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I'd be thinking throw out bearing then, although they usually make noise before they go.
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# ? Oct 15, 2014 18:32 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 15:47 |
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Bojanglesworth the outback looks great, I'd just be patient, the right kid will come along. I would probably ditch the middle finger picture though lol.
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# ? Oct 16, 2014 23:56 |
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After running Cobb OTS maps in my '13 WRX, I did an E-tune with Torqued Performance. Holy poo poo. Only took 1 revision to get it dialed in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KmZZ3y6J54 Just a tune, bone stock.
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# ? Oct 17, 2014 00:27 |
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Oh shiiiit. Just got my VIN for my 2015 STI I ordered back in August. Should be in early next month!!! Now to sell my FRS...
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# ? Oct 17, 2014 06:19 |
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Yeah, it is nuts how much of a difference a little ecu tweaking can make especially when you add a few parts. Unless you have an n/a subaru.
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# ? Oct 17, 2014 06:56 |
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jamal posted:Yeah, it is nuts how much of a difference a little ecu tweaking can make especially when you add a few parts. Unless you have an n/a subaru. I've filled up my gas tank 4 times in a week and a half since I got my car tuned. For some reason I keep deciding to take the back roads along the coast home rather than wade through 101's lake of idiots.
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# ? Oct 17, 2014 15:34 |
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A P0420 popped on my 08 OUtback 2.5i. That's an O2 sensor, not the cat, right? How do I know which is the one for bank 1?
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# ? Oct 18, 2014 00:05 |
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I had my 2011 WRX find its way into a ditch a month ago, and it has since been repaired. It was almost entirely cosmetic damage, with the exception of the oil pan getting dented. I picked it up last night, car appeared to work fine; however when I start to move it in reverse, it makes this horrible grinding/rattling noise when I begin to engage the clutch. The car will move, but will continue to make the noise when the clutch is fully engaged. It sounds completely normal going forward. Anyone have any thoughts on what's going on here? Obviously I have to take it back, but trying to figure out what's going on so I can go in with some information - especially since I'm moving in 1.5 weeks and kinda want my car workin :\
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# ? Oct 18, 2014 15:22 |
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Any chance it's your heat shields on your exhaust rattling?
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# ? Oct 18, 2014 17:12 |
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Big ol' honkin' hose clamps on the heat shields.
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# ? Oct 18, 2014 17:15 |
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joe944 posted:I've filled up my gas tank 4 times in a week and a half since I got my car tuned. For some reason I keep deciding to take the back roads along the coast home rather than wade through 101's lake of idiots. Bay area? If so wsup area buddy
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# ? Oct 18, 2014 17:22 |
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The Jabberwocky posted:A P0420 popped on my 08 OUtback 2.5i. That's an O2 sensor, not the cat, right? How do I know which is the one for bank 1? P0420 is nine times out of ten a dead cat. The late 00s 2.5s were notorious for nuking the cats. To the point where the local dealer techs STOPPED doing diag on them and just full replaced the cats every time a late 00 wrap around header with a p0420 came in. And then they got audited by subaru of america. oops. I'd definitely see what the dealer has to say about it. It's kind of "a thing". And dude with the rattly rear end wrx is going to need to get it on four jack stands or a lift and start it up.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 01:30 |
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I have a 2013 wrx. The rearview mirror fell off, and it doesn't seem like there's enough thread on the screws to keep it fixed to the mount (I have a homelink rear view mirror). It looks like I'm not the first to experience this. Are there longer screws I can buy, or am I really going to have to take the car into the dealer for this? E: also, I an the worst Subaru owner. Bought in June of 2013, just hit 2500 miles. gvibes fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Oct 19, 2014 |
# ? Oct 19, 2014 03:04 |
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CarForumPoster posted:Bay area? Yessir.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 03:06 |
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Slow is Fast posted:P0420 is nine times out of ten a dead cat. The late 00s 2.5s were notorious for nuking the cats. To the point where the local dealer techs STOPPED doing diag on them and just full replaced the cats every time a late 00 wrap around header with a p0420 came in. And then they got audited by subaru of america. oops. Goddamnit. I guess the next logical question is how long can I put off replacing the cat without loving engine stuff up?
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 05:08 |
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If you can see the cat material from an open end of the exhaust pipe, get a long masonry drill bit in there and empty it out. Then put a spark plug anti-fouler between the rear O2 sensor and the pipe. For legal reasons, i have to suggest that this post is a joke, and although it will probably work, you shouldn't do it.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 05:15 |
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The Jabberwocky posted:Goddamnit. I guess the next logical question is how long can I put off replacing the cat without loving engine stuff up? AFAIK it should just be affecting your fuel mileage a bit and emissions.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 05:20 |
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gvibes posted:I have a 2013 wrx. The rearview mirror fell off, and it doesn't seem like there's enough thread on the screws to keep it fixed to the mount (I have a homelink rear view mirror). It looks like I'm not the first to experience this. Are there longer screws I can buy, or am I really going to have to take the car into the dealer for this? When under warranty, you know what to do.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 11:24 |
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I need to make sure my STI can get me to work all winter. I live out in the woods of WV, so real serious cold is rare, but moderate snowfall and ice are pretty much guaranteed at some point. I also have the driveway from hell (steep, partial gravel) and it would be nice to be able to get up and down it without too much drama. So, Blizzak WS80s or Pirelli Winter Carving Edge, studded? I think I am favoring the Pirellis, as they're a bit cheaper and apparently the studs are better on ice at the sort of temperatures I'll be encountering. I don't really care about the noise. Also, is there anywhere other than Tirerack I should be shopping? I'm planning to get them shipped already mounted on some cheap wheels.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 19:05 |
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The Jabberwocky posted:Goddamnit. I guess the next logical question is how long can I put off replacing the cat without loving engine stuff up? Find the info regarding the common cat failure or tsb. Print it out. Bring it to a dealer. Have it billed to SoA.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 19:54 |
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Thorpe posted:Any chance it's your heat shields on your exhaust rattling? I just crawled underneath and found the undercover/skidplate/aero dam was loose since someone didnt put both fasteners back on. I fired it back up, and it still does it. I tried to duplicate the sound without moving, and held the brakes as I slowly engaged the clutch in reverse, and the chatter noise comes back perfectly clear. It definitely sounds clutch area, but only in reverse seems odd to me. Beginning to think someone took the car out for its paces while it was at the repair shop.
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# ? Oct 19, 2014 20:16 |
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Do these engines get more tractory sounding as they age? I have 43000 miles on my 2012 Impreza, in 3rd gear around 2200 rpm I just noticed its a bit more prominent than usual. But also it was 50 degrees out for the first time since last spring, I don't know if the temperature has anything to do with it.
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 15:33 |
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Every single fall I think my subaru is broken. I took it into the shop the first two winters I owned it because I was convinced my engine was toast - no issues 6 years later. They just sound like farm equipment, it's part of the charm!
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# ? Oct 20, 2014 15:48 |
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You should hear my STI block with forged pistons. It's like starting a John Deere.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 00:51 |
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2004 Impreza TS, 5spd. There has been a whirring/whining noise from somewhere below/behind my shifter for the past 25k km, always between 60-80kph, pitch varying with wheel speed (not engine rpm). It made the same sound for the ~30k km the PO put on it, and the entire time I've owned it. What could it be? edit: also hilariously/terrifyingly loud piston slap. It's loving loud, especially in -30ºC, to the point of being afraid to move the car for fear the pistons may escape.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 01:27 |
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stevobob posted:2004 Impreza TS, 5spd. There has been a whirring/whining noise from somewhere below/behind my shifter for the past 25k km, always between 60-80kph, pitch varying with wheel speed (not engine rpm). It made the same sound for the ~30k km the PO put on it, and the entire time I've owned it. What could it be? Driveshaft carrier bearing? Transfer gears wouldn't make sense as they'd keep making noise above 80kph, maybe the driveshaft is slightly dis-balanced and vibrates between those two speeds? nthing subies sounding like farm equipment, especially when cold. Although the newer turbo motor I have now is quieter that my old N/A motor was. Maybe in a few years it'll catch up with the noises.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 01:31 |
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I was wondering too, does the newest gen 2.0L still think it's a diesel, or is it quieter? edit: Never thought of the driveshaft or bearing. I just assumed it was probably something inside the transmission. Thanks for the ideas.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 02:07 |
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The whole tractor noises thing gives the cars more personality IMO.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 02:15 |
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Just stick a loud exhaust on it. Problem solved.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 05:44 |
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I'm thinking of joining Subaru club for my wife's next car. Her Jeep is ready to die (wow, she was able to kill a 4.0) and we wanna get the standard issue Colorado marque. I thought my credit was poo poo so we talked to a No Credit No Problem Best Buy Here Pay Here place, which supposedly has us 'approved' for financing on an 02 outback. But they want 5400 bucks and when I call them back in the morning i'm sure it'll be 19% interest. So, we were thinking about going a little deeper and getting something a couple years newer. 04-07ish? Gonna go talk to the credit union tomorrow and see what they can do for us. I maintain my e39 and am a competent shadetree. Beyond timing belt, what other big questions do I need to be asking on an Outback (automatic, she doesnt want to row) of mid-decade vintage? Head gasket?
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 08:10 |
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Jonny 290 posted:I'm thinking of joining Subaru club for my wife's next car. Her Jeep is ready to die (wow, she was able to kill a 4.0) and we wanna get the standard issue Colorado marque. I thought my credit was poo poo so we talked to a No Credit No Problem Best Buy Here Pay Here place, which supposedly has us 'approved' for financing on an 02 outback. But they want 5400 bucks and when I call them back in the morning i'm sure it'll be 19% interest. So, we were thinking about going a little deeper and getting something a couple years newer. 04-07ish? Gonna go talk to the credit union tomorrow and see what they can do for us. Headgaskets and timing belt. Rust. Rear subframe, rockers, wheel arches. You should be able to remove the plastic trim on the rear fender well and not have it rip off rusty. An 02 outback is worth 3-4k private party for a clean one. 5400 is retarded unless it has paperwork for headgaskets and timing belt and is very clean. The autos never really die, maybe just torque bind after a while. Plus obvious stuff of drive it and make sure nothing shakes at highway speed. Wheel bearings, tires, etc.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 13:47 |
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Not surprised at that price in CO at all, gotta pay the Subaru tax here especially a few months before winter. The lots in Denver are even bigger rip, I actually found the best deal on my '04 in Boulder believe it or not. 0% interest from an Arab guy.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 14:21 |
Hey guys. So my 2004 Impreza is getting both head gaskets replaced this week. I just hit 150k on it and I was wondering if there is any other work I should have them do while they have everything taken apart.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 17:44 |
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Backno posted:Hey guys. So my 2004 Impreza is getting both head gaskets replaced this week. I just hit 150k on it and I was wondering if there is any other work I should have them do while they have everything taken apart. Timing belt and associated gear, might as well do water pump too if it's all apart. Valve cover seals too, they can leak as they get older and they're cheap.
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# ? Oct 21, 2014 17:48 |
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Just had the dealer take a peek at my vibrating clutch on my 13 WRX. Couldn't reproduce it, and they said even if they could, they'd have to take out the tranny, and then, if it's the clutch, that won't be covered under warranty unless it's mechanical failure. So much for babying it for 25k miles. I hope it just goes away after the cold weather is gone, I can't afford a new clutch and labor right now
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 00:53 |
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When does it happen? All the time? Mine used to do it after I would push the car hard through the gears. It felt like it was shuddering when pushing in and releasing the clutch. It would go away after working the clutch in and out a few times. I could even sit still at a light and just work the clutch pedal and it would eventually smooth itself out. I found lots of threads on various forums about it where people just dealt with it. Other threads pointed to the dreaded firewall flex as well. Apparently if you push in your clutch and see the brake pedal move side to side it can indicate that as an issue as well. I think it is hard to see the damage though. Just some ideas.
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 01:24 |
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Aflicted posted:When does it happen? All the time? Mine used to do it after I would push the car hard through the gears. It felt like it was shuddering when pushing in and releasing the clutch. It would go away after working the clutch in and out a few times. I could even sit still at a light and just work the clutch pedal and it would eventually smooth itself out. I found lots of threads on various forums about it where people just dealt with it. Other threads pointed to the dreaded firewall flex as well. Apparently if you push in your clutch and see the brake pedal move side to side it can indicate that as an issue as well. I think it is hard to see the damage though. Just some ideas. Holy poo poo that's exactly it. I'm guessing it's nothing to worry about then, unless it's the firewall flex, which I know nothing about. Time to go do some forum reading.
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 01:35 |
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I never did figure anything out about the issue on mine. I sold the car and went to something else. Not because of any fault in the car, I just have a problem and trade cars all the time. I guess that is why I am here. It is like AA for a car nut only none of us are trying to cure the addiction. I recall some people saying they changed the fluid in the clutch system and it went away for them and others it didn't It is certainly worth trying. The firewall flex is really a tear in the firewall itself. The only fix is to have it welded back up and reinforced. Some posts I saw said that their dealer handled it under warranty and other people dumped the car. I don't think that it is as common as you might be led to believe. Car forums are notorious dumping grounds for people with problems. No one really posts and says "hey my car is running great."
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 01:48 |
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We brought a 2012 Forester home today! It has everything we need and nothing we don't. I had to stare at the drivetrain a bit to figure out what was up; once somebody advised me there's another shaft that goes through the transmission from center diff back up to the front one, it made a lot more sense. Cool design, I like the car a lot and my wife is absolutely in love. I guess we're going flannel shopping in the AM.
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 06:06 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 15:47 |
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Got a question for the thread regarding my wife's 2011 Outback 3.6R Limited. We were driving along tonight when all of a sudden the check engine light came on, the vehicle stability light turned on, the cruise indicator started blinking, and the parking brake light started flashing. Needless to say I freaked the gently caress out and pulled over to try to figure out what was happening. After some quick roadside Googling I thought it might be an evap code from my wife not getting the gas cap back on tight enough. I reseated the cap and restarted it a few times to clear the code and it seemingly worked. After dinner we were driving home and it did the same thing again. After some more googling I'm thinking it might be battery related? It still has the factory battery from 2010 when we bought the car and the dealership mentioned that the battery was going to need replacing soon. I looked at it and it is getting corroded pretty badly. Would a battery be a likely culprit in this situation? Also, battery recommendations? Was looking at an Optoma red top since we live in the frozen hell of northern Indiana.
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# ? Oct 22, 2014 06:16 |