|
Selling a Contax T2 in the Dorkroom Buy/Sell thread. The Mercedes state car of 35mm P+S http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=433859948
|
#
?
Aug 22, 2014 04:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 13:29 |
|
|
My friends drinking. Processed with an amazing filter I found.  
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 00:03
|
|
|
Took my Rollei 35 SE and loaded it up with some Ilford XP2 on a trip. I know it's not technically a point and shoot since you have to focus and have manual settings but gently caress you. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Denmark by Cacator, on Flickr  Copenhagen by Cacator, on Flickr  Berliner Dom, Spree by Cacator, on Flickr  Bauhaus Archiv, Berlin by Cacator, on Flickr  Markthal, Rotterdam by Cacator, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2014 03:52
|
|
|
Getting caught up on old scans. I was given a Lomo LC-A and took it out on one of my motorbike trips when I was living in rural Japan: Look at how laughably soft those corners are. Doesn't seem to do radically better when stopped down. I still kinda like it though (used to have an OG Russian one when I was 19-20), think I'll keep it around and run the occasional roll through it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2014 18:20
|
|
|
So the Olympus XA lives up to the hype, you don't even need to focus and it still comes out pretty sharp.   I don't usually do "dude walking past wall" but the colours work.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 08:15
|
|
|
deaders posted:So the Olympus XA lives up to the hype, you don't even need to focus and it still comes out pretty sharp. Yes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2014 15:33
|
|
|
deaders posted:So the Olympus XA lives up to the hype, you don't even need to focus and it still comes out pretty sharp. Absolutely, mine has definitely earned a place in my travel kit. GS645 folder with a normal-ish Planar, plus the XA for wide - very light, very small, and I get a shitload of versatility out of it in terms of available FoV and multiple films, meters, etc. It's also pretty wicked in low light, especially since mine meters at 1600.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 03:00
|
|
|
The camera I brought on vacation broke, so I picked up a Leica Z2X point and shoot at the Adorama in New York City to get me through the rest of my trip. The flash on it works really well, which is great because f/4 at widest zoom is just not fast enough. The lens is great though, and now I want a Minilux. img297 img276
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 03:22
|
|
|
  Nobody drinking, sorry. Just some hosed up scans.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2014 15:13
|
|
|
That red line is your calibration area at the top of the scanner glass being filthy
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2014 18:07
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:That red line is your calibration area at the top of the scanner glass being filthy Yeah, I know. Need to go back and rescan those.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2014 18:23
|
|
|
Watch my friends drink and buy brisket. Leica Z2X and Tri-X. img523 img524 img519 img508
mulls fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jan 25, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2015 04:57
|
|
|
Picked up a Yashica T4 Super for $25 at the local camera store. Excited to load this baby up with some film and try out the wonderful world of point-and-shoot. (Or worst case sell it online for some good money).
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2015 00:04
|
|
|
I found my GF's Canonet 28 last weekend while tidying up. She let me borrow it, pre-loaded with a roll of mystery film - she last used it years ago and has no idea what's in there. This thing is fun, and (hilariously) seems to play nice with my flash.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2015 00:17
|
|
|
I realized 35mm point and shoots mostly suck unless they have a manual ISO override
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2015 04:39
|
|
|
Chill Callahan posted:I realized 35mm point and shoots mostly suck unless they have a manual ISO override You can always hack the DX codes on the film canister
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2015 05:25
|
|
|
BANME.sh posted:You can always hack the DX codes on the film canister You can turn 800 to 400 and 200 to 100 easily with a sharpie but beyond that it's a pain in the rear end. I guess you can also mangle the DX coding and a lot of cameras will just interpret that as ISO 100 but I've never tried that. Chill Callahan fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Jan 31, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2015 05:27
|
|
|
You can also compensate in development depending on if you think the camera over or under exposed.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2015 14:50
|
|
|
Shellman posted:Picked up a Yashica T4 Super for $25 at the local camera store. Excited to load this baby up with some film and try out the wonderful world of point-and-shoot. (Or worst case sell it online for some good money). Whoa! That's a great deal.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 01:52
|
|
|
Chill Callahan posted:I realized 35mm point and shoots mostly suck unless they have a manual ISO override Why?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 20:10
|
|
|
My Leica Z2X is really heavily center-weighted, so you can always just point it at whatever you want to land on Zone V and then lock and recompose. The big problem is that focus and exposure lock are the same button, so hopefully your Zone V thing is the same distance as your subject.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 20:27
|
|
|
I've only owned a Stylus Epic and a couple lesser P&Ss but I've notice they have a tendency to underexpose. On top of that, I usually use expired Gold or other cheap film in P&Ss and they need to be overexposed a stop or two. In addition, I'd like the ability to underexpose/push something like Tri-X or HP5+ cause those films lend themselves well to P&Ss, in my opinion.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 21:56
|
|
|
So you did dumb poo poo and got dumb results, got it
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 22:39
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:So you did dumb poo poo and got dumb results, got it Go on...
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2015 22:56
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:So you did dumb poo poo and got dumb results, got it Chill Callahan posted:Go on... Chill Callahan posted:I've only owned a Stylus Epic and a couple lesser P&Ss but I've notice they have a tendency to underexpose. On top of that, I usually use expired Gold or other cheap film in P&Ss and they need to be overexposed a stop or two. In addition, I'd like the ability to underexpose/push something like Tri-X or HP5+ cause those films lend themselves well to P&Ss, in my opinion.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 01:58
|
|
|
You use bad cameras with expired bad film and you're surprised you got bad results.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:01
|
|
|
in my experiences kodak gold is consistently the worst film ever. if you have to go bargain basement just go superia
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:05
|
|
|
First of all if you use 60 seconds of work you can hack your cartridge to be perfectly usable with your intended film push/pull. I did and it works well. You can even use that cartridge and bulk film so you'd only have to do it once! Here's how: http://www.diyphotography.net/oldschool-hacking-dx-film-annotations/ Secondly, as a MF shooter I love my 35mm P&S! They're a simple, speedy and frictionless way to document life without having to get out my heavy and slower MF cameras. They're also very light and cheap as gently caress. Just toss it in your jacket/bag/glove compartment. If you're using them for anything else, e.g. serious work, I don't know what to tell you. Maybe shoot digital?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:09
|
|
|
Awkward Davies posted:You use bad cameras with expired bad film and you're surprised you got bad results. Kodak Gold scanned with the Pakon 135+ doesn't look that bad. You just need to overexpose it a stop or two. Here's a few of mine: http://i.imgur.com/q96oB8m.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rRJtc6F.jpg There's also plenty in the Facebook group. http://i.imgur.com/oCaQ638.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4LyAV8z.jpg I guess now that I'm not a student anymore I can splurge on film, but I still feel like an rear end in a top hat.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:21
|
|
|
The Stylus Epic is a good camera tho
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:25
|
|
|
Yeah no complaints about kodak gold here either. I have a shitload of 2006 expired gold 200 and it comes out really nice, considering. Especially so on that drat Pakon which is now unobtainable 
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:38
|
|
|
Unrelated, I found a mint Olympus Pen EE-2 today for $12. Gonna replace my beat up and light-leaky EE that I never use.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 02:39
|
|
|
Chill Callahan posted:Kodak Gold scanned with the Pakon 135+ doesn't look that bad. You just need to overexpose it a stop or two. Here's a few of mine: Hunh those do look good. Still, if you're using expired film you should expect to have to overexpose right? Depending on how it was stored I guess. Why do you feel like an rear end in a top hat buying decent film?
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 15:45
|
|
|
Just a carryover from college when I didn't have any money so I had to squeeze every last bit of value out of things and if I didn't I felt I was wasting something. It still feels weird to put Portra in a P&S cause I don't always put a lot of thought into shots using a P&S.
|
|
#
?
Feb 6, 2015 16:20
|
|
|
I'm kind of confused by why someone would believe manual ISO override to be the deciding factor as to whether a point and shoot was good or not, but to each to their own. I've had fun with Kodak Gold, it's totally impossible to find now though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:09
|
|
|
Not really that they are good or not, rather it makes a decent one a lot better. Like the Stylus Epic is a decent/good camera but ISO override would make it much more flexible with different film. I'll probably try VomitOnLino's technique before saying 'gently caress it' and getting a GR1v.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:40
|
|
|
Walmart here still carries fresh Kodak Gold $10 for 3 rolls of 200 or $12 for 400.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:45
|
|
|
This v600 really isn't cutting it for 35mm scans :/ Chickens by Paul Frederiksen on 500px
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 00:45
|
|
|
The Epson 35mm holders suck. It's not the scanner's fault. If your film is bowed even slightly in the center, you get blurry scans. They really need to have little plastic dividers between each frame so the film is forced flat. Load your film against the curl in a developing reel for a couple days and it'll flatten most film across both length and width.
|
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 01:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 13:29 |
|
|
BANME.sh posted:The Epson 35mm holders suck. It's not the scanner's fault. If your film is bowed even slightly in the center, you get blurry scans. They really need to have little plastic dividers between each frame so the film is forced flat. Load your film against the curl in a developing reel for a couple days and it'll flatten most film across both length and width. I'm using the betterscanning glass and it makes a world of a difference, but it's still not great. It's also possible that the lens I'm using just sucks. I just got the 35mm lens which should be 10000% better. It's pretty consistently 'meh', so maybe it's just the lens...  EDIT: yeah, the crop is hosed but I don't feel like uploading it again. vxsarin fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Feb 8, 2015 |
|
#
?
Feb 8, 2015 01:07
|
|