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FWIW those Jackson Galaxy flower woos are helping Kosh immensely! They're 25% off today with the coupon BOO, btw!
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Oct 31, 2014 16:51
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luscious posted:FWIW those Jackson Galaxy flower woos are helping Kosh immensely! They're 25% off today with the coupon BOO, btw! You've heard of the placebo effect I assume?
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Oct 31, 2014 17:18
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wtftastic posted:You've heard of the placebo effect I assume? See I don't get this. Regardless of whether or not this is entirely a placebo effect.... isn't that okay? If I am seeing measurable changes in her ability to withstand certain experiences and situations, as are her trainer and others who don't know that she's on these ~magical tonics~ then isn't that still good enough? If I can pay ~25$ to actually help my dog (even if it is only in everyone's head bc it has the be a placebo effect) then hey I'm okay with that.
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Oct 31, 2014 17:37
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I took him out for a walk this evening after my mother went to work, and it has made a huge difference in his behavior. He is completely passed out now. The only thing he has really tried to do is take a bite of my cats' food, and that should be less of a problem after I get that slow feeder bowl for them. Not the main reason I'm planning to get that bowl, but it's a nice bonus. I've also put a 3-pack of clickers, a rope toy, and Don't Shoot the Dog in my Amazon cart. Can't actually buy them until my new debit card comes in, though.
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Nov 5, 2014 03:37
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Awesome! A tired dog is a good dog. And I'm super impressed with how you're getting involved with dogs and training. It's really awesome to see.
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Nov 5, 2014 05:02
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Awesome job Impatiens 
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Nov 6, 2014 00:38
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Guys, I really need some help with my dog. She's a three year old Dachshund that is developing severe separation anxiety. She's always been a bit whiny when we leave the house, crying a little at the door and excitedly crying when we come home, but we've always downplayed leaving/returning or even giving a treat when we walk out the door so she doesn't see it as a bad thing that we leave. Lately (the past two months), it's been getting worse and worse, to the point of worrying me for her health. She has started panting/drooling extreme amounts of slobber all over the living room (I thought it was pee at first because of the shear amount) and yelping like she's being beaten while shaking and running around frantically. I got a crate to crate train her, and she does really well in it as long as I'm home, but as soon as we walk out the door the intense crying and drooling starts. I've given her a kong with a treat in it, small treats hidden in the crate, etc, and nothing will console her (and being a dachshund, food is the ultimate motivator normally). I didn't bother crating her before now because she was abused/locked in a crate as a puppy by the original owners who we rescued her from. She's extremely well behaved when we're gone or home. No chewing or accidents, just a good dog all around, it's just the leaving/returning time period that is bad. It should be noted that we have another dog that our Dachshund loves and they get along great, so she's not even completely alone. The other dog has no issues with being left, just the Dachshund. I can record the behavior with a GoPro if it would help anyone make a suggestion for us, but it seems like pretty standard separation anxiety. Also, she's very playful and active. They run with me about 3 times a week, 2-3 miles at a time, so she should be quite stimulated and relaxed. Here's the little rascal 
Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Nov 11, 2014 |
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Nov 11, 2014 05:26
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Bottom Liner posted:Guys, I really need some help with my dog. She's a three year old Dachshund that is developing severe separation anxiety. It sounds to me, especially since this is a fairly recent change, that maybe visiting a vet to take a look and make sure that there's nothing medically wrong that might be causing her to associate you leaving with pain or stress? Maybe she could benefit from some doggy prozac? It might just be easiest to start at the vets, and then talk to a behaviorist from there. luscious posted:See I don't get this. Regardless of whether or not this is entirely a placebo effect.... isn't that okay? If I am seeing measurable changes in her ability to withstand certain experiences and situations, as are her trainer and others who don't know that she's on these ~magical tonics~ then isn't that still good enough? Sure, I guess if you hate money, then its fine. I just wouldn't tell a bunch of other people to buy 25 bucks worth of flower water and spray it around their homes in the off chance it may possibly do something. It would be cheaper to tell them to practice animal communication or to spray their favorite febreeze around.
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Nov 12, 2014 20:47
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We just adopted a deaf pit bull puppy; he's about 9 months old. As far as training goes, we're considering getting a vibrating collar to be able to get his attention. Anybody have experience with these or a reason not to use one? He's pretty much the best. 
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Nov 24, 2014 06:16
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I use a vibrating collar on my deaf dog when we're hiking so I can let him off leash but call him back if he starts wandering out of my sight. It works really well for him. I've heard some dogs are sensitive enough that even the buzz is upsetting to them, but aside from an issue like that I think it's fine. FWIW, though, I find I don't really need it outside of that very specific circumstance. My dog is pretty aware and if he is not paying attention indoors, just stomping my foot is enough to get him to look at me. I'm sure that depends on the dog, though...my guy has always been pretty focused on me even before he lost his hearing.
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Nov 25, 2014 23:11
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The deaf one is the best one, right? Or is that the blind one?
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Nov 26, 2014 05:00
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Nope, the blind one is a troublemaker. The deaf one is the best one, the only good dog I own. 
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Nov 27, 2014 15:54
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Recall, friends. Recall. I have a 1 year old beagle mix pup that's I've been working with since she was 6 weeks old. She's incredibly cute but also a gently caress head. I am having a hell of a time with recall with her. She is fast, she never tires, and she is really stubborn. I have used freeze-dried liver and Natural Balance dried sausage to train with, but even that won't get her back to me. Whenever we got to obedience classes she does all her commands, including recall, perfectly. But if we are out and about she won't come back. We've had some close calls already. A friend had stopped by to let the dogs out and she ran out the door while he was taking out the second dog and she ran down the road. Twice she has yanked the leash out of my hand (I had winter gloves on) and took off. Even when I get her in the fenced in park, she won't come to me when it is time to go. I'm starting to think you can't teach a hound recall  
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Dec 2, 2014 00:06
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I recently got a puppy and she is now about 16 weeks but she just can't get a handle on walking out in public. I can walk her in the backyard just fine and around the house, but when I try to walk her around the neighborhood she just keeps looking back towards the house and freaks out at any noise. How do I get her excited to walk around the neighborhood? Heres the shut in puppy 
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Dec 2, 2014 02:22
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Going through and rereading old posts (they weren't relevant to me then, but they are now) I think I need to reteach and reinforce PG's name. I think the "come" command has been made in affective at this point, so I am going to go back to square one with a new word for the command. We desperately need to teach a "safety sit/down" since when she is running full speed freely she darts back and forth across the street. I also want to work with a collar grab as well. Being chased is her favorite game, she loves to initiate it with other dogs at the dog park. She is highly food motivated but it seems she gets so caught up in her freedom, or smelling, that she could care less about food. She has been going bat poo poo for any toy that looks like a real raccoon or squirrel tail, so I may alternate really yummy treats with some tug play (this helps out with agility since my instructor wanted to get her off food rewards and onto toys). She is a very, very frustrating hound (a horrible blend of beagle and doxie, maybe some min pin). She is incredibly smart. I know she is capable, I just need to practice and figure out how to be the most exciting thing in her life. anaaki fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 03:00
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hatty posted:I recently got a puppy and she is now about 16 weeks but she just can't get a handle on walking out in public. I can walk her in the backyard just fine and around the house, but when I try to walk her around the neighborhood she just keeps looking back towards the house and freaks out at any noise. How do I get her excited to walk around the neighborhood? What does she do when she freaks out? Like, is she afraid or excited? I mean, my first suggestion would be to spend time in the front yard and sidewalk outside your house (or whatever the boundary of her comfort zone is). If she's afraid, work on counter-conditioning; if she's excited, work on obedience. Since she's looking back at the house I'd guess she is afraid and basically for that you want to work on gradually expanding her comfort zone. Pay attention to when she starts to get nervous, then get to the edge of that and start counter-conditioning (basically, all treats and positive reinforcement, with maybe some easy commands that she's extremely comfortable and confident with to keep her focused and boost her confidence). From there gradually push her boundaries. That's how I'd handle it, anyway, if she's like I think she is. I've never dealt with it in a very young puppy (I haven't had too many of them) but I've had a few nervous foster dogs it worked with, and I think it's a pretty common in puppies and has a similar solution AFAIK.
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Dec 3, 2014 05:02
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Soup in a Bag posted:We just adopted a deaf pit bull puppy; he's about 9 months old. As far as training goes, we're considering getting a vibrating collar to be able to get his attention. Anybody have experience with these or a reason not to use one? I considered using one of these for my deaf dog but decided against it. I usually get her attention using touch or waving my hands or stomping foot or something. She's never off leash in an unfenced area though of course. But honestly most dogs shouldn't be.
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Dec 4, 2014 12:33
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So, about six weeks ago, I adopted a mutt, about one and a half years old, black, a tad smaller than a GSD. I mention size because in the last six weeks, she very occasionally barks and lunges at people and it's pretty scary for them. She's never bitten or tried to bite, but a short bark and a quick movement toward them and, I'm told (never been on the other side) a bit of a snarl going. It's becoming more of a problem - my sister and father were over tonight, and she did it to my sister when she was just standing there holding a pack of cigarettes and to my dad when he leaned forward in his chair. In the last six weeks, she's done it to my nephew three times - which I understood because he's a terror - but last week she did it to my sister when we were visiting and my sister shouted "out" and tried to wave her out of the kitchen (we don't shout at the dog at all), and now today for nothing. She did it once to my dad when she first met him, and now once this evening after being fine with him since then. She's also done it to a few strangers at the park (four/five) and basically I can't figure out what triggers her - it's been men and women, white and black, just... no idea. So, I'm in the process of tracking down a behaviourist that doesn't suck, but is there anything I can do meanwhile to decrease the likelihood of her doing this to my family, who are starting to get a bit afraid of her? My sister has even said that she'll do whatever she needs to as well, which is a pretty big deal for her.
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Dec 6, 2014 20:25
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anaaki posted:Going through and rereading old posts (they weren't relevant to me then, but they are now) I think I need to reteach and reinforce PG's name. I think the "come" command has been made in affective at this point, so I am going to go back to square one with a new word for the command. We desperately need to teach a "safety sit/down" since when she is running full speed freely she darts back and forth across the street. I also want to work with a collar grab as well. Being chased is her favorite game, she loves to initiate it with other dogs at the dog park. She is highly food motivated but it seems she gets so caught up in her freedom, or smelling, that she could care less about food. Yeah I pretty much need to figure this out too.
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Dec 8, 2014 04:00
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Is there such a thing as the terrible twos in dog years? My year and half Aussie/GSD/Boxer/pit mix has been a terror lately. She has gone through 3 levels of training classes and passed CGC level. She knows a ton of basic commands and does really well inside the house, not so much outside but we are working with her training in a new environment. Lately she's been a terror trying to walk on the leash. She'll decide she wants to play tug with the leash and I can't seem to break her from doing it. I drop the leash and step on it to make the 'game' no longer fun but when I try to pick the leash back up she goes for it again. I'm wondering if she is just bored and needs a good run. Unfortunately we don't have a fenced in yard and we usually play ball with her in the house. She has a bit of a toy aggression so we haven't been back to the local dog park because of that. I try to make her thinking and feel exercised as much as I can but nothing seems to replace a good run for her.
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Dec 15, 2014 17:25
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I support your terrible twos theory for the simple fact that my four month old is such a crazy pup. He seems like he tries to see how far he can take things. 
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Dec 15, 2014 18:57
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lazerwolf posted:Is there such a thing as the terrible twos in dog years? My year and half Aussie/GSD/Boxer/pit mix has been a terror lately. She has gone through 3 levels of training classes and passed CGC level. She knows a ton of basic commands and does really well inside the house, not so much outside but we are working with her training in a new environment. Lately she's been a terror trying to walk on the leash. She'll decide she wants to play tug with the leash and I can't seem to break her from doing it. I drop the leash and step on it to make the 'game' no longer fun but when I try to pick the leash back up she goes for it again. I'm wondering if she is just bored and needs a good run. Unfortunately we don't have a fenced in yard and we usually play ball with her in the house. She has a bit of a toy aggression so we haven't been back to the local dog park because of that. I try to make her thinking and feel exercised as much as I can but nothing seems to replace a good run for her. Yep, adolescence and young adulthood brings on a whole host of bratty behaviors. Bring a tug toy with you on your walk. If you see the precursors to the leash-biting (wide eyes, erratic movement), play a game of tug with the toy you brought. If you miss the signals, step on the end of the leash then start playing with the tug toy by yourself, making it seem like a much more interesting game than the leash. If you're sure that she has very strong bite inhibition towards you, you can also switch to a metal chain leash that's not so fun to bite. However, some dogs will escalate to tugging on clothes/arms/legs if you take away the option of the leash, so you may not want to take that risk.
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Dec 15, 2014 20:28
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This morning my chihuahua sat on the armchair and stared at me for 30 full seconds while I said "come" in the same inflection, over and over, before she decided to jump down and follow me. She would have come immediately if I had her lickity stix bottle in my hand. I know this because when I'm hiding the bottle she does the same "hur dur i can't hear you" thing and then when I pull out the treat bottle she flies toward me like a rocket. I think she also 'knows' she's not allowed in the kitchen because she'll try to slip in there very quietly and look over at me to see if I'm paying attention to her and then continue into the kitchen if the gate isn't closed all the way. I love her but she's an rear end in a top hat and I'm bad at training. I have ADHD so I lose track of her treat bottle and training schedules and forget what Im supposed to do and all that. Her vet suggested Dr. Yin's training methods, and they seem good, I just don't know how to apply them to my situation. Anybody have some advice? 
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Dec 17, 2014 19:22
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Doesn't repeatedly saying something and your dog not doing anything kind of dilute the word and give it less meaning to them? Fwiw I trained my dog to come by walking around with treats in my hand and randomly calling him throughout the day. Took a few days but now he's pretty drat obedient about it. He's only four months though so every now and then I'll be calling h-- SQUIRREL
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Dec 17, 2014 19:25
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Cole posted:Doesn't repeatedly saying something and your dog not doing anything kind of dilute the word and give it less meaning to them? That's entirely true. You've also basically taught her "unless I see the treats I ain't doing poo poo". Maybe keep kibble or other small hard treats in your pockets and begin to reward her occasionally and "at random" when she does what you want. Some dogs are fine about doing poo poo without a reward visible, others are not. By making treating for a behavior she has solidly learned on a variable schedule, you can make it more likely she'll do it again in the future because she's learned that sometimes she gets a reward and who knows, maybe its now? Also you're going to end up poisoning your recall cue if you keep repeating it over and over again like that. As far as keeping the dog out of trouble when she's checking to see if she's going to get caught: put the gate up. Spend time teaching her that good things only happen outside of the gate. Management is going to be the best you can get for this kind of behavior. When she's going in there and finding tasty poo poo on the floor sometimes, you are building a behavior that is difficult to break because she's getting people food! on a variable schedule.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:24
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wtftastic posted:That's entirely true. You've also basically taught her "unless I see the treats I ain't doing poo poo". Maybe keep kibble or other small hard treats in your pockets and begin to reward her occasionally and "at random" when she does what you want. Some dogs are fine about doing poo poo without a reward visible, others are not. By making treating for a behavior she has solidly learned on a variable schedule, you can make it more likely she'll do it again in the future because she's learned that sometimes she gets a reward and who knows, maybe its now? Yeah I was reading up on it. I think i found the fine line though. After he got it down with treats I phased them out over the course of a day or so and started just showering him with praise. Also never given Monty people food EXCEPT on Thanksgiving when I gave him a slice of turkey. He doesn't really bother anyone when they have food and it makes me so happy.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:34
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Yo, imma blob posted:This morning my chihuahua sat on the armchair and stared at me for 30 full seconds while I said "come" in the same inflection, over and over, before she decided to jump down and follow me. She would have come immediately if I had her lickity stix bottle in my hand. I know this because when I'm hiding the bottle she does the same "hur dur i can't hear you" thing and then when I pull out the treat bottle she flies toward me like a rocket. I found that teaching a nose touch -> my hand behaviour really, really, really, really useful when working with my chihuahua. It's like a recall, only it's new to the dog and it is crystal clear to the dog what you want, once you've taught it. The OP of this thread has some links to helpful posts about recall in the 4th section. There's some nose target training mentioned in there too. Or you can search Youtube for a method.
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Dec 17, 2014 20:52
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Well, drat. I feel like a dingus knowing medical stuff about dogs but zilch about training. Perhaps... the dumb rear end in a top hat was me... all along...  a life less posted:I found that teaching a nose touch -> my hand behaviour really, really, really, really useful when working with my chihuahua. It's like a recall, only it's new to the dog and it is crystal clear to the dog what you want, once you've taught it. The OP of this thread has some links to helpful posts about recall in the 4th section. There's some nose target training mentioned in there too. Or you can search Youtube for a method. Oh, man, a nose touch sounds really great. I'll look at the OP again, thanks!
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Dec 18, 2014 05:40
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Hey guys, quick question re: barking at food. Our pup is 16 weeks old now and in the last two weeks has started barking non stop if we are eating food (or really at anything that comes from the kitchen, so a cup of tea will also trigger it too) and he isn't. If we feed him at the same time he eats, but he wolfs down his food even if it's in a kong and then he'll go back to screaming at us. I get it that he's hollering at us to give him food, and we don't give him food that we're eating so I'm not 100% where this came from. So far the approach has mostly been to try and ignore him, but he hasn't shown signs of easing up. Any suggestions? E: Yeah we've taken to putting him outside - we try not to crate him too much because we didn't want to poison it with the whole idea of "time out" when he only tolerates rather than likes being in there. He's currently having a tantrum right now because I am drinking a cup of tea (immediately after feeding him too) Tamarillo fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jan 5, 2015 |
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Jan 4, 2015 06:50
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Tamarillo posted:Hey guys, quick question re: barking at food. Our pup is 16 weeks old now and in the last two weeks has started barking non stop if we are eating food (or really at anything that comes from the kitchen, so a cup of tea will also trigger it too) and he isn't. If we feed him at the same time he eats, but he wolfs down his food even if it's in a kong and then he'll go back to screaming at us. Have you tried quietly taking him into a different room when he starts barking? He's demanding attention so bark = he goes away might help.
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Jan 4, 2015 09:12
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Fraction posted:Have you tried quietly taking him into a different room when he starts barking? He's demanding attention so bark = he goes away might help. Hana did the same at about that age and we would crate her when age started acting like that....usually only for a minute or so. It took a few weeks but she stopped barking/jumping around after that
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Jan 4, 2015 21:58
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e: nevermind, I'm taking it to a vet behaviorist
pizzadog fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jan 6, 2015 |
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Jan 5, 2015 00:06
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I feel like I should be able to train my dog to walk such that she knows she's going to fast if there is no slack on the leash. I'm certain she's smart enough to grasp the concept but I don't know an effective way of communicating it to her. Any ideas? She's a lab/golden mix of that matters.
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Jan 24, 2015 00:36
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Stumpus posted:I feel like I should be able to train my dog to walk such that she knows she's going to fast if there is no slack on the leash. I'm certain she's smart enough to grasp the concept but I don't know an effective way of communicating it to her. Play red light-green light. If she hits the end of the leash, you stop stock still. When she gives slack, start walking again. You have to be strict about this and persistent, but it works on most dogs.
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Jan 24, 2015 00:40
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Engineer Lenk posted:Play red light-green light. If she hits the end of the leash, you stop stock still. When she gives slack, start walking again. You have to be strict about this and persistent, but it works on most dogs. How long does it normally take? I did it for awhile but it didn't seem to take.
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Jan 24, 2015 05:38
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Stumpus posted:How long does it normally take? I did it for awhile but it didn't seem to take. I walk shelter dogs every week and if I get one who is a horrible puller and a relatively trainable breed (I don't really bother for scenthounds or huskies) I do something similar to this, since I don't have access to head or front harnesses, and treat training is discouraged (they don't want the dogs getting fat and stuff). I find it's a bit more effective to immediately do a 180˚, rather than just stop. Plus, that way the dog is actually getting walked, even if it's just back and forth the same 20 ft stretch. That being said, I think there are better ways to train loose leash walking so someone else can jump in on that. Invalid Octopus fucked around with this message at 06:49 on Jan 24, 2015 |
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Jan 24, 2015 06:44
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Neither of those methods work at all on my dog, but she's an anxious pit mix so ymmv. Other than positive punishment, which i'm not using any longer, I've had the MOST success by constantly feeding her treats (really good stuff like liver) only for being in the heel position, but all bets are off if there are other dogs around.
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Jan 25, 2015 03:50
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Get a harness that clips to the chest. Anytime your dog pulls it will actually yank him/her away from whatever they are after and they will get the hint eventually.
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Jan 25, 2015 19:52
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Cole posted:Get a harness that clips to the chest. Anytime your dog pulls it will actually yank him/her away from whatever they are after and they will get the hint eventually. Again this will not work for all dogs, esp strong dogs that really want to greet other dogs or chase prey.
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Jan 25, 2015 21:15
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I have an almost six month old white German Shepard. She's not spayed yet, but am planning on it soon. I've had her since she was around 8 weeks, which I realize now was too soon. She lives with me and my girlfriend, a 5 yr old beagle and a 3 year old cat. My puppy is a scaredy cat. She's scared of other people and animals to a really strange degree. Not so much barking at them, but doing everything she can to GET AWAY ASAP. I tried taking her to the dog park yesterday and it wasn't a good time. It was late so there weren't too many others, but she was pretty scared the whole time, and constantly jumping all over me (we're still working on the no jumping thing when I get home, but this was over the top). I took her to a more secluded section with the beagle and she was fine, but when other dogs tried to engage her she'd run away, tail tucked, and if cornered would start whining and snapping. Walking near others was impossible, leading to a constant war to have her not jump on me. I ended up standing still for the most part with her directly underneath me between my legs, snapping if a dog wouldn't leave her alone. She'd pull a sneaky sniff on others if they weren't looking (human and dog) then zip back underneath me. Not sure how to go about this, the beagle loveesss the dog park and I'd like to be able to bring them both more often. She was just so dang stressed I felt bad as well, and I'm not sure if I should keep doing it so she gets desensitized, or try a different approach to get her at least OK with other dogs, if not other people. Advice?
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Jan 25, 2015 21:38
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