing), but it could add some noticeable latency. I know when I loop my DAC to my digital mixer, I get about a 100ms latency. As with anything, there's a million and one ways to skin a cat.
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Oct 11, 2014 04:35
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KillHour posted:That would go digital to analog back to digital, while the Sewell would be an all digital signal chain. In theory, it shouldn't matter since DAC and ADC is supposed to be lossless up to the Nyquist frequency (typically higher than the threshold of human hearing), but it could add some noticeable latency. I know when I loop my DAC to my digital mixer, I get about a 100ms latency. Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 05:27
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It turns out there was indeed something right in front of my face that I hadn't tried: my iHome bluetooth speaker. I connected that to the Vita TV, and it has no delay (though still pretty short range, I think it is the Vita's antenna after all). But...it's a speaker. Are there any of these bluetooth speakers that have a line out? This has what LOOKS like one (I think it's designed to chain multiple speakers together) but nothing comes out of my headphones when I plug them into it.
Samurai Sanders fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Oct 11, 2014 |
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Oct 11, 2014 19:28
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Looked back a few pages but figured this was the place to ask: what's the best wireless speaker for 200-300? Should I just get a Sonos? If I want to take it to work and connect it to our hospital WiFi network will it still work, or should I just get a Bluetooth speaker in that case?
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Oct 19, 2014 06:16
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Don't have any suggestions to help but some questions that might narrow things down at least. What kind of wireless range and audio volume are you looking for? What device(s) will you be using with it, and are you open to speaker+adapter solutions? And I guess does it need to be portable (i.e. completely wireless) or just wireless for the audio transmission?
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Oct 19, 2014 22:56
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Samurai Sanders posted:It turns out there was indeed something right in front of my face that I hadn't tried: my iHome bluetooth speaker. I connected that to the Vita TV, and it has no delay (though still pretty short range, I think it is the Vita's antenna after all). But...it's a speaker. Are there any of these bluetooth speakers that have a line out? This has what LOOKS like one (I think it's designed to chain multiple speakers together) but nothing comes out of my headphones when I plug them into it. It might be an input to use as a wired speaker instead - some have outputs though, I'm pretty sure my Sony ball one does
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Oct 20, 2014 06:58
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if I convert from FLAC to ALAC to I lose ANY quality or no?
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Oct 20, 2014 19:57
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rear end Catchcum posted:if I convert from FLAC to ALAC to I lose ANY quality or no? Post your system, please. I wanna see.
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Oct 20, 2014 20:06
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rear end Catchcum posted:if I convert from FLAC to ALAC to I lose ANY quality or no?
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Oct 20, 2014 20:06
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rear end Catchcum posted:if I convert from FLAC to ALAC to I lose ANY quality or no? Asking in a different thread isn't going to change the answer. 
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Oct 20, 2014 20:29
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Here's a quick audio question. Just saw a Denon AVR-689 at the thrift for $15. Thinking of getting it for the office/man cave. Good deal?
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Nov 7, 2014 23:34
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Anything under $20 is a good deal, assuming it works. You can spend more on lunch and end up less satisfied. Considering it's only from 2008 and already ditched to a thrift store, there's probably something wrong with it. The HDMI boards on a lot of mid-late 2000 AV receivers were known to be spotty.
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Nov 7, 2014 23:37
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SnakePlissken posted:Here's a quick audio question. Just saw a Denon AVR-689 at the thrift for $15. Thinking of getting it for the office/man cave. Good deal? Looking at the amazon reviews, apparently it can't process the audio from HDMI sources which seems like a dealbreaker unless you can get and want to deal with coax/optical from all your sources.
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Nov 7, 2014 23:39
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KillHour posted:Spotify Connect hasn't been rolled out to the PC version, yet. There may be 3rd party apps to get around this. Hail Mary as of today it works. iPhone spotify can now control win pc spotify.
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Nov 8, 2014 19:26
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sofokles posted:Hail Mary as of today it works. iPhone spotify can now control win pc spotify. Wow, it does. It even works when you're not on the same network, which is... weird.
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Nov 9, 2014 00:54
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Are there any FM tuner units with a stereo out and IR remote control that aren't $200 rackmount units, something the size of a cheap lepai t-amp? Because the $200 units are all I can find. I don't need a full-blown receiver, just an FM/AM tuner to run into the in-law's soundbar for occasional use. Size is important because of course they picked what looks good, not what would fit their components with room for future addition.
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Nov 17, 2014 03:41
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I'm looking for a mic for a conference room set up. I'm putting a couple of computers in conference rooms so people can use Skype. Sound has been one of our biggest problems. I don't have much audio expertise, so I'm looking for some help. In a perfect world I'd have more than one mic so I can spread them out around the table or tables, since there is a fair amount of area to cover. Wireless would also be awesome, so I don't have to run 20+ feet of cable across the floor. I'm trying to keep this under $150. That being said, I realize this probably can't be done with that budget. When I ran this by management I told them if I can't do this cheap, I will have to spend up to $1k on some more purpose built AV stuff. So with that in mind, what would I want to do if I had that kind of money to throw at this?
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Nov 17, 2014 18:36
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devmd01 posted:Are there any FM tuner units with a stereo out and IR remote control that aren't $200 rackmount units, something the size of a cheap lepai t-amp? Because the $200 units are all I can find. I don't need a full-blown receiver, just an FM/AM tuner to run into the in-law's soundbar for occasional use. Size is important because of course they picked what looks good, not what would fit their components with room for future addition. How about an old smartphone with a TuneIn app?
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Nov 17, 2014 19:29
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devmd01 posted:Are there any FM tuner units with a stereo out and IR remote control that aren't $200 rackmount units, something the size of a cheap lepai t-amp? Because the $200 units are all I can find. I don't need a full-blown receiver, just an FM/AM tuner to run into the in-law's soundbar for occasional use. Size is important because of course they picked what looks good, not what would fit their components with room for future addition. This one is about the size of a lepai amp  Maybe a little bookshelf am/fm/cd unit could work if you can remove the speakers?
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Nov 17, 2014 19:50
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Hey quick questions thread! I'm looking to put together a cheap bang for the buck 5.1 system. Newegg currently has the Yamaha RX-V475 on sale for $225, is that a good deal? Looks like it has some goodies, 4k/3d support, apple airplay. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0MJ-0022-00011
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Nov 18, 2014 04:00
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I'd like to install some in-wall and in-ceiling speakers in my living room. First question is, can I get the open back speakers or do the enclosed type sound better. I'm not so much worried about sound bleeding to other rooms as I am about sound quality on a speaker that I have a limited budget for. I'd like to get away with under $100 a speaker. With install costs at $120 a pop it will get pricey. Speaker recommendations would be great.
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Nov 18, 2014 06:21
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SpaceRangerJoe posted:I'm looking for a mic for a conference room set up. I'm putting a couple of computers in conference rooms so people can use Skype. Sound has been one of our biggest problems. I don't have much audio expertise, so I'm looking for some help. PZM mics from Crown either on the tabletops or for that extra nerd bling, instead of putting them on the tabletops, tape them onto lexan sheets parallel to the tabletops and slightly higher, and they won't pick up so much of the paper shuffling, opening candy wrappers and people interminably clicking their pens and stuff. PZMs have kind of low gain, but I think that's because they're fundamentally designed to cancel out a lot of the ambient room noise that most mics pick up. What remains of the signal after all the reflected noises cancelling each other out is probably one of the more reverb-free mic signals you can get from an all-purpose room mic. You can probably get away with something as cheap as their low-end model, which are only used for this purpose and have 3.5 plugs, or use the XLR higher end models, which will get you cleaner sound, and require phantom power. But you can plug the "sound grabber" directly into a laptop's mic jack.
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Nov 18, 2014 12:35
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visuvius posted:I'd like to install some in-wall and in-ceiling speakers in my living room. First question is, can I get the open back speakers or do the enclosed type sound better. I'm not so much worried about sound bleeding to other rooms as I am about sound quality on a speaker that I have a limited budget for. I'd like to get away with under $100 a speaker. With install costs at $120 a pop it will get pricey. Speaker recommendations would be great. Install them yourself and spend $200/speaker?  It's really not very hard, especially if you have a crawl space/attic above your living room.
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Nov 18, 2014 16:30
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KillHour posted:Install them yourself and spend $200/speaker? It won't be an easy install. Its going into a room with vaulted ceilings and no attic space. Also the joints are going like two different directions and to get a clean install there will have to be a bunch of cuts into the drywall. It will be messy as hell. My main question is about the open back versus enclosed back speakers.
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Nov 18, 2014 18:40
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