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Thank you, I've just realized after building Rozen Zulu, that Zakus are marginally cooler than gundams.
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Nov 13, 2014 15:05
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| # ? May 18, 2024 02:08 |
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Oh man, the HGUC Kampfer comes with so many accessories and options  Two sabers, two bazookas, two shotguns, two stormfausts, and the chain of mines it swings around Alex.
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Nov 13, 2014 16:21
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Oh man, the HGUC Kampfer comes with so many accessories and options The Kampfer's accessory load-out is cool as hell. Actually both the HGUC version of it and the HGBF Amazing version have cool as hell accessories. Suit is just too cool for it's own good.
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Nov 13, 2014 16:25
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Oh man, the HGUC Kampfer comes with so many accessories and options I'm just sad the Kampfer Amazing didn't come with a shotgun, because it's still got the rear end-mount clip and tab for it.
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Nov 13, 2014 16:25
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It's time for my bi-annual update! Today we'll be looking at hands, since if you remember back to the last thread, I'd done the frame and armour for my Frame Arms ZenRai but nothing else. I didn't bother with a pre-shading step on the hands since they're tiny and I don't have an airbrush with that fine a spray, nor do I think it would make much impact on such small surfaces. Painting and weathering went fine, as did the gloss coating and pin-wash. However, once I'd sprayed the matt coat...  Ruh-roh! It's the deadly varnish frosting! This probably happened for a couple of reasons. I probably didn't shake my can enough before spraying and I was also spraying in very humid conditions, though I didn't think about it at the time. My judgement was impaired due to being ill and wanting to do something productive if I wasn't going to be at work. Let this be a lesson! Take the time to be ill and don't rush things! Now normally once you've gotten the deadly matt frost you're hosed. You can try and undo the damage by reapplication of gloss coat and spray matt again, but that doesn't always work. In fact in this instance it made it worse. Your other option is to strip it all the way back to plastic and start over. But then I stumbled across This One Weird Trick:  See the difference? You know what fixed it? Olive oil. I have no idea how someone figured that out, but I bless you, anonymous internet person. It's not a perfect fix, as ideally you'd start over again and not gently caress it up the second time, but my time is short and you'd barely know the frosting had happened after application. You just brush on some olive oil, let it sit for a while, then wipe the excess. I'd love to know the chemistry behind it (or maybe it's physics?). I'm guess frosting occurs when you have moisture (either water or other solvent) trapped between your paint and varnish then it draws out over time and some component of the matt varnish gets pulled to the surface with it. We all know water and oil don't mix, so does the olive oil drive out the remaining moisture or is it that it breaks down whatever material is sitting on the surface of the varnish? Or both? Whatever, it seems to work. I have no idea if it's possible to put further layers on to the parts once you've oiled them, as these hands are DONE. I also finished shading my rifle parts today, and the knife. Since I don't have any weapons available for this fella', guess he's going to have to go bare-fist for now.  
runwiled fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Nov 13, 2014 |
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Nov 13, 2014 16:41
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:A quick search turns up the Schuzrum-Galluss They shoulda picked a name that translated to "punching anteater"
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Nov 13, 2014 17:43
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As far as I know there are just a bunch of guys who are dedicated to trying to find every household solution there is. I mean hell, people use lighter fluid in this hobby. Also forget Friday, my final Gundam X delivery came in today.  Since I have zero interest in getting Airmaster or Leopard unless I miraculously find them cheaper than I paid for their upgrades, and since there isn't a 1/100 Ashtaron (and the resin one is long out of print) to go with the Virsago, for all intents and purposes my collection is complete!  You know, unless Bandai announces a new HGAW or MG but DETAILS.
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Nov 13, 2014 20:14
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BlitzBlast posted:As far as I know there are just a bunch of guys who are dedicated to trying to find every household solution there is. I mean hell, people use lighter fluid in this hobby. Oh my god. How many of them have you gotten around to building?
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Nov 13, 2014 20:20
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HG X Divider was finished a while ago (and I kind of flubbed it which is why I grabbed that extra HG GX), I started work on HG Airmaster and DX before I dropped them to focus on the Unicorn, and 1/100 DX was my experimental kit for welding. Oh and MG GX has been sitting in a state of 90% completion for a really long time now. I plan on tearing into this pile as soon as I finish up with FA Unicorn plan B.
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Nov 13, 2014 20:23
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I had a vision of a person just sitting in the middle of a circle of boxes laughing like a maniac as all the Gundam X's are complete and pointing inward. The full moon emerges from behind the clouds and the last thing heard is "I BELIEVE IN GOD TIFFA!"
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Nov 13, 2014 20:27
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I kinda get the Gundam X's, ive considered collecting all of the gouf variants. But why do you have 3 of the 109's?
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Nov 13, 2014 21:00
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G-bits.
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Nov 13, 2014 21:11
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Tonight I'm going to finish building the lower half of MG Unicorn and then start on either the arms or the weapons. It's coming along nicely, I'm not doing a lot of lining just because I want that clean white design to stay as it is.
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Nov 14, 2014 01:26
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BlitzBlast posted:As far as I know there are just a bunch of guys who are dedicated to trying to find every household solution there is. I mean hell, people use lighter fluid in this hobby. Beyond collecting all the X's why do you have multiples of the same kit? Are you doing some sort of display?
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Nov 14, 2014 01:52
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I... I literally just said. BlitzBlast posted:G-bits.
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Nov 14, 2014 02:14
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BlitzBlast posted:I... I literally just said. sorry, its super easy to scroll past your short posts with all the dead space from your title
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Nov 14, 2014 02:24
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I have a strange question.  The gently caress does this say? For context, it's on the Kotobukiya Alteisen, talking about two different possible parts to put inside the heavy claymore. One is hard plastic (H18), and one is polycap plastic (PCL), and I know it's saying about what the difference in using the two is, but I can't for the life of me figure out what.
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Nov 14, 2014 02:57
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"Use H 18 if you're going to paint it, PC L for smoother motion." More or less. John Carstairs fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 03:01
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BlitzBlast posted:I... I literally just said. How are you going to do the heads? Take them off GMs or something? Also, how'd you wind up with that title, anyway?
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Nov 14, 2014 03:28
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Gammatron 64 posted:How are you going to do the heads? Take them off GMs or something? You seem to have missed the resin conversion kits that are also in that picture. They're $$$$$$$$$$$ of course. But hey G-Bits.
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Nov 14, 2014 03:34
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Uznare posted:You seem to have missed the resin conversion kits that are also in that picture. They're $$$$$$$$$$$ of course. But hey G-Bits. Oh yeah, I didn't notice those. Goddamn.
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Nov 14, 2014 04:08
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John Carstairs posted:"Use H 18 if you're going to paint it, PC L for smoother motion."
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Nov 14, 2014 04:14
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This makes my plan of someday making a mg 00quanta double binder type a lot more sane. 
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Nov 14, 2014 09:34
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The Build Burning is a lot more complex than I originally though, 2 hours in and I've only completed the upper torso.
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Nov 14, 2014 14:21
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Well it is created by sei iori; world level gunpla sperg.
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Nov 14, 2014 15:31
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I officially have a Kampfer Custom, as I've painted mine. (I painted the white stripe on the horn instead of the sticker because the sticker kept coming loose )
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Nov 14, 2014 16:40
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So what's good primer and top coats to go through an airbrush? Future is out cos I'm in the UK and it sucks. I heard Vallejo primer is good. This is probably mostly to runwiled (thank you for more project posts).
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Nov 14, 2014 16:56
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EthanSteele posted:So what's good primer and top coats to go through an airbrush? Future is out cos I'm in the UK and it sucks. I heard Vallejo primer is good. This is probably mostly to runwiled (thank you for more project posts). I use Vallejo Model Air, the primer can go through without the need to thin, although I tend to thin it a little my self. As for top coats I'd like to know my self, I managed to get a hold of the UK Future mix but I get results nothing like what's shown from the US stuff.
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Nov 14, 2014 18:11
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Luminaflare posted:I use Vallejo Model Air, the primer can go through without the need to thin, although I tend to thin it a little my self. Nice, do you use Vallejo for all your stuff or just primer? Like I think panel lining acrylic over enamel is easy because you can just rubbing alcohol/wipe away acrylic over the enamel but the other way round is a little trickier. I had to be very careful with the gold trim on Sinanju which was acrylic gold with acrylic gloss clear and then black enamel on top, which I then lighter fluid rubbed very gently, but it ate all the way through on a couple of pieces and I had to redo. Gimme all your secrets. I had the same thing with my bottle of Future, it's the milky stuff and just no good.
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Nov 14, 2014 18:29
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EthanSteele posted:Nice, do you use Vallejo for all your stuff or just primer? Like I think panel lining acrylic over enamel is easy because you can just rubbing alcohol/wipe away acrylic over the enamel but the other way round is a little trickier. I had to be very careful with the gold trim on Sinanju which was acrylic gold with acrylic gloss clear and then black enamel on top, which I then lighter fluid rubbed very gently, but it ate all the way through on a couple of pieces and I had to redo. Gimme all your secrets. Yeah, model air is premixed so it's a lot less pissing about when airbrushing.
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Nov 14, 2014 19:00
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What do you guys use for stripping acrylics from plastic without hurting the plastic? I dorked up some of the painting on my Zaku, and want to start from scratch on that part (especially after doing things properly on another part).
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Nov 14, 2014 19:49
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Warmachine posted:What do you guys use for stripping acrylics from plastic without hurting the plastic? I dorked up some of the painting on my Zaku, and want to start from scratch on that part (especially after doing things properly on another part). This stuff strips acrylics like no one's business and doesn't damage plastic as far as I know. I've used it myself. It's pretty awesome. Let it soak for a couple hours then come back with a toothbrush and get scrubbing.
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Nov 14, 2014 19:54
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Warmachine posted:What do you guys use for stripping acrylics from plastic without hurting the plastic? I dorked up some of the painting on my Zaku, and want to start from scratch on that part (especially after doing things properly on another part). windex. Get a big rear end jug and it will last forever.
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Nov 14, 2014 19:55
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EthanSteele posted:So what's good primer and top coats to go through an airbrush? Future is out cos I'm in the UK and it sucks. I heard Vallejo primer is good. This is probably mostly to runwiled (thank you for more project posts). I tried the UK Pledge Future equivalent and it was indeed terrible. I ended up trying this: http://www.humbrol.com/humbrol-gloss-clear-125ml-bottle.html Humbrol basically decided to make their own Klear since there was a gap in the market. It's clearly far more expensive as a result, but it also has the benefit of working. I'm very, very happy with the stuff. Be aware that it's ammonia based so keep it away from substances that are also ammonia based, such as Humbrol Maskol (glad I found out about that before hand!) *Edit* That's obviously just for gloss coats. I used Humbrol Matt Acrylic (not enamel) Varnish for the final coat on my robot armour pieces. I used acrylic varnishes because I paint with enamels and didn't want to make the paint 'active' again. It's also safe to pin-wash/panel-line with enamel based paints as long as it's on top of acrylic. You can also do things like add matt varnish products to the Humbrol Clear to make it more matt, but I've not tried it. I'm happy with the rattle can for now as it requires less loving around, even if it did frost like a bastard the last time. I blame that on my own stupidity, not the product. runwiled fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 20:02
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That's very helpful, thanks a lot! You too Luminaflare!
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Nov 14, 2014 21:03
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I usually use simple green to strip paint and primer, but those were from wargaming minis. Haven't tried on gunpla so I don't know if there are chemical reactions with the type of plastic (i highly doubt it though) that the kits use. Simple green is nice because it's eco/skin friendly but it requires a decent soak and a tooth brush most of the time. On the other hand it's pretty thorough.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:47
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runwiled posted:I tried the UK Pledge Future equivalent and it was indeed terrible. I ended up trying this: I accidentaly bought a bottle of this stuff thinking it was thinner. Will this give me a glossy shine over matt enamels? Can I paint over it?
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Nov 15, 2014 05:24
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Ka0 posted:I accidentaly bought a bottle of this stuff thinking it was thinner. Will this give me a glossy shine over matt enamels? Can I paint over it? Yes and Yes. For a very glossy shine, you'll need to spray / brush on more than one layer, but it will go glossy. It's also safe to paint over (so long as what you're using isn't ammonia based!) I used it as a barrier layer between my paint and wash layer. I also used it after I sprayed my model matt. I wanted the visor to remain shine-y, so I applied some using a paintbrush. It's good stuff. I spilt some once when decanting it onto a frosted glass airbrush holder and it turned the glass transparent again.
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Nov 15, 2014 08:44
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My Grimoire arrived today!  It's a great kit except from a few things. The feet. Posing it is pretty hard because there really isn't much articulation on the feet. The hip joints are kinda floppy too. Gyro Zeppeli fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 14:42
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| # ? May 18, 2024 02:08 |
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I still don't "get" building a gundam in one day
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Nov 15, 2014 14:54
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