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cyberia posted:I've posted a few times recently in preparation for getting my new dog and so far I feel like I've got everything pretty much locked down except one thing: the damned crate. I've never crated a dog before and everything I read online about it is super ambivalent about the 'right' way to do things. I'd get the smaller crate (I guess that'd be the PP30? You could probably go smaller.) As for your second question, the reason you can't get a solid answer is that it boils down to personal preference (of both you and your dog). My chi sleeps in a plastic crate each night. The upside is that it travels easily. The downside is that I find it holds onto odors more since it's more enclosed, plus it's pretty ugly. The metal crates can be covered with a blanket, but the larger holes may make pulling items into the crate an option -- some dogs love doing this, others never do. I'd probably recommend getting a metal crate to start and seeing how it works for you -- I like the dividers and multiple doors. Mr Newsman posted:Me and my SO just picked up a Merle Border Collie Puppy from a local breeder. Figured I'd pop in and toss a couple of puppy pics in here from our weekend. He's just so CUTE AHHHH. Godspeed, new BC owner. You'll learn loads about the breed. There's a herding dog thread around here somewhere.
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Oct 21, 2014 14:30
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I have a resource guarding question: My corgi Tumbles is now just over 4 months old. In general she loves other dogs so far and is super friendly and playful around just about everyone (person or dog). However, over the last couple of days, I've caught her resource guarding a bit against dogs. She's good with me - I've worked on "drop it" and swapping things she loves for treats and then giving her toys/food back, etc, since she was little and haven't had any issues there at all. She comes to work with me and has some other dog friends here that she loves to play with. But lately, if they come near her crate while she's eating or chewing a bully, sometimes she'll start barking more aggressively than normal. This has only happened like 2-3 times, but if she is starting to guard against other dogs, I want to nip it in the bud. It's easy for me to practice taking things from her, because I can control when/how I approach, but with other dogs roaming around the office, I'm not sure how to set up situations and work her up to being ok with this. Any advice? Note: she's also started losing baby teeth as of a week or two ago and has seemed extra on edge and way more barky during that time, so maybe some of this is teething crankiness? I've been trying to figure out which of her acting out is just being uncomfortable and which is new adult bad behavior, but it's hard to tell. obligatory puppy pic as thank you:  e: she's currently super into chewing a frozen washcloth, so maybe the latest incident was pain-related. still would rather be safe and work on this if possible though! biggest platypus fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 22:42
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heartbreakingly cute puppy, world's biggest platypus
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Oct 22, 2014 05:04
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Mr Newsman posted:Hello Puppy thread! There are two types of puppy pictures: Blurry action pics and crystal-clear napping pics.
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Oct 22, 2014 18:20
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I'm not suggesting that this ISN'T resource guarding. I don't think that there's anything wrong with a dog not wanting to share a high value treat or toy and creating a boundary / telling other dogs "leave me alone". It happens with my two and I only take things away when it switches from noise to actual physical anything over an object.
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Oct 22, 2014 18:45
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For what it's worth, I agree with luscious. I typically separate my dogs into different rooms when they have a special treat like a bully stick. If they are in the same room and one approaches another that is still chewing, I call the approaching one away. Protecting high-value treats like that is pretty normal behavior, especially if the other dog is interested in her chew as opposed to just passing by. I mean, we know the other dog can't get it since she's in her crate, but she probably hasn't thought that through. If you're worried it's the start of a more general trend of resource guarding, it's best to start with low-value stuff just like the drop it training you've done, and change your management up so other dogs aren't approaching her while she has something special.
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Oct 22, 2014 18:53
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So how does one legally make someone else's dog their dog? Is there a way to legally steal a dog? Seriously though, my girl has been watching a now-former coworker's dog since July and has grown quite attached a dopey dog named Kitty. The erstwhile owner has provided a single case of beer for her roommate and took the dog to a dog park once in August or early September. Everything else has been on my girl. My girl has bought food for the dog for the whole time she's been watching her. She's dealt with Kitty's first bout of heat (not fixed because owner wants to pup her, she's a "pure-bred pittbull," dontcha know?  ). And, probably because of the heat episode, dealt with Kitty being attacked by another dog while out on a walk. Basically, she's born the brunt of this while the owner has all but hosed off. We both knew ending up with the dog was a highly probably outcome, and it was my main argument for her not to watch the dog. But really, how could you say no to this face?  So I guess this isn't much about stealing a dog as it is taken ownership of a dog that was abandoned. My girl called the owner over the weekend and hasn't heard anything from them yet. Hopefully we can work this out and get the dog spayed before she goes into heat again. mcswizzle posted:Bells!
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Oct 22, 2014 19:43
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BirdOfPlay posted:So how does one legally make someone else's dog their dog? Is there a way to legally steal a dog? It probably depends on your local jurisdiction, not sure where you are/what applies. But local to me, all dogs are supposed to be licensed, if they're lost or turned in the city/county does not have to redeem them to you unless you prove theyre yours like with photos of them in your home or something, or obviously if they have tags with your name/number on them or are chipped/licensed. Even then they will charge you a fee to redeem them out of the shelter/lost n found. If a person finds them it's pretty much the same , if the original licensed owner doesn't claim them within 7-10 days anybody else can adopt them. If they had no identification, chip or license they'll be up for adoption sooner usually. If you found them you might be able to get a hold on them. I am not sure what legal recourse someone would have against you to get them back if they suddenly change their mind, your local governance might know. ETA: judging from this random page you have good standing if there ended up being a case over the dog's custody http://www.americanbar.org/newsletter/publications/gp_solo_magazine_home/gp_solo_magazine_index/animalcustodycases.html pizzadog fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Oct 23, 2014 |
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Oct 23, 2014 02:58
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So a couple questions on bringing a new puppy home. My wife and I have decided to get a corgi puppy. Everything has been arranged and we're going to pick him up in a week. Biggest issue is it's a 6 hour drive. First, what is the "right size" crate for a Corgi puppy? The Life Stages crate seems to be the popular option, being adjustable and whatnot. And the manufacturer recommends the 36" for a Corgi, which is for heavier dogs but most likely chosen to accommodate the Corgi's length. We haven't picked a name for the dog yet, but his unofficial middle name is going to be "Longbottom"... So the other question is, what is the best way to transport the puppy back? Should we set up the crate in the back of the car, or should we get a smaller carry case for him? And if a smaller carry case is a good option, what size and are there any recommendations for construction? The soft cases look nice, but I don't know if those are a smart choice as compared to the hard cases. It's going to be tough driving back without holding the little guy in our laps the whole time, but I know that's not the best way to do it.
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Oct 24, 2014 14:13
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As someone who didn't car train my dog's well until they were over a year old, please (PLEASE) do a good job. My dogs are fine now, Artemis curls up on the floor of the back seat and Jada chills on the seat itself, but it took AGES to get there. Long term- get a car appropriate crate that buckles down somehow? We ended up getting these buckles that attach to the dogs' harness and clip into the seat belt receiver. It works well, keeps them in the back seat and allows enough room to poke their head out the window. edit: this keeps them contained but as I'm aware it's not the safest in the event of an accident. I think cryingscarf has something different they use for their dogs. PIFB had an article a while back about dogs being liquefied during an accident that were in secured, wire crates in the back of a SUV. YMMV, just please drive carefully. Short term- you may want to have someone ride in the backseat to keep them happy. If you can get a shirt/towel with the mom's scent to help keep Longbottom calm, and help him settle - that would be great. At least with this trip, someone in the backseat will be able to play games/occupy/entertain him to hopefully make sure he naps most of the time, but also will be able to handle accidents more easily (you'll have to stop every couple of hours for potty breaks, just like at home while you're house training) and let the driver know when it's time to pull off the road. Letting him have run of the car can be dangerous for him, for you or both. If he gets underfoot it can affect your ability to drive. I don't personally trust any dog sticking their head out the window not to jump even though my dogs prove me wrong constantly. Getting him used to A) being in the car and B) behaving in the car is very important, since you'll be driving with him if nothing else to and from the vet, but very likely to parks/hikes/play dates/family trips.
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Oct 24, 2014 14:43
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A 32" or 36" crate will probably be best for your dog when its an adult. A metal crate with a divider will allow for some flexibility while your pup is still small (or barring that, I just tossed some milk crates into the back of my crate when my dog was tiny). I would probably wait until the dog is mature before getting a soft sided crate. For transport in the car you could probably use a cat carrier (which you might be able to find cheap second hand). I've always just traveled with the puppy on my lap, with a towel. A word of warning - my first family dog got car sick and barfed all over me while we drove him home for the first time. YMMV.
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Oct 24, 2014 15:00
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We bought home Luna in a cat carrier. After she panic-poo poo everywhere twice we decided to just have her on my lap with collar and leash on. Pretty unsafe but it was that or a 2.5 hour drive of high pitched Spitz screaming to endure. We have a harness which clips to a seatbelt attachment now & she travels a billion times better that way. She just snoozes or looks out the window. A lot of puppies get motion sick on their first car rides & will puke or drool excessively so have a towel in the bottom of the crate so she isnt slip-sliding + cleaning supplies in case you need to pull over for a tidy like we did.
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Oct 25, 2014 20:25
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Questions about choosing a puppy - sheltie if it matters. We went to visit the breeder yesterday to see the pups at 5.5 weeks and give her an idea of which ones we'd be interested in. We got to spend a good hour playing with the pups before watching feeding time and then they all went to sleep. All of the puppies were curious and confident when approaching us, and very playful. At the end of the visit we narrowed it down to the biggest boy and smallest girl of the litter. When they ate, the boy was definitely a huge guts and inhaled his food in five seconds flat and was begging for more afterwards, but the girl seemed pretty disinterested and had to be hand-fed to finish her food. I'm a bit wary of food issues after spending 5 months wading through feline gastric distress, is the disinterest in food a small red flag or am I overthinking it?
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Oct 26, 2014 04:29
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Tamarillo posted:Questions about choosing a puppy - sheltie if it matters. We went to visit the breeder yesterday to see the pups at 5.5 weeks and give her an idea of which ones we'd be interested in. We got to spend a good hour playing with the pups before watching feeding time and then they all went to sleep. All of the puppies were curious and confident when approaching us, and very playful. At the end of the visit we narrowed it down to the biggest boy and smallest girl of the litter. When they ate, the boy was definitely a huge guts and inhaled his food in five seconds flat and was begging for more afterwards, but the girl seemed pretty disinterested and had to be hand-fed to finish her food. I'm a bit wary of food issues after spending 5 months wading through feline gastric distress, is the disinterest in food a small red flag or am I overthinking it? It's way easier to train a food motivated dog. We've had a number of shelties in class (agility) that really struggled because they were so picky and weren't easy to motivate by food or play.
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Oct 26, 2014 04:52
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DaveSauce posted:So a couple questions on bringing a new puppy home. Congrats! I brought home my corgi puppy a couple of months ago, so I can tell you what worked well for me... I got a 30" wire crate, with the assumption that she may grow out of it, but I'll upgrade when the time comes - her mom is on the small side so I want to see how big she ends up getting. It fit nicely in the back of the car and has been great for puppy time. It looks like we'll definitely need to upgrade eventually, though.. For the ride home, we put the crate in the back seat and I sat back there while my boyfriend drove. I started with the pup on my lap (because eeeeeee new puppy!) but put her in the crate with the door open next to me when she got squirmy, and she rode in there, on some wadded up sheets (with our scent) for most of the way. I put a litter box in the back half of the crate, and she used that to pee/poop a couple of times on the 2-3 hour trip, as the breeder had litter box trained them and recommended going home in one straight shot (it was stinky until I cleaned it up, but it made the ride home pretty smooth). I'm not sure if this is the safest thing, as the crate wasn't really secured in any way, but it worked fine for this one time trip home. Good luck with your new pup! I hope to see pictures soon! e: oh, and thanks to those of you who responded to my resource guarding q! I'm mostly glad it doesn't sound like a huge behavioral red flag. I'll keep an eye on her and keep practicing what I've been doing but otherwise try not to stress too much unless I see it getting worse. biggest platypus fucked around with this message at 16:24 on Oct 26, 2014 |
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Oct 26, 2014 07:44
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We just brought home a 1 year old shelter rescue pup yesterday. Apparently she's got an allergy to flea bites. We've given her a flea bath, which she hated, and some hot spot spray, which she also hates, and now runs for the hills at the sight of the bottle. We're planning on taking her to a vet pretty soon but is there anything short-term we can do to give her some immediate relief? It's so sad watching her chew herself raw.
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Oct 26, 2014 19:23
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Tater gets hot spots often (and is nursing a pretty bad one now). I take him to my groomer to have the affected area shaved and have some spray from my vet (Vetericyn, basically bactine for dogs). I'll also give him benadryl to help staunch the itching, but it doesn't knock him out the way I'd like. Hot spots are the worst.
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Oct 26, 2014 22:10
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Ellie (the toller) is doing very well now at 5 months. She's finally lost all of her baby canines (praise Allah)! We took her to a provincial park on Sunday and she barfed all over the car twice on the way there. This is the first time she's ever been sick in the car (or really had any issue whatsoever with it), and she's probably spent close to 20 hours tooting around in the thing so far. This is including two 30 minute rides the week prior. On the return trip from the park she was perfect. No stress, drooling, etc. I'm sure the three hour hike up and down a muddy escarpment helped though. Anyway, is this something we should be concerned about reoccurring? I'm going to be extra careful about making she she does not have any food at least 2 hours before travelling moving forward, but is it possible for dogs to sort of.. Grow into car sickness? 
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Oct 29, 2014 15:38
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Pups will have this problem randomly as they grow. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Nyx was good for a 3 hour ride up to the cottage but on the way back she threw up on the way back. Once she hit 1 year any sort of car sickness stopped.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:54
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Sherlock voms anytime that my dad drives. My dad is a horrible driver and actually triggers my PTSD so I'm not surprised. One thing that PI has taught me is that dogs vomiting is no big deal and meh let them eat it - easier than cleaning it up.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:57
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Math You posted:Anyway, is this something we should be concerned about reoccurring? I'm going to be extra careful about making she she does not have any food at least 2 hours before travelling moving forward, but is it possible for dogs to sort of.. Grow into car sickness? My dog did the same thing at that age. We started driving carefully on turns and bumpy roads and stopped feeding him right before big trips and he was okay. If he needed to eat, we'd just spread out his breakfast over the trip instead of all at once.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:11
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It could also be that he just snapped something up at some point before the car ride that didn't agree with him. You may already be aware of some things that will cause the vomits a bit later. For Linus, it's little twigs/sticks. Loves snapping them in his mouth and swallowing the remainder, the moron.
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Oct 29, 2014 19:19
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Luna started at doggy daycare yesterday now that she's over 16 weeks/had over 10 days since her final vaccs. Only one day in and it's done wonders for her confidence with other dogs on our morning walk (no fearful growling/snapping, more curious/wanting to play instead). I can't say enough good things about it. We had been socialising her with other dogs in passing on walks and the odd group walk with friends dogs, but she really needed this whole-day (with a nap break) experience to chill out and come around to the idea that other dogs exist and can be fun to play with. The daycare handled the newbie intro really well also, cordoning off a whole quarter of the building for her and introducing other 'bulletproof' dogs one by one as she felt comfortable. When my husband dropped her off this morning, after only a small bit of hesitation she was straight into it play-bowing with the other dogs. I'm so proud  It's expensive as hell but I'd totally recommend a good daycare to anyone thinking of spending the money/who doesn't have easy access to a bunch of other dogs to socialise their puppy with. Whispering sweet nothings to a small greyhound/whippet: 
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Oct 29, 2014 21:09
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Yeah, we've noticed a significant improvement in Hana's dog-to-dog manners after we started daycare (1-2 times a week). We were at a stage, where we had to constantly be near and interrupt play before it went bad (we learned to recognize the signs) and yesterday at the dog park, despite a large group of large puppies, I didn't have to interrupt her play once. She'll still be a jerk and steal toys/play keep-away but even that is less obsessive than it was before. OTOH, her recall has become worse, but we were told to expect that at her age ( 6 months).
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Oct 29, 2014 21:30
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Bananalogue posted:Tater gets hot spots often (and is nursing a pretty bad one now). I take him to my groomer to have the affected area shaved and have some spray from my vet (Vetericyn, basically bactine for dogs). I'll also give him benadryl to help staunch the itching, but it doesn't knock him out the way I'd like. Doggie got a shot at the vet Monday, and by Tuesday wasn't biting or scratching any more than a normal dog would. Her tail is already starting to look better. I hope she gets some hair back over the rest of her. The rescue people had her in some kind of Supergirl outfit with a red glittery tutu that I guess hid just how thin parts of her coat were but wasn't doing her skin any favors. We did give her benadryl for a few days and a Zyrtec once. Haven't given her any meds since Tuesday as she doesn't seem to need it. Here's picture of Dog the day we brought her home.  The rescue named her Spot, we've been calling her Mystery Spot. She's supposedly some kind of spaniel but I've been hearing blue heeler a lot also, which honestly makes me kind of uncomfortable as they're not supposed to be good apartment dogs. I love her one flopped ear.
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Oct 30, 2014 02:25
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IANAV but you can also use claritin (make sure with no decongestant) depending on the weight of your dog. I find it makes my dog less of a mess. Also, if you can prevent the dog from licking application sites, some topical cortisol on UNBROKEN skin can help if its an allergic reaction.
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Oct 30, 2014 19:50
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Travis343 posted:Doggie got a shot at the vet Monday, and by Tuesday wasn't biting or scratching any more than a normal dog would. Her tail is already starting to look better. I hope she gets some hair back over the rest of her. The rescue people had her in some kind of Supergirl outfit with a red glittery tutu that I guess hid just how thin parts of her coat were but wasn't doing her skin any favors. People say heeler anytime they see a stocky dog with that kind of spotting, so I wouldn't worry too much. I could see heeler in her if I look but honestly it wouldn't be my first thought based on the picture you posted. Unless she looks really different from other angles, I think you're probably safe. But even if she is a heeler, it'll be fine. The problem with heelers in apartments is that they tend to be very high energy dogs who need a job. But speaking from experience, if you train them and exercise them enough, they do just fine in apartments. In fact, they tend to be fairly quiet so can actually be good apartment dogs, assuming you're up to the task of wearing them out. 
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Oct 30, 2014 23:32
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I had two heelers in an apartment. It was manageable with plenty of walks and stuff for them to do. I see more spaniel in that dog than heeler though, heelers tend to be more flea-bitten freckly than spotty.
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Oct 31, 2014 00:01
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We adopted a 1.5 year old corgi mix on Saturday. We have no idea what the other breed(s) could be. His name is Butters and he is ~26 pounds. I'm thinking maybe some shiba or something... I feel like he has some larger breed in him though. Any takers?  https://www.dropbox.com/s/m4gbg0mocmwhp6p/2014-10-25%2012.16.35.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/1fujce0q9msy8we/2014-10-30%2020.00.00.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/yjaignovkabwsiz/2014-10-25%2015.05.18.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/il3hwftigzv3p07/2014-10-30%2018.52.56.jpg?dl=0 Munkaboo fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 31, 2014 01:06
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Munkaboo posted:We adopted a 1.5 year old corgi mix on Saturday. We have no idea what the other breed(s) could be. His name is Butters and he is ~26 pounds. I'm thinking maybe some shiba or something... I feel like he has some larger breed in him though. He is so mutts, he could be mixed with so many things. I could see shibe, but there are a million other things that could create that look too. He's prob a mix of a mix. He is super cute though. 
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Oct 31, 2014 01:33
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Munkaboo posted:We adopted a 1.5 year old corgi mix on Saturday. We have no idea what the other breed(s) could be. His name is Butters and he is ~26 pounds. I'm thinking maybe some shiba or something... I feel like he has some larger breed in him though. Hahaha look at dat fukken underbite
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Oct 31, 2014 02:20
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I think this is the right thread so looking for an advice: This weekend my girlfriend and I are going to a breeder for Olde English Bulldogges, long story why but the jist is wanting something mid sized, healthy, active but friendly and playful, I am drawing up a list of questions and other things to check such as: Parent healthy certs Environment puppies are raised in General breed knowledge and attitude to the dogs Kennel Club registration Time with the parents to judge size, temperament etc... Breeder input on whether or not they think the breed will fit in with our lifestyle Is there anything else I should be checking? Apparently the breeder already has a waiting list for next spring of 4 people so what happens if the litter is only 4? I assume that I would be either first for the next litter or could get my deposit back and look around at other breeders?
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Oct 31, 2014 13:42
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Lol @ 'i want a healthy active dog so gonna get a bulldog' If health and fitness are important to.you it's prob not the right breed for you.
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Oct 31, 2014 13:48
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BigPaddy posted:I think this is the right thread so looking for an advice: If you are looking for healthy and active, an English bulldog or any brachiocephalic dog is a bad bet. Your questions seem good though.
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Oct 31, 2014 13:50
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Yep you would both be right if I was getting an English Bulldog and not a BigPaddy posted:Olde English Bulldogge http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olde_English_Bulldogge English Bulldogs are a mess of genetic disease that are one small step below French Bulldogs as at least sometimes English Bulldogs don't need c-sections... sometimes.
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Oct 31, 2014 13:55
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OEBs are still real unhealthy like any other brachiocephalic breed tbh How active do you need or want the dog to be? If you outline exercise plans to the breeder they will hopefully know their dogs enough and be honest enough about whether that'll be too much or w/e
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Oct 31, 2014 14:22
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It doesn't need to be running miles but at least able to run around when we go out and not just collapse into heat stroked heap but not Boxer 3 year old on sugar energy levels. The OEBs I have met have a decent snout on them rather than being brachiocephalic, not quite a natural length but not unable to regulate body temp and trouble breathing bad. They still have issues with hip dysplasia so that is why I would want health records from the parents. If it were 100% up to me I would go and rescue a dog from a shelter but my better half wants something specific and I managed to argue her away from many pure breeds with terrible health issues. I feel sorry for Pugs. English Bulldogs etc... because is it really fair on them to be bred for looks at the expense of their health? BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 31, 2014 14:31
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I think you'll be okay with an OEB. They're not without their share of health issues, but if you go in with your eyes open I think you could find a cool companion. They're still brachiocephalic, but not to the same extent as some breeds. Re: a deposit, you should talk with the breeder about this. If you put money down for X litter, you should get your money back if you don't get a puppy from X litter due to litter size. Some breeders may try to transfer your deposit over to Y litter. Make sure you and your breeder are crystal clear about the policy, whatever it may be. I'm not familiar with the testing that should happen in your breed, but generally you want to know if the dogs have had their hips analyzed by PennHip or OFA, you want to ensure their eyes have been looked at from a vet. I would want to know how long lived the dogs in the lines being used normally are, and what normally ends up killing them. I would want to know if any of the dogs have had to have surgery to correct palette issues, eye issues, etc. I would like to see the breeder being active in the breed community by showing, competing with and certifying their dogs in breed-appropriate venues. I would want a breeder who breeds to improve the breed, not to pump out puppies at every opportunity. This normally means a breeder who doesn't breed often. Kennel club registration means about gently caress-all, but some people like it. Basically it means that your dog is recognized as pure bred somewhere. It's not a mark of quality or anything. It's just something that breeders do. I'd want to know about the temperament of the dam and sire, and other dogs in their lines. Prone to stress? Dog aggression? Human aggression? Fearful?
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Oct 31, 2014 14:49
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a life less posted:I'd want to know about the temperament of the dam and sire, and other dogs in their lines. Prone to stress? Dog aggression? Human aggression? Fearful? Yeah I'd ask for an honest representation of both the positives and negatives of the temperament of their dogs. No dog is a total perfect angel and if they try to claim otherwise they may be lying or muddying the truth about other things e.g. prone to health issues.
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Oct 31, 2014 16:30
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Fraction posted:OEBs are still real unhealthy like any other brachiocephalic breed tbh Yeah I know they're "different" (haha) but I was on my phone, lazy, and my point still stands. Can they whelp without significant human intervention? I get your s/o wanting something specific, but maybe something different, especially if the breeder is giving you a song and dance.
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Oct 31, 2014 16:35
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