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Yeah, I suppose the flushing and refilling of the coolant during said core replacement could have done it as well. Googling says that there's likely just an air pocket trapped in the cooling system.
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Nov 7, 2014 01:01
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AncientTV posted:The gurgling is indeed your heater core. I don't actually know if that means it's bad (would be strange on a 40k mile vehicle), but FWIW, I replaced a leaking one on a buddy's truck and the gurgling went away. You could have just bled his cooling system properly and it would have gone away as well.
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Nov 7, 2014 01:17
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Raluek posted:Yeah I'd stick the pan back on with like two or four bolts. Don't want condensation in there, or loose plant material blowing around, or whatever.
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Nov 7, 2014 01:36
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Astonishing Wang posted:This sounds right to me too. I just had a problem with starting and it all came down to dirty connections (they had been sprayed with coolant AND the negative was loosey-goosey). After cleaning the connections and replacing the terminal (I actually replaced the wires and everything) it cranks like a boss. Awesome. I don't know if I'm going to be able to unstick the nuts and bolt in that connector, but if I replace it you guys think I might be in good shape? The only question that leaves for me is why, when I jumped the car when the old battery was still installed, did it crank, start and run for a bit and then die after the jump was disconnected? That's why I thought it was the alternator, because it wasn't able to charge up the jumped battery while it was running. I don't know a whole lot about cars, so I trust whatever explanation you guys have -- just wanting to get to the bottom of it.
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Nov 7, 2014 03:52
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It could be both.
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Nov 7, 2014 04:01
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Electrical systems really do depend on the battery a lot. The alternator can't react instantaneously to load changes.
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Nov 7, 2014 04:10
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98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 has been giving me a headache: -one code for a reoccurring misfire in cylinder 5 -one code for an evap leak that started small, and is now a gross leak The single cylinder misfire is a common thing for 5.9s, and replacing the coil, cap, wires, and plugs with beefier versions should fix the issue. I've ordered a kit from a jeep guy for that, waiting on delivery. For the evap leak, I replaced the gas cap in hopes that it would be that simple. It didn't help, and so I'm about to start the process of checking the evap hoses, canister, etc. That's where I was before today, and was doing alright figuring it out on my own. Here's my problem: Today, the jeep died after taking taking a right turn at a light. It was downhill, but I don't think that mattered much. Engine cut off, and I pulled over. Plenty of power, and the engine cranks just fine. Just doesn't catch. My ODB scanner wouldn't read, however, and the fuel-empty light stays on when the key is turned to ACC. Did some poking around, found a fuse blown:  Replaced the fuse, fuel-empty light went off. Tried starting the jeep, wouldn't catch. Fuse was blown again. So, probably a short someplace. That's about as far as I've been able to get on my own. What's my next move? e: Yay, Jeep Forums. Looks like I'm learning about oxygen sensor wires in the morning. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 05:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:Electrical systems really do depend on the battery a lot. The alternator can't react instantaneously to load changes. When my battery was toast I figured out really quickly I have electrical power steering. I guess I knew that but I forgot. Anyways, yes, if the battery can't hold a charge anymore your car will die.
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Nov 7, 2014 05:41
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I saw a Powerbuilt-brand Wheel Bearing Removal Kit on clearance at a local autoparts store. Is there any particular reason to be picky about what kind of kit to buy? It's on sale for about 30% off, and I was hesitant to buy it because it's all sales final. And I'm not sure if my 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS is front wheel drive, or rear-wheel drive. And there's a different kit for each. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Nov 7, 2014 |
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Nov 7, 2014 18:26
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It's FWD. Odds are the bearings are pressed into the spindle, in which case the only way you're getting them in (or out) is with a hydraulic press. Just remove the spindle from the car and take it (along with a new bearing) to a shop and pay them $20-30 to press it in for you.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:51
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melon cat posted:I saw a Powerbuilt-brand Wheel Bearing Removal Kit on clearance at a local autoparts store. Is there any particular reason to be picky about what kind of kit to buy? It's on sale for about 30% off, and I was hesitant to buy it because it's all sales final. It's most definitely front wheel drive.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:51
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Safety Dance posted:It's most definitely front wheel drive. Geoj posted:It's FWD.
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Nov 7, 2014 19:25
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Basically, if you look at the rear suspension and cannot see a differential housing or driveshafts running to the wheels its FWD. If you do its R/AWD. Almost all cars built in the last 30 years are FWD. Personally, unless that kit is less than $50 I wouldn't buy it. I doubt it will work (well) to get pressed bearings out, when I have to replace a bearing I just pull the whole spindle off the car and pay someone with a hydraulic press to do it for me.
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Nov 7, 2014 19:29
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Geoj posted:Basically, if you look at the rear suspension and cannot see a differential housing or driveshafts running to the wheels its FWD. If you do its R/AWD. Almost all cars built in the last 30 years are FWD. Spoiler: that means the Corolla is front wheel drive too.
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Nov 7, 2014 21:02
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Now if it was an 87 Corolla...
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Nov 7, 2014 21:17
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I thought of that but was trying to keep it simple :P
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Nov 7, 2014 21:19
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That wheel bearing kit is definitely more than $50, so I'll pass on it. Thanks. So, here's a thing. I just put on my steel winter wheels. But now the axle nut's exposed. What's the best way to go about protecting this part of the car? Center caps? Hub caps? Our city's particularly excessive with road salting, so I definitely want to cover up this part. Most cars I've seen with steelies never seem to have a center/hub cap of some sort, which surprises me given how terrible our roads get during the winter.  EDIT: SA forumgoer Tommychu has informed me that my lug nuts are on backwards. Don't be like me, folks. Gotta fix those nuts. melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Nov 9, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 00:59
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melon cat posted:That wheel bearing kit is definitely more than $50, so I'll pass on it. Thanks. All that is is a nut holding the axle in. It's big and beefy so you don't have to worry about is rusting off or anything. It'll be fine uncovered.
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Nov 8, 2014 01:04
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melon cat posted:That wheel bearing kit is definitely more than $50, so I'll pass on it. Thanks. You should probably put center caps over every nut exposed on your suspension and undercarriage. (Just kidding. Fucknag is right. It will get kinda crusty, but a four foot pipe and a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar of the chinese variety take them right off regardless. And I've only needed to go to those extremes once, normally a 1/2" breaker bar and some muscle does the job, even in the northeast.)
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Nov 8, 2014 02:13
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If you really want to be nitpicky just put some standard grease over the exposed end there. e: not the 'end' but that inner area where the threads and nut are.
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Nov 8, 2014 02:15
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So I guess I'm kind of a doofus for hoping that it'd stay shiny and new-looking? 
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Nov 8, 2014 04:26
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I finally hit the point where I am not willing to/can't afford to fix my Mk4 Jetta anymore so I just decided to grab a beater Subaru and throw the VW on Craigslist. The thing is, aside from one major fix (which I listed along with anything else notable) that is needed the car is just all around wonky and has tons of small problems (mostly weird electrical quirks) that are random and hard to describe that I have just gotten used to over the years. I tried to be as up front as possible in my ad and I'm going to try and disclose everything I can, but the car has endless little quirks and problems and I don't know if I'm even going to be able to remember all of them. How should I approach selling this thing? I don't want to hose anyone but I also don't want to talk people out of paying a fair price for it by shouting a big laundry list of things to know before buying it. I'm just worried I'm going to sell it and something is going to go wrong the next day and I'm going to have someone screaming at me on the phone because that car seems to have something going wrong with it every drat day.
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Nov 8, 2014 04:59
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NESguerilla posted:I finally hit the point where I am not willing to/can't afford to fix my Mk4 Jetta anymore so I just decided to grab a beater Subaru and throw the VW on Craigslist. The thing is, aside from one major fix (which I listed along with anything else notable) that is needed the car is just all around wonky and has tons of small problems (mostly weird electrical quirks) that are random and hard to describe that I have just gotten used to over the years. I tried to be as up front as possible in my ad and I'm going to try and disclose everything I can, but the car has endless little quirks and problems and I don't know if I'm even going to be able to remember all of them. How should I approach selling this thing? I don't want to hose anyone but I also don't want to talk people out of paying a fair price for it by shouting a big laundry list of things to know before buying it. Is this still the VR6 one you bought a few years back? Sell it on vwvortex. Everyone there already knows its gonna be a rolling financial liability but will gladly buy it to install coilovers and put on stretched tires to be one of the cool kids.
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Nov 8, 2014 05:15
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melon cat posted:So I guess I'm kind of a doofus for hoping that it'd stay shiny and new-looking? You are, but you should extend this to literally every single thing on your entire car. Things stop looking shiny and new if you do things like 'drive the car' or 'take the car outside'. If the thought of the axle nut getting surface rusty bothers you, never buy a motorbike.
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Nov 8, 2014 05:17
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NESguerilla posted:I finally hit the point where I am not willing to/can't afford to fix my Mk4 Jetta anymore so I just decided to grab a beater Subaru and throw the VW on Craigslist. The thing is, aside from one major fix (which I listed along with anything else notable) that is needed the car is just all around wonky and has tons of small problems (mostly weird electrical quirks) that are random and hard to describe that I have just gotten used to over the years. I tried to be as up front as possible in my ad and I'm going to try and disclose everything I can, but the car has endless little quirks and problems and I don't know if I'm even going to be able to remember all of them. How should I approach selling this thing? I don't want to hose anyone but I also don't want to talk people out of paying a fair price for it by shouting a big laundry list of things to know before buying it. I had a Volvo 240 like this. I wrote a long paragraph explaining all the problems - and no one was interested. Finally I sold it to a flipper for $350 . He said "you haven't sold this car because you were too honest about it."At least he said he was just going to fix the minor stuff and sell it to the next poor person who came along who really needed a car.
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Nov 8, 2014 05:28
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melon cat posted:So I guess I'm kind of a doofus for hoping that it'd stay shiny and new-looking? To put it in perspective, if you didn't have steel wheels on right now you likely wouldn't even know it was rusting unless you pulled the wheels off to do a brake job or rotate tires. Granted it's unsightly but cars are ugly during the winter months anyways.
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Nov 8, 2014 06:41
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I'm not getting much love in the BMW thread, so I'm taking the liberty to cross post this here: I've been plagued with an intermittent whine at around 70 kph on my E87 118i for a few months, and I've tried to chase it down without luck. It wasn't nearly enough that I was hugely concerned with it, and I kinda wrote it off as being an old car thing (2007, 130k km.) It started after a diff oil change, of all things, but that might be coincidental. I rechanged the oil (first change was with Red Line but went back to the BMW recommended Castrol.) I changed to winters last night, which are slightly smaller in diameter (195/50R16 vs. 225/40R18), and now I have a distinct whine under WOT at ~130 kph, regardless of gear. I think it's the diff, but I'm not sure. Why it coincided with changing wheels I have no idea, but I did lift the car by the diff (official lifting point) so that might have pushed something around sufficiently to cause the noise. Searching the net for "e87 diff whine", it seems that diff whine is very common on E8x and E9x cars. First hit on Google is a UK outfit selling a GBP 299 (!) rebuild kit. So, BMW nerds, what do I do? New diff? Rebuild? Banana peel stuffed through the filler hole? Edit: bonus question, the diff has quite a bit of axial play in it. Rear wheels on ground, parking brake set, I can rotate the prop shaft maybe 5 degrees back and forth. Is this normal? bolind fucked around with this message at 13:52 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 10:25
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thylacine posted:I had a Volvo 240 like this. I wrote a long paragraph explaining all the problems - and no one was interested. Finally I sold it to a flipper for $350 Those are known for having crappy wiring harnesses.
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Nov 8, 2014 10:59
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My AC compressor has been making a horrible grinding sound. Can anyone tell if it's bearing noise rather than internal wear? Here's a fun video of us turning it on and off at idle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auOaiWz_nJY That brief scraping sound doesn't usually go away after a second or two. Not sure why it's behaving better today. Engine is a Toyota 1UZFE in a (white) Soarer, compressor is unique to the model of car (but of the same design as other early 90's Toyota/Lexus models) and is no longer available to buy, so I'm hoping that it can be repaired. It's an fixed displacement axial piston type. I won't be touching it until the middle of next year, I'm just wondering if I should start the search for a replacement.
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Nov 8, 2014 18:52
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Friend has a 2010 Nissan Versa, 88k, auto (not CVT). His description of the problem has me thinking fuel pump or MAF, but a MAF would usually throw it into limp home, and not cause it to stall. You guys decide. This is the chat log, since he's not local to me at the moment: quote:When pushing on the accelerator if feels like almost like the engine is barely moving along e: he just tried to start it after sitting all night. started fine, running fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 18:53
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bolind posted:I'm not getting much love in the BMW thread, so I'm taking the liberty to cross post this here: That amount of play is normal, I'd just get a second hand diff and chuck it in. Keeping in mind they'll have a million different ratios. ShittyPostmakerPro posted:My AC compressor has been making a horrible grinding sound. Can anyone tell if it's bearing noise rather than internal wear? Here's a fun video of us turning it on and off at idle. Why don't you try turning the compressor by hand with the engine off and seeing if it's rough. Also check the belt tensioner bearing if there is one. some texas redneck posted:Friend has a 2010 Nissan Versa, 88k, auto (not CVT). I've seen cars do this before when the fuel pump seizes up when it's hot.
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Nov 8, 2014 19:42
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Slavvy posted:
That's exactly what it sounds like to me. Especially with the tank being mostly empty.
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Nov 8, 2014 20:54
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melon cat posted:That wheel bearing kit is definitely more than $50, so I'll pass on it. Thanks. Your lugnuts are also on backwards. If you'd like your wheels to stay attached to the car I'd recommend turning the nuts cone side in. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 21:01
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So here's a few really stupid questions from someone who just got a manual (2003 Rav4) car: 1. Is it ever a good idea to get the car in motion from 2nd gear in a full stop? Or should I always be using first gear? I feel like I already know the answer to this but I just want to make sure. 2. Engine braking is also bad, yes? (by which I mean downshifting to slow the car down) 3. Is it okay to skip gears? Say I'm on the highway and revved up/fast enough in 3rd gear to just switch to 5th.
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Nov 8, 2014 21:50
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Away all Goats posted:So here's a few really stupid questions from someone who just got a manual (2003 Rav4) car: Depending on the gearing, starting out in 2nd isn't too bad, but you will still have to slip the clutch or rev it more than necessary to get it moving, and there's rarely a reason to do it. Engine braking is fine, downshifting is fine as long as you double-clutch the shift (that is, push in clutch, take out of gear into neutral, drop clutch, blip the throttle to raise the RPMs to approximately where the lower gear will put the engine, clutch in, shift into lower gear, clutch out, in under a couple seconds) other wise you will put a lot of wear on both your clutch and your engine. Skipping gears is totally fine as long as you don't lug (putting it at a really low RPM with a high load demand, will break things) the engine by doing it. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Nov 8, 2014 |
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Nov 8, 2014 21:57
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Away all Goats posted:So here's a few really stupid questions from someone who just got a manual (2003 Rav4) car: 1. Useful sometimes on sheer ice, you have less torque available so it's easier to avoid spinning. Otherwise you're just needlessly murdering your clutch. 2. Engine braking is a very good thing if you do it properly, get used to your ratios/shift points first and then read up on technique and start practising. 3. Yes, it's just inefficient.
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Nov 8, 2014 21:59
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Terrible Robot posted:downshifting is fine as long as you double-clutch the shift (that is, push in clutch, take out of gear into neutral, drop clutch, blip the throttle to raise the RPMs to approximately where the lower gear will put the engine, clutch in, shift into lower gear, clutch out, in under a couple seconds) other wise you will put a lot of wear on both your clutch and your engine.
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Nov 8, 2014 22:00
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Cage posted:Why do you have to let the clutch out while in N? When I do the rev matching I [clutch in, shift to N, give throttle blip and downshift same time, clutch out]. Double clutching just saves a bit of synchro wear since you're manually matching mainshaft/countershaft speeds. Modern gearboxes don't mind that speed difference too much, but it is The Right Way (I just rev match same as you, far too lazy to double clutch)
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Nov 8, 2014 22:06
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Cage posted:Why do you have to let the clutch out while in N? When I do the rev matching I [clutch in, shift to N, give throttle blip and downshift same time, clutch out]. It spins up the transmission input shaft and clutch disk at the same time, putting less wear on the synchros because they don't have to bring all that extra mass up to speed as well. e;f,b I do it on my manuals because they are either old or known for having weak synchros so I try to do what I can to make them last.
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Nov 8, 2014 22:06
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I think there are edge cases (e.g. Honda S2000) where skipping fifth and going straight into sixth is bad, but it's fine in most vehicles.
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Nov 8, 2014 22:10
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