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Not gonna lie, you had me lost at the first line, until I saw it wasn't some shade of neon retro-80s crayon. Looks good.
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Nov 2, 2014 02:17
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Fuelslt1 posted:I plastidipped my WRX today. In your 'during' photo, it looks like everything is being sprayed. Did you mask anything off or do you just remove the plastidip poo poo after on the headlights/turn signals/etc?
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Nov 2, 2014 02:25
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VelociBacon posted:In your 'during' photo, it looks like everything is being sprayed. Did you mask anything off or do you just remove the plastidip poo poo after on the headlights/turn signals/etc? Stuff peels off pretty readily. You actually want to make sure to spray enough overcoats to bind all the overspray together so that you can get it off easier - light dusty plastidip overspray is way more of a pain to deal with than a thick overspray coat.
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Nov 2, 2014 02:30
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Jonny 290 posted:Stuff peels off pretty readily. You actually want to make sure to spray enough overcoats to bind all the overspray together so that you can get it off easier - light dusty plastidip overspray is way more of a pain to deal with than a thick overspray coat. This man speaks the truth.
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Nov 2, 2014 03:14
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bull3964 posted:I'd have the center diff looked at. When mine imploded, the first sign was a momentary drivetrain lockup. Right on, thats the first thing Im gonna check. Probably hit up the junkyard for a spare tranny soon if nothing is obviously bad.
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Nov 2, 2014 04:03
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Elder Postsman posted:So uh, if you guys heard a noise from your engine that sounded like rod knock, then started pulling out the engine, and found one of the four torque converter/flexplate bolts back out a couple of turns, and another just finger tight, would you just tighten those up and put everything back together, and curse yourself for wasting a bunch of time? Welp, put everything back together, tightened those bolts down, and it's still knocking - at idle there's a loud tapping about 6-10 times per second. When I pull the wire for cylinder 4, it goes away. 
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Nov 2, 2014 19:06
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Welp, yesterday I ended up trading in my 2006 WRX Limited:  For a 2015 WRX Limited! I didn't get to drive it around too much. Still getting used to it and doing the break in. Old one will be missed dearly, but newer is pretty drat nice so far. Bonus pic with my wife's legacy (also bonus dog). 
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Nov 3, 2014 05:52
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Dogs looking at you like "wtf dad, we going somewhere or what?!"
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Nov 3, 2014 06:21
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Elder Postsman posted:Welp, put everything back together, tightened those bolts down, and it's still knocking - at idle there's a loud tapping about 6-10 times per second. When I pull the wire for cylinder 4, it goes away. You're gonna need a whole new short block, RIP 
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Nov 3, 2014 16:04
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Gigi Galli posted:You're gonna need a whole new short block, RIP Yeah the engine itself is still under warranty, getting a new replacement this weekend. Just a pain in the rear end having to take it out AGAIN. I mean, I've done it enough that it only takes ~3 hours now, but still.
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Nov 3, 2014 17:45
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Elder Postsman posted:Yeah the engine itself is still under warranty, getting a new replacement this weekend. Just a pain in the rear end having to take it out AGAIN. If the engine was under warranty this entire time and was knocking what motivated you to pull the tranny off? e: Oh, gotcha. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 17:54
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VelociBacon posted:If the engine was under warranty this entire time and was knocking what motivated you to pull the tranny off? Huh? I got a rebuilt engine in July, it started making a knocking/tapping sound after ~1000 miles, talked to the place I got it from about a replacement a couple weeks ago, started pulling it, and noticed the flex plate bolts were loose. Put it all back together this weekend hoping that was actually the problem, and it wasn't.
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Nov 3, 2014 18:32
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Amandyke posted:DAM below 16 means that the ECU is seeing some real knock events and is pulling timing/increasing fuel to compensate. While not a serious issue, it does point to things not being as they should be. Do you have any longer data logs that show typical driving? You mentioned hesitation while under 3k, could you log what makes that happen and post a link to the log file? Heres one i took the other day, just driving around. The hesitation is kind of hard to replicate, i never quite know when its going to do it. Now the DAM is just 5 ?https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1z8-hemPbfPJ12YtQVYdDdaQ0jOBxsl8iQchz7500YSM/edit?usp=sharing
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Nov 4, 2014 03:32
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I'm thinking about getting a Subaru for myself after my wife and I having our '11 impreza for a while. This will be my car, I don't commute to work so it probably won't be getting many miles put on it. I figure a stock sti is pretty rare, but I'm wondering if this is a bad idea, or if his price is fair or not, as I know prices with special models tends to be different than blue book/nada. http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/4710484892.html
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Nov 4, 2014 14:17
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The ssqv comment in the ad has me a bit worried, but if you get it inspected and have full compression and leakdown tests done to verify the health of the motor you should be ok. Look for signs of recent "return to stock" mods like fresh tool marks or oem parts that look too clean compared to the rest of the block. There's always a risk that it was abused by some idiot teen, and Subaru's are particularly sensitive to damage by improper mods without tuning for them, but there are diamonds in the rough and this might be one of them. Anecdotal but a "friend" of mine spun a bearing in his 06 STI and put in heavy oil to mask the knock when he sold it shortly after, very shady and he duped some poor sap into paying over $20k for his trashed car. He's a car salesman now too 
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Nov 4, 2014 15:32
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Yeah, even just looking at the pictures I noticed the stock airbox duct is missing. Makes me wonder.
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Nov 4, 2014 15:54
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So how much am I in for to get a new front bumper cover on a '13 WRX? Also needs the horizontal plastic bits underneath, part of the wheel well, the little plastic track it snaps into, and the vent insert. A Pittbull ran out in front of me and I clipped him going about 60. 
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Nov 4, 2014 23:35
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Farking Bastage posted:So how much am I in for to get a new front bumper cover on a '13 WRX? Also needs the horizontal plastic bits underneath, part of the wheel well, the little plastic track it snaps into, and the vent insert. A Pittbull ran out in front of me and I clipped him going about 60. They don't come painted and mine was more dinged up to the point I thought could have had radiator damage...with that said I went through insurance and just had Service King fix it all for 2K+ and I paid $250. Depending on the shop and quality of workmanship maybe you could pay $1K? Edit: maybe you could check junkyards though
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Nov 5, 2014 00:50
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Find a good body shop to plastic weld that small fracture or whatever they're capable of. That damage doesn't look bad enough to warrant an entire replacement if you're going out of pocket, insurance might be another story. It should cost about three to four bills on the low side of things, depending on your area. Grab a vent cover off of subarugenuineparts or an eBay salvager. For your fender liner, if you lost just the front bumper support, sgp, but if you lost more than that, rockauto has them for dirt cheap. They aren't as thick as the oem material, but it's just plastic liner. Buy push fasteners off of Amazon or ebay by the bulk pack, as those are always jumping ship. Dealer prices will make you cry.
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Nov 5, 2014 03:03
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I just put down a deposit on a 2015 WRX, now for 8-12 weeks of waiting! Needless to say this is going to be a very slow next three months, though I'm sure my bugeye will make it exciting by breaking in some new and exciting manner. Also going to have to get new winter wheels and snows for the new car, does anyone make cheap steelies in 5x114? I was looking on tire rack and could only find cheap alloys of questionable quality.
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Nov 5, 2014 03:38
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Those vent pieces are pretty cheap and pop out all the time at autocross. I'd circle back and check the location where you hit the dog because it's probably 100% intact. I retrieved a side skirt once in rush hour traffic around a blind corner (I never said I was smart). Clips and Fasteners is the website I use to get clips but it's extremely irritating to try and match a Subaru part number to the cavalcade of poorly labelled clips they have on offer.
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Nov 5, 2014 03:40
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Is it a thing with blobeyes that the clips holding the bumpers on snap? This is the second car I've owned where its happened in the exact same place, and I definitely haven't hit anything. I'm also the only driver. After exams I'm going to have to get in there with some cable ties, I tried sticking my hand in there and feeling for a hole/clip and I don't feel anything.
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Nov 5, 2014 04:26
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Good idea/bad idea? There's a local 2008 sti with 54k miles and an extra set of wheels/snow tires for $24k, supposedly never modified or raced/abused. It's been listed for more than a month so I'm guessing there's some room for negotiation. My biggest concern is regarding the big ringland issue, but that seemed to be more of a problem with modified engines. I'd be using it as a daily driver and wouldn't do much more than give it a tune. This would be replacing my beloved '99 2.5rs with an ez30d, which is rusting into oblivion.
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Nov 5, 2014 05:24
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dyne posted:Good idea/bad idea? There's a local 2008 sti with 54k miles and an extra set of wheels/snow tires for $24k, supposedly never modified or raced/abused. It's been listed for more than a month so I'm guessing there's some room for negotiation. My biggest concern is regarding the big ringland issue, but that seemed to be more of a problem with modified engines. I'd be using it as a daily driver and wouldn't do much more than give it a tune. This would be replacing my beloved '99 2.5rs with an ez30d, which is rusting into oblivion. Get a compression test on it. Put it on a lift, and check out the turbo-to-downpipe connection and see if the screws show any wear. If they do, it's been modified.
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Nov 5, 2014 14:06
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dyne posted:Good idea/bad idea? There's a local 2008 sti with 54k miles and an extra set of wheels/snow tires for $24k, supposedly never modified or raced/abused. It's been listed for more than a month so I'm guessing there's some room for negotiation. My biggest concern is regarding the big ringland issue, but that seemed to be more of a problem with modified engines. I'd be using it as a daily driver and wouldn't do much more than give it a tune. This would be replacing my beloved '99 2.5rs with an ez30d, which is rusting into oblivion. How bad is the rust? I am curious....
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Nov 5, 2014 19:00
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Confirmed that the '11 WRX had a boost leak. The pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body was torn and separating. It feels so much drat better now.
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Nov 6, 2014 18:15
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bull3964 posted:Confirmed that the '11 WRX had a boost leak. The pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body was torn and separating.  boost leak from the IC<>TB buddy. My spec.B had this, was the weirdest thing. It sounded like a belt slipping any time you went under load, except that no belt was slipping. Had like 3-4 different buddies listen and everyone agreed, and then the two dealership techs agreed. Finally just said "Well, the only other obvious thing that would be under load like this is a boost leak, so I guess just go pressure test it and see if you can find one" - and sure enough the service center finally found it there.
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Nov 6, 2014 19:10
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What's annoying is it wasn't covered under powertrain warranty. I guess only engine internals are and even though the intake system of a car is kinda critical, all those bits are only covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. Mine was just louder than normal for the most part. Rushing sound coming from the driver's side. If it was really cold, there was an extra resonance added to it until it warmed up. It was something that just kept getting gradually worse until I had to realize that yes, there was an issue. I visited a friend this past weekend who has a '14 so I was able to listen to low mileage one under load and was instantly able to say "Yeeeaaah, mine doesn't sound right."
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Nov 6, 2014 19:18
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Strange, mine was covered under powertrain warranty.
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Nov 6, 2014 19:25
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si posted:Strange, mine was covered under powertrain warranty. Looks like you got lucky. Subaru explicitly spells out what's covered and none of the intake components are unless you could argue that the "engine" catchall covers it. quote:Engine
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Nov 6, 2014 19:31
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bull3964 posted:WRX YAY YOU FIXED YOUR WRX YAY YAY!!!!!!!1 I got my first scratch on my 2015 yesterday It's minor and I can probably touch it up myself but ugh. It's no longer new.
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Nov 7, 2014 07:04
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So my outback is gonna go in for the HG replacement in mid November. Sucks, but it's the soonest the shop can get me in there. Since it will be getting the engine pulled and basically every fluid replaced, is there any harm in using subaru's magic coolant additive as a temporary patch? I need to be able to make short trips around town and, while I obviously don't want to antagonize an already leaking headgasket, my other transportation options are limited. I just need to know if pouring the OEM goop in my coolant is going to make the proper repairs any more difficult in a few weeks
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Nov 7, 2014 09:23
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Replacing the radiator on my 02 WRX right now and i only have the front end up in the air...should I be able to rotate the front wheels even if the car is in gear?
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Nov 7, 2014 18:31
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BraveUlysses posted:Replacing the radiator on my 02 WRX right now and i only have the front end up in the air...should I be able to rotate the front wheels even if the car is in gear? Yup, wrx has an open front diff for all years so expect either the other side to spin the opposite direction, or if there's enough mechanical resistance on the other wheel, the center diff is a viscous coupling so at low rotational speeds you should be able to easily spin the front axle and the diff will allow the speed difference.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:41
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BraveUlysses posted:Replacing the radiator on my 02 WRX right now and i only have the front end up in the air...should I be able to rotate the front wheels even if the car is in gear? Yup! Front diff is open and the VC isn't going to be offering up much resistance at low speeds like that.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:43
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Can anyone just give me a ballpark range of what is reasonable to pay to have my EJ22 rebuilt? I would be providing all parts, just need labor. Motor is already out of car and will be delivered as shortblock. THanks!!
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Nov 7, 2014 18:48
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What do you guys think of Subie CVTs? Outside of it not being manual.
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Nov 7, 2014 19:32
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I'm mostly interested in long-term reliability, them being a fairly new addition to Subarus (ignoring the Justys). I'm talking specifically in context of the 2010s Legacy models, although I would like to know a bit about how the new 2015 WRXs perform with them.
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Nov 7, 2014 19:37
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My brother in law just bought a Forester specifically because of the Eyesight system, which annoys me because I know its just to support and enable his bad driving habits.
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Nov 7, 2014 19:40
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FogHelmut posted:My brother in law just bought a Forester specifically because of the Eyesight system, which annoys me because I know its just to support and enable his bad driving habits. Yeah, I never saw the appeal in those. Seems to encourage relying on a computer for being a lovely driver
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Nov 7, 2014 19:43
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