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I thought the ac was a little low. It turned out to be a 12oz can worth low.
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Aug 19, 2014 03:42
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| # ? May 28, 2024 08:19 |
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I've learned very quickly that low enough to notice usually means more than 12oz low. My sister's truck has a total capacity of 34oz according to the underhood label.
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Aug 19, 2014 05:21
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I think you were right. Cools so much better in 90 plus temps but the gauges read a little lower than it should be.
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Aug 23, 2014 05:26
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EightBit posted:I've learned very quickly that low enough to notice usually means more than 12oz low. My sister's truck has a total capacity of 34oz according to the underhood label. My car's total capacity is 0.9 lbs, according to the label. It's barely cooling, so I guess it's -0.1 now? 
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Aug 23, 2014 17:17
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I'm going to be buying a car with an R12 system, and my dad has huge cans of it stored. Am I going to have to DIY repairs on it, or will shops accept giant cans of R12 to fill old cars with?
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Aug 23, 2014 18:13
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Das Volk posted:I'm going to be buying a car with an R12 system, and my dad has huge cans of it stored. Am I going to have to DIY repairs on it, or will shops accept giant cans of R12 to fill old cars with? I don't see why they would. If they have R12 equipment they're gonna want to sell you their stock, and guarantee their work based on using parts and consumables of a known quality, rather than a can of something that says something on it that some customer brought in. I suppose it depends on just who is running the shops around your area. If it were me, I'd convert it and make bank selling the R12.
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Aug 24, 2014 01:37
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some texas redneck posted:My car's total capacity is 0.9 lbs, according to the label. A pound is sixteen ounces, so it probably has 2oz?
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Aug 24, 2014 08:06
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.... why do I always mix up 12 and 16 oz.  But yeah, it's definitely very low. Enough that I don't bother with it during the hottest parts of the day, it just blows coolish humid air when it's 100 with the sun out. That's why I have power windows and a sunroof!
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Aug 24, 2014 12:22
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My AC died today while driving. There is no leak, the idle changes when I press the AC button on/off, the compressor clutch doesn't engage when pressing the AC button and jumping the pressure switch doesn't kick on the compressor. Is my fuckin compressor dead?
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Sep 24, 2014 02:11
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BlackMK4 posted:My AC died today while driving. There is no leak, the idle changes when I press the AC button on/off, the compressor clutch doesn't engage when pressing the AC button and jumping the pressure switch doesn't kick on the compressor. Is my fuckin compressor dead? What kind of car do you have, and which pressure switch did you jump?
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Sep 24, 2014 02:12
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Ended up being that someone swapped a 7.5a fuse in place of the stock 30a fuse for the AC compressor. Finally blew. Replaced it and I'm good to go. Derp.
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Sep 24, 2014 02:30
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Had AC for a day then it dumped the magic smoke of burned electrical poo poo out the vents. Turned off the AC with the button and air continued blowing, but was ambient temperature (AC is on the same fuse as the blower). Welp. It's a 91 318is.
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Sep 25, 2014 06:11
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Do all of the fan speeds still work? The only electrical in the ductwork is usually the fan resistor.
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Sep 25, 2014 07:41
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So, Air Conditioning Guru Types - I need to re-route the refrigerant lines in my engine compartment, for the new engine install. The compressor is now at the lower left (drivers side) and the evaporator inlets on the firewall are naturally on the right (passenger) side. The low pressure line is the trick, here - I'd like to run it along the firewall, over the trans tunnel, and down along the valve cover to the compressor, but I'm not certain there's room back there. Alternatively, I can run it all the way up the fender, across the core support, and back in to the compressor. So, what are my options? Can I run some kind of hard line? Are all AC hoses so THICK, or can I use something like braided line that might be more slender? Is there a practical limit to the length of the lines, and is there a relation to their diameter or material? Oh, it's a Classic Auto Air system, in a 1966 Dodge.
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Oct 24, 2014 01:09
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Steel hard line works for everything that's fixed solid to the body, you could use that for the low pressure line and run it along the firewall. If you run along the valve cover, you could also use hardline for that running back from the compressor, for everything fixed solid to the engine. The barrier hoses are needed to join the body-mounted bits to engine-mounted bits, preferably with some extra length to give you more slack for engine vibration/twisting under load. You could also run hardline along the firewall and up the driver's side fender, and just have hose going straight to the compressor. Which side are your condenser inlet/outlet on? Are you fabricating stuff entirely from scratch? E: Barrier hose (the rubber hose you're using) is designed specifically to keep the very small refrigerant molecules from diffusing out (and even so they still do, albeit on the scale of a decade or two), don't go trying to use whatever braided line, as it might not be rated to properly contain gases of that type. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Oct 24, 2014 |
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Oct 24, 2014 03:23
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I suppose I will have to fabricate the low pressure side from scratch, at least - I have the original hardline from the evaporator to the dryer, and the hose that was in place from the dryer to the hardline that went to the condenser. So that part is at least present. I need to fabricate/procure/figure out the line from the condenser to the compressor, and then from the compressor to the evaporator. The inlet and outlet for the condenser are on the drivers side. Possibly foolish question - is there a top and a bottom on the condenser? Currently, the compressor connects on the "top" connector. I'd guess that inlet always needs to be on the upper side? Of course, the compressor is a modern job with o ring connections, rather than the screw on kind that were on the previous compressor, so I'll have to adapt to that. So much fun. The current hard lines appear to be aluminum - is steel preferable? How is the piping sized? Man, I am clueless about this stuff... for now!
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Oct 24, 2014 03:34
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Aluminum is what I meant, sorry.  Yes, the compressor should discharge into the top of the condenser -- the hot high-pressure refrigerant condenses inside the condenser (hey, look at that ) and exits through the bottom; you want the condenser discharge to be all liquid.Whatever hardline you currently have should be sufficient diameter, just get more of that.
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Oct 24, 2014 04:06
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How are you making the hard line? I've yet to find a tool that makes the o-ring seats that doesn't cost a fortune. Sure you could use flares, but no one uses that anymore. Are you using a parallel flow condensor? Also, there are to sizes of barrier hose, one is much smaller in OD and much easier to do smaller radius bends with.
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Oct 24, 2014 04:22
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I'll have to make up the hard lines, I'd guess, simply because I doubt I'll find anyone that could do it for me. Vintage Air sells -8 tubing with the ends already present in stock lengths - If I can make one of those work for the bulk of the line, then I'm thinking the compressor end of that line is where I'd add my flexible hose bit to handle the vibration/engine movement, and I can either use Aeroquip hoses for that, or get the hose made locally. The current/old setup had a -8 hose from the evaporator to the compressor, so I'd guess 1/2" hard line would be appropriate there? If I can't get it to route between the motor and the firewall, what's going to happen when instead I've got a tube that's, oh, 10 feet long, to run all the way around the engine compartment? As for the condenser, it's... Whatever Classic Auto Air provided with the system when I installed it. It's probably crap. Is there benefit to trying to source a larger/better condenser?
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Oct 24, 2014 12:42
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Is your system able to use a thermal expansion valve? If so, what ever it came with should be ok. If its a capillary tube, well, I am out on that one
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Oct 24, 2014 14:33
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Is your system able to use a thermal expansion valve? If so, what ever it came with should be ok. If its a capillary tube, well, I am out on that one Uhhh.. I have no idea. It's whatever the folks at Classic Auto Air "engineered" to be "marginally OK, and mostly functional." Any thoughts on the length of the hoses / hard lines? Is doubling the length of the low pressure line to the compressor going to do anything wacky to the system?
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Oct 24, 2014 23:58
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jhcain posted:Uhhh.. I have no idea. It's whatever the folks at Classic Auto Air "engineered" to be "marginally OK, and mostly functional." Changing the length won't do anything but increase the necessary refrigerant charge. The critical parts are the evap and condenser, compressor, reciever-drier/accumulator and expansion valve/orifice tube; if those are right, the system will cool. All the lines and hoses are just for conveyance. Only issue would be if the lines were too small inner diameter and induced a restriction at the wrong point in the system, if they're large enough to flow the needed volume that's all that matters.
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Oct 25, 2014 00:08
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jhcain posted:As for the condenser, it's... Whatever Classic Auto Air provided with the system when I installed it. It's probably crap. Is there benefit to trying to source a larger/better condenser? The bigger and more efficient the condenser, the more heat the system can pull out. At least that's my understanding. I remember seeing o-ring ends that you can sweat onto the ends of tubing you bend up, but I can't find them anymore. That would be the way to go so you can make everything yourself. Locally there is a shop that makes hard lines (according to their Facebook pictures) yet they refuse to quote me a setup. I need to fix the dual AC in the 645csi. Let me know if you find out more.
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Oct 25, 2014 03:20
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My 1993 Ford Exploder AC compressor just poo poo the bed. I was told I need to repair a whole bunch of poo poo by a very smooth guy with a large clipboard who pretty much started writing numbers down instantly after touching stuff. What was annoying was knowing he wasn't 100% wrong, but he was talking so fast, I didn't catch how much is bullshit. Basically, because the compressor seized up, he stated the whole system could have shavings in it (probably) and that would cause the whole system to be hosed if I just replaced the accumulator and compressor. Is this true? I don't want to pay the insane price he quoted (some poo poo like $800-1100) and I'm not afraid to install poo poo myself. Vegas is incredibly comfy this time of year, and the clutch is disengaged from the compressor, so that I can't accidentally damage things more. What plan of action should I take? I know I have to get someone to recover the R134A, and to charge the system, but of all the parts between, what do I need to replace? Are kits like these a decent deal?
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Nov 10, 2014 11:15
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You'll (strictly speaking) only have to replace the compressor and drier, but make sure you flush the whole thing very thoroughly. Metal shavings and flakes will get up into all the lines and the condenser when a compressor seizes, and they will destroy a new one in very short order. What you should do is flush the ever loving poo poo out of it, then take the pipes apart and replace all the seals with ones made of the same material as the seals recommended way back in the beginning of the thread. It probably has a capillary tube setup, and you should replace the capillary tube as a preventative measure(they're generally real cheap), yours probably clogged when the compressor ate itself.
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Nov 17, 2014 05:14
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Kilersquirrel posted:It probably has a capillary tube setup, and you should replace the capillary tube as a preventative measure(they're generally real cheap), yours probably clogged when the compressor ate itself. Agree with flushing the poo poo out of everything, and the new cap tube will probably come with the accumulator that needs to be replaced anyway. If not, it's like $3. Yes, you can absolutely do it totally correctly and cheaper yourself if you already own an air compressor, hand tools, vacuum pump and a gauge set/refrigerant tools. But if not that's probably a high end fair price assuming it's going to be done properly. You're already looking at $300 in parts, another $100 in materials. $600+ in parts depending on new vs reman. I sure as hell wouldn't pay it or use new/factory parts. Or even "real" refrigerant. But that's another story. What are the chances you can get you hands on a vacuum pump and a set of gauges? We can probably internet you through this for a few hundred bucks in parts and computer duster spray cans.
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Nov 17, 2014 05:30
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Motronic posted:Agree with flushing the poo poo out of everything, and the new cap tube will probably come with the accumulator that needs to be replaced anyway. If not, it's like $3. I don't know. I'm really new to tooling around, and I've never dealt with a pressurized system before; that being said, if I got recommendations on each part, I can just keep buying components until I have them all ready. I see you use this pump in your OP, and Amazon has too many choices for guages.
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Nov 17, 2014 17:45
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Wasabi the J posted:I don't know. I'm really new to tooling around, and I've never dealt with a pressurized system before; that being said, if I got recommendations on each part, I can just keep buying components until I have them all ready. Well, if you really want to go get tools for this..... http://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacuum-Pump-Gauge/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416245752&sr=8-5&keywords=ac+manifold+gauge+set BAM. Looks like a good deal. I saw that when I followed your gauge link.
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Nov 17, 2014 18:36
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Just because you lot are all freezing your arses off doesnt mean its not loving hot elsewhere in the world! I've gotten off my arse and bought myself a gauge kit, pump, can tap (had to come from the USA because NOONE in Aus sells the things!) some UV dye and some PAG46 oil (which practically everything down here runs) and will be attempting some AC top ups soon. Hilariously, the local Electronics chain Jaycar sells air dusters that ARE R134a, so that makes life really easy! Mates 06 Liberty sedan (Legacy to you guys) with the EZ30 motor just cracked an alloy fitting and dumped all its refrigerant, so thats going to be a full dissasemble and vac down job, but most of the others are just mediocre AC concerns, my landcruiser isnt exactly icy any more, the better halfs Tiida is just cool and my mates landcruiser just clicks on the compressor but makes absolutely no cold. Bout $200 in tools so far, but I should be able to make that back more than easily considering a regas for ONE car down here is $250+ (R134a from BOC is somewhere around $550 for 9kg) so at $20 for a 250gm can of air duster, its very cost effective!
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Jan 20, 2015 09:14
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I highly recommend doing a drier replacement on anything that isn't performing well. Replacing the drier on my car and doing a vacuum/fill dropped my temps by something like 25 degrees.
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Jan 20, 2015 18:04
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Is it Ok for the AC system if I drive my Miata with the AC compressor removed for a while? I imagine additional moisture may accumulate, but that's what the new dryer is for when I replace the compressor, correct? I had the compressor pulled when I was having the timing belt done because it was leaking everywhere and the warranty said I needed to ship it back before I got a replacement (turns out they cross ship after all, but it's too late for that now). The car has been sitting in my garage waiting for the new compressor but I'd really like to take it out tomorrow, which is expected to be a rare sunny and warmish day.
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Jan 24, 2015 01:42
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I know I replied in the stupid questions thread, but as long as the alternator/WP aren't on the same belt as the compressor you should be just fine. I should have clarified, the moisture will get in whether you drive it or not, it won't make a difference either way if it's already been open. Just know that your defrost won't be as effective if you get condensation inside, it uses the A/C to dry the air before warming it back up.
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Jan 24, 2015 01:47
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OK, revised question: new compressor finally arrived and shop is replacing it tomorrow. Shop owner doesn't think we need to do the expansion valve since the system has only been open for a week. I'm not sure if this is true or if he doesn't want to spend extra time pulling out the glovebox (he's doing this for me outside of normal business hours). Should I ask that he do it anyways?
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Jan 24, 2015 02:52
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Did you have the black death? If yes, replace. If no..... its a gamble. Its easier to just do it and be safe
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Jan 24, 2015 03:12
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It's ok to leave the system open but you need to vacuum twice. Once with the original drier and then again with the new drier.
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Jan 24, 2015 15:24
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Hi guys, Here's what I am working with: I bought and finished repairing totaled a 2013 Subaru Impreza 2.0i with 7,900 miles. It suffered a front end collision which cracked open the a/c condenser and evacuated the system. My last car: I fixed up the same type of accident damage 8 yrs ago. When charging that system I just used one of those little r134 guns with a little gauge. I "flushed" the air out by releasing r134 in one port while the other was open...added a lil oil.... then charged fully.  . System worked great for the 100k miles till I sold it though!  So... I want to do this car correctly. I already have purchased the gauges, vacuum pump, can tap etc. Underhood sticker shows HFC-134a capacity = 16-18 oz Compressor Oil = DH-PR (no capacity listed) I do have some questions: 1. I don't see a drier anywhere. Could I be missing where this is? Or is it possible that this system is doesn't have one? (cant imagine how this would be) discountacparts.com , oreilly, rockauto etc only show a compressor, no drier parts? 2. I have no way of knowing how much oil left the system, so I have an 8oz bottle of pag100 oil sitting here. Googling DH-PR oil appears to lead to that = pag100. How can I find out how much oil to add? I have heard going over to a degree can be ok, just reducing cooling capacity. 3. Besides replacing the drier, what else should I be doing? A flush? Thank you for all your help! Edit: English SomethingOrAnother fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 01:18
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Depending on the setup, it can either have a reciever-drier (thermostatic expansion valve setup) or an accumulator (if it's a fixed orifice system.) Look for "accumulator", if the part is listed you have the latter setup and that's the part you need.
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Jan 25, 2015 01:57
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Pretty drat sure I know the answer to this, but any difference between household/commercial refrigeration R134a and car R134a? We had a compressor replaced at work recently. The tech left behind a 30 pound bottle that feels to be about 1/4 full (guessing by weight). We've been calling him for over a week to come back and pick it up, and he won't return our calls (he also vented the entire system into the restaurant, which made for awesome migraines). I have some Harbor poo poo gauges; all 3 cars here could use a top off, same with my boss's car. I did mention we've been trying to call the guy for over a week, right? And he won't return calls? It's basically abandoned at this point, as far as my boss is concerned. (also he vented the entire system to interior air when he replaced the compressor, did a 5 minute vacuum, and didn't replace the dryer - I give this compressor less than 2 years, the old one was less than a year old and the exact same brand/model).
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Jan 25, 2015 13:59
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some texas redneck posted:Pretty drat sure I know the answer to this, but any difference between household/commercial refrigeration R134a and car R134a? I think that poo poo is affecting your memory.
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Jan 25, 2015 16:39
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Same stuff. R134a is R134a. And that tech is a sloppy lawbreaking rear end in a top hat who should not be used again...
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Jan 25, 2015 19:20
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