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Broken Loose will always and forever own because of that Wu Tang Kabuki video he made.
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Oct 29, 2014 14:52
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BlackIronHeart posted:You'll want to use neodymium rare earth magnets. Lee Valley Tools site says they have them but the smallest is 1/4", which is much too big. If you have a hobby store around you, they'll likely have some small enough to work. Thanks man, wasn't even sure what sort of magnets to be looking at! AbusePuppy posted:Magnetizing the Dreadknight and Terminators should be pretty easy, due to the way their weapons attach; the power armor guys will be a bit harder. I usually go with 2mm disc magnets as sort of the minimum size you can work with easily and will give enough holding power to do stuff with, and they're about right for doing arms on that size of guy. I don't know what sort of hobby stores Canada has or what they carry, but I've typically ordered my magnets online via Ebay or a retailer websight. I figured ordering online would probably be best. For the PAGK, I guess I may not have the magnet flush with the shoulder. Instead leave it jutting out a bit, and maybe drill down into the torso a little more to take up what overhang is left. Squifferific posted:http://zigmystermagnets.com/ These guys are in Toronto. I've ordered from them before and they're pretty good. The tiny tiny magnets you need are like $5 for 50, but the shipping costs still end up being more than the cost of the magnets. Thanks! $5 for 50, plus shipping and handling seems like a pretty good deal to me. Maybe this is a naive question or one that doesn't belong in this thread. For those who have magnetized models before, did you put the magnets on before or after you primed/painted the model? I'm wondering if it is easier to scrap pain off of the magnet once it's glued in, or glue it after painting? My only concern is that any time I get super glue near a model (like when I'm repairing a broken metal mini) the paint around the area seems to become discoloured, like there is some white precipitate forming. Any tips or advice? E: found a decent tutorial on exactly what I'm looking for. Might be helpful for other goons in my boat Sir Teabag fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 15:12
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Definitely fully assemble the model including all magnets, then prime + paint.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:16
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A rotary tool or Dremel makes magnetizing things super easy. I use 1/8" by 1/16" N52s for my marines and termies, and using a 1/8" bit to bore holes has saved me so goddamn much time over using a pin vise. Also, a rotory tool is just a good thing to have for hobby stuff and around the house work too.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:21
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Even with modern manufacturing things aren't always the spec size. If it'a 1/8th" magnet use that size bit or lower. If it doesn't fit, tilt the bit in the hole or scrape it back-and-forth to enlarge it slightly. Test fit and repeat until it fits snugly without glue. That is the point when you use superglue and then top it with greenstuff if it's a finished surface. If it's hidden by a weapon/arm/whatever there's no need to cover it with greenstuff/paint (greenstuff provides a softer surface that won't scrape off as easily as metal-on-metal).
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Oct 29, 2014 15:34
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Takkaryx posted:A rotary tool or Dremel makes magnetizing things super easy. I use 1/8" by 1/16" N52s for my marines and termies, and using a 1/8" bit to bore holes has saved me so goddamn much time over using a pin vise. Also, a rotory tool is just a good thing to have for hobby stuff and around the house work too. Holy poo poo don't use power tools. I've magnetized hundreds of plastic and metal models with just a drill bit in a hand grip.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:35
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I use one of these, works a treat when I can manage to hold everything at once. Need a clamp that screws in where the handle does so I can hold the drill with my desk before I try drilling really tiny things though.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:42
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 So I'm pretty much done with my first Krieger, only thing it's missing is a final wash on everything else but the leather which has already been washed with Sepia. But kinda uncertain if I should go with agarax or something else. Anyone got any ideas or suggestions? I will probably have to fix up the edging on the holster and the eyeglasses into something darker.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:23
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krushgroove posted:But I have a question for anyone who's built a Warhound titan, I know there are a couple of folks here - about how long did it take to assemble, and how many spots can you magnetize for transport or movement? Hixson built mine and magnetized the torso joint and weapon arms. He had to cover the torso portion in green stuff to try and reduce the force of the magnet so that the thing would come apart. The whole project took him about 60 hours because of all the pinning.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:31
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Sir Teabag posted:Maybe this is a naive question or one that doesn't belong in this thread. For those who have magnetized models before, did you put the magnets on before or after you primed/painted the model? I'm wondering if it is easier to scrap pain off of the magnet once it's glued in, or glue it after painting? Paint comes off of magnets very easily; in fact, it's almost impossible to get it to stay on (which is why it's good that magnets are pretty much always buried under something.) LingcodKilla posted:Holy poo poo don't use power tools. I've magnetized hundreds of plastic and metal models with just a drill bit in a hand grip. Eh. For small magnetization jobs it's certainly not necessary, but a low-power Dremel is actually really handy for slightly larger work as well as for a lot of other hobby purposes. Way easier than filing or drilling away at a piece for 10+ minutes trying to remove a bunch of metal or resin.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:52
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I honestly can't wait to the finished product on this, probably one of the more interesting Work in Progress threads. Really loving cool. Pro-Click http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/619332.page
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Oct 29, 2014 17:05
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Cooked Auto posted:
I REALLY like what you have done with this model.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:18
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NovaLion posted:What is this awesome model and where can I get it? It's pretty obviously a kitbash. The parts I recognize for sure are the staff, which is the Lord/Sorceror box staff with a CSM box Tzeentch symbol on top of it, with the scrolls replaced by chain bits. The combi-melta could be from either that box or the chaos terminator box. The legs and torso are, I think, also regular chaos terminator parts. And finally, I have no idea where the head is from; I'd be as curious as you to know.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:21
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It looks like a third party head (or maybe a WHFB skull with flames greenstuffed on) with a Khorne Juggernaut collar around his neck.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:26
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JerryLee posted:And finally, I have no idea where the head is from; I'd be as curious as you to know. It looks like the flaming skull from the Empire Wizard kit.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:27
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Borrowed a friend's Imperial Armor 13, and it's a very neat book. Not much broken/overpowered stuff, and precious few D-strength weaponry, but then I guess Apocalypse is not the focus here. But it has tons of character, amusing choices and stuff that should have been out there ages ago. Like the Noise Marone sonic dread, for instance. I've wanted to model a EC dread as a big evil metal amp since got into the game, but now there's actual rules for it! There's nothing there that will make Imperial Knights scared, or make Guard players go "Hey, those chaos dudes sure get a good deal on their vehicles", but the book drips with cool. Dreads with big drills that shoot fire into the vehicles they just drilled. Flyers from behind reality that shift and change location because the laws of physics are for wimps. Hell, it even has a few daemon engines that don't adhere to the boring WS3/BS3 statline. Of course, there's still the usual rules mismanagement we've come to know and love. The writers still thing that Fear and Soul Blaze are amazing upgrades. Having a transport eat d3 of the models you love so much you bought an expensive ride for them? Certainly worth 50 points! But still, by now it's pretty clear: the guys who actually give half a drat about making rules with flavor and flair are over at Forge, and GW is focusing on churning out new, bland Nid monsters, invincible underpriced Knights, and codices where nothing can be made uber-scoring if it's not already a troop.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:27
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Ghost Hand posted:I REALLY like what you have done with this model. Thanks.  Even if it's mostly thanks to Reynold who suggested the basic colour scheme. Gonna have to do some colour experiments for the gasmask hoses for the rest of the guys as well as weapon colours. Then I've got a skull banner to paint too. Mounting that is gonna be interesting since I don't think I actually have a drill or pin vice small enough. The worst part is that I now want get a squad of Elysians and paint them up as WW2 Paratroopers because I found a painting guide for that earlier. Good thing Christmas is "around the corner".
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Oct 29, 2014 17:40
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I wouldn't call knights invincible and undercosted. I used to, then I actually played against them and they're really not that bad. Last game I played my knight died before I even had a turn thanks to some deep striking stern-guard. They're good, but I would not call them broken.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:46
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All my (both) experiences with knights have been fun so far, even when they don't do much - and at least they always seem to manage something. They're able to survive a lot of fire, can dish out a lot of punishment, don't suffer the Dreadnaught problem of being easy to tie down in combat for the entire game, but also are not invulnerable and present a pretty fair challenge. Their rules are a little clunky, but I'm pleasantly surprised and feel like they're a pretty decent addition to the game. Gonna convert me up a pair.
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Oct 29, 2014 18:06
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LVhpurK7mkQ&feature=youtu.be Looks like book 4 is coming soon.
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Oct 29, 2014 18:26
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Hollismason posted:I honestly can't wait to the finished product on this, probably one of the more interesting Work in Progress threads. This is the pro-est click of all loving time
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Oct 29, 2014 18:36
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Master Twig posted:I wouldn't call knights invincible and undercosted. I used to, then I actually played against them and they're really not that bad. Last game I played my knight died before I even had a turn thanks to some deep striking stern-guard. Mind telling us what armies you have played against them? My CSM and my Dark Eldar both struggle to even scratch one, let alone more. Having all of the advantages and none of the downsides of both MCs and vehicles, plus great speed, D-strength weaponry, and vaporizing stuff around you when you blow up to make sure that whatever got you is not on the table anymore are a rather great package that no other unit can boast.
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Oct 29, 2014 18:36
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Sephyr posted:Mind telling us what armies you have played against them? My CSM and my Dark Eldar both struggle to even scratch one, let alone more. Having all of the advantages and none of the downsides of both MCs and vehicles, plus great speed, D-strength weaponry, and vaporizing stuff around you when you blow up to make sure that whatever got you is not on the table anymore are a rather great package that no other unit can boast. The sternguard was an imperial fists list. Oddly enough, he was also running a knight that warp lances and devourers from hive tyrants brought down turn 2. A common foe of mine runs space wolves, and several times more he's charged it with thunder wolf cavalry and taken it down. Lascannons from my buddy who plays imperial guard have killed it many times. And just last week it was taken down in a one-two combo from scourges and a ravager against dark eldar. The only person I've played that wasn't able to deal with it at all was a demon player.
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Oct 29, 2014 18:45
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Demons really have a rough time against Knights. Their only real option is assault, and that's only with Belakor (he has armorbane), anyone with the armorbane greater gift, a Lord of Change with a staff (hope he gets armorbane too!) and a Demon Prince with Iron Arm. Touch of Rust can help in a pinch, but you're not going to get enough attacks to get more than a single hull point.
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Oct 29, 2014 19:17
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panascope posted:Hixson built mine and magnetized the torso joint and weapon arms. He had to cover the torso portion in green stuff to try and reduce the force of the magnet so that the thing would come apart. The whole project took him about 60 hours because of all the pinning. OK, cool, I know someone had recently built one and was posting itt, must have been Hixson! Thanks for that
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Oct 29, 2014 19:27
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I Personally think that if they want to being knights down a peg, they give monstrous creatures armorbane in close combat again. A squad of guard vets with melta bombs is 90 points and more likely to kill any vehicle in close combat than any MC.
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Oct 29, 2014 19:31
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Safety Factor posted:I just want to say that I love that this little guy has become a thing. He is my favorite miniature. Also, Tau is a great codex. Almost everything is playable, multiple list styles are valid. Don't nerf them, bring everyone else up to that level! Esser-Z fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 19:31
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panascope posted:Hixson built mine and magnetized the torso joint and weapon arms. He had to cover the torso portion in green stuff to try and reduce the force of the magnet so that the thing would come apart. The whole project took him about 60 hours because of all the pinning. What did he use for the weapon arms? I'm at that state on my hound.
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Oct 29, 2014 19:41
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Hollismason posted:I honestly can't wait to the finished product on this, probably one of the more interesting Work in Progress threads. This is incredible.
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Oct 29, 2014 19:50
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Hencoe posted:What did he use for the weapon arms? I'm at that state on my hound. He used disks, I can't remember the size, but I'll ask him to check the thread.
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Oct 29, 2014 20:29
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Takkaryx posted:A rotary tool or Dremel makes magnetizing things super easy. I use 1/8" by 1/16" N52s for my marines and termies, and using a 1/8" bit to bore holes has saved me so goddamn much time over using a pin vise. Also, a rotory tool is just a good thing to have for hobby stuff and around the house work too. I've got an army painter hand drill on the way, and just ordered magnets from the same specs you recommended after breaking out my ruler and measuring some marines. Thanks for all the advice guys, if these Grey Knights turn out as well as I hope I'll post some results over in the painting thread!
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Oct 29, 2014 20:45
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I use a pin vise, good power drill and Dremel for magnetizing - just helps to have the right tool for the material you're working with. I have metal Hive Tyrants and Carnifexes, for Pete's sake...
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Oct 29, 2014 20:57
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Cooked Auto posted:Thanks. For my dudes' guns I just did boltgun metal washed black, then doombull brown washed agrax earthshade for the stock/furniture. Kind of gives off an old world wooden stock appearance. Excellent work on your commander, btw.
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Oct 29, 2014 21:06
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krushgroove posted:See above on why I'm asking for time estimates - that blog link is really handy and I think my buddy won't want to do that much to it. Although if I get one I'd definitely want it swappable/moveable! So when you say 'two weeks' is that working 2-5 hours a night for a couple of weeks, like a typical day job worker? So probably 30 hours, average of 3 or so hours a night for 10 days (assuming you want to take a break from it)? I've got a strange work schedule where I only work 7 days of every 14 and I can't do any work on the model on the days I work. So I'm spending 4 or 5 hours on my days off working on this thing. I'm also converting all the hydraulics to styrene or brass rod as they were cut-down for the original pose and that pose isn't going to be replicated. Still, 30 hours is probably a low estimate because of all the aforementioned pinning. This isn't necessarily a complicated model, it's just very, very big. It's going to stand at least 10-13" inches tall when you're done so as to transportation, you'll have to let me know how you crack that.
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Oct 29, 2014 21:25
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Master Twig posted:The sternguard was an imperial fists list. Oddly enough, he was also running a knight that warp lances and devourers from hive tyrants brought down turn 2. So we have: 1-Those who can drop-pod multiple sternguard meltas without scatter on turn 1. 2-Those who have T5 cavalry armed with thunder hammers/rending. 3-Those who are designed to bring overwhelming, cheap firepower. 4-Those who can spam lots of haywire. That's still not a very broad list. It features marines (except DA, of course), Space wolves, IG, Tau and some Tyranid/De builds. The Dark eldar event feels like a fluke. A dark lance Ravager will peel off 1.5 hull points a turn against a knight, assuming it stayed still to fire all lances. It would take the Knight failing every save after receiving a stellar turn of shooting from the ravager and the scourges. I've once lost a daemon prince against a unit of 12 eldar guardans in CC (and that's when they were still WS3. Poor rolls meant only one or two guardians dead a turn, a nearby Avatar was keeping them fearless, and my bad luck at saves meant that the wounds on the prince piled up and got him. That doesn't mran Guardians are a good math against MCs in close combat. I'll never understand the nerf to MC Smash in this edition.
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Oct 29, 2014 21:30
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BlackIronHeart posted:I've got a strange work schedule where I only work 7 days of every 14 and I can't do any work on the model on the days I work. So I'm spending 4 or 5 hours on my days off working on this thing. I'm also converting all the hydraulics to styrene or brass rod as they were cut-down for the original pose and that pose isn't going to be replicated. Still, 30 hours is probably a low estimate because of all the aforementioned pinning. This isn't necessarily a complicated model, it's just very, very big. Good info, thanks. Seems there's many more Mechanicum workers in this thread that I originally thought! I won't be starting on this model until at least February, my friend will be getting it as a present for himself and as payment I'll probably just tell him to get me a Chaos Warhound if not at the same time, when it's ready to pick up, so by the end I'll have plenty of experience I think. But for transport if it's not a shitload of magnets at the waist, or something like that, I don't know what I'll use yet. The blog post that was posted earlier to the titan builder looks very very good so I'll be reading through that, as I'll want to have a little bit of poseability where I can, and magnetized weaponry too, at least on mine (if I do end up getting one).
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Oct 29, 2014 21:37
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Reynold posted:For my dudes' guns I just did boltgun metal washed black, then doombull brown washed agrax earthshade for the stock/furniture. Kind of gives off an old world wooden stock appearance. Excellent work on your commander, btw. Ooh, now that sounds like an excellent suggestion. What would you suggest for wash for the rest of the commander by the way? I take it Nuln Oil is the normal black wash as well?
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Oct 29, 2014 21:41
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Sephyr posted:The Dark eldar event feels like a fluke. A dark lance Ravager will peel off 1.5 hull points a turn against a knight, assuming it stayed still to fire all lances. It would take the Knight failing every save after receiving a stellar turn of shooting from the ravager and the scourges. I've once lost a daemon prince against a unit of 12 eldar guardans in CC (and that's when they were still WS3. Poor rolls meant only one or two guardians dead a turn, a nearby Avatar was keeping them fearless, and my bad luck at saves meant that the wounds on the prince piled up and got him. That doesn't mran Guardians are a good math against MCs in close combat. You are really underestimating DE here. They can spam tons of darklight, heat lances, and haywire blasters that are mobile enough to hit from multiple angles to reduce the effectiveness of the shield. And don't forget the ravager is fast, so it can move 6" and still shoot all 3 lances.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:15
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Sephyr posted:So we have: The knight is just a 13/12/12 vehicle. Yes, it has twice as many hull points as most vehicles, but it can be shot down. Hell, Tyranids have a much harder time dealing with land raiders than knights. But yeah. Nerfing smash was completely unnecessary. MCs should be great against vehicles like they used to be.
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Oct 29, 2014 22:30
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The Avatar of Khaine is deadlier to vehicles at 1" away rather than base to base, receiving more shots at a higher strength, rolling more dice for pen, at a better AP, that are more likely to hit.
Clawtopsy fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 22:40
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