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BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Well that takes me back.

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Gerty
Jun 11, 2013

by XyloJW
.

Kurtofan
Feb 16, 2011

hon hon hon

Fauxtool posted:

Lol shrekt. Have fun cleaning this up zorak

At least he won't be alone in cleaning up, it's spreading to TvIv.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
Well I guess spamming forums is about as productive of a use of time as building plastic toys.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Hello old friend.

ZenMasterBullshit
Nov 2, 2011

Restaurant de Nouvelles "À Table" Proudly Presents:
A Climactic Encounter Ending on 1 Negate and a Dream

BlitzBlast posted:

Let's see, that's the Shining's head/arms on the F91's chest on the the DX's bottom half with a different thruster on the dick, right? First things first you'll have to actually check if the F91's torso even looks alright on the DX's body. Luckily for you I actually have both, so let me just snap them together real fast and see.



It looks... alright, I guess? That odd black bit in the center of your lineart is presumably supposed to be the white piece on that connects the DX's torso to the waist, but that's incompatible with the F91.



As is, the connection between the the waist and the torso is a little weird from up close but serviceable from afar.

As for actual painting, you're lucky enough that all of the orange bits are actually separate pieces. Grab a spraycan of orange and just go nuts. The red, though, will actually require some detail work, so look up the handpainting posts from a while back. You are again lucky that it won't be very tough, as the HG DX's legs were designed to be easy to paint the details of while the F91's chest is also easy enough to paint. You'll have more trouble with the F91's vulcans and the two toning on the DX's front skirt armor, honestly.

Thanks for the help, man! This is really useful. This is going on the back burner though, as I found out there actually was a kit for the best SD gundam of all time, CAPTAIN GUNDAM.

ZenMasterBullshit fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Nov 10, 2014

Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

Should I get GM Sniper II or Sniper K9?

K9 has more (and better) accessories, but I prefer Sniper II's colour scheme.

TaurusOxford
Feb 10, 2009

Dad of the Year 2021

Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

Should I get GM Sniper II or Sniper K9?

K9 has more (and better) accessories, but I prefer Sniper II's colour scheme.

Get both and put the K9 parts on GM Sniper II. If that's not an option, get the K9. You can never go wrong with more posing/display options.

Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge


Thank you, pusher-man.

I considered it, I'm not gonna lie.

I might get the K9 first then pick the II once I get paid again.

Dj Meow Mix
Jan 27, 2009

corgicorgicorgicorgi
rockin everywhere


Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

Thank you, pusher-man.

I considered it, I'm not gonna lie.

I might get the K9 first then pick the II once I get paid again.

I watched a roommate build the k9, it's pretty cool. I had fun posing it in Naked Snake-esque poses with the pistol and knife when he wasn't around, kinda makes me want to buy a couple and do some weird paint jobs.

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

Dj Meow Mix posted:

I watched a roommate build the k9, it's pretty cool. I had fun posing it in Naked Snake-esque poses with the pistol and knife when he wasn't around, kinda makes me want to buy a couple and do some weird paint jobs.

Buy it and pose it with a AGE Spallow for max ninja

Samba De Amigo
Jun 11, 2014

Dj Meow Mix posted:

I watched a roommate build the k9, it's pretty cool. I had fun posing it in Naked Snake-esque poses with the pistol and knife when he wasn't around, kinda makes me want to buy a couple and do some weird paint jobs.

The only thing I wasn't really satisfied with in that kit was the legs; they were pretty weak given the size of his accessories. Posing him with the backpack and custom sniper can be a problem at times.

The accessories were definitely cool though and probably made the purchase worth it anyways. Little army man was just the prop I needed for a Gouf or Zaku to step on.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Re: nub removal, I posted in the last thread about Gundam Planet's video mentioning curved blades.

I can now state from my personal experience that curved blades are AMAZING for nub removal and everyone should give it a try. I've been doing nothing but curved blades on Metal Gear Rex, which is now complete.

Cut the part from the sprue close to the tree, then cut down the nub to around 2mm remaining. Err on the side of any stress from the cut being far away from the part.

Use the curved blade with just a slight slicing motion to push through with just enough pressure. You're making the first few slices AWAY from the surface of the part just to be sure. e.g. the Major Nelson step 5 method:

One or two to remove the remaining bulk on each side of the nub.

Then repeat on the other side of the nub.

Cut flush with the surface. There's gonna be a slight bit of nub but zero - ZERO - white stress marks if you do it right. The rest is just careful shaving with the curve of the blade or sanding to completely flush.

It's a different paradigm than the standard #11 or other angled blades - with those you're pushing through the nub. Once you get just the right amount of pressure, it's perfect.

I hate to use a sports analogy but think of it like swinging a golf club or baseball bat - you're aiming to get the right motion to connect and have the right follow-through. If you push too hard or slice too hard with a curved blade, you get the stress mark.

I'll see if I can put together a video on this, seeing as the only one I can think of that teaches the curved blade is the Gundam Planet one, and that doesn't really get granular into how to do it.

It does take some getting used to - my earlier Rex post has some meh nubs galore that have since been cleaned up a little: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3678195&pagenumber=2&perpage=40#post437175085

Cat Machine
Jun 18, 2008

Cat Machine posted:

They're... okay. I've ordered from them a few times with relative success (their cheapest delivery option uses low-rent couriers like Yodel and Hermes rather than Royal Mail which comes with a fair number of issues), but had a truly terrible experience with them the other week that has kinda sworn me off using them again.

Ordered a Build Burning Gundam and it was delivered by an absolute prick of a courier - he left it on the window ledge outside my ground-floor flat on a rainy day. That would be a fairly irritating incident on its own, but was compounded by the fact that Japan Cool had simply wrapped the kit's box in paper - no packaging box or padding/insulation. So once I got it inside, the kit box had basically been reduced to paper-mache and a couple of the runners were completely wrecked. I'll pull the photos off my phone later to show just how nightmareish the whole thing looked.

I got in touch with them to complain, and the owner was fairly apologetic and offered a free replacement with next-day delivery... Only it didn't show up for over a week. He gave me free delivery on my next order as compensation for that, but that's not much use when I'm probably never going to use them again.
Figured I would dig up this post from page 4 because the guys who run the store ended up coming across it and gave me an HGRECO Grimoire with next-day delivery for free by way of further apology. Really good of them!

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Isn't the K9 unit available separately? Or does it not connect to the regular GM Sniper?

Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

BizarroAzrael posted:

Isn't the K9 unit available separately? Or does it not connect to the regular GM Sniper?

It is available separately...but it also doesn't connected to the regular Sniper.

I'm gonna get both, just the K9 first.

ChaiCalico
May 23, 2008

One of the customize weapon kits has a nicer sniper rifle that I guess is easier to hold. I eventually just gave the big rifle in the k-9 kit to the dogbot as it was limiting the main suit poses. The yonen kirks zaku I is also a cool sniper kit.

ChaiCalico fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Nov 10, 2014

Blackchamber
Jan 25, 2005

MJP posted:

I've been doing nothing but curved blades on Metal Gear Rex, which is now complete.


So uh... wheres the pics?

everythingWasBees
Jan 9, 2013




MJP posted:

Re: nub removal, I posted in the last thread about Gundam Planet's video mentioning curved blades.

I can now state from my personal experience that curved blades are AMAZING for nub removal and everyone should give it a try. I've been doing nothing but curved blades on Metal Gear Rex, which is now complete.

Cut the part from the sprue close to the tree, then cut down the nub to around 2mm remaining. Err on the side of any stress from the cut being far away from the part.

Use the curved blade with just a slight slicing motion to push through with just enough pressure. You're making the first few slices AWAY from the surface of the part just to be sure. e.g. the Major Nelson step 5 method:

One or two to remove the remaining bulk on each side of the nub.

Then repeat on the other side of the nub.

Cut flush with the surface. There's gonna be a slight bit of nub but zero - ZERO - white stress marks if you do it right. The rest is just careful shaving with the curve of the blade or sanding to completely flush.

It's a different paradigm than the standard #11 or other angled blades - with those you're pushing through the nub. Once you get just the right amount of pressure, it's perfect.

I hate to use a sports analogy but think of it like swinging a golf club or baseball bat - you're aiming to get the right motion to connect and have the right follow-through. If you push too hard or slice too hard with a curved blade, you get the stress mark.

I'll see if I can put together a video on this, seeing as the only one I can think of that teaches the curved blade is the Gundam Planet one, and that doesn't really get granular into how to do it.

It does take some getting used to - my earlier Rex post has some meh nubs galore that have since been cleaned up a little: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3678195&pagenumber=2&perpage=40#post437175085

You mentioned earlier that you were using an x-acto blade for this, right? Do you happen to know the number of the blade? And does this method work for pulling the blade instead of pushing. I've never actually gotten down cutting away from myself, instead of towards me. :downs:

Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

everythingWasBees posted:

You mentioned earlier that you were using an x-acto blade for this, right? Do you happen to know the number of the blade? And does this method work for pulling the blade instead of pushing. I've never actually gotten down cutting away from myself, instead of towards me. :downs:

How many fingers do you have left, out of interest?

BENGHAZI 2
Oct 13, 2007

by Cyrano4747

TaurusOxford posted:

Just because you have buyer's remorse doesn't mean you're allowed to try and stick that on the rest of us.

Who said I have buyer's remorse? It looks baller on my shelf.

Fauxtool posted:

I have spent a ton of money on plastic, but I can comfortably say I never wasted it on something terrible like a neo zeong. Even the dendrobium seems better since its not 50% hollow space.

would you rather have 1 neo zeong or 20 HG kits? Zeong only makes sense at a sub $150 pricepoint

One zeong, as evidenced by the fact that I don't have many HG kits and prefer building fewer MGs.

Now, if you asked me if I'd rather have a few MGs, that's a tougher call, because I do really enjoy buidling them, but the Zeong still looks dope.

BENGHAZI 2 fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Nov 10, 2014

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
All X-Acto blade types can be viewed on their website, with the #10 being the cheapest curved blade by a good margin.

Also I cut towards myself pretty frequently, but never with enough pressure to actually break the skin. Learned that the hard way.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

everythingWasBees posted:

You mentioned earlier that you were using an x-acto blade for this, right? Do you happen to know the number of the blade? And does this method work for pulling the blade instead of pushing. I've never actually gotten down cutting away from myself, instead of towards me. :downs:

I used a #10 curved blade, my bad. My local hobby shop has the #16 mini curved blade, which looks promising - the #10 has a large straight edge, which I found useful during the shaving phase, whereas #16 is all curve. #22 is like a less-long #10, which is on my list to try as well.

I had to run out of the house - yesterday I finished the railgun and radar at my in-laws' house, and I'm not yet attaching them to the main body to make life easier when decaling happens.

Here's a bad blurry photo for now:

I wonder how I'm gonna panel line this sucker.

One major pitfall, though. The peg that connects the leg to the... uh... hip? snapped off by my fault. Instead of connecting the peg to the leg and pushing it into the hip receptacle (it's a D-shaped peg that goes into the hip, a ball joint for the leg) I was stupid and put the peg into the hip, then pushed the leg on. SNAP went the D-shaped peg, formed by two parts, flying away somewhere.

It took a fuckton of superglue to secure it. It's a bit of white spiderweb that you see in the hip. I may paint over it, but I definitely decree that on my Rex, there will never be pictures of it from the left side because of my dumbassery.

IF YOU BUILD REX, BE CAREFUL WITH THE HIP JOINT. GET THE BALL JOINT INTO THE LEG FIRST.

I'm also trying painting the figures for the first time ever. It's a big new to me. A guide I have basically says prime the figures, then used a watered-down brown acrylic as a base coat. After that, just mix some flesh color with the brown, drybrush, let dry, and progressively mix in more flesh to the brown then continue drybrushing. Use washes for the hair.

I am so scared of not having proper figures for this, I want to show the scale of Metal Gear by having Snake face off against it :ohdear:

Also, does anyone have any Detolf alternatives that are a little bit less profile-y? I've only got one decent spot in the nerd room to put a display case, and I worry that A) a Detolf will be partially cut off by a curved TV stand that I can't really move much more, and B) the area it'll be placed will be exposed to a lot of natural light from the rear. I don't mind having less space, so long as it can display MGs.

Edit:

Vaporware posted:

I use a #11 blade for nub removal and almost always cut towards the flat of my thumbpad. I apply gentle pressure and a tiny bit of sawing action. Typically I only need to burnish the spot with my fingernail and it is like there never was a nub to begin with, no sanding.
If I have to use anything more than very gentle pressure, I switch the blade out because it has dulled enough to graduate to general usage.

This is a perfectly valid method as well, and what I did until I tried the curved blades. Even the curved blade removal, if done perfectly, may leave some minor stress that a fingernail burnish takes care of. There's almost always that tiny bit of dark discoloration relative to the plastic around, and I've found no amount of progressive sanding gets rid of it; this is almost completely negated by matte/flat coating.

To me, the curved blade advantage is that it's a lot easier to get the nub down correct with less risk of stress marks. Moreover it's easier to do shaving - just gently shave with the curved part as needed, and doing it that way means you get less risk of shaving off other parts of the part in question.

Do what works best for you, always. I say try both if you don't mind experimenting with the #10s.

MJP fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 10, 2014

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
I use a #11 blade for nub removal and almost always cut towards the flat of my thumbpad. I apply gentle pressure and a tiny bit of sawing action. Typically I only need to burnish the spot with my fingernail and it is like there never was a nub to begin with, no sanding.
If I have to use anything more than very gentle pressure, I switch the blade out because it has dulled enough to graduate to general usage.

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
You can also buy like 100 #11 blades in a pack that is cheap as hell per blade, like 15 cents each or some poo poo

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
The #11 kind of sucks for nub removal because the steep angle and long cutting surface means they're more likely to damage the part and they're an awkward pain in the rear end to use, generally. Cheap, yes, but I find them a lot less useful than more specialized shapes.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

signalnoise posted:

You can also buy like 100 #11 blades in a pack that is cheap as hell per blade, like 15 cents each or some poo poo

ding ding ding we have a winner

everythingWasBees
Jan 9, 2013




Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

How many fingers do you have left, out of interest?

I've only ever caused a bit of damage to my thumb, and nothing ever significant enough to even draw blood.
The worst thing in any handwork was working with wire with sharply pointed ends, with lackluster tools. My hands went numb from pain and I basically had to soak them in hydrogen peroxide to keep the infection at bay.

Mecha Gojira
Jun 23, 2006

Jack Nissan
If the tips of your thumbs aren't mostly scartissue at this point, you haven't been in this hobby long enough.

BENGHAZI 2
Oct 13, 2007

by Cyrano4747

Mecha Gojira posted:

If the tips of your thumbs aren't mostly scartissue at this point, you haven't been in this hobby long enough.

I cut off the tip of my index finger the first time I used an xacto. And I mean the tip, a nice little hunk came out and I was all out of bandages so I had to wrap my hand in a towel and drive to the store with one hand and cannibalize a box of Band Aids in the aisle before I paid because I was bleeding hard.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
You know what?



My HG Turn A can suck it, the MG's keeping this.

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
That sounds like some informercial style fuckup dude

Zwingley
Sep 20, 2011

"My dear Seth, you look absolutely dashing!"

Hair Elf
Does Bandai have a release calendar like this for December yet? I want to know if I can just barely squeeze the Winning Gundam into my HLJ shipment of Build Fighters Try cocaine before it ships out due to the 60-day time limit on my Build Burning Gundam.

BlitzBlast
Jul 30, 2011

some people just wanna watch the world burn
Calendars don't come out until the month actually starts, sorry.

Bimmi
Nov 8, 2009


someday
but not today
Seriously, one bad knife injury should be enough to clue you in that any cutting force strong enough to pierce flesh is Too drat Much. I bisected the tip of my index finger 25 years ago because I was being an idiot and you better believe I made sure it never happened again. poo poo is no laughing matter and it's certainly not some unavoidable part of the hobby.

ChaiCalico
May 23, 2008

I cut off the tip of my index finger when trimming down covers for old games using a ruler an exacto knife, finger was just a bit over the line. I'd easily go through multiple solder burns than cleaning up that loving cut again.

BENGHAZI 2
Oct 13, 2007

by Cyrano4747
I trim all my nubs with a chainsaw and cut towards myself, with my eyes closed to keep plastic out of them. Y'all are bustas.

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
I have baby soft pristine hands because im not an idiot with sharp objects :smuggo:

How is the gm sniper k9 supposed to hold his rifle when firing it? The buttstock is way too big. Is this just another case of doing what looks cool, not looks right?

Tenzarin
Jul 24, 2007
.
Taco Defender
Try out a concaved xacto blade, I've heard good things.



http://www.amazon.com/X-acto-Concave-Carving-Blade-pack/dp/B0000DD1NE

On the plus side its curved like a sickle to just slice your fingers off.

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Gyro Zeppeli
Jul 19, 2012

sure hope no-one throws me off a bridge

Fauxtool posted:

I have baby soft pristine hands because im not an idiot with sharp objects :smuggo:

How is the gm sniper k9 supposed to hold his rifle when firing it? The buttstock is way too big. Is this just another case of doing what looks cool, not looks right?

I think the intended way is "Give the giant rifle to dogbot, suit uses the normal sized one".

As far as I can remember, even in the show, the only time it used the giant rifle was laying prone, before giving it to dogbot.

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