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It's not the size of the bit, it's how you use it.
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Nov 6, 2014 07:41
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revmoo posted:That price is horrid. My 60 gal that pushes something like 11CFM was around 400 bucks. I suspect the "made in  " sticker instantly adds a hundred bucks or so to the cost.
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Nov 6, 2014 10:22
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Big work tools: This is a reaction bar for a nut runner. See 8.5x11 sheet of paper for scale. Quite thick as well. Untitled by TbevBig wrench as well.  Untitled by TbevSmall part I had printed the other day. The quality blew me away.  Untitled by Tbev
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Nov 6, 2014 17:01
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Sadi posted:Small part I had printed the other day. The quality blew me away. Does the machine grind/mill the part to spec after printing, or is it just that good?
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Nov 6, 2014 21:12
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The printer is just that good.
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Nov 6, 2014 21:30
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Would those 3d printers be able to create custom bushings or is the medium not right for it?
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Nov 6, 2014 21:36
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Astonishing Wang posted:Would those 3d printers be able to create custom bushings or is the medium not right for it? I have no idea what material properties you are looking for. I got that last part made by https://www.finelineprototyping.com They were pretty fast and quality. Not the cheapest around though.
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Nov 6, 2014 21:43
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Igus make a printer filament out of their bearing material, but FD printers aren't that tidy.
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Nov 6, 2014 21:46
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I made a 1 flute carbide drill today.  
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Nov 7, 2014 01:16
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That's awesome. I've never had good luck with carbide anything. Then again I only recently bought a machinist handbook and now understand feed/speeds.
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Nov 7, 2014 01:33
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I want a new floor jack, but the one linked in the OP is defunct. Is this a good choice?
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Nov 7, 2014 09:06
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How much lift do you need? That jack is on sale often, and great for the price, but if you need a bit more height, the 2 ton low-profile is pretty nice too. You'll have to bleed them maybe once a year or so, as they tend to go limp.
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Nov 7, 2014 11:26
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drat that looks like a replica of the one I got from Costco, although rated 1/4 ton lower and $10 cheaper. Since you're not getting under the car supported by this jack I'd say go for it, hopefully someone has direct experience with this jack but it's a good design. I like the zerk on the pivot point.
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Nov 7, 2014 11:31
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Has anyone tried the new Amazon Supply? I think it's interesting; it's in beta, so it still has some quirks, but it is a bit easier to browse for the tool you need.
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Nov 7, 2014 13:33
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StormDrain posted:drat that looks like a replica of the one I got from Costco, although rated 1/4 ton lower and $10 cheaper. They're Arcan jacks which are the same as Costco. I've got the four-ton and I love it. "Rapid Pump" is loving laughable though.
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Nov 7, 2014 14:18
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McSpatula posted:How much lift do you need? That jack is on sale often, and great for the price, but if you need a bit more height, the 2 ton low-profile is pretty nice too. You'll have to bleed them maybe once a year or so, as they tend to go limp. Not much, really. I only have compact cars and don't actually need to lift them often. I'd rather buy more lift than I actually need if the price difference is relatively small, but the only real issue is that the thing be fairly reliable when I do need it. Lift height is a concern though. I ought to check. How about this: Are all the HF race jacks decent (on sale) buys if the specs suit, or are they made by an assortment of companies of varying quality, and, if the latter, how does one tell?
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Nov 7, 2014 16:06
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revmoo posted:They're Arcan jacks which are the same as Costco. Well as I look closer it's not exact: http://www.mygaragestore.com/detail.aspx?ID=1597 Do you have any backup for the HF one being the same as Arcan?
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Nov 7, 2014 17:28
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That Arcan is no longer available at any Costco I've been to. It's been replaced with an aluminum/steel "hybrid". Doesn't have any rapid pump functionality. This one: http://www.powerstationusa.com/brands/Arcan/product.php?mod=HJ2500 I like it, but I did max it out getting the rear end-end of my WJ in the air.
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Nov 7, 2014 17:44
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StormDrain posted:Well as I look closer it's not exact: http://www.mygaragestore.com/detail.aspx?ID=1597 That looks pretty close imo, but no I don't have any proof. I remember reading it somewhere and after comparing pictures it looked pretty clear to me that the same factory was pumping them both out and I accepted it as gospel.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:00
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McSpatula posted:How much lift do you need? That jack is on sale often, and great for the price, but if you need a bit more height, the 2 ton low-profile is pretty nice too. You'll have to bleed them maybe once a year or so, as they tend to go limp. Got any info how to do that? I might have the manual still but they're usually useless for HF tools.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:06
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IOwnCalculus posted:That Arcan is no longer available at any Costco I've been to. It's been replaced with an aluminum/steel "hybrid". Doesn't have any rapid pump functionality. Oh yeah, it's definitely out of stock now, likely never to return. I remember dragging my feet for months on buying it until I decided I HAVE TO HAVE IT, and it was gone. They had one at another warehouse across town and there were only 6 left.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:07
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BraveUlysses posted:Got any info how to do that? I might have the manual still but they're usually useless for HF tools. Loosen the handle the way you would if letting a car down and then pump the handle a few times with something (someone's foot) on the pad.
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Nov 7, 2014 19:33
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Does anyone know where I could get a press like this: All the arbor presses I'm finding don't have a tall enough working height, and I've got no reason to drop  on a big honkin 12 or more ton press.
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Nov 7, 2014 22:18
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AncientTV posted:Does anyone know where I could get a press like this: What are you looking to press? I've had reasonable success renting an autozone ball joint press.
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Nov 7, 2014 22:54
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A new bearing onto my distributor's shaft, which is what is pictured actually. The shaft is 6 inches long, and the tallest arbor I can find is 5. Looking at the ball joint press, I can't figure out a way that would work unfortunately. edit: Wait I didn't realize they were so huge, none of the pictures I saw were to scale. I'll look into it, thanks for the suggestion! AncientTV fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 22:57
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Wasabi the J posted:Has anyone tried the new Amazon Supply? It's not new, and still nowhere as good as McMaster for hardware. I keep hoping that they'll improve it, but not yet...
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Nov 8, 2014 14:43
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sharkytm posted:It's not new, and still nowhere as good as McMaster for hardware. I keep hoping that they'll improve it, but not yet... Basically my experience though it was a while ago last I used them. McMaster just owns so hard. The fact that they have Solidworks CAD for about 75% of what I want means I'll always go there first.
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Nov 8, 2014 18:49
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CarForumPoster posted:Basically my experience though it was a while ago last I used them. McMaster just owns so hard. The fact that they have Solidworks CAD for about 75% of what I want means I'll always go there first. And their shipping is incredibly reasonable and fast. It's not Prime, but it's the next best thing.
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Nov 9, 2014 04:02
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CarForumPoster posted:Basically my experience though it was a while ago last I used them. McMaster just owns so hard. The fact that they have Solidworks CAD for about 75% of what I want means I'll always go there first. Except they don't ship to Canada 
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Nov 9, 2014 06:34
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CarForumPoster posted:Basically my experience though it was a while ago last I used them. McMaster just owns so hard. The fact that they have Solidworks CAD for about 75% of what I want means I'll always go there first. Their prices are kinda crummy compared to buying direct from the manufacturer, but they are great for getting five of something so you can build one unit, or build a prototype, tomorrow. When I worked in NYC and jersey city for a while we would sometimes end up with same-day shipping if we ordered after midnight or early enough in the morning because their warehouse was essentially next dooor.
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Nov 9, 2014 16:13
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My experience with Mcmaster is order before noon > delivered by three. It's the best loving thing and I'm spoiled because of it.
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Nov 9, 2014 16:33
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Hey guys, Looking to rewire my car. I am building a Megasquirt harness and reusing my old Bosch plugs and deciding between a crimp&solder type connector, a solder & heat shrink, and uninsulated splice & heat shrink. Looking at these ratcheting crimpers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STTTI Any opinions if I'm looking for something that will outlast the car?
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Nov 9, 2014 20:23
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Sorry if this is getting to be a broken record, I did an engineering internship at a milspec crimp tool manufacturer. This is a longer reply than you asked for but its the short version everything you need to know tooling wise to make a wiring harness that will outlast your car. I say crimp all the way. Way more consistency. You're on the right track with ratcheting crimpers though some of the cheaper ones will have a certain way you should handle them to make them shut all the way. Make sure you have the right die for your wire barrel. If the tool for this is too expensive, and you dont mind doing some legwork try to find specs from one of the milspec companies like DMCtools on thier website for what the gaging size should be, then find a similar style of die that gages the same. If that crimper has the right die set for you itll probably work great. ONLY USE MILSPEC OR UL LISTED WIRE AND TERMINALS. It makes a HUGE HUGE difference in pull strength. Coated milspec wire in UL terminals will pull test significantly higher than UL wire in UL terminals. While I haven't put together any commercial type harnesses (only military and their plastic clones) you may also want to invest in installation and removal tools in case you break a pin or want to remove pins later. Not all of them can be removed with a small screwdriver without breaking your harness.
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Nov 9, 2014 20:38
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That's actually an excellent answer and I thank you for taking the time to post it! Do you have any recommendations for brands and sources I should look out for, for crimpers, heat shrink, and splices?
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Nov 9, 2014 22:20
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I much prefer uninsulated splices with heatshrink - it's cheaper and more versatile than the crimp'n'shrink style splices, they come in almost any size you need, you get better vision of the wire placement, you can choose a suitable heatshrink length and diameter for the insulator, and you can use uninsulated crimping tools which (in my opinion) do a much better job, probably cause they crimp the poo poo out of the splice without concerning themselves over maintaining the outer coating.
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Nov 9, 2014 23:09
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Uninsulated/heatshrinked crimps also have a smaller finished OD, which means you can cram a bunch of splices in the same spot into a loom that's sized properly for the harness. That's my main gripe with shrinkable butts (which I otherwise use almost exclusively)
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Nov 9, 2014 23:17
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Armchair Calvinist posted:That's actually an excellent answer and I thank you for taking the time to post it! IMO the person who makes the crimper doesn't matter that much. DMC/Daniels manufacturing seems to be the industry leader but their crimpers are $$ unless you buy them on eBay. I snagged a crimper for about $60 but good luck finding the right die set. They'll last forever with every day use and are rebuildable though. Heat shrink is the same story, UL listed only. Mil spec is probably better. Splices are another all caps reply of UL only Milspec better. Use harbor freight splices if you ant your car to be on fire. I am not being dramatic it is really potentially that bad even when correctly crimped.
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Nov 9, 2014 23:26
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I'm still trying to work out the name/where to buy these tiny uninsulated wire taps that look like just the crimpable portion of an AMP/weatherpack/whatever connector. They are tiny, and great for tapping into small signal wires, then heatshrinking over to make it compact and stock-looking. Edit: They look like this with the zig-zags offset and the overall thing is not as long. Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 23:57
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:I much prefer uninsulated splices with heatshrink - it's cheaper and more versatile than the crimp'n'shrink style splices, they come in almost any size you need, you get better vision of the wire placement, you can choose a suitable heatshrink length and diameter for the insulator, and you can use uninsulated crimping tools which (in my opinion) do a much better job, probably cause they crimp the poo poo out of the splice without concerning themselves over maintaining the outer coating. My preferred method as well. Very low profile, cheaper than heatshrink crimps, add normal or adhesive heatshrink depending on application.
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Nov 10, 2014 15:53
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Anyone have experience with the hf sawzall? I need something to cut a bit of 2.5" exhaust tubing
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Nov 10, 2014 16:17
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