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 http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Eibach-Pro-Kit-Lowering-Springs-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-Sedan-2004-2007 So these? I'll have to see if I can find them in Australia and measure my car to actually figure out how much I can lower it to meet our laws (>=100mm)
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Nov 22, 2014 06:59
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| # ? May 26, 2024 22:48 |
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Saucy I've been looking at doing my struts/spring as well and from what I've found on here and other places MCA reds for 2k AUD are the best thing going.
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Nov 22, 2014 07:07
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I don't particularly want to spend that much, I'm not going to the track or anything. E: You're the Brisbane guy right? I do go on runs through Beechmont/Springbrook though not regularly, I live near Capalaba, it's an hour+ drive just to get there. Also cops are there because theres a group of people in Silvias who skid through there every nigh underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Nov 22, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 07:30
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I don't particularly want to spend that much, I'm not going to the track or anything. Yeah I moved up here at the start of the year. I'll been keen to do some driving next year once my new job starts and I have some money to pour into the car. Shame about the kids in Silvias, but I guess they are going to do it somewhere.
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Nov 22, 2014 07:37
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The konis have nothing to do with your ride height, they are just a damper replacement, and actually use the stock struts. You drill a hole in the bottom of your shock, drain the oil,, cut off the top, pull the damper out, and then slide the koni in and bolt it down through the hole in the bottom. Didn't realize you were in australia though. There might be a place that keeps those around, or there might be another option I don't know about or wouldn't consider because it's not readily available here. Shouldn't be hard to find a decent set of struts there though and MCA would be a good place to ask first.
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Nov 22, 2014 07:41
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jamal posted:The konis have nothing to do with your ride height, they are just a damper replacement, and actually use the stock struts. You drill a hole in the bottom of your shock, drain the oil,, cut off the top, pull the damper out, and then slide the koni in and bolt it down through the hole in the bottom. The springs say they lower the car 30mm, which I wouldnt mind doing. The mechanic in Capalaba I mentioned races a hillclimb 2 door sti on stock shocks and king springs and wins pretty much everything on them, I talked to him about it and really I don't think I need coilovers for how I drive. I don't track it and while I do do mountain runs, I'm nowhere near the point where spending a tonne on coilovers would make me faster, and even then then, I'm not there racing people, I'm there enjoying hard drive.
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Nov 22, 2014 08:16
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Saga posted:Get the BRZ and a set of cheap tire rack winter wheels/tyres for if and when it snows. Lincoln Drive is where it's at for white-knuckled terror due to people failing to understand "lanes." Two people blasted through the same intersection I was at this morning (the three-way-stop on Allen Lane near the High Point). The second one came within two feet of making me an ex-Impreza Wagon owner.
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Nov 22, 2014 19:31
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Hey I am not an AI regular, but does this look ok? http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/ctd/4768558035.html Brought it to a mechanic to have inspected before buying of course. But the price is decent (as far as I can tell) and overall it's in great shape. edit: never mind, head gaskets leaking and CV joints shot, nooope The Rat fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Nov 22, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 20:46
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are Subarus really as picky about their coolant as nasioc says? And does that conditioning stuff actually matter? It sounds kind of like BMW $200 oil change BS. No, I happily run the pre-mixed prestone (blue cap) rather than OEM coolant. Yes, I always run that "conditioning stuff" from either the dealer or SGP. It's actually Radweld with a Subaru sticker over top. It's there to mitigate/remove headgasket issues.
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Nov 23, 2014 14:58
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GrantC posted:No, I happily run the pre-mixed prestone (blue cap) rather than OEM coolant. FYI, it's available on Amazon with Prime shipping too, $7.25. Usually it's not too expensive from SGP but shipping makes it pricey.
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Nov 23, 2014 15:33
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I've replaced the headgaskets with MLS ones, so I should be able to just run whatever coolant I want and don't need to worry about the conditioner, right?
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Nov 23, 2014 15:41
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door Door door posted:I've replaced the headgaskets with MLS ones, so I should be able to just run whatever coolant I want and don't need to worry about the conditioner, right? Yes. I run coolant. It is green. I think the coolant additives are band aids and if your poo poo leaks just do the headgaskets.
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Nov 23, 2014 20:20
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What's the over/under on replacement cost for one CV boot? Was changing the oil and found grease, so investigated further and found the cv boot neatly split on the passenger side. 
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Nov 24, 2014 03:57
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Simkin posted:What's the over/under on replacement cost for one CV boot? Was changing the oil and found grease, so investigated further and found the cv boot neatly split on the passenger side. 60 + labor for a whole axle off rock auto vs just doing the boot. It's pretty easy to DIY either a boot or axle swap.
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Nov 24, 2014 15:14
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Slow is Fast posted:Yes. Cool, thanks.
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Nov 24, 2014 20:46
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Slow is Fast posted:60 + labor for a whole axle off rock auto vs just doing the boot. I replaced one failing axle (torn boot, found out when one joint started binding on the freeway - fun times!) with an MWE axle, and replaced another axle as soon as I found the torn boot with another MWE. But since then I've been changing boots and not axles on other Subarus in the fleet. If the boot still has grease in it and the joint looks good, clean it up and put a new boot on it. The cheaper rebuild axles are TERRIBLE. Much better off with a boot kit on an OEM axle.
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Nov 24, 2014 21:26
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jailbait#3 posted:I replaced one failing axle (torn boot, found out when one joint started binding on the freeway - fun times!) with an MWE axle, and replaced another axle as soon as I found the torn boot with another MWE. But since then I've been changing boots and not axles on other Subarus in the fleet. If the boot still has grease in it and the joint looks good, clean it up and put a new boot on it. The cheaper rebuild axles are TERRIBLE. Much better off with a boot kit on an OEM axle. Agree with this after doing both. If/when a rebuild fails I have the oem on on hand to swap back in. The boot repair is not hard at all.
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Nov 24, 2014 21:39
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door Door door posted:I've replaced the headgaskets with MLS ones, so I should be able to just run whatever coolant I want and don't need to worry about the conditioner, right? Subaru FSM specs the coolant conditioner for both the N/A & Turbo cars (which come stock with MLS headgaskets). Make your own decision based on that, since it looks (to me) like you were just waiting for someone to tell you it's okay to skip it.
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Nov 24, 2014 22:18
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I think the conditioner is dumb and pointless. It is just stopleak and there's no reason for it in a properly functioning cooling system. IMO, they put that stuff out to delay and avoid owning up to the lovely headgaskets that were in a lot of cars. If you had old headgaskets with a lot of miles I guess it wouldn't hurt but with the MLS ones don't bother. My recommendation is to use the OEM coolant, or whatever, and change it every couple of years. Personally I have some random green stuff mixed 60/40 for winter, and was too lazy to add more water for the summer (ideal for really cold is about 65% coolant, ideal for really hot is mostly water).
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Nov 24, 2014 22:47
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Simkin posted:What's the over/under on replacement cost for one CV boot? Was changing the oil and found grease, so investigated further and found the cv boot neatly split on the passenger side. Unless im an idiot and missed it, some cv outers are not rebuildable., so you may need the inner as well if your doing the outer as its almost a sure bet it will tear when your removing it. My 05 sti is a prime example. And hindsight being what it is, may as well replace the axle, as they are cheap if you dont need them next day, and the axle will wait and emploide when its most inconvenient. (Like a week before a track day while autoxing)
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Nov 24, 2014 23:59
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It appears we somehow managed to pick up a JUN 2.2 stroker kit which we are about to add a 60tho overbore to. This might be a fun little engine.
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Nov 25, 2014 00:29
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Cat Terrist posted:It appears we somehow managed to pick up a JUN 2.2 stroker kit which we are about to add a 60tho overbore to. I am pretty excited about anything that has a 2.2L displacement, not gonna lie. Don't you guys get a 2.5L OEM engine anyway?
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Nov 25, 2014 00:31
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Yeeeep. But then again why waste the opportunity to stick a big bang EJ20 in say a 1999 Forester?
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Nov 25, 2014 00:36
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Oh, I'm not speaking ill of your choice. As far as I'm concerned you want to do whatever it takes to get the angriest snarliest tractor motor you can.
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Nov 25, 2014 00:38
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We used to 2.2 strokers pretty often for guys who needed their 2.0 rebuilt and wanted something a little extra, especially when the bearings were trashed and the crank and rods probably needed replacement anyway. Just needs a 2.5 crank plus pistons with the wrist pin 2mm higher (lot of piston mfgs carry them). They all turned out really well and you definitely notice the difference driving one vs a 2.0 wrx. The other interesting displacement option is the destroked long rod engine. So a 2.5 with a 2.0 crank, and you can add 4mm to the rod length which makes an appreciable change in piston acceleration. The idea is to rev to 9-10k. Buuuut, then everything else has to spin that fast so it might be more trouble than it's worth. I think more displacement is the better way to go in most cases.
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Nov 25, 2014 00:41
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The full story - KB blew the motor up on the WRC STI (Looks like oil pump failed) and thence is now building a very full house PWRC replacement. He got hold of a seriously cheap bottom end of the correct vintage (200 bucks) that was from a car that was wrecked in the Japan Tsunami a few years ago. Added bonus - it came from a town called Fukushima so no one wanted it. Once the mud and gunk was washed out (and our geiger counter confirmed there was no chance of Godzilla) it turned out to have been a really good buy, the engine was up to the point it got waterlogged in great condition and it cleaned out perfectly. So KB was happy to get the motor reassembled which he and father Vogon was starting on.... until they saw "JUN" stamped on the crank. At which point further investigation revealed a bunch more JUN stuff and much cursing as it's not PWRC legal. But also grins in the realization it is either worth a fair bit to someone else who wants a stroker kit or a good motor to stick in one of the other Subarus we have.
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Nov 25, 2014 01:15
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It's not a bad idea to dis-assmeble and de-burr oil pump parts. There's something about newer ones where I've heard of the bypass sticking a number of times.
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Nov 25, 2014 01:48
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rotard posted:Unless im an idiot and missed it, some cv outers are not rebuildable., so you may need the inner as well if your doing the outer as its almost a sure bet it will tear when your removing it. My 05 sti is a prime example. And hindsight being what it is, may as well replace the axle, as they are cheap if you dont need them next day, and the axle will wait and emploide when its most inconvenient. (Like a week before a track day while autoxing) Yeah, I'm going to end up having the whole drat axle replaced, as a garage I spoke to mentioned that with the time costs to replace the boot versus the whole part cost, it's pretty much a wash. I'd do the work myself, but I have no garage anymore, and live in an area that's pretty much devoid of any flat (non-sloping) surface that I can perform work on. I may end up just ordering a spare one for the other side and preventatively swapping that out over Christmas when I have access to shop space and a nice, dry, concrete pad.
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Nov 25, 2014 03:55
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Yeah, replacing the axle is pretty simple where replacing boots is messy and kind of a pain in the rear end. There's a big variety in quality out there though, so you could get one that starts shuddering and clicking after not too long or it could last for years. Both my front axles failed catastrophically within a few months (partially my fault...) and I replaced them with $80 axles from napa that have been good ever since.
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Nov 25, 2014 04:16
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So this might be more of a 'tell me why I'm a dumbass' but I replaced my dedicated summer/winter tire setup with a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3s that promised great all-season support. I took my 09 WRX out on slushy roads here in Chicago, IL (first real snow bullshit of season) and noticed I was engaging ABS every 5 minutes and played slip-and-slide. I did a little more panic internet reading and found out the A/S3s should have been billed as 3 season tires and am now cursing myself for not being more thorough. Needless to say, am I hosed and need to switch out to dedicated winters ASAP? I saw some other guy in Michigan running them all winter and  I still feel like a fuckin' idiot out a couple hundred of bucks and with the possibility of having an uncontrollable missile come slush and snow.
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Nov 25, 2014 22:57
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adnam posted:So this might be more of a 'tell me why I'm a dumbass' but I replaced my dedicated summer/winter tire setup with a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3s that promised great all-season support. I took my 09 WRX out on slushy roads here in Chicago, IL (first real snow bullshit of season) and noticed I was engaging ABS every 5 minutes and played slip-and-slide. I did a little more panic internet reading and found out the A/S3s should have been billed as 3 season tires and am now cursing myself for not being more thorough. If you're wanting to be responsible yeah get winters but honestly unles you get TONS of snow I would just be careful and drive slower than you would with dedicated winters and have fun slipping around.
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Nov 25, 2014 22:59
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The pilot sport AS3 are absolutely a 3 season tire. They are good for summer, they are good for wet, and they are good for low temps. They are not good for anything that requires the tread to clear anything but liquid water. So, they are fine for driving around on a 20 degree F day when they aren't calling for any precipitation or any precip melts instantly in contact with road salt. They might be able to get you home in a light dusting of snow. Slush and actual snow puts them as just as bad as a summer tire. They have a great compound, amazing really. Grips like mad in the hot temps and doesn't get hard in the low temps. The tread design though is a summer tread design. It just isn't going to work with any condition that requires the tread to clear out non-liquids to get to the road surface. I would just order a set of steelies mounted with the cheapest winter you can find on tirerack. Looks like you can get a set of Firestone Winterforce mounted on 16" steelies for about $730. That's probably just slightly more than your deductible.
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Nov 25, 2014 23:23
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bull3964 posted:The pilot sport AS3 are absolutely a 3 season tire. They are good for summer, they are good for wet, and they are good for low temps. They are not good for anything that requires the tread to clear anything but liquid water. That's the conclusion I came to, but my checking account wanted to disagree so badly. Considering my job requires me to be up at all hours and travel even when everybody else gets to be asleep (fuckers), looks like I'm going to dig out some cash for steelies + winters. Lesson to everybody else, do better goddamn research than me.
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Nov 25, 2014 23:48
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On the plus side, you're going to have a bitching setup for the next few years and you won't have to be quite as quick to changeover to the winters in the fall. Pilot Sport AS3s are going to be replacing the stock Dunlops on my WRX when it comes time (probably later this upcoming summer). They'll stick better than the stock summer tires and I'll probably be able to go most of November and maybe into December without having to change them out.
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Nov 26, 2014 00:13
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Well, I got in my parking lot donuts for this year. I'm done with snow now, so let's fast foward to summer.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:20
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I'll gladly trade. I'm in nothing but shorts and I'm melting.
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Nov 27, 2014 02:50
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adnam posted:That's the conclusion I came to, but my checking account wanted to disagree so badly. Chicago needs winters if you don't have the option of staying home on bad days. Troll the classifieds on NASIOC often, you can usually score a set for cheap if you can wait. It's a lot easier if you start looking during the summer though.
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Nov 27, 2014 05:15
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Can anyone that has driven both an h6 and turboed outback/legacy give a comparison of how they drive? If everything goes well I will be buying a new used car in the next year, and I'm interested in something with a bit more pep than the 2.5. I'm leaning towards the turbo because I live at 5000 feet, but I haven't had a chance to drive either.
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Nov 29, 2014 21:52
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The fasteners connecting one side of my rear sway bar to the endlink worked themselves off - what size nut and bolt do I need? Any washers? This is for stock endlinks and a Whiteline adjustable bar - I'm wondering if I should move to better endlinks while I'm at it.
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Nov 30, 2014 02:11
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Uh, '07 STI owner checking in with bad compression on cylinder 4. Local Subaru specialists want to charge $9k for a rebuild with stronger parts but I don't have the cash reserves (had a kid 2 months ago and we're cutting back everywhere to afford expensive-rear end SF Bay childcare). Has anyone here gone through this and, if so, do you have any recommendations for what to do or any idea roughly what the car's worth now as a parts car? Everything else is in pretty good shape (wheels have some curb rash, exterior plastics have some fading but the interior is immaculate).
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Nov 30, 2014 04:21
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