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I got this one. Used the steak knives I sharpened with it last night and they cut through rib eye like it was tenderloin. Very pleased with the result and a lot easier than the spyderco sharp maker. http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...ywords=edge+pro
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Oct 20, 2014 12:47
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That's the one I ordered, took it to my kiritsuke that needed serious thinning after I chipped it a few months ago, it's about 1/8in shorter now, but cuts like butter. I definitely recommend this thing, although I may order some Shapton glass pro stones, I'd really like a 15k mirror polished edge. This thing came with a 120, 320, 600, and 1500.
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Oct 21, 2014 11:56
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Has anyone tried those estone stones that are always recommended when you buy the clones?
Hobohemian fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 18:07
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<self-promotion> I'm selling off my Moritaka cleaver: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3673098 Dropping the price to $240, but figured I'd see if anyone in this thread is interested before I updated the price and bumped the sale post.
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Oct 22, 2014 02:52
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If you had to receive a knife block set, somewhere between $500 and $1000, what would it be? Gun to your head, no "i'd take it and sell it and buy a single $1000 fish knife" stuff.
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Oct 22, 2014 07:36
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Beast of Bourbon posted:If you had to receive a knife block set, somewhere between $500 and $1000, what would it be? It seems like you're asking "Give me incredibly bad opinions on the subject exclusively". You don't need a knife block set. Get a 30 dollar set of steak knives, a petty, a chef's knife, a bread knife, maybe a long serrated if you suck at cutting things which I suspect you do; It won't be 500 loving dollars to accomplish that with top of the line poo poo and you'll get all the utility I'm assuming you want from it.
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Oct 22, 2014 11:03
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So I'm thinking about replacing my crappy Ikea Santoku and OXO 4" parring knife with some Tojiro DP knives plus a decent steel and sharpening setup. I'm trying to decide between the 170mm Santoku or 240mm Gyuto. I know that the Gyuto would be better for large cuts of meat but I don't work with those too often, I also know it would be better for mincing garlic and herbs because of the larger curve. However I'm pretty used to the Santoku shape and I feel like the length of the Gyuto might be awkward to get used to, any opinions? P.S. This is just for home cooking, I am not a professional or anything.
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Oct 22, 2014 12:16
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Sounds like you already know you want the santoku. Get what you want, not what someone else would prefer.
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Oct 22, 2014 12:33
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Sounds like you already know you want the santoku. Get what you want, not what someone else would prefer. Well, I've never really used a chef's knife style knife much so I'm pretty tempted to experiment with something new. BTW, how are the cheap bladeguards from chefknivestogo?
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Oct 22, 2014 13:09
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Anyone have experience with the wicked edge sharpening system? In the UK it's pretty close in price to the edgepro setup (and not wildly different to getting a knockoff edgepro with a set of better stones given the stones here are $30 each). To me it looks easier to use than edgepro and offers more consistency because of being able to keep the same settings whenever you sharpen the knife, but i'm not sure if i'm just throwing money at the shiny. I was figuring that with a decent amount of money spent on knives I should be prepared to invest in maintaining them. PST fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Oct 22, 2014 |
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Oct 22, 2014 13:12
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I got this one. Used the steak knives I sharpened with it last night and they cut through rib eye like it was tenderloin. Very pleased with the result and a lot easier than the spyderco sharp maker. The product description says it's fixed-angle, but the reviews seem to suggest the angle is adjustable. Can you adjust the angle on that to sharpen on a smaller angle? My knives are mostly Japanese-made and I don't want to sharpen them on too large an angle.
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Oct 22, 2014 13:17
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Yeah it's definitely adjustable. I think they just mean that you can set the angle at a fixed spot.
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Oct 22, 2014 13:39
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Great, thank you!
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Oct 22, 2014 16:23
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Well, I've never really used a chef's knife style knife much so I'm pretty tempted to experiment with something new. If you want to experiment with a chef's knife, just buy a Victorinox Fibrox and play with that. It's super cheap and even if you end up not caring that greatly for it, it's decent quality and can hang around in your drawer as a "beater" knife. Like, I have a nice gyuto, but if I'm just slicing an avocado in half, I'll use my Victorinox, stab the pit and smack it against the trash can to dislodge it, poo poo like that. Also pretty handy for stabbing/slicing home intruders.
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Oct 22, 2014 17:09
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Well, I've never really used a chef's knife style knife much so I'm pretty tempted to experiment with something new. I'd say if you're used to smaller knives and are only using it in a home kitchen that you might want to consider a 210mm gyuto instead of 240mm. They tend to feel a little more comfortable to home cooks and fit a little better on smaller boards/cramped kitchens.
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Oct 22, 2014 18:01
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:That's the one I ordered, took it to my kiritsuke that needed serious thinning after I chipped it a few months ago, it's about 1/8in shorter now, but cuts like butter. I definitely recommend this thing, although I may order some Shapton glass pro stones, I'd really like a 15k mirror polished edge. This thing came with a 120, 320, 600, and 1500. Before you buy, remember that there's not one universal system for stone grit. If you want to get a stupid sharp edge on the cheap, an old belt and polishing paste is a good buy.
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Oct 22, 2014 19:54
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:So I'm thinking about replacing my crappy Ikea Santoku and OXO 4" parring knife with some Tojiro DP knives plus a decent steel and sharpening setup. I'm trying to decide between the 170mm Santoku or 240mm Gyuto. I know that the Gyuto would be better for large cuts of meat but I don't work with those too often, I also know it would be better for mincing garlic and herbs because of the larger curve. However I'm pretty used to the Santoku shape and I feel like the length of the Gyuto might be awkward to get used to, any opinions? I was using a smaller dirt cheap chinese-style cleaver (so pretty much like your santoku) before I got a 240mm Tojiro Gyuto. I wouldn't worry too much about this kind of decision, even if you decide on the Gyuto and find you're not totally comfortable with it to start you'll get used to it eventually as long as you realize it's used a bit differently than a santoku. I personally found it interesting to learn how to use the different style of knife more effectively over time. What WILL prevent you from being able to use a longer knife comfortably is having a cutting board that's too small for it, in which case it would be nothing but infuriating. I'd say to be totally safe in this regard your board should be at least as wide in both directions as the entire length of the knife (i.e. blade + handle). You would probably do just as well with the 210mm version if you're really worried about it being too long, but I've never found the length of the 240mm to be of any disadvantage so long as the cutting board is appropriately sized. But again, as others have said, if you already know you like santokus then that would obviously be the safer bet.
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Oct 22, 2014 22:15
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Hey guys. I'm getting married soon and totally wanna get some kick rear end knives. I've pretty much written off any European knives due to this thread and others. I have one Tojiro DP Chef knive (or gyuto I guess). I have no loving clue how to sharpen. I got one of these and tried to do as I saw in videos/instructions and did not seem to get anywhere. So as of right now, after months of usage, its dull as gently caress. I want to learn how to sharpen my existing knife and see its true potential. I also want to get a few more kick rear end knives (the famous Chinese cleaver, maybe a santoku, and one or 2 more?) I think for the most part I want good stainless (as opposed to carbon) only because my future wife tends to less careful in cleaning the knife than I am. I think maybe i'd like to get one good carbon knife, though, to see what all the fuss about. So basically I'm asking for some sharpening tips/purchase recommendations and then some purchase recommendations for a relatively inexperienced knife guy like me. I do love to cook and chop all kinds of stuff.
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Oct 23, 2014 16:23
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Gozinbulx posted:Hey guys. I'm getting married soon and totally wanna get some kick rear end knives. I've pretty much written off any European knives due to this thread and others. Well - first off, you have a very good knife and if you replace it, you'll end up with the same problem soon. Doesn't mean you can't put knives on your registry of course. There's a nice Tojiro DP Santoku (I have one and my wife loves it) and it's hard to mess up buying some paring knives. I think a 4-5 inch serrated utility knife can also be very useful (sometimes called 'tomato knife') but as this thread has pointed out a thousand times, the three knives you need are chef, paring, and bread. I'm not really clear on why you want carbon. I mean, it's fine, but to my mind the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. Will it make a huge difference to you in the kitchen? Not really. I mean, carbon can (doesn't always) have a better balance between hardness and toughness, but the fact that it's vulnerable to both moisture and acid are pretty major in my mind. You won't see a functional improvement over a good knife like a Tojiro, is what I'm saying. If you're really curious, maybe buy an Opinel, like this one? http://www.amazon.com/Opinel-No8-Carbon-Pocket-Knife/dp/B002SCUO04/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414103112&sr=8-1&keywords=opinel+carbone Notice that Opinel makes a lot of kitchen knives too, but that those are all stainless! For sharpening, I think sharpeners based on the Edge Pro model are the easiest to get consistent results with without requiring a ton of skill. http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-...2FH9V3N35ZZJ29J Just make sure you set the angle yourself - often the preset angles are totally off. Somewhere between 20 and 16 degrees is good for most regular double-beveled kitchen knives.
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Oct 23, 2014 23:28
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ma i married a tuna posted:I'm not really clear on why you want carbon. I mean, it's fine, but to my mind the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. Will it make a huge difference to you in the kitchen? Not really. I mean, carbon can (doesn't always) have a better balance between hardness and toughness, but the fact that it's vulnerable to both moisture and acid are pretty major in my mind. Carbon knives aren't tougher, they're generally more fragile. They hold a wicked edge, and are my go to protein knives. Not vulnerable to moisture or acid at all really, just wipe your knife often enough, and let that patina develop.
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Oct 23, 2014 23:34
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Carbon knives aren't tougher, they're generally more fragile. They hold a wicked edge, and are my go to protein knives. Not vulnerable to moisture or acid at all really, just wipe your knife often enough, and let that patina develop. Higher % carbon: More brittle -> less malleable. Basically the knife will chip more easily but the edge isn't subject to as much bending. I would say using a honing steel more often is less of an inconvenience than having your knife shatter when you inevitably drop it.
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Oct 23, 2014 23:58
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Greatest Living Man posted:Higher % carbon: It's actually a lot more complicated than that, because other factors---edge geometry, heat treatment, and so on---will often contribute more to the real-world behaviour of a piece of cutlery than the theoretical specs on the steel in it. Chef De Cuisinart posted:Carbon knives aren't tougher, they're generally more fragile. They hold a wicked edge, and are my go to protein knives. Not vulnerable to moisture or acid at all really, just wipe your knife often enough, and let that patina develop.
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Oct 24, 2014 00:15
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Yeah, but we're talking kitchen knives here. In the current market, a carbon steel knife is usually japanese and HRC 62+. They're delicate, absolutely will chip if not cared for properly. In kitchen knives I don't think you're going to find many stainless knives that are harder than carbon counterparts.
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Oct 24, 2014 00:30
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Why have you written off European knives? They're a lot less forgiving about bad sharpening or rough handling and they get pretty much just as sharp as comparable Japanese knives.
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Oct 24, 2014 00:34
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Yeah, but we're talking kitchen knives here. In the current market, a carbon steel knife is usually japanese and HRC 62+. They're delicate, absolutely will chip if not cared for properly. In kitchen knives I don't think you're going to find many stainless knives that are harder than carbon counterparts. And kitchen knives with stainless blades up in the 60-62 HRC range aren't at all unusual these days. Tojiro treats VG-10 to 62 HRC, for example, and they're not exactly esoteric.
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Oct 24, 2014 00:51
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SubG posted:
Tojiro DP series are actually 59-60. Their ITK series are 62-63, and I believe they're White #2.
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Oct 24, 2014 01:15
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Tojiro DP series are actually 59-60. Their ITK series are 62-63, and I believe they're White #2. And this kind of makes the point. The blade steel is theoretically the same in the DP and the Flash knives, but the properties are different because of the different treatment.
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Oct 24, 2014 01:27
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Yeah, once you get into the materials science side of it, it quickly becomes confusing unless you're REALLY invested. There's not a single best steel, since so many factors come into play. There are literally dozens of viable knife steels, which, if they get the right heat treat and are shaped and ground correctly, can all do comparable jobs. That's not to say there are no differences, but it does make most blanket statements wildly inaccurate - except that the major, defining difference between stainless and carbon steel is susceptibility to oxidation. Moisture and acid hasten oxidation, and they're common in the kitchen. It's easier and cheaper to make a carbon steel that's very hard while retaining toughness - which, as pointed out, is the opposite of brittleness - but neither carbon nor stainless escape the general rule that hardness correlates with brittleness. It's the balance between the two that makes a great knife material, and it's as dependent on the material as it is on the heat treat. TL:DR: get one of the knives that's recommended over and over in this thread because they are good knives.
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Oct 24, 2014 04:06
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I couldn't find any CCK stuff in the local China town (neither the larger stores nor smaller hole in the wall shops.) Is there any cheaper place to get the small slicer than chefknivestogo.com? $60 seems like too much.
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Oct 24, 2014 05:23
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How do ya'll feel about the Richmond Artifex AEB-L knives vs the Tojiro DP line? The Tojiros have nicer aesthetics to me but I'm more concerned about performance, usability and durability.
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Oct 24, 2014 06:30
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What about ceramic knives? Far as i saw they are quite sharp and tend to keep the sharpness, but i'm kind of scared that they will easily break!
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Oct 24, 2014 11:25
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:I'd like to borrow $200M
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Just don't. They are nearly impossible to sharpen yourself and they break easily. They're a novelty material.
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Oct 24, 2014 12:31
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But it was so nice when i first tried one! Slicing the bread was like going through a piece of butter. Sad that they are crap after they loose the sharp edge.
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Oct 24, 2014 13:17
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:How do ya'll feel about the Richmond Artifex AEB-L knives vs the Tojiro DP line? The Tojiros have nicer aesthetics to me but I'm more concerned about performance, usability and durability. AEB-L is very flexible, I wouldn't use one for my chef's knife, I have the Artifex honesuki, and the flexibility there is great. I own the 10in DP gyuto, 12in DP suji, and the DP paring knife. All hold an edge for a few weeks at work before needing a light sharpen.
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Oct 24, 2014 14:01
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So it seems like the build and quality of the Edge Faux's is good enough, but are the stones up to snuff? I read some reviews saying the machine works well but to get the actual EdgePro stones.
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Oct 24, 2014 19:20
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My poo poo is sharper than when I bought it, but higher quality stones wouldn't hurt I'm sure. I'd try the stones that come with it first.
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Oct 24, 2014 20:55
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Gozinbulx posted:So it seems like the build and quality of the Edge Faux's is good enough, but are the stones up to snuff? I read some reviews saying the machine works well but to get the actual EdgePro stones. I haven't done the comparison, but I've used mine for at least 100 sharpenings and I can get shaving edges every time. Maybe the proper stones are better, but the ones that come with it work.
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Oct 24, 2014 22:08
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The big problem with the edge faux stones can be the backing, you can buy flat bar steel off of Amazon ($10 for 36" or so, cheaper if you buy it local) cut it into 6 inch pieces and contact cement the stone to it when the plastic backing fails on your faux pro stones.
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Oct 24, 2014 22:53
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My parents sent me a care package for my first apartment, and my dad tossed in a 3-pack of knives. What are these things used for (are they all paring knives), and are they quality?
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Oct 26, 2014 00:03
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| # ? May 9, 2024 04:12 |
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GobiasIndustries posted:My parents sent me a care package for my first apartment, and my dad tossed in a 3-pack of knives. What are these things used for (are they all paring knives), and are they quality? Those are different styles of paring knife, yes. I particularly like the sheepshoof one, the curved one on the bottom. I don't know what use the topmost is, but it might excel for small cutting work on veggies, etc. It would certainly work well for cutting cheese.
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Oct 26, 2014 00:30
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