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Chriskory posted:949 says they use the Iridium and they last twice as long, just don't gap a precious metal spark plug. Did you get a rename/title change recently? Sticking NGKs in the Cheby. I'll never loving learn. NEVER!
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Nov 11, 2014 03:19
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Did an oil change with mahle filter and Rotella T6 on the 325. I was impressed that the filer included both the filter o rings and the crush washer for the drain plug. Also put the blower motor in. This was missing when I got the car... Why is a good question. Quite a bit of a pain in the rear end, but i mainly wanted to do it for the defrost while winter hooning.
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Nov 12, 2014 00:20
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Viggen posted:Did you get a rename/title change recently? Champion copper plugs boy! (wait what year was it again?) TBI=Cheapest poo poo plugs Vortec=what ever fancy poo poo it calls for.
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Nov 12, 2014 01:03
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Champion copper plugs boy! (wait what year was it again?) Champion? Must be 1985. $0.89/ea or so. $0.79/ea on special! Votec wants plats. It is stumbly when it first starts up so its getting new plugs and wires - tomorrow. Appointments today basically killed the 8 hours I had available to (try to) work on it.
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Nov 12, 2014 03:59
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SEKCobra posted:Guys, what kinda interval should I expect for the timing belt and stuff? I think the previous owner said he had switched it recently, but it's been a while since and I'm not even sure about that, don't want my engine to die because of something simple like that. What color is your car? (i.e.: no one can answer this without make/model/year/engine size. But the answer is most likely: follow the published service schedule)
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Nov 12, 2014 17:05
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Motronic posted:What color is your car? It's green! It's a 1999 Toyota RAV4 3 door. I just assumed this would be a pretty universal thing.
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Nov 12, 2014 17:16
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SEKCobra posted:It's green! Every 90,000 miles or 6 years, whichever is sooner. No, it is not a universal thing.
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Nov 12, 2014 17:21
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Motronic posted:No, it is not a universal thing. This is correct. Red cars have longer timing belt intervals.
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Nov 12, 2014 23:25
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DropShadow posted:That's exactly why I haven't really ever been a fan of black wheels, you can't really see them. Here's a slightly better photo. These are the wheels I got. The problem was the photo - that looks great.
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Nov 12, 2014 23:56
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Viggen posted:Champion? Must be 1985. $0.89/ea or so. $0.79/ea on special! Vortec likes plats. Very happy with its new plugs. Will get wires replaced tomorrow- its 1/2 an hour until too-dark thirty.
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Nov 13, 2014 00:31
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Replaced that other rear hub on the car. Had to drown the old one in pb blaster to get it to separate from the brake drum. Also changed out the thermostat because the old one wasn't closing and the temp gauge would tank when the car was moving or the heater was running. For some reason the leak where the endtank attaches to the radiator core stopped happening after I changed the thermostat. Did you try to use the threaded hole in the drum to separate them? That's what it's for. Though, looking at it, that hole is pretty grody too.
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Nov 13, 2014 01:29
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Darchangel posted:Did you try to use the threaded hole in the drum to separate them? That's what it's for. Though, looking at it, that hole is pretty grody too. Adding to this, drums that have screws holding them on, like these ones, will have the same thread in the hole as the screw. This might tempt you to use the screw to get it off. Don't. If you didn't need to use a centrepunch to get those screws out and wrecked them, you'll wreck them trying to get them in that hole with a screwdriver. Just use a 12mm bolt you have lying around that fits. All of that being said, those screws are pretty superfluous, because the drums are being held onto the hub by the lug nuts, and the drums almost never just pop off when you take the wheel off, for reasons Spergin McBadposter has discovered. Also, S McB, you're not really living up to your name here, that post was pretty good.
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Nov 13, 2014 04:39
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Replaced the radiator on my 95 Cummins since it had a leak. Poured in water afterwards and watched it all piss out the front of the water pump. Replaced that the next day. No more issues and maybe my heat will work better!
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Nov 13, 2014 14:56
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Memento posted:Adding to this, drums that have screws holding them on, like these ones, will have the same thread in the hole as the screw. This might tempt you to use the screw to get it off. Don't. If you didn't need to use a centrepunch to get those screws out and wrecked them, you'll wreck them trying to get them in that hole with a screwdriver. Oh, hell no, don't use the bolts that hold on the disc/drum. Those things are made of only the finest cheese, and will strip/mangle if you look at them wrong. They're usually too short to use for popping off the drum anyway. I have no idea why they make those things so soft. e: and yeah, they're pretty much just there to hold the disc/drum on during assembly.
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Nov 13, 2014 21:08
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Stuck pizza boxes in front of half of the radiator so I could get heat last night. Got a CEL today. I was half expecting it, and was fully expecting the code: Thermostat housing sits behind the exhaust manifold heat shield. The exhaust faces the firewall.  Tried to remove the cover, just to see what I'd be facing. Turns out it was broken around the 1 bolt that attaches it to the manifold (explains the exhaust rattle the car has had since I got it, and the other 2 that held it came out like butter (they went into the valve cover or head, didn't pay enough attention).Thermostat doesn't look too bad to get to as long as you have a set of deep sockets (which I do). It's right next to the water pump (which sits at the bottom of the engine), and apparently there's a convenient block drain plug next to it. When I got the car, I did a drain/fill the best I could of the DexCool (removed lower radiator hose). Going to drain everything and put all new coolant in. Still going to be (certified, not "compatible" DexCool) since I don't feel like flushing the system. Gonna have to wait until next week though. General_Failure posted:just stick an auto resetting breaker in there instead and enjoy gaining and losing power steering at random intervals. Safe. I actually got the recall performed a couple of days later (which consists of replacing the power steering assist motor). Been working fine since then, and the dealer got it done in less than 45 minutes. They said up to 2 hours, depending how difficult the steering column bolts would be to remove. Service advisor said they came out super easy, but that's probably because I had the ignition switch recall done a few months ago (which also requires dropping the column). Top notch marks for the dealer that handled it. They had a direct # to service instead of a call center (just about every dealer here has a call center); when I mentioned I needed the recall done, the guy said "I got 38 o dem motors sittin right here, when didja wanna get it done? Tomorrow?". Dropped it off, walked down the street to get lunch (they even offered to drive me, then pick me up - I chose to walk to burn some calories), walked back, car was just being pulled out of service. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Nov 13, 2014 |
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Nov 13, 2014 23:00
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Baram posted:Replaced the radiator on my 95 Cummins since it had a leak. Poured in water afterwards and watched it all piss out the front of the water pump. Replaced that the next day. No more issues and maybe my heat will work better! You probably already know this but make sure you've fixed the KDP problem, unless you like bits of steel getting masticated by your timing gearset. That page says to buy a kit, but it's literally a loving metal tab (doesn't even have to be that thick - 1/8 plate would be fine, or probably much thinner) and a longer than stock bolt for a position that's already filled. Pull half the poo poo off the front of the block, remove stock bolt, add tab and bolt that's longer by the thickness of the tab, reassemble, done. I'd probably make my own. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Nov 14, 2014 |
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Nov 14, 2014 01:15
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Dug out the filthy factory wheels to prepare them for the winter season:  Stripped them down and gave them a thorough cleaning:  Old rubber vs New:  Charcoal Gray and Aluminum Metalflake clear coat:  I didn't have any index cards on hand, but I do have stacks upon stacks of notepads from various parts distributors, and those work just as well, IMO:   It took almost 2 cans worth to get adequate coverage of the gray on all four wheels. I'm letting it set overnight to finish up tomorrow, more to come...
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Nov 16, 2014 05:18
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Root Bear posted:
I want to see what that looks like once it's dried and mounted on the car, kinda curious what the finish will look like with the metalizer. I haven't been a huge fan of just straight black plastidip on wheels. As for what I actually did to my car, confirmed it's definitely the alternator producing the whine. Unless that shifty powersteering pump can make noise while stationary  Found a surprisingly expensive ($60 for a belt? drat) short accessory belt to isolate the two accessories to confirm without a doubt it's one or the other  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6b9bDHGlWA
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Nov 17, 2014 02:05
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It does sound like pooched alternator bearings. Stick new bearings in there, or grab a junkyard alt?
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Nov 17, 2014 02:11
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Removed the boost gauge off the A pillar, the GReddy boost controller is faster to report and hidden easier. Tidied up the wiring under the dash and installed the control switch for my temp monitors. Washed it and cleaned all the soot and poo stain off the rear bumper. This week: new wheels and tyres.
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Nov 17, 2014 02:35
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Raluek posted:It does sound like pooched alternator bearings. Stick new bearings in there, or grab a junkyard alt? That's the plan, have to call around and figure out what the pricing is like. New costs $300+ so that's a bit rich for my blood at the moment, the bearings are closer to $40 so I might just do that.
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Nov 17, 2014 05:08
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some texas redneck posted:Stuck pizza boxes in front of half of the radiator so I could get heat last night. Got a CEL today. I was half expecting it, and was fully expecting the code: So last night, the gauge spiked up to about 2/3 for a moment, then shortly after, it was resting where it normally sits (just a hair below halfway, which is about 190F). I suspect the CEL will probably go away on its own if it keeps maintaining proper temp. It got my attention in a hurry, the heater went from "meh" to  in about 10 secondsI don't trust the thermostat one bit though. It stuck partly open for several days, then closed completely (or close to) for a few minutes, now seems to act "normal"ish. It's still gonna have to wait until my next day off. This'll also give me a chance to do a complete cooling system drain/fill. I was only able to get a bit over half of the Dexshit out when I got the car, by disconnecting the lower radiator hose. There's a convenient block drain plug next to the water pump (which sits at the bottom of the engine).
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Nov 17, 2014 08:15
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That reminds me that I need to replace my car's coolant before winter proper, and the PO cheaped out and bought a rad without a drain to save like £0.50. Pulling the lower rad hose is usually a PITA on these cars.
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Nov 17, 2014 09:53
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Changed the oil in the Miata, first time. Read about the plastic bag for the filter, thought I had spun it enough off for all the oil to drain. Wrong - at least another cup came out once I got it off. On the plus side it was only $35 for 5 quarts of full synthetic and a Bosch filter right now. Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Nov 17, 2014 20:21
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Finally got off the link between the pitman arms so now I can drop the oil pan... ...and it turns out there's another thin plate like thing between it and the engine block with its own RTV gasket.  Looks like the area where my leak was is detached already so chances are pretty good that that's what was causing the problem. Of course I've got to remove something else to get this loving thing off. Looks like the intake for the oil pump? Also had to blow an entire fresh can of brake cleaner on the inside of the oil pan and it's still not clean. gently caress gently caress gently caress
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Nov 17, 2014 23:51
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Start by dumping a quart of gasoline in the oil pan and using a rag and a brush to work on various areas while keeping the rest saturated with gas. Gas is way better at cutting crud without evaporating too quickly to be of much use. Once you've got the really gross poo poo all dissolved, pull the drain plug out of the pan again and flush most of the remainder into a bucket with a bit more gas. THEN get the brakleen out. Gas is $3.5/gallon and doesn't evaporate quickly, brakleen is $4 for a single can and goes away in a hurry. It does take gas residue and whatever is left behind by the gas off easily though. I usually keep a 5 gallon pail full of nasty gas around as a degreaser/parts cleaner. Works amazingly well and is super cheap compared to the alternatives. Wear gasoline resistant gloves, though. And you'll want a lid that seals well. For best bonding of the RTV, try sticking with a brakleen that only contains heptane, acetone, and/or limonene. Most other chemicals used in brakleen will leave a very slight oily residue behind that is acceptable for uses not involving paint, welding, or RTV, but will gently caress up your day if you try to use them before those steps.
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Nov 17, 2014 23:56
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Thank you, I will remember that!
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Nov 18, 2014 04:02
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Just ordered a replacement climate control panel and blower motor for my 2000 Wrangler from Rockauto. Let's hope this resolves the issues of the fan only running with the a/c compressor also running and the melty knobs; going to have to do some harness-hacking when I swap them, there's been some serious heat damage to the factory connectors.
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Nov 18, 2014 04:52
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Cheby blower motor has some detritus innit. Ordered Chilton. I paid $2 for it to supplement the $4 Haynes that was completely worthless (except maybe for the basic electrical diagrams). Hope it has diagrams of the innards- I don't feel like breaking 17 year old plastic bits.
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Nov 18, 2014 05:54
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jammyozzy posted:That reminds me that I need to replace my car's coolant before winter proper, and the PO cheaped out and bought a rad without a drain to save like £0.50. Pulling the lower rad hose is usually a PITA on these cars. I actually do have a factory petcock on mine, but it flows so slowly that it's easier to just remove the hose. Makes more of a mess, but gets the job done a lot quicker. I also found the block drain plug as well, which will make a hell of a mess unless I can get my hand on a set of ramps (any DFW goons have a set I can borrow next week? or at least a decent floor jack so I don't have to use the stock emergency jack to get it onto stands?). Oddly, it started running at normal temps again on Sunday. Well, close to normal. The gauge is sitting closer to 1/2 than 1/4, sits there the entire time I'm driving, and the check engine light went off on its own (the code was for thermostat performance). OBD2 data shows it's running around 180-185; it has a 180 degree thermostat. No boxes blocking the radiator anymore; my first clue was on my last delivery on Sunday night when I heard the cooling fan kick on. Gauge had spiked to about 2/3, then dropped pretty quickly to normal. Still trust the thermostat about as much as I can toss a Land Rover. It gets changed on my next day off. I have the money now for either the coolant or the thermostat; the coolant in it now was 50% replaced with new coolant when I got the car, the rest is the original DexShit, so both are getting done.
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Nov 18, 2014 10:30
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some texas redneck posted:I actually do have a factory petcock on mine, but it flows so slowly that it's easier to just remove the hose. Makes more of a mess, but gets the job done a lot quicker. I also found the block drain plug as well, which will make a hell of a mess unless I can get my hand on a set of ramps (any DFW goons have a set I can borrow next week? or at least a decent floor jack so I don't have to use the stock emergency jack to get it onto stands?).. I've got a set (had 'em since I was 17!) you can borrow/use, but I'm way over in Euless.
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Nov 18, 2014 16:29
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My car (08 Fit) has been taking longer to start as it has been getting colder. It didn't do this last year and I suspected that the battery was nearing it's end so I decided to be proactive and replace it. 151r batteries are relatively expensive and I had read that 51r batteries can be stuffed in a Fit with a little work. So a trip to Costco and $70 later I got to work. Install procedure: 1) remove old battery 2) remove (lift out) plastic battery tray insert thing 3) insert new battery 4) secure with stock battery tie-down 5) add battery terminal shims and attach cables That grueling (effortless, 5 minute) process gained me 170 CCA and saved me $30-40. Also, the date code for the old battery was 2006. RIP in peace little glorified lawn mower battery. You did good.
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Nov 18, 2014 17:25
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Put my 406 in for the MOT test today, knowing it would fail in probably lots of things. It failed on: Driver's side sill and floor being rotten (which I knew, but it's a bit more extensive than I thought) Front and rear brake lines being a bit hosed. One of the rear seatbelt sockets not working. A broken numberplate light. However, as it's going to cost more than £700 to fix all that (plus the many, many advisories) I'm afraid that I have to get rid of it. Sad day.
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Nov 18, 2014 20:42
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Sad times, despite all its faults my shitbox 306 has been remarkably good about passing MOTs, last time around it was only £180 to have all the work it needed done. I did have to ask the mechanic "which one?" when I saw he'd put down oil leak as an advisory. 
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Nov 18, 2014 20:53
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Don't let him fix that, that's why it hasn't rusted yet!
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Nov 18, 2014 20:57
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Looks like it's MOT season for lots of us. I just put my p38 in today after putting a new gearbox into it. Fortunately it passed with only a wiper blade mentioned. I've got to put my 90 in soon too. I suspect that will want some more welding this time round.
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Nov 18, 2014 22:02
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Put the Integrale in storage for winter. Currently looking for a winter beater
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Nov 19, 2014 01:02
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Colonel K posted:Looks like it's MOT season for lots of us. I just put my p38 in today after putting a new gearbox into it. Fortunately it passed with only a wiper blade mentioned. You need to post some photos of the 90. I love defenders.
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Nov 19, 2014 03:25
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Crossposted from horrible mechanical failures: I probably should have replaced these sooner...
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Nov 19, 2014 03:35
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Colonel K posted:Looks like it's MOT season for lots of us. Both my registration and state inspection (emissions + safety) are due by the end of the year. I need 2 tires before then. And have no idea how I'm going to pay for them at the moment.
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Nov 19, 2014 18:00
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