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DaNzA posted:Try going into the configuration section and do an NVRAM rest and erase all settings? I did that after I installed my firmware but I'll try it again just in case. Edit: Yep looks to have worked. Not sure what the hell happened. calandryll fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 05:07
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Is there any disadvantage to having a repeater's SSID/password be the same as the router's SSID/password? I'm worried devices will freak out and switch back and forth between one and the other, dropping packets along the way, or something like that.
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Oct 18, 2014 05:07
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I finally got an ups, it's enough to run my server, firewall, switch and modem for a solid 10 minutes.
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Oct 18, 2014 05:20
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e.pilot posted:I finally got an ups, it's enough to run my server, firewall, switch and modem for a solid 10 minutes. Do you have a way to signal to the server that power is lost so you can initiate a graceful shutdown before the battery depletes? I think most UPS units offer that. (Man, I should make a UPS thread in SH/SC.)
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Oct 18, 2014 08:35
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Ur Getting Fatter posted:Is there any disadvantage to having a repeater's SSID/password be the same as the router's SSID/password? I'm worried devices will freak out and switch back and forth between one and the other, dropping packets along the way, or something like that. If you use the same SSID/auth combination then your client device will be able to switch to the extended network automatically. However, if the extender's signal is stronger than the source wifi network, then it will be picked over the real network. Repeater networks are always slower than the original network because you're using twice as much airtime to accomplish the same network transfer.
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Oct 18, 2014 08:43
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Three-Phase posted:Do you have a way to signal to the server that power is lost so you can initiate a graceful shutdown before the battery depletes? I think most UPS units offer that. Make that thread, there's a lot of (mis)information about UPS out there and having a consolidated source would be great. That said, UPS signalling is great. After my server is told to shutdown it gives my network equipment (24 port switch, AP, and router) about 2 1/2 of up-time. Handy for keeping a connection when on mobile devices.
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Oct 18, 2014 13:29
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Rukus posted:Make that thread, there's a lot of (mis)information about UPS out there and having a consolidated source would be great. I.m gonna do it, but I want to make sure I have good diagrams for things like the different UPS types and power quality waveforms (sag, swell, transient, interruption, outage, phase shift, arithmetic and distortion power factor, flat-topping) all set up.
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Oct 18, 2014 14:15
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One other thing, does disabling DHCP provide any real safety benefit? My understanding is that it prevents the router from assigning an IP address to a new device. IP's have to be explicitly assigned. So if for whatever reason, an intruder device connects it won't ever get an IP address. I've heard this mentioned once on the net, but they said it might not really be that useful and is one of those things that can cause many more problems versus the safety it would provide.
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Oct 18, 2014 17:54
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Three-Phase posted:One other thing, does disabling DHCP provide any real safety benefit? My understanding is that it prevents the router from assigning an IP address to a new device. IP's have to be explicitly assigned. So if for whatever reason, an intruder device connects it won't ever get an IP address. No. Disabling DHCP only inconveniences an attacker. Once they're connected to the same network segment, they can start sniffing any broadcast traffic ("Hello I'm xyz computer over here, where'd ABC computer go?") and just read what IP they should use. On WiFi you don't even have to connect since all traffic is transmitted over the air - just sit and listen in. Encrypted WiFi with WPA2 (or at least WPA Personal) is the way to go. Disabling DHCP on wifi means that many clients simply won't connect. It also means that you have to handhold every guest that you do want on your WiFi. For wired networks, it means you have to keep track of every IP you use and never accidentally assign duplicate IPs to two devices. If you ever decide to change your network's IP or the router's IP, now you have to go to every other static-device and reconfigure those too.
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Oct 18, 2014 18:21
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Cool, thanks for explaining this. I remember the days when I had only one device (laptop) connected via the wireless, not it seems like some people have at least five or six items in their home that talks to the internet this way! What happens on a network (router) if it sees two devices with the same MAC or IP (not sure if that can even happen!) address? Just to summarize, the basic security settings everyone needs are:
And run a few checks from Shields Up (Gibson Research) to make sure your firewall is operating in stealth mode. (No response to unsolicited requests.) Did I miss anything important? Optional one: Wireless isolation - ENABLED (especially if you want to allow friends WAN access but not necessarily LAN access, and it prevents any changes to router configuration via wireless connection) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 19:10
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Disable wireless isolation. Since it only prevents one wireless client from talking to another wireless client that's connected to the same wireless AP. It can still access wired computer or wifi clients on another AP etc. It will also cause you headache when you try to access another computer connected through wifi, or if your printer is connected through wireless.
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Oct 18, 2014 21:14
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So I have an Apple Extreme 5th gen, but the walls of the apartment I live in must be made of lead because if I do not have direct line of sight to my router I lose 50% of my signal strength and once I am in my bathroom/bedroom ( 2-3 walls deep ) I can barely connect to my wifi. Is there a better router for signal penetration or am I just going to have to live with this?
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Oct 18, 2014 23:24
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Three-Phase posted:Do you have a way to signal to the server that power is lost so you can initiate a graceful shutdown before the battery depletes? I think most UPS units offer that. Yes it does, it has a USB connection.
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Oct 19, 2014 00:20
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Beautiful Princess posted:So I have an Apple Extreme 5th gen, but the walls of the apartment I live in must be made of lead because if I do not have direct line of sight to my router I lose 50% of my signal strength and once I am in my bathroom/bedroom ( 2-3 walls deep ) I can barely connect to my wifi. Is there a better router for signal penetration or am I just going to have to live with this? Can you install a repeater station between those? One app I picked up recently (well, due to my paranoia for the most part) on the Mac was WiFi explorer. It's three bucks but if you have something like a Macbook you can measure the signal strength if you want to try moving the router. (But it sometime seems to crash on my Mac.) Also, I did a little experimenting today with the bandwidth meter and streaming on YouTube. I found that if I'm watching a long (like >30 minutes) video in 720HD, fast-forwarding around in the video can easily eat 25-75MB "per click". So it seems that I can eat data that way much, much faster than I expected.
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Oct 19, 2014 03:41
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Beautiful Princess posted:So I have an Apple Extreme 5th gen, but the walls of the apartment I live in must be made of lead because if I do not have direct line of sight to my router I lose 50% of my signal strength and once I am in my bathroom/bedroom ( 2-3 walls deep ) I can barely connect to my wifi. Is there a better router for signal penetration or am I just going to have to live with this? If you're already using 2.4 GHz, then there's not a whole lot else you can do in terms of router settings, sadly. You may want to see if you can move your router to a more central location, or set up another access point somewhere else.
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Oct 19, 2014 06:13
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So it seems like Intel's 7260-AC for Desktops kit has fallen out of stock everywhere except for a few Amazon scalpers. I need a new wireless adapter recommendation for the PC building thread. I liked the Intel desktop adapters because they had a positionable antenna that handled difficult signal very well, were generally very stable, had good speeds, and managed this while still being an internal expansion card. I realize this is a high standard to live up to, but is there anything comparable? I'd rather have the right antenna in a USB adapter than it being internal for internal's sake.
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Oct 19, 2014 10:12
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My current home network looks something like this: MODEM -> ASUS RT-N16 (Stock) -> MOCA -> Linksys E900 (with DDWRT) Each router serves two distinct areas (living room and bedroom) that due to walls in between cannot really see each other via wi-fi. Each room has a smart TV + other connected devices. Originally I had the E900 as DHCP forwarder and all devices were served by the RT-N16. However, because the MOCA connection is not the best, I'd like to have each router and its connected devices on their own subnet, so that if I want to stream content from my tablet to my TV in the bedroom, it doesn't have to go through the MOCA, into the main router, back through the MOCA and back to the bedroom TV. The problem is that with this setup, my devices in the living room can't see the devices in the bedroom. E.G.: I can't stream to the Chromecast in the living room from the bedroom because my tablet won't detect it, or if I'm in the bedroom I can't connect to my living room computer's plex servers. Is there wany way around this?
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Oct 20, 2014 16:39
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Factory Factory posted:So it seems like Intel's 7260-AC for Desktops kit has fallen out of stock everywhere except for a few Amazon scalpers. I need a new wireless adapter recommendation for the PC building thread. Another poster stumbled across what appears to be a drop-in replacement, the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I.
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Oct 20, 2014 16:54
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I know Apple routers are said to be limited customization wise, but I shouldn't have any trouble using one to replace my ISP's crappy combo modem right? It uses PPPoE.
Aphrodite fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 17:41
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You shouldn't if you can still find a dumb DSL modem out there. I don't think they even make them anymore. Assuming you're on some form of DSL you'll still need something to act as the modem. The Airport shouldn't have an issue establishing the PPPoE WAN connection though.
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Oct 21, 2014 17:45
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skipdogg posted:You shouldn't if you can still find a dumb DSL modem out there. I don't think they even make them anymore. Assuming you're on some form of DSL you'll still need something to act as the modem. The Airport shouldn't have an issue establishing the PPPoE WAN connection though. The one I have can be put into bridge mode to act as just the modem, apparently. Alternately, is there a better buy if ease of use isn't really a concern? We already have an Asus router that handles about 90% of the wifi usage in the house. Unfortunately moving it isn't an option or I'd just use that. From what I've found Googling around, the Airport Extreme is among the fastest while still $40-50 cheaper than the others in that range (AC68U and R7000.)
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Oct 21, 2014 17:49
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Three-Phase posted:Just to summarize, the basic security settings everyone needs are: That's a pretty good list. In my experience setting up lots and lots of home networks over the years, these are the changes I would make: Encryption: WPA2 with AES+TKIP. UPnP: Enabled if you have gaming devices but make sure you have a rule in the firewall that halts any external access to UDP Port 1900. "Stealth Mode" is horseshit. Don't worry if your router is pingable or not, worry more about whether it has a solid password. If you have ISP problems then enabling pings on your router can be a real help for letting the remote tech puzzle things out. Well, the remote Tier 3 / Network Ops tech, the first people you call won't know what the hell a ping is and won't be authorized to do that kind of fiddling around.
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Oct 22, 2014 02:15
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CuddleChunks posted:That's a pretty good list. In my experience setting up lots and lots of home networks over the years, these are the changes I would make: Actually you don't want to use TKIP, just go with WPA2 + AES. TKIP is weak to a bunch of attacks and isn't recommended afaik.
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Oct 22, 2014 03:32
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I'm moving into a new house next week and it just so happens to be in the first neighborhood in Austin that will be receiving Google Fiber in a few months (I swear this had no effect on the house we picked... most definitely not). There is this amazing studio out in the backyard (picture of what I mean: http://imgur.com/Ew8JpXO) that is going to serve as my office as well as where my battlestation (gaming PC) will live. It's going to be awesome. Anyway, the fiber box and cable setup will almost surely be installed within the house. This is a problem because I don't want to use my brand new Google fiber connection over WIFI to my main setup. So I think this means I'm going to need to run extra fiber to the studio in our backyard from the house? From everything I've read so far if you're going outside fiber is recommended, but I've never worked with fiber before and have no idea where to start. Any suggestions? I also plan to ask the Google techs if they can fix all of this for me, but with all the demand they are going to have when this launches I'm worried they won't have time. I'm going to need to extend the network regardless even with the temporary connection we'll have until Google Fiber is installed, so if it's an option and not insanely expensive I may as well make it a project and do it myself. Graphics fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 17:38
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Don't do fiber, GigE is fine. Just run an outdoor grade cat6 between the buildings. They will never get to my neighborhood (university hills).
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Oct 22, 2014 18:13
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While personally I'd prefer fiber in that case (and many others), I'd advice copper as well. It'll be a needless pain for you if you've never dealt with fiber before. It's not like there will be many storms around. Distance is small as well.
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Oct 22, 2014 19:53
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Overture posted:I'm moving into a new house next week and it just so happens to be in the first neighborhood in Austin that will be receiving Google Fiber in a few months (I swear this had no effect on the house we picked... most definitely not). There is this amazing studio out in the backyard (picture of what I mean: http://imgur.com/Ew8JpXO) that is going to serve as my office as well as where my battlestation (gaming PC) will live. It's going to be awesome. Fiber is expensive and a pain in the rear end, don't do it. Google isn't gonna touch this with a 10 foot pole, they're gonna provide a drop to the house and that's about it. Run conduit with 3 or 4 runs of Cat6 (This will be way way overkill but since you're running conduit anyway you might as well) plus extra pull strands and get yourself a couple of cat6 surge arresters, one on each end. Note: Also, I ran a setup for years where I just literally strung a wire up in the air between buildings. It worked fine. UndyingShadow fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 20:01
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UndyingShadow posted:and get yourself a couple of cat6 surge arresters, one on each end. Yep, I should've said about those.
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Oct 22, 2014 20:04
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Factory Factory posted:Another poster stumbled across what appears to be a drop-in replacement, the Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I. Why does this need a USB connection on the mobo?
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Oct 22, 2014 20:41
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r0ck0 posted:Why does this need a USB connection on the mobo? That's apparently how the bluetooth portion works. The WIFI connection is carried through the PCI-E bus and the bluetooth connection is carried via the USB connector. The Intel one works the same way.
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Oct 22, 2014 21:53
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UndyingShadow posted:Fiber is expensive and a pain in the rear end, don't do it. If he's trying to get the main drop from Google put in the house, then running fiber to the studio is pointless anyway since it's going to be getting converted at the modem anyway.
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Oct 22, 2014 22:03
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Inspector_666 posted:If he's trying to get the main drop from Google put in the house, then running fiber to the studio is pointless anyway since it's going to be getting converted at the modem anyway. I thought this as well, but I had seen multiple posts around the Interwebs saying that fiber would be much better for the outdoors. That said I've read plenty of reviews on outdoor grade Cat6 after someone in this thread mentioned it, and it seems to be perfectly suitable for my needs. That and the cost of fiber is indeed expensive as gently caress, I had no idea. The main thing I need to figure out is how I'm going to run it. PVC on the ground seems like the easiest method, but it also seems like an eye sore and we have a dog who's going to be running around in the yard. I may have to figure out how to go from roof to roof. Thanks for the advice everyone, I think I'm on a good path here.
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Oct 23, 2014 00:21
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Yeah roof to roof is easiest, if you're going to PVC might as well put a trench in the ground unless you are lazy.
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Oct 23, 2014 00:25
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Dogen posted:Yeah roof to roof is easiest, if you're going to PVC might as well put a trench in the ground unless you are lazy. Rental property, so I'd have to get it approved with the landlord and I'm not sure he'd be ok with me trenching in his lawn, otherwise I'd do it in a heartbeat.
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Oct 23, 2014 00:27
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As long as it's an absentee landlord and you do a good job and re sod it, they'll never know. Or if they do, they can't complain about you improving the property. If they're around and see you working obviously it could cause some problems.
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Oct 23, 2014 00:45
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That is a lot of trouble to avoid using wireless.
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Oct 23, 2014 01:49
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Luceo posted:That is a lot of trouble to avoid using wireless. Google Fiber. Growing up I was the kid who's dad brought home the latest modem as they came out (9600 all the way up to "dual 56k" at one point). I was the first of anyone I knew to get ISDN. I was a beta customer for the first cable modem service in my area at the time. Now I get to have Google Fiber and I sure as poo poo am not using it over wireless.
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Oct 23, 2014 02:22
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Overture posted:Google Fiber. So Google Fiber is faster than 802.11ac?
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Oct 23, 2014 02:28
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Luceo posted:So Google Fiber is faster than 802.11ac? According to Google's own FAQ on the subject for the fastest speeds you should be hard wired. According to DSLReports reviews, and tests and reviews from other sites the highest anyone can achieve (that I have found so far) over 802.11ac is around 400Mbps. Wired people are reporting 950Mbps+. It might seem silly because we're talking about so much speed compared to anything else in the states, but I'm going to utilize it if I can. Would it not drive you crazy knowing that if you moved your entire rig + office 20 feet into another structure that you could get double your already insane bandwidth? It would drive me crazy. Edit: I've found one person claiming to get 600Mbps+ via 802.11ac, but he's in an open room (not through multiple walls, outside 20, and through another wall like I would be) and using a $200 router. Running Cat6 will cost a fraction of that. Graphics fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 02:36
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Overture posted:According to Google's own FAQ on the subject for the fastest speeds you should be hard wired. According to DSLReports reviews, and tests and reviews from other sites the highest anyone can achieve (that I have found so far) over 802.11ac is around 400Mbps. Wired people are reporting 950Mbps+. jesus titty-loving christ that's fast 
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Oct 23, 2014 02:38
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