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wormil posted:What is up with the price of hand planes? Been shopping eBay and prices have rocketed this year. Stanleys are up a bit but the non collectables are way up. Even transitionals and no name pieces of crap are priced at $30-40. If you have one and it sells in a day for $15, might as well try doubling the price.
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Nov 21, 2014 21:18
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Anybody tried/heard of filling knot holes with molten zinc? It's got a crazy low melting point and it could look really cool with a patina on it. Something similar to this, which made the internet rounds a while back. These were aluminum cast tables/chairs/etc. 
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Nov 22, 2014 19:50
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Doesn't zinc make crazy toxic fumes when you melt it?
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Nov 22, 2014 20:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Doesn't zinc make crazy toxic fumes when you melt it? Oh yeah, it'll make you super sick. I wouldn't mess with molten zinc at all
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Nov 22, 2014 20:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Doesn't zinc make crazy toxic fumes when you melt it? It makes not-great fumes above it's boiling point, but not when it's just brought to a molten state. There's a giant temperature difference between molten state and giving off oxide fumes. Zinc oxide fumes are bad, which is why welding galvinized steel isn't brilliant without spectacular ventilation. I've gotten metal fume fever a handful of times welding for work, and it sucks but it's not harmful in the long term.
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Nov 23, 2014 01:43
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I snagged a Sargent 409 smoothing plane tonight for $26 shipped. [text removed because I'm an idiot and know nothing about Sargents] Looks to be in excellent condition. I'm anxious to try it against my English made Stanley since that's the only other smoother I own. edit; pic Also I just realized the lever cap has the right shape but is missing the logo, that's probably why no one bid on it. No problem for me as I'm buying a user, not a dust collector. [another edit; apparently no logo was normal prior to 1910] 
wormil fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Nov 23, 2014 |
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Nov 23, 2014 02:21
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I've finally finished refinishing all my 120 year old wood window sashes and frames. Now I have the molding left to do. Like the windows, all the door and window molding has a fuckton of paint on it. Doing all the surfaces on the windows was bad enough, I really am not looking forward to taking this down to bare wood. My other options are: Buy new from a millwork shop Do it myself. Regarding the second option, is this something I can reproduce on a router table with the right bits?
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Nov 23, 2014 02:50
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Stultus Maximus posted:I've finally finished refinishing all my 120 year old wood window sashes and frames. Now I have the molding left to do. Like the windows, all the door and window molding has a fuckton of paint on it. Doing all the surfaces on the windows was bad enough, I really am not looking forward to taking this down to bare wood. What about using paint stripper? Those are pretty wide boards, you'd be best served by a mill. Not easy with a router.
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Nov 23, 2014 09:05
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Stultus Maximus posted:I've finally finished refinishing all my 120 year old wood window sashes and frames. I have been thinking about doing this for some of my 120 year old wood windows. Were there any resources (books / articles / etc) that you found particularly helpful?
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Nov 23, 2014 13:58
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Stultus Maximus posted:Regarding the second option, is this something I can reproduce on a router table with the right bits? As a single piece, no, not really. If you break it up into 4 different pieces of wood, maybe. You would need a single board maybe 1/4" thick, by however wide the whole thing is. This would be what holds the other three pieces together, and what lets you nail it to the wall. Then you'd have the middle section, with the cove in the middle, and a bead on either side. Then on either side of that you'd have a piece with one square edge on the interior, and the ovolo on the exposed side. Glue everything together and it would probably be just as good as the original. The rosettes are a pain to make, and you'd be better off cleaning those up.  I messed up part of the middle moulding, but you get the idea.
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Nov 23, 2014 14:38
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armorer posted:I have been thinking about doing this for some of my 120 year old wood windows. Were there any resources (books / articles / etc) that you found particularly helpful? I was fortunate enough to have this at my local library http://www.amazon.com/Working-Windows-Guide-Repair-Restoration/dp/1599213117
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Nov 23, 2014 16:34
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Stultus Maximus posted:I was fortunate enough to have this at my local library Thanks, I will look for that book.
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Nov 23, 2014 18:03
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Stultus Maximus posted:I've finally finished refinishing all my 120 year old wood window sashes and frames. Now I have the molding left to do. Like the windows, all the door and window molding has a fuckton of paint on it. Doing all the surfaces on the windows was bad enough, I really am not looking forward to taking this down to bare wood. Trim Carpentry Techniques has a section about making custom moulding with router bits.
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Nov 23, 2014 19:50
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jvick posted:What about using paint stripper? I think it would actually cost more in stripper than buying new from a mill, not to mention the PITA that sanding all those crevices will be - the window sashes were bad enough. This is for 12 windows, about 180 linear feet of molding.
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Nov 23, 2014 21:08
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I was gonna build a prototype blade guard with dust extraction this weekend with plywood sides instead of lexan. If you GIS shopnotes blade guard you'll find multiple versions of it. But it's really not possible to build this without a bandsaw or jigsaw, and I got neither at the moment. Can't wait for the bandsaw to get here. And in other news, my 3M full face mask (6000 series) really is the best guard against dust in this non-DC enviroment, it doesn't fog over and I can wear it for hours. I've had it for years actually and rarely used it, found it in a box and now I wore it 10+ hours combined this weekend.
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Nov 24, 2014 08:46
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His Divine Shadow posted:And in other news, my 3M full face mask (6000 series) really is the best guard against dust in this non-DC enviroment, it doesn't fog over and I can wear it for hours. I've had it for years actually and rarely used it, found it in a box and now I wore it 10+ hours combined this weekend. I got the 3M painters series and I love it!! do you think keeping it in a plastic bag helps keep it fresh longer or is that something I do thats in my head
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Nov 24, 2014 16:30
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I have no idea, I just hang it from the wall on a french cleat hanger I made for it.
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Nov 24, 2014 17:05
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edit: nevermind
WobblySausage fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Aug 5, 2015 |
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Nov 24, 2014 21:23
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was gonna build a prototype blade guard with dust extraction this weekend with plywood sides instead of lexan. If you GIS shopnotes blade guard you'll find multiple versions of it. But it's really not possible to build this without a bandsaw or jigsaw, and I got neither at the moment. Can't wait for the bandsaw to get here. Coping saw? Freehand router? Hatchet  ?
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Nov 24, 2014 21:34
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WobblySausage posted:
What projector are you using? Your setup looks good.
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Nov 25, 2014 00:23
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WobblySausage fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Aug 5, 2015 |
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Nov 25, 2014 01:45
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The brace turned out to be a Stanley 78, 10". I cleaned it up but didn't take any pics. It's better than the much older brace I've been using. The 3 auger bits turned out to Sheffield English, 1 Marples #6, & 2 adjustable Ridgways. The Dandee Reel after 3 applications of Naval Jelly + wire brush. It works fine but I have no use for another chalk line and they are worth about $5 in excellent condition so I gave it to a friend.  The Stanley 220. Degreased and washed, lapped the sole and sides. The sides are not flat but I'm not going to spend all day lapping sides on a $10 plane. The sole is flat enough. 80 grit then 240 just for the hell of it. The blade looks almost brand new after removing the grime and rust, I think it still has the factory edge. Sharpening will be tomorrow's job.  
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Nov 25, 2014 07:26
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Nice. Any good sites or videos for cleaning an sharpening hand tools? I got some of my dad's hand saws and a hand planer that I tried to clean like I would motorcycle parts (nevr dull and polish) and that doesn't seem to be cutting it.
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Nov 25, 2014 13:17
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Stultus Maximus posted:I think it would actually cost more in stripper than buying new from a mill, not to mention the PITA that sanding all those crevices will be - the window sashes were bad enough. This is for 12 windows, about 180 linear feet of molding. The other solution is the one I'm using for all the woodwork in my place: hot air gun and a paint-scraper, finishing off with a solvent (usually meths) to get lingering varnish off that may be under the paint. Your mouldings don't look too horrific to do with hot air/paint scraper, apart from the rosettes which might be a ball-ache. Tedious, but largely free.
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Nov 25, 2014 16:39
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Doctor Zero posted:Nice. Nver dull is too gentle, are you trying to remove rust? Evaporust or a wire brush and wd40 will do wonders, just depends really on your goal and value of the tool. wormil fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 25, 2014 |
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Nov 25, 2014 18:35
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Doctor Zero posted:Nice. Paul Sellers has a few video on clean up and sharpening at his youtube channel and on the free section of his website. I just use sandpaper to get the rust off. Get a big flat marble tile at the hardware store and clamp down some wet/dry sandpaper for lapping. Brasso is good for cleaning up brass hardware and brass wire brush can help with getting gunk out of the nooks and crannies. For sharpening saws you'll need a 10" single cut mill file to lap the teeth and the right size saw file for the gullets. Nicholson files are pretty poor quality these days but work in a pinch. Bahco or Grobet are better quality. I got a set from toolsforworkingwood.com that I'm happy with. For sharpening chisels and plane blades you'll want some sort of sharpening stone. I use the Ezelap diamond stones that Paul Sellers recommends. A piece of leather for stropping and some buffing compound will get you the mirror finish on the bevel for cheap. Here's a Disston D-7 that I got at an estate sale over the weekend and cleaned up. One of the brass screws snapped off so that's why it's missing. I ordered a few sets of ebay to replace it, hopefully one of them matches. I sanded off the varnish on the handle and gave it a few coats of amber shellac and then some paste wax. The teeth were in pretty bad shape from poor sharpening so I'm going to try Paul's new technique of recutting them with a hacksaw. 
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Nov 25, 2014 18:37
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Doctor Zero posted:Nice. I just finished sharpening this monster after following the guide here: http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html. It was pretty terrifying but the results are amazing. Super clean cuts. Now I've got a couple others I want to get sharp. 
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Nov 25, 2014 18:58
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I am considering mortise and tenon joints using my drill press, making a bunch of holes and paring away the excess is the common way, or one of those attachments. But what if I am satisfied with a round cornered mortise and I just pair away at the tenon instead, can't I use a straight router bit to drill with and make a clean round mortise like that? I'd just make a series of holes as usual, then I drag the workpiece back and forth across the fence with the router bit depressed to clean out the sides, in my fantasy this yields a nice rounded mortise. Does this sound safe or sane? Perhaps you could achieve the same result with a brad point bit but I get the impression the router bit is more suited to being dragged sideways and hogging away material than a brad point bit. BTW, steve ramseys drill press table, it's a good design, I have so much more table surface now and the fence, this is perhas the most important thing ever. It's transformed my drill press from being unable tomake two straight holes even if I pre punch with an awl, to making a whole series of perfectly lined up holes. What an incredible transformation of the machine.
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Nov 26, 2014 08:40
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You can get perfectly acceptable routed mortises off a router table just doing stop-cuts (drop the workpiece onto the spinning bit, move it to a pre-set position at the end of your mortise, remove carefully). Just do it in multiple passes to reduce the likelyhood of your workpiece becoming a deadly projectile. You can also use a drill press and a chisel to flatten the sides out and leave the ends rounded. Cut your tenons on a band or table saw, then rasp them into shape on the ends.
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Nov 26, 2014 08:59
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I don't own a router and I mentioned the drill press and chisel method in my own post. I am already aware of the conventional methods for making mortises and tenons. This was a question looking for feedback about an idea I came up with, not a question on how to make mortise and joints in general, because I know that already.
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Nov 26, 2014 09:12
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Yeah, my bad, totally misread that. I have no idea if that'd work. It seems like it'd be fine if you go slow, but putting lateral force on a router bit in a drill press also sounds like a potentially scary projectile situation.
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Nov 26, 2014 10:15
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Just made a bid on a used makita 3/4" router, I guess I need something like this anyway. Also got the final bill for the sheets of birch plywood I got via my work, 3x 18mm and 3x12mm, that's roughly equivalent to 3/4" and 1/2" plywood, full sized sheets = 100 euros. I guess that's a p.good price. Still used only less than half of one 3/4" sheet. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 10:57
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Would a drill press even spin fast enough to cut with a router bit?
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Nov 26, 2014 15:16
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RadioPassive posted:Would a drill press even spin fast enough to cut with a router bit? I tried it once years ago and the results were dismal. I don't remember the details other than that I told myself to never try it again.
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Nov 26, 2014 15:38
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His Divine Shadow posted:Just made a bid on a used makita 3/4" router, I guess I need something like this anyway. You'll be happier using a router table. If you do drill out the waste I recommend using a smaller bit because I never seem to get the bit lined up exactly in line even with a fence but that's probably just my failing. Also you'll need a Forstner bit for overlapping holes. A drill press is my least favorite method. I recently acquired a mortising machine and it shows potential though I've only done test mortises. A router works really well but you either have to round tenons or square the mortise. To answer your original question, don't bother with router bits in the drill press because it isn't fast enough and the side pressure will loosen the chuck.
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Nov 26, 2014 17:10
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quote:The lumber we have been waiting for months to arrive is finally here! And as a special thanks to all of you, we will have the new shipment on sale for two days only -- Black Friday and Saturday (November 28 & 29). Regardless of species, they are all priced at $6.99 per board foot. Available only at Toledo Woodcraft! 
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Nov 26, 2014 17:24
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Picked up a neat saw this evening at the "antique mall" for $12. Disston No 8 panel saw, straight back with a nib and I believe it's a ship point. Medallion dates it to 1860-1865 and according to the Disstonian Institute it's somewhat uncommon to find an etch that says just Henry Disston and not "& Sons". It's got a small screw in the top of the handle that looks like it was intended to stop the handle splitting. Other than that the handle is in good shape, no chipped or broken horns. Pretty cool to find a 150 year old tool. I'll post pics after I clean it up.
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Nov 27, 2014 07:00
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His Divine Shadow posted:I am considering mortise and tenon joints using my drill press, making a bunch of holes and paring away the excess is the common way, or one of those attachments. Needs the right bit in terms of router bit in the drill press https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4HbLCGRphc It looks like it cuts well enough there that cleaning it out by sliding would work. You can always max out the drill press speed to help too.
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Nov 27, 2014 07:34
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Well tbh it only looks marginally more useful than simply using a forstner bit when I see that video. In other news the bandsaw arrived and it's apparently a tad too tall to fit through the door.
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Nov 27, 2014 12:40
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His Divine Shadow posted:Well tbh it only looks marginally more useful than simply using a forstner bit when I see that video. I almost had the same problem: on the pallet, mine cleared my garage door by less than an inch. 
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Nov 27, 2014 19:52
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