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Porkchop Express posted:Perhaps I am reading the specs wrong, I was going off the depth of cut measurement which said 2-3/4 in. x 5-7/8 in, which I assumed was 2-3/4 deep and 5-7/8 wide. But now that I think about it thats kind of silly because the blade goes below the surface where the wood sits, and there is obviously more than 4" space between that and the blade! You are not silly, it will not cut through. If depth of cut is 2 3/4, a 4x4 is actually ~3.5", so you will have about 3/4" uncut. Usually people just flip the board over. The motor being on the side can also sometimes get in the way of making a cut. Better saws have the motor in the back. Like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-double-bevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-61776.html
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Oct 29, 2014 04:25
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wormil posted:You are not silly, it will not cut through. If depth of cut is 2 3/4, a 4x4 is actually ~3.5", so you will have about 3/4" uncut. Usually people just flip the board over. The motor being on the side can also sometimes get in the way of making a cut. Better saws have the motor in the back. Like this one: If its only that much left I can manage flipping it over, it beats spending top dollar for a bigger one. My fiance is really in to building this thing but I foresee her losing interest, if she does at least I won't be out a ton of money!
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Oct 29, 2014 04:56
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Porkchop Express posted:If its only that much left I can manage flipping it over, it beats spending top dollar for a bigger one. My fiance is really in to building this thing but I foresee her losing interest, if she does at least I won't be out a ton of money! get the 12" from HF, best of both worlds!
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Oct 29, 2014 14:21
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dhrusis posted:get the 12" from HF, best of both worlds! Eh for that price I would just get a dewalt from Home Depot. If we continue with this hobby I may upgrade later, but we shall see.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:22
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Porkchop Express posted:Eh for that price I would just get a dewalt from Home Depot. If we continue with this hobby I may upgrade later, but we shall see. The most expensive tool is the one you buy twice.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:59
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mds2 posted:The most expensive tool is the one you buy twice.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:48
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Porkchop Express posted:Eh for that price I would just get a dewalt from Home Depot. If we continue with this hobby I may upgrade later, but we shall see. hmmm, I recall the HD dewalt is like 300+? You can get the HF double bevel 12" for like 130 or less on sale/coupon. Don't pay full price for anything at HF ever ever ever.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:53
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If you aren't in a rush it might be worth waiting till the end of Nov for some sick Black Friday sales.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:55
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Are Garlick and Sons decent for saws? Couldn't find a Veritas tenon saw anywhere nearby so picked up one of those in a 12" tenon crosscut. Next step, workbench. I'll take pictures so you can all laugh at me.
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Oct 30, 2014 00:23
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Well she wants to do this Saturday, but I was at Home Depot today picking up some work stuff and saw they had a ryobi miter saw marked down to $100 for the 10" version that will cut up to a 4x4. Looks like it's not quite that low on their website, don't know if someone in the sore picked up but I snatched one up so I guess I am set!
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Oct 30, 2014 00:24
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Falcon2001 posted:Are Garlick and Sons decent for saws? Couldn't find a Veritas tenon saw anywhere nearby so picked up one of those in a 12" tenon crosscut. I've never heard of them but their website claims that the saws are made in the UK so if it's true then that's a pretty good start. A lot of the old brands that were known for quality tools got sold off and now they're made in China. Marples is a good example of that. I've been working on my workbench off and on for about a year now. I just started chopping mortises in the legs last month. I've been using the laminated tops on sawhorses for a bench in the meantime.
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Oct 30, 2014 00:41
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Work benches are one of those things I constantly want to remake. I'll make a new one for the garage and then a week later have ideas for a new one. I really should just settle in and make a Roubu style bench some day...
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Oct 30, 2014 15:04
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Realizing suddenly that I don't have any sort of work surface, not even a sawhorse. I think I might just go buy the 5' harbor freight workbench and if I get uppity later I can make my own. It's on sale right now so it's a pretty good deal. http://www.harborfreight.com/60-inch-workbench-93454.html
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Oct 31, 2014 00:54
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I've looked at that bench many times and it looks like a good bench. I think most people complain about the drawers only pulling out half way, but you can easily switch out the drawer guides to full extension.
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Oct 31, 2014 01:03
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mds2 posted:I've looked at that bench many times and it looks like a good bench. I think most people complain about the drawers only pulling out half way, but you can easily switch out the drawer guides to full extension. Yeah. It comes disassembled (and presumably boxed), so I'll see if I can get lucky and it'll fit in my GTI so I don't need to pay shipping. My kingdom for a bigger storage area in my car.
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Oct 31, 2014 02:18
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I'm looking for a beginner level work bench as my first project. Anyone have any good ones? I found this one today. http://www.familyhandyman.com/video/device/mobile/t/57561330/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench.htm?m_n=true#.VFL_Dhko7qA
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Oct 31, 2014 04:18
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Whale Cancer posted:I'm looking for a beginner level work bench as my first project. Anyone have any good ones? I found this one today. I'm in the same boat as you and that looks pretty nice. The only thing missing is a vice, which I assume is not terribly hard to setup or tack on.
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Oct 31, 2014 04:52
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I'm gonna build Matthias Wandels bench design for my first bench, later I'm planning to make a proper roubo bench with scandinavian L-vise. https://woodgears.ca/workbench/build.html I like the dowel joining idea. I don't have an old door so I'll laminate together a top using leftover 2x6s or 2x8s boards, not sure of their exact size, big and wide though. The idea is to use a bunch of short boards and laminate them together (because I have more short boards than long ones) and then take a long board and rip it in half and make end caps from it, probably using a tongue and groove arrangement to attach it to the laminated boards. Given wood movement I wonder if I ought to glue the endcaps, or if I should use screws with oval holes. Probably the latter. Next step would be adding drawers, I'd also add an extra board on one front leg to make it flush so I can build and mount a leg vise there.
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Oct 31, 2014 07:34
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Is it worth it to build a router table around my plunge router?
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Oct 31, 2014 14:34
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RadioPassive posted:Is it worth it to build a router table around my plunge router? If you don't have a router table already, then yes, you want to have one. There are plenty of tasks that aren't realistic to do with a handheld router but can readily be done with a table. I don't know specifically about the plunge aspect though. I have a plunge base for my router, but I haven't used it much.
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Oct 31, 2014 14:46
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RadioPassive posted:Is it worth it to build a router table around my plunge router? You can, but you'd be happier with a normal base. Or better yet a router lift. Plunge bases can be a real mother fucker to adjust accurately while upside down mounted in a table.
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Oct 31, 2014 14:53
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Whale Cancer posted:I'm looking for a beginner level work bench as my first project. Anyone have any good ones? I found this one today. That's probably not going to be heavy enough for a woodworking workbench. For a general utility workbench I like the Hammerzone design: http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html
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Oct 31, 2014 16:27
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mds2 posted:The most expensive tool is the one you buy twice. no, pretty sure it's festool
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Oct 31, 2014 17:06
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rotor posted:no, pretty sure it's festool Don't buy the wrong Domino the first time.
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Oct 31, 2014 17:41
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When I worked only with power tools a regular garage style bench was fine but the past couple years I've been using more hand tools and those workbenches don't cut it. If you see yourself ever using a handsaw or plane, look into building a woodworking bench like Schwartz' $175 workbench. edit; typo wormil fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 31, 2014 17:48
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Whale Cancer posted:I'm looking for a beginner level work bench as my first project. Anyone have any good ones? I found this one today. I built this same bench and it does the job. I probably have a few hundred pounds of tools on the bottom and top shelves, but when I'm hand planing or sawing it still has the tendency to wobble and move a bit. A couple of modifications I have made to it as I have progressed my woodworking: Twin screw vise at the front left (cost more than the bench itself), a small piece of hardwood sticking up at the front left as a plane stop and an additional 2x4 at the front apron so it is flush with the top for clamping. My next bench will a proper woodworking bench from Chris Schwartz's book. I really like the idea of using the bench as a clamping surface and the shelf/pegboard on this bench doesn't really allow for that. That being said, I'm probably not going to build a bench until I move again which won't be for another 3 or 4 years.
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Oct 31, 2014 22:10
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You bastards talked me into a table saw. I am looking around for a used one but I'm not having any luck. It's unfortunate I live in a small town and I'm about 90 minutes from a major city. Are all of the portable or bench top table saws crap?
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Nov 1, 2014 00:56
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I have a shitbox Pro Tech bench table saw, which is effectively 1.5ft x 1.5ft with one of those thin sort of aluminum tops/fences. It works fine for ripping boards but if you want to do panels/anything fancy like you see people doing with cabinet saws then you'll want to build a base/stand around it. I took mine and made a stand around it and added more surface area with some plywood/melamine. Then I found some closet rails from a architectural salvage and used that with some oak wood to make a homemade biesemeyer fence and miter slots etc.
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Nov 3, 2014 00:48
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I have a question, it probably sounds dumb but what is varnish? I am specifically thinking of the water based varnish used a lot by Matthias Wandel and others in videos and projects. Translating it gives an ambiguous answer. I guess it's either an acrylic based lacquer or polyurethane. I bought some water based poly finish to use on shop projects and the like, though perhaps this varnish, if it's not that, is better suited?
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 13:55
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Falcon2001 posted:Realizing suddenly that I don't have any sort of work surface, not even a sawhorse. I think I might just go buy the 5' harbor freight workbench and if I get uppity later I can make my own. It's on sale right now so it's a pretty good deal. I have this bench and I really like it. I beefed it up quite a bit by enclosing three of the four sides with 3/4" plywood panels trimmed with long strips of solid oak, which pretty much totally eliminated any racking issues and will allow me to eventually build cabinets into the bottom. I also added a cheap 6" vise onto the front left side, where it JUST allows enough clearance for the drawer. (I had to drill out holes to mount it and cut through a screw in one of them, but it wasn't a big deal.) And I put it on four stamp-down casters from Rockler to make it mobile, and screwed a 3/4" plywood board under the legs to make a bottom shelf, which is just the right size to hold some plastic storage tubs and also helps prevent racking. I don't do a ton of hand tool work so I don't know how well it would stand up to heavy duty planing even with the panel mods, but for my purposes it's plenty sturdy. Plus if you get it on sale and use a 25% off coupon, it's practically worth it just for the benchtop.
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Nov 3, 2014 15:21
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So my fiancé and I built our coffee table this weekend! For the most part it came out ok, but all of my miter cuts kept coming out 1/16 to short! Luckily every cut was that way so it all fit together fine, I'm just trying to figure out why. I think the biggest problem is that it was the first time I have ever used one, I am sure the problem has to do with me not lining the blade up correctly next to the cut. I was using the built in laser guide, which I thought I had zeroed in, but maybe I should just use the blade to line my cuts up?
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Nov 3, 2014 16:21
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Laser is probably aligned with the center of the blade but you should align the blade to one side of your cut line. As you learned, precision usually trumps accuracy.
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Nov 3, 2014 18:09
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I'm thinking of building an impeller like this for a dust collecctor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBxFNUWD2GQ One thing Im confused about the cyclonic systems, is where the dust comes in. Are the chips/dust going through the impeller itself ? Does anyone have a good diagram of how this sort of thing works ?
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Nov 3, 2014 18:44
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I think ideally you'd have that AFTER a cyclone separator, which would lead to just the smallest amount of fine dust actually making it to the impeller. However, having said that, my dust collector gives no shits and everything goes right through the impeller itself, although there is a (extremely coarse, like 1" holes) grate on there.
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Nov 3, 2014 18:49
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Yah I was thinking if the motor isn't exposed to the shrapnel then I might not give a poo poo.
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Nov 3, 2014 19:01
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wormil posted:Laser is probably aligned with the center of the blade but you should align the blade to one side of your cut line. As you learned, precision usually trumps accuracy. Yeah, I just need to play with it and get it dialed in. The instructions don't even reference adjusting the laser, I just found the adjustment screw after looking around the saw for it.
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Nov 3, 2014 19:41
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Sylink posted:I'm thinking of building an impeller like this for a dust collecctor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBxFNUWD2GQ The whole point of the cyclone (actually a thien baffle in that video) is to separate away 99% of the air before it hits the filter. Some dust extractors are built so everything goes through the impeller, this is not a good design IMO. The separator should ideally come before and get rid of most debris, then you can filter the air before returning it back into the shot, or preferably, vent it outside. If you're building one like this I think it's more important to separate before the impeller as it might not take the same kind of abuse as a metal one. John Heisz disliked that the impeller was on the wrong side to the point he rebuilt his: http://www.ibuildit.ca/Workshop%20Projects/dust-collector-rebuild-1.html
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Nov 3, 2014 20:25
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It does seem weird to put impellers on the debris side but I suppose it's an efficiency thing. I do like that little twang when I suck up a wasp.
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Nov 3, 2014 21:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:I have a question, it probably sounds dumb but what is varnish? I am specifically thinking of the water based varnish used a lot by Matthias Wandel and others in videos and projects. Translating it gives an ambiguous answer. I guess it's either an acrylic based lacquer or polyurethane. I bought some water based poly finish to use on shop projects and the like, though perhaps this varnish, if it's not that, is better suited? Varnish is... gently caress trying to explain it wiki is accurate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varnish
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Nov 3, 2014 23:47
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So I'm trying to get some ideas for Christmas gifts that I can pump out fairly easily that aren't chopping boards. I'm going to give tealight candle holders in a yin yang design a shot. Any one got any other go to builds?
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Nov 4, 2014 00:38
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