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Eugene Oregon posted:So I've been toying with the back-button focus on my T5i, and I don't think I'm doing it right. If I try to focus on something and press the button, it comes into focus...eventually. But no where near the speed things come into focus when I press the shutter button halfway down. What am I doing wrong? Not holding the button long enough? It engages the same mechanism so it's not going to be any longer. But, it won't fire the shutter if not locked when on the shutter button. Probably just psychological.
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# ? Nov 7, 2014 03:51 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 02:23 |
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The only button that matters on a camera is the delete button. Learn to use it.
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# ? Nov 7, 2014 04:48 |
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torgeaux posted:Not holding the button long enough? It engages the same mechanism so it's not going to be any longer. But, it won't fire the shutter if not locked when on the shutter button. Probably just psychological. Do I have to turn on the back-button with a setting somewhere?
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# ? Nov 7, 2014 16:20 |
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Eugene Oregon posted:Do I have to turn on the back-button with a setting somewhere? With a Rebel, yes, in custom functions - you change the function of the */shutter buttons. (AE lock on shutter/AF on *) With XXD/XD cameras, there's an AF-ON button that will start AF by default (and AF can still be on the shutter also)
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# ? Nov 7, 2014 16:25 |
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I have a little bit of money to burn, but I only want to burn it once until I progress from beginner to an intermediate or advanced level of familiarity with shooting DSLRs. I *was* planning on getting a Canon 7D Mk II, but am reconsidering after some of the discussion in the Canon thread. I have a way old Rebel EOS SLR (film, not digital; not sure of the specific model, it's probably around 10 years old) with the kit lens and a telephoto lens. To give an idea of the kinds of things I want to shoot: I don't particularly need sports/nature photography, but I do want to take photos of Tokyo and Osaka next time I visit, ranging from cityscapes on the ground or from SkyTree or Tokyo Tower to temples and some greenery (mostly just landscapes or monuments), time-lapse photos, and possibly decent video. Computer control is a plus, since I might want to create some kind of remote-controlled rig for whatever camera I get (probably using libgphoto2?). Are there cameras that are particularly strong for some of these? Upcoming models that might be suitable?
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 16:55 |
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:I have a little bit of money to burn, but I only want to burn it once until I progress from beginner to an intermediate or advanced level of familiarity with shooting DSLRs. I *was* planning on getting a Canon 7D Mk II, but am reconsidering after some of the discussion in the Canon thread. I have a way old Rebel EOS SLR (film, not digital; not sure of the specific model, it's probably around 10 years old) with the kit lens and a telephoto lens. If you're not interested in shooting stuff that moves, there's really no reason you need look to slrs at all. Go check out the mirrorless thread and find out what gives you pc control + top quality for still life and landscapes
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 17:04 |
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:I don't particularly need sports/nature photography, but I do want to take photos of Tokyo and Osaka next time I visit, ranging from cityscapes on the ground or from SkyTree or Tokyo Tower to temples and some greenery (mostly just landscapes or monuments), time-lapse photos, and possibly decent video. Computer control is a plus, since I might want to create some kind of remote-controlled rig for whatever camera I get (probably using libgphoto2?). High Speed Movement and Bad Lighting are the biggest reasons to get a pro DSLR. If you're going to get something for vacation, and this is only based on what YOU tell me right now and nothing about your future usage, you will probably want to focus on weight. You'll be traveling with the thing and you don't necessarily want to lug around bags of equipment with you on top of whatever you'll be being or traveling with throughout your journey. I have a D5300 with two lenses (35mm and 85mm) and that poo poo is already sort of a bitch to carry around.. it also draws a lot of attention for street photography. I find people just loving look directly at me when I'm trying to snap a picture. I prefer to remain anonymous when taking the shot. You will probably want to buy a Micro 4/3rds Camera with one or two lenses that'll suit your needs. One for a wide field of view and one to zoom with. So a wide prime like a 10mm if you can afford it or a 24mm for shooting when you can't afford space but want to shove as much of the scenery in as you can... and a zoom that'll go to like 70-200mm to grab that shot of something pretty cool far away. It's pretty pivotal you get a wide lens because things in Japan are packed together really close and you'll often find that even standing across the street from a building you want to take a picture of will still be too close for the average "cheap" kit lens. MY travel camera is the Panasonic LX7 which has a very wide field of view and goes down to 1.4f. It's not pocketable but it's roughly the size of 3 decks of playing cards so it's not like it takes up much room in my bag. 35mm / iPhone / LX7 (Excuse the image quality from the LX7, I didn't realize I had set it to be so dim) Jet Ready Go fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Nov 9, 2014 |
# ? Nov 9, 2014 18:11 |
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Doctor w-rw-rw- posted:I have a little bit of money to burn, but I only want to burn it once until I progress from beginner to an intermediate or advanced level of familiarity with shooting DSLRs. I *was* planning on getting a Canon 7D Mk II, but am reconsidering after some of the discussion in the Canon thread. I have a way old Rebel EOS SLR (film, not digital; not sure of the specific model, it's probably around 10 years old) with the kit lens and a telephoto lens. Go play with a Fujifilm XE2 or XT1 with 18-55 2.8-4 kit lens. It can be controlled with a smart phone app and is a dream for adapting old lenses. You can adapt you old canon glass to it. It's small enough for travel and isn't a bad set up for tricky light situations. Check out the mirror less thread.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 22:14 |
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I'm looking for a basic camera to learn on, a local shop has a used d7000 for $550 (body only) and I was figuring I could pick up an 18-55mm lense for $1-200. Anything wrong with that plan?
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 23:31 |
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Seems like you should be able to find a body with the kit for that price. If I was spending $200 on a lens I'd be looking at a used nifty fifty.
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# ? Nov 9, 2014 23:54 |
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I was leaning more towards the $100 side of things for the lense, this thing should work with the camera and seems decent.
NovemberMike fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Nov 10, 2014 |
# ? Nov 10, 2014 00:08 |
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NovemberMike posted:I was leaning more towards the $100 side of things for the lense, this thing should work with the camera and seems decent. I quite like that lens but for the love of god get a used one from KEH, it shouldn't be more than $60 and there are millions of them. Use the rest of the money to get used fiddy or 35 1.8. Like seriously the 18-55 kit lens is common enough that I got mine for cost-of-shipping (which ended up being eight dollars.)
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# ? Nov 10, 2014 00:20 |
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There's absolutely nothing wrong with the D7000, it's a good camera. I've been using mine with the 18-55 and I've reached its limitations but for figuring poo poo out, it's a good camera and a grand kit lens. I imagine you will hit the limits of the lens pretty quickly, but for getting going you've picked some decent kit for the price you're going to pay.
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# ? Nov 10, 2014 15:39 |
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Beowulfs_Ghost posted:What that does is it takes the auto focus operation off your shutter button and puts it onto a button on the back of your camera. Should be the second button in on the top right, with a * above it. Half pressing the shutter will no longer engage the autofocus (except in the auto modes, but you shouldn't be using those much any way) This is interesting, I'm still on my old D50 and I have it set up for BBF as I was suggested it for shooting planes overhead and got on with it... but if I put my camera into fully auto (usually when I'm passing it off to someone else to take my photo) I have to fly through the menus to disable it all again. Glad that this isn't an issue with modern cameras, as I think the Auto function truly should be for "The person with the camera in their hands has no knowledge or familiarity with the camera but should still be able to take something that is in focus and exposed to a decent enough degree". Another reason to upgrade from 2005 for me then! e: Actually, got a query too so lets put it here. I have the D50 at the moment, planning on the D7100 (or maybe 7200 if it's released) next year. I have a few lenses but my current go-to is the 35mm/1.8 I picked up recently and really like. I spotted a 50mm/1.8 here in the UK for around $100 which is cheaper than our KEH equivalent ($160). Is it worth me picking it up or is it too close to the 35 to bother with and I should concentrate on getting something like an 85mm prime instead? EL BROMANCE fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Nov 15, 2014 |
# ? Nov 15, 2014 20:17 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:This is interesting, I'm still on my old D50 and I have it set up for BBF as I was suggested it for shooting planes overhead and got on with it... but if I put my camera into fully auto (usually when I'm passing it off to someone else to take my photo) I have to fly through the menus to disable it all again. Glad that this isn't an issue with modern cameras, as I think the Auto function truly should be for "The person with the camera in their hands has no knowledge or familiarity with the camera but should still be able to take something that is in focus and exposed to a decent enough degree". Another reason to upgrade from 2005 for me then! The Nikon D7000 has the same problem where putting it on auto doesn't disable back button focus. When I was still trying it out, I actually used one of the two custom settings on the dial for "auto, but with shutter focus" specifically for handing to other people. Of course, I usually forgot to set my 17-50 to a reasonable focal length, so I would get pictures of me surrounded by a bunch of empty space
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# ? Nov 15, 2014 20:34 |
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That kind of sucks then, at least the menu should give the option of having auto modes override the back button setting. Good idea on the custom option, the D50 is before they started adding those so sadly not to my benefit.
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# ? Nov 15, 2014 20:41 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:Actually, got a query too so lets put it here. I have the D50 at the moment, planning on the D7100 (or maybe 7200 if it's released) next year. I have a few lenses but my current go-to is the 35mm/1.8 I picked up recently and really like. I spotted a 50mm/1.8 here in the UK for around $100 which is cheaper than our KEH equivalent ($160). Is it worth me picking it up or is it too close to the 35 to bother with and I should concentrate on getting something like an 85mm prime instead? Get the nifty-fifty. You won't regret it, certainly not at that price.
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# ? Nov 16, 2014 06:22 |
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ExecuDork posted:Get the nifty-fifty. You won't regret it, certainly not at that price. Also check out the 70-210 f/4, which is some kind of inexplicably great screw-drive lens. Not nearly as easy to find, though.
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# ? Nov 16, 2014 08:33 |
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The 35mm 1.8G is a great lens at a great price. It's quality is top notch and nothing else in the dx lineup even comes close to it in terms of value. The 50mm 1.8 AF-D is just ok in terms of quality. The focus speed isn't as fast as I'd like thanks to the screw drive motor (I have a D7000) and it will miss focus a lot at 1.8 on subjects that move. I'm not a big fan of the focal length either. 85mm or longer would be better for a posed portrait and 35mm or shorter is better for indoors/everyday type stuff. But for ~$100 it's not very expensive to get one to play with.
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# ? Nov 16, 2014 16:05 |
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Dren posted:The 35mm 1.8G is a great lens at a great price. It's quality is top notch and nothing else in the dx lineup even comes close to it in terms of value. The 50mm 1.8 AF-D is just ok in terms of quality. The focus speed isn't as fast as I'd like thanks to the screw drive motor (I have a D7000) and it will miss focus a lot at 1.8 on subjects that move. I'm not a big fan of the focal length either. 85mm or longer would be better for a posed portrait and 35mm or shorter is better for indoors/everyday type stuff. But for ~$100 it's not very expensive to get one to play with. This probably has more to do with the D7000 than it does with the lens. (Ask me about the D2x drive screw being so goddamn fast it's been known to damage the screw drive coupling on cheap lenses)
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# ? Nov 17, 2014 05:09 |
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I ended up grabbing it as I'm sure I could always sell it on for a similar price if I find I don't get on with it as well. I have a real basic Nikkor 70-300 f5-5.6 (from memory) but will keep my eye out for that 70-210 f4 if I see one at the right price. Thanks!
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# ? Nov 17, 2014 22:01 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:I ended up grabbing it as I'm sure I could always sell it on for a similar price if I find I don't get on with it as well. I have a real basic Nikkor 70-300 f5-5.6 (from memory) but will keep my eye out for that 70-210 f4 if I see one at the right price. Thanks! Pretty sure yours is a 4-5.6, unless they've made some weird one.
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# ? Nov 18, 2014 03:20 |
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Sorry, was a typo. Yeah 4-5.6. It seems pretty bottom barrel when it comes to bigger zooms, but hey it takes photos at least. I don't tend to use it much, but should probably experiment more.
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# ? Nov 18, 2014 19:11 |
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EL BROMANCE posted:Sorry, was a typo. Yeah 4-5.6. It seems pretty bottom barrel when it comes to bigger zooms, but hey it takes photos at least. I don't tend to use it much, but should probably experiment more. They're not great but they're not complete trash either.
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# ? Nov 19, 2014 06:04 |
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My first DSLR! Pentax K-5iis Body for $546.95 Comes with a SanDisk 64gb SDXC Ultra and a Pentax D-BG4 Battery Grip for free. Then I grabbed a Pentax smc DA 50mm f/1.8 Lens for $116.95 Did I do alright? It was a rather impulse buy but I feel like I got a good deal, now I will look for a 18-135 Weather Resistant on KEH. I have never used anything other than point and shoot cameras before so this should be fun!
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# ? Nov 19, 2014 13:37 |
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Modus Man posted:My first DSLR! Good job. Start shooting. Don't buy "protective" filters. Read Understanding Exposure. Don't use watermarks. Don't talk about fight club.
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# ? Nov 19, 2014 14:49 |
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torgeaux posted:Good job. Start shooting. Don't buy "protective" filters. Read Understanding Exposure. Don't use watermarks. Don't talk about fight club. All of this. The 18-135 is a great choice for your next lens, I'm betting you can pick one up from KEH for $300 or less. And get shooting.
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# ? Nov 19, 2014 18:58 |
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I hope this is the right place to ask. Black Friday is approaching, and there are two deals that I'm interested in for the mrs. She wants a camera to take pictures of kids and travel with. Being a loving husband and Walmart/Best Buy/Target will all have this dealy on a T5 with lens/bag/card for $450. Costco will have the Sony A5000 with an extra lens for $450 also. http://www.costco.com/Sony-A5000-Compact-System-Camera-2-Lens-Bundle.product.100137495.html I think that a T5 is probably overkill and overfeatured, but she sort of thinks that a DSLR is what she needs. I'm thinking that a mirrorless might be better for her, because its way smaller and easier to travel with (especially traveling with kids, picking them up, tying their shoes, feeding them, wiping boogers, mom stuff) What say you, babby's first camera thread? (although I'll probably end up getting the Canon anyway, because it's smart to gift one's spouse what she wants rather than what one thinks she should want)
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 01:04 |
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Don't buy a T5 unless your goal is to buy the worst camera
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 01:12 |
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Get her either a used RX100 or a newer revision of that same camera if you feel like dropping more cash. RX100 ticks the boxes of portable, does ok at not being blurry in indoors/night, nice image quality. It even has a flash you can tilt toward the ceiling to use as a bounce flash. DSLRs are dumb.
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 01:25 |
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Wild EEPROM posted:Don't buy a T5 unless your goal is to buy the worst camera This. If you really want to buy a lower end canon dslr, get an SL1 or a T5i. Or a T3i if you don't care about touchscreen magic. My wife is in love with her SL1 (and they just released a 24mm EF-S pancake lens) Or get whatever Nikon or Pentax someone else recommends. Edit: Also don't fall for kits that include that 75-300 lens. That thing is a plastic wrapped turd.
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 01:41 |
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Didn't the title of the Canon thread used to be "DON'T BUY THE T5"?
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 01:48 |
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Haha, yeah, Canon must make a killing on these. Put a pile of dogshit in an SLR body and sell it for a huge markup.
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 02:32 |
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Kenshin posted:Didn't the title of the Canon thread used to be "DON'T BUY THE T5"? Don't buy the T3, but pretty much yes.
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 06:30 |
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Get a not-quite-newest m43 body for peanuts, and either a wideish fast prime or a normal zoom.
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 16:30 |
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evil_bunnY posted:Get a not-quite-newest m43 body for peanuts, and either a wideish fast prime or a normal zoom. Yeah, moderately-old Panasonic bodies are so cheap they're pretty much giving them away in cereal boxes now.
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# ? Nov 22, 2014 21:37 |
Could someone give a quick rundown of what makes the T5 a bad choice? I don't know much of anything about camera's and my parents were asking my opinion on the T5 they were looking at and all I could come up with was that they could probably get something as good or better for cheaper. It's their first DSLR and they'd really be better served by a good point and shoot camera which is what I suggested but they've got their minds set on getting a DSLR and Dad seems to have pretty much settled on one of those T5 bundles. I could maybe talk them out of it, but I've got no ammunition to do it with.
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 04:38 |
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Sedgr posted:Could someone give a quick rundown of what makes the T5 a bad choice? I don't know much of anything about camera's and my parents were asking my opinion on the T5 they were looking at and all I could come up with was that they could probably get something as good or better for cheaper. Those models (T3, and now T5) are basically how Canon gets rid of old parts it seems. Old digic chips? Stick em in the walmart special Old AF Sensors? Stick em in the walmart special Old version of kit lens? Stick em in the walmart special Old non-touch LCDs? Stick em in the walmart special Then to add insult to injury, they cut features out like mirror lockup. The SL1 is literally 50$ more than a T5 on Amazon (Both with kit lens, but the better new STM version with the SL1) , and it's a better camera in just about every way. And if he's looking at one of those kits with the 75-300, seriously, like I said earlier, that lens is a turd. A total turd. Bad resolution, ridiculous CA, no IS. There's a reason they give them away in all those kits - it's worthless. http://www.the-digital-picture.com/...omp=5&APIComp=0
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 05:43 |
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For the sale price of that T5 you could instead get a new Sony A58, a new Olympus OM-D, a new Panasonic GX7, or a Nikon D5200. There are so many far better options there's literally no point to consider even thinking about buying a T5.
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 06:02 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 02:23 |
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Ebay is going to have a T5i with kit lens and US warranty for $500 on Wednesday night. And Canon's store has a bunch of good deals on refurbished cameras. Anyone have any experience with Canon refurbs?
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 14:42 |