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I got http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P6FLOY/ for my oven, but it sits in the mash fine, too.
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Nov 14, 2014 15:56
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Any of you NoVA/MD people going to the real ale thing on Saturday?
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Nov 14, 2014 18:03
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How do you guys clean your beer lines? How often do you do it?
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Nov 14, 2014 18:20
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Anyone ever do a biab mash in an oven? I might try it this weekend because I had a hell of a time keeping the temperature at 150 the first time I tried all grain. The main thing seemed to be keeping enough heat from the burher to keep it from cooling off while not using so much heat that it would go back up to like 170. It also seemed like the bottom of the kettle was consistently 15-20 degrees warmer than the top of the kettle despite lots of stirring.
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Nov 14, 2014 20:55
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Ovens are actually extremely bad at keeping stable temperatures. I wouldn't think it would work well. I think they fluxuate between something like 20 degrees during operation and I wouldn't be surprised if it couldn't do that low temp. I think the readings on mine bottom out at 150 and I wouldn't trust it to be accurate
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Nov 14, 2014 20:57
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Ovens are, however, good insulators, so one thing I've heard people do was turn the oven on, let it get a bit above your mash temp, and then kill the heat and put the mash container inside.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:13
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LaserWash posted:How do you guys clean your beer lines? How often do you do it? All I've done so far is put some oxyclean in a keg, push it through with CO2 and let some sit for a few minutes, then the same with starsan. I would do that every other keg or so, or when it looked like there was gunk in the line. I just got a bottle of actual caustic line cleaner though, and I'm either going to build/buy some sort of hand pump recirculator, or get a cheap submersible pump. I thought about running it through my Chugger pump but that seems like overkill.
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Nov 14, 2014 21:25
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Every few fills (or if I change styles of beer on the line) I'll flush with hot water, flush with oxiclean, let sit for 20min, flush with water, then flush with CO2. I'm using the dairy/food grade tygon lines, and the water coming out of them tastes as clean as the water going into them after many many batches. Also http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-beer-line-cleaner-226497/ is on the 'to do' list.
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Nov 14, 2014 22:01
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The trick is to Always Be Drinking and Brewing and to keep the stuff in the lines moving
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Nov 14, 2014 22:12
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more falafel please posted:All I've done so far is put some oxyclean in a keg, push it through with CO2 and let some sit for a few minutes, then the same with starsan. I would do that every other keg or so, or when it looked like there was gunk in the line. I just got a bottle of actual caustic line cleaner though, and I'm either going to build/buy some sort of hand pump recirculator, or get a cheap submersible pump. I thought about running it through my Chugger pump but that seems like overkill. I got a couple adapters to hook my beer line up to an autosiphon and I just use that to pump PBW through. No reason to use a specialty pump system.
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Nov 14, 2014 22:33
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I was curious about what is involved in making the jump from extact and mash to all mash brewing. What additional equipment is needed for that, as I am assuming that there is more to it that dumping a lot more grain into a sack and an steeping it for 30 minutes? Is it something you can still do with a large pot on a stove top?
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Nov 14, 2014 23:16
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more falafel please posted:All I've done so far is put some oxyclean in a keg, push it through with CO2 and let some sit for a few minutes, then the same with starsan. I would do that every other keg or so, or when it looked like there was gunk in the line. I just got a bottle of actual caustic line cleaner though, and I'm either going to build/buy some sort of hand pump recirculator, or get a cheap submersible pump. I thought about running it through my Chugger pump but that seems like overkill. I found something at the lhbs called liquid line cleaner. It's made by 5-star, it was $4, and should last a while, so that was enough for me.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:19
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ocrumsprug posted:I was curious about what is involved in making the jump from extact and mash to all mash brewing. What additional equipment is needed for that, as I am assuming that there is more to it that dumping a lot more grain into a sack and an steeping it for 30 minutes? Is it something you can still do with a large pot on a stove top? you can definitely do all grain as brew-in-a-bag, it's what I've been doing for a while now because I don't want to drop the money on a mash-tun (or at least I didn't, I'm beginning to think I might just do so). It is do-able on a stove top provided your stove can bring the volume of water you want to use to steeping temp, and can boil the post-mash volume of water afterwards - you will want to keep the mash at a steady temp preferably without using a heat source (so if you do it like me with BIAB, insulate your kettle while it's mashing). equipment for BIAB - same stuff you're already using, some big paint-strainer nylon bags for grain, a big spoon. equipment for full mashing will require a mash-tun of some kind, likely an additional kettle with a valve as well for heating your strike/sparge water and some other stuff I'm forgetting.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:25
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I biab too. Been doing it about a year and haven't looked back. Almost zero is required that you probably don't already have with the exception of a jumbo nylon bag that is sold at any homebrew store. ~$5-6 Thinking of getting one of those fancy bags with the straps soon.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:29
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LaserWash posted:I found something at the lhbs called liquid line cleaner. It's made by 5-star, it was $4, and should last a while, so that was enough for me. Yeah, this is what I got. I was trying to fill a $59 order from MoreBeer to get free shipping.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:32
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Oh that is good news then. I just got back from a trip to Portland, and am now pretty obsessed with seeing if I can make a barleywine. As I was looking over the water quality report for Burnaby it occurred to me that I might be putting the cart before the horse, and should find out if I needed to clean out more storage space downstairs.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:42
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ocrumsprug posted:Oh that is good news then. I just got back from a trip to Portland, and am now pretty obsessed with seeing if I can make a barleywine. Barleywine is going to take a lot of grain depending on the size of the batch you want to make: your stove may not be up to the task (unless you have a gas range maybe, my old coil stove topped out at 3 gallons - and prompted me to buy a propane burner)
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Nov 14, 2014 23:46
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JawKnee posted:Barleywine is going to take a lot of grain depending on the size of the batch you want to make: your stove may not be up to the task (unless you have a gas range maybe, my old coil stove topped out at 3 gallons - and prompted me to buy a propane burner) I have a 19L pot and the coil stove can bring it to a boil so that is probably not a problem. However if most of the pot would be grain then I would need a smaller batch size.
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Nov 14, 2014 23:57
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ocrumsprug posted:I have a 19L pot and the coil stove can bring it to a boil so that is probably not a problem. However if most of the pot would be grain then I would need a smaller batch size. This formula gets me pretty close on my 5 gallon BIAB batches: total starting water volume = target final volume in gallons + (pounds of grain / 8 for absorption) + (minutes boiling / 60 for evaporation) YMMV with a smaller pot and less vigorous boil but it's a place to start. Just remember it's how much water you start with and the grain itself will take up additional space in the pot too. Brewing a robust porter tomorrow to help fill up our club's barrel, club pays for the ingredients members get to share the results.
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Nov 15, 2014 01:03
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ChickenArise posted:Quick beersmith estimations say that like 1.061 OG of Maris Otter (11 lb with my brewing profile) + .75oz simcoe @ 60m + .5oz Simcoe @ 20m + .75oz Simcoe @ 10m is 56 IBU. Coming back to this just for a second. I'll use probably about 12 pounds of MO to make sure I get the 1060 number I want. I'm going to go ahead and do this recipe, but more like this: Option 1: .75 @ 60 min Simcoe .75 @ 20 min Simcoe .75 @ 10 min Simcoe 1.75 @ dry hop for 3-7 days Simcoe The recipe as I've got it now, has me at 1.060 and 60 IBU, which you told me was the number I was shooting for. Is that too much in Dry Hop? How about .75 instead? ***OR*** Option 2: .75 @ 60 min Simcoe .75 @ 20 min Simcoe .75 @ 10 min Simcoe .75 @ flameout Simcoe 1 oz in dry hop This would basically be the same number. Just a few more IBUs because of the isomerization following flameout (minimal). Trying to make my number come out to an even number of ounces (now hop pellet wasted).
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Nov 15, 2014 01:11
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How's this look for an Oatmeal Stout, going for roasty and chocolatey with the oatmealy smooth mouthfeel: 8.5 lbs Maris Otter 1 lb Flaked Oats 1 lb Pale Chocolate 12 oz Victory 12 oz Crystal 80L 8 oz Roasted Barley Mash at 154 ~35 IBU of EKG @60 Also, yeast recommendations? I'd like to have one or two go-to English yeasts harvested, so far my only experience is with S-04, Wyeast 1968/WLP002, and Nottingham. I like all of them, but I'm open.
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Nov 15, 2014 03:06
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more falafel please posted:Also, yeast recommendations? I'd like to have one or two go-to English yeasts harvested, so far my only experience is with S-04, Wyeast 1968/WLP002, and Nottingham. I like all of them, but I'm open. Personally I'd go with 002 any time you're shooting for a chocolatey flavor. It makes just enough diacetyl to get roastiness to taste smooth and sweet instead of bold and coffee-like.
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Nov 15, 2014 03:29
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Moved the ciders to the 'brewhouse' today. We did a big group buy (same guys I do grain with) - we ended up with 500+ gallons ordered. Work bought some for sodas and we're doing a vinegar with a keg's worth, I bought 25. What I pitched: WL670 (American Farmhouse) on apples OLY500 (Hybrid Saison Yeast) S-04 (English Ale) will be getting medium oak WY3726 (Farmhouse Ale) was getting pear skins but they got gross, so likely another fruit, cranberries? WY3787 (Trappist HG) received 5# of honey. Long story on this one is we we're brewing a pale ale and my brewing partner is pretty new to it all - added hops for 60 and 30 at all at 60, so we added a more and went with a low IPA. Then I got my Father-in-law involved with dry hopping and tried to talk him through it on the phone, we didn't put water back in the air locks.  I bottled them. Let it ride. I tested the NG burners today too. They took a poo poo long time to get to boiling and never really went rolling. Oy. Will likely make some adjustments.  Anyone use these and have tips/ideas/etc? Thinking of making a 'stove pipe'.
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Nov 15, 2014 04:12
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more falafel please posted:How's this look for an Oatmeal Stout, going for roasty and chocolatey with the oatmealy smooth mouthfeel: Let me know how it turns out, I had my first go at a creamy smooth oatmeal stout and I kind of balls it up. More like a oatmeal porter (blame the yeast I used, only one I had on hand was san diego super yeast  ).
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Nov 15, 2014 05:54
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Is it me or does this seem abit overkill? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/growlerwerks/the-ukegtm-pressurized-growler-for-fresh-beer?ref=home_popular
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Nov 15, 2014 18:39
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Fluo posted:Is it me or does this seem abit overkill? https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/growlerwerks/the-ukegtm-pressurized-growler-for-fresh-beer?ref=home_popular Little bit overkill and kind of expensive.
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Nov 15, 2014 19:21
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How the gently caress is the sight glass supposed to tell you the level of beer in the growler, when that's the tube that feeds the faucet? E: Their hokey video has exactly zero shots of the sight glass. E2: How does the sight glass work? Beer (or other beverage) travels through an inner dispensing tube within the sight glass, that connects to the tap, while the sight glass is an extension of the vessel with openings at both the top and the bottom. The pressure gauge measures pressure near the bottom of the vessel. OK, so that question is addressed. Still seems like way too money, though. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Nov 15, 2014 |
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Nov 15, 2014 20:01
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LaserWash posted:Coming back to this just for a second. I'll use probably about 12 pounds of MO to make sure I get the 1060 number I want. I'm going to go ahead and do this recipe, but more like this: Both of those look good, and 1.75 is not too much dry hop at all. I'd probably do #2 personally, but also dry hop more 
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Nov 15, 2014 20:50
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What's the most efficient way to heat up the water with a burner? Full blast I'm sure would heat it up quicker at the expense of using more propane. I normally have it set at just a little higher than the setting I use during the boil.
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Nov 16, 2014 02:16
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Glottis posted:3 things: I've always used plastic wrap ever since having issues with fruit flies getting in through airlocks that had run low on air and dosed the whole batch quite severely with acetobacter. My LHBS recommends it over airlock and lid, and there's like 60 years' brewing experience between the 3 and they all do it. I assume there would be oxygen bc I pitched the brett after most of the other stuff and then pitched the strawberries a week or two later. But yeh, LHBS recommended it after I dumped 3 consecutive batches from aceto infections due to airlocks running close to dry. I hold mine down with the rubber seal out of the lid like a giant rubber band so it rarely has issues. My English IPA has it on and it hasn't lost anything. Just a big dome from the CO2
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Nov 16, 2014 02:37
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more falafel please posted:How's this look for an Oatmeal Stout, going for roasty and chocolatey with the oatmealy smooth mouthfeel: WLP023 is my go to english yeast after one batch. Get a solid starter going and dump the whole lot in, DME and all. It won't really affect your beer in terms of flavour (it's just adding more base malt imvho). Within 2 days of mine starting on an english IPA it had a 10 litre krausen. Yep. I'm basically going to keep this yeast on hand, try and wash it off from the trub, and use a solid starter for a RIS, or even just dump it straight onto the trub
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Nov 16, 2014 02:44
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ocrumsprug posted:I was curious about what is involved in making the jump from extact and mash to all mash brewing. What additional equipment is needed for that, as I am assuming that there is more to it that dumping a lot more grain into a sack and an steeping it for 30 minutes? Is it something you can still do with a large pot on a stove top? I went from an 11L partial boil to a 40 litre all in one with an electric urn. $300 for the urn with a 1/2 inch barb ball valve, 20 bucks for a good quality large nylon bag. That's my entire thing. Oh and a mash paddle. And I can pump out up to about 30 litre batches depending on the starting gravity. Smallest was 15 litres (RIS with about 10kg of grain,  ) and biggest was 30 in a berliner weisse with about 3.5kg grain.
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Nov 16, 2014 02:46
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Double brew day. Did a "what do I have left" brew first: 4lb wheat DME 1lb sugar 1oz magnum 45m 1oz cascade 10m 1oz mosaic 0m 1oz galaxy 0m Then used my first Omega Yeast strain (just the basic west coast ale strain) Next up was my version of the Mad Fermentationist New Zealand Saison...and my first ever boil over. I brewed my first beer like 6 years ago...and I just boiled over today. Don't get cocky kids. Pitched 3711, 5112(brett brux), and some JP dregs. Should be interesting at least haha.
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Nov 16, 2014 04:03
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two_beer_bishes posted:What's the most efficient way to heat up the water with a burner? Full blast I'm sure would heat it up quicker at the expense of using more propane. I normally have it set at just a little higher than the setting I use during the boil. With the lid on? The only time you need to take the lid off is during the boil to let the DMS out. I use a Blichmann burner and the instructions tell you to adjust the gas as high as you can until the little blue cones start jumping off the nozzles and then back it off a little. Brewed the club's robust porter for the barrel fill today in the shade in ~35 F weather which sucked quite a bit. Brewtoad claimed OG 1.071 with 75% efficiency and I ended up with 1.065. I hit target volume almost exactly after straining out all the whole hop leaves with a giant mesh strainer that fit perfectly on top of the bucket. It did get me wondering about better ways to measure volumes though. I've seen the sight gauges which look nice but I don't want to pay that much and drill a hole in my pot. I thought about engraving some marks on the inside of my pot too. It's aluminum so a dremel engraver bit would work fine. I also saw some DIY electric etching stuff online. The simplest approach though seemed to be a stick, usually metal, with calibrated markings on it. I improvised this time by using a tape measure and some math but I'll need to make one for future brews.
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Nov 16, 2014 04:24
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Cpt.Wacky posted:With the lid on? The only time you need to take the lid off is during the boil to let the DMS out. I use a Blichmann burner and the instructions tell you to adjust the gas as high as you can until the little blue cones start jumping off the nozzles and then back it off a little. I have the lid on while steeping grains if I'm doing extract, otherwise the lid is off. Thanks for the tips on gas setting, just want to be able to get as many brews as possible out of a tank.
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Nov 16, 2014 04:32
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ChiTownEddie posted:Double brew day. that sounds tasty as gently caress. I love the combo of galaxy and mosaic, or galaxy and nelson sauvin. I'm debating whether to fire it up today but be hosed if it isn't about 35 celsius outside  I'm looking to brew something and ferment it out either with Old Sonoma or a Kolsch yeast. 3kg pearl malt (I have a 25kg sack to get through) 450g blonde candi syrup 10 IBU Sterling @ 60 10 IBU Sterling @ 30 Nelson Sauvin and Ella @ 5 20 minute NS and Ella hop steep Kolsch or Old Sonoma. I'm leaning toward Kolsch because it tends to accentuate hop flavour more and I believe NS and Ella will make an awesome aromatic, light bodied summer ale. But on the same token I want to do a couple of lagers soon so I am debating whether to bring out and keg my Berliner Weisse (not sure if it's sour enough for me though) and put the english IPA into that fermenting fridge as it's about 3 days from kegging, and put this one in its' place when I keg it. It is a mystery.
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Nov 16, 2014 04:55
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McSpergin posted:that sounds tasty as gently caress. I love the combo of galaxy and mosaic, or galaxy and nelson sauvin. I'm debating whether to fire it up today but be hosed if it isn't about 35 celsius outside Galaxy and Nelson Sauvin is my absolute favorite dry hop right now (still, for about a year haha). I had galaxy and nelson for that reason, luckily deciding to brew a New Zealand beer means I get to try mosaic and galaxy  Still angry about my boil over, drat. Hahaha
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Nov 16, 2014 05:09
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internet celebrity posted:Personally I'd go with 002 any time you're shooting for a chocolatey flavor. It makes just enough diacetyl to get roastiness to taste smooth and sweet instead of bold and coffee-like. Yeah, I'm probably gonna do 002 (well, 1968, but whatever) unless I get lazy and forget to make a starter, in which case it'll either be S-04 or Windsor. I've only used 002 in cider before, and I didn't want to make a starter since I was trying to keep it gluten free, and I didn't want to harvest it for beer after it had been used in cider, so I didn't save any. I figure it'll be good to have around.
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Nov 16, 2014 16:49
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two_beer_bishes posted:I have the lid on while steeping grains if I'm doing extract, otherwise the lid is off. Thanks for the tips on gas setting, just want to be able to get as many brews as possible out of a tank. I don't know what burner you're using but many of them have a pretty significant loss around the sides. Someone here has posted how they have a piece of stove pipe? wrapped around the burner which also functions as a windbreak. A brewer in my club has a few cinder blocks around the base of his Blichmann burner. I forgot to take a picture but it's something I'm going to look into since it should be a cheap, functional windbreak and keep a little more heat going to the pot.
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Nov 16, 2014 18:38
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| # ? May 29, 2024 04:31 |
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Cpt.Wacky posted:I don't know what burner you're using but many of them have a pretty significant loss around the sides. Someone here has posted how they have a piece of stove pipe? wrapped around the burner which also functions as a windbreak. A brewer in my club has a few cinder blocks around the base of his Blichmann burner. I forgot to take a picture but it's something I'm going to look into since it should be a cheap, functional windbreak and keep a little more heat going to the pot. Reminds me of the stove attachment you use for woks to focus a gas stove burner to be a single hot jet instead of spread out. Not sure if that's as much of a deal with flat bottom pots.
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Nov 16, 2014 20:56
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