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PoptartsNinja posted:The figures look fine, and everything else looks great (I don't even spot that nub you're talking about, but I admit I don't know where to look)! Easier than that: Touch your wrists to each other like you're handcuffed. Your hands will be forced to shake at the same angle and frequency.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 00:56 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 05:07 |
Blackchamber posted:Hey man thanks for sharing your build here. I'm looking forward to mine so I have to live vicariously right now. Sorry I didn't do more of the build itself in progress - but to be honest, this is just basically an MG with different parts setup and, believe it or not, no seam filling. The brown inner frame parts are where the seams lie, and anything with a seam is basically covered by the external parts. Get it while prices are reasonable at $80ish on Amazon for the black version, $72 to pre-order the gray version (GET THE GRAY ONE) PoptartsNinja posted:The figures look fine, and everything else looks great (I don't even spot that nub you're talking about, but I admit I don't know where to look)! Broken Loose posted:Easier than that: Touch your wrists to each other like you're handcuffed. Your hands will be forced to shake at the same angle and frequency. Next time I paint plastic mans I will try both. Been dying to have an excuse to get a hangar base or something like that, and do a maintenance scene. I always thought a Dom painted in desert colors with Soviet decals would be the singular coolest thing, so maybe I'll invest in an HGUC to fit a hangar and do maintenance mans.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 01:29 |
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Watching him struggle fruitlessly with that knee lock is borderline painful.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 03:32 |
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Bimmi posted:Watching him struggle fruitlessly with that knee lock is borderline painful. I'm glad I wasn't the only one. It could just feel his frustration. Doesn't change the fact that I still want a PG Unicorn, though. Just now I know I'm going to pop pieces off and struggle endlessly with locking mechanisms when I go to transform it. If I ever get one, of course... Edit: This is why you get shelves or cases with glass doors, by the way. VVVV
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 03:49 |
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Bimmi posted:Watching him struggle fruitlessly with that knee lock is borderline painful. just the like MGs it looks like something you transform once and leave that way forever. Until it jumps off a shelf and explodes
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 03:49 |
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Bimmi posted:Watching him struggle fruitlessly with that knee lock is borderline painful. He figured it out eventually. Did it in one try on the other knee. Honestly it seemed pretty easy to transform.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 03:55 |
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That model is very pretty but I don't know if I'll ever have the patience to put something like it together. Can't imagine how long it would take to do it well.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 03:59 |
Users of Mr. Surfacer 500, I need some help. I went to down on the gigantic amount of seams of my Rick Dom's beam bazooka, because I'm a dumbass who thought it'd be easier/better to do the seams with Mr. Surfacer 500 and/or putty as necessary rather than risk weird non-welds with Tamiya extra thin. After getting just enough fill of Mr. Surfacer and giving it a modest sanding, then putting on Alclad white primer (lacquer, if it matters), I noticed that the blobs of Mr. Surfacer alongside the seam weren't so smooth. They blobbed through the primer. So I went at them a little more, this time with a bit of force to the sanding sticks I was using (600 grit on a popsicle stick) and seeing that I wasn't making too much headway, I started breaking out the Revlon emery boards. What you see is after redoing the sanded areas with primer, and going a little heavy on it to ensure the residual scratches got scratch-filled. I'm a bit concerned that I can't quite get rid of the blobs. Should I soak Q-tips in lacquer thinner and run them over the offending areas until the blobs are gone and primer again? Or should I just sand this coat of primer at 600 or a different grit, hope for smoothness, prime again, etc.? If it helps, I'm going to be putting Alclad gloss black base on this, then Gunmetal metallizer. Since this is a giant loving beam bazooka that's literally taller than the Rick Dom that'd carry it, I'd like to do what I can to de-blob the seam. Any thoughts? Click for huge if it helps. This was also taken about three feet away from a bare CFL bulb, so I don't know if I'm being a perfectionist or if the primer's doing its job of revealing flaws that can be fixed.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 04:35 |
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MJP posted:I'm pretty sure that the figures are going to end up in the hall of shame part of Traditional Games but for my first time out, I'm satisfied. I wanted to see if you are really sure about your quality and.... SNAAAAAAKEEEEEE!!!!! Well it's not that bad!
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 04:44 |
Tenzarin posted:I wanted to see if you are really sure about your quality and.... I wish I could have done so detailed a face as that, though :-( For anyone who wants to see an unboxing of MG Rex: http://www.hobbylink.tv/1100-rex-black-ver-by-kotobukiya-part-1-unbox
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 17:34 |
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neo zeong has a brief cameo in build fighters, as a pile of broken plastic of course.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 21:24 |
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Fauxtool posted:neo zeong has a brief cameo in build fighters, as a pile of broken plastic of course. On a show designed to help sell model kits why would showing the Neo Zeong only as a pile of broken plastic be a matter 'of course'?
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 21:28 |
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MJP posted:I wish I could have done so detailed a face as that, though :-( rrobbert should get back to reviewing gunpla on youtube.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 21:51 |
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I thought it was zeo zeong on the show.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 04:04 |
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Anyone planning to build anything on Thanksgoufing? I've got a Gouf R35 for just that purpose.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 04:10 |
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The Gundam Build Fighters Gouf was next on my list as well.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 04:24 |
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chumbler posted:Anyone planning to build anything on Thanksgoufing? I've got a Gouf R35 for just that purpose. I went out and looked for the HGBF Gouf, but couldn't find one
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 04:25 |
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Working on G-Self and if feel really saucy i'll try out a panel wash since I have all the stuff for it now.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 04:44 |
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Would it be worth it to just start brushing on future to skip pens for panel lines and wash? Or can you panel line by cutting the enamel with water?
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 05:03 |
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madpanda posted:I thought it was zeo zeong on the show. Possibly, I heard something zeong followed by a lot of broken plastic
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 05:37 |
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So I picked up a new project today.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 05:41 |
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TheManSeries posted:
I have all the deculture ones, love em. I think I have built 5 bandai vf-25's now. Careful with the nose gear flaps, very easy to break the pegs. Everything else is very solid and well made.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 05:52 |
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madpanda posted:I thought it was zeo zeong on the show. That's how it was translated in the sub. Instead of a Sinanju core, it was an old-school Zeong.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 06:20 |
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Warmachine posted:That's how it was translated in the sub. Instead of a Sinanju core, it was an old-school Zeong. Wouldn't that be a Double Zeong?
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 10:42 |
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Yesssssss my first MG has arrived. RX-78-2 v2.0 (I got 2.0 because I prefer it being more anime-accurate, and more accessories). Wish me luck gunpla thread.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 12:43 |
I thought I'd give a little pop to the inner ankle armor of my Rick Dom. This is just going over the raised parts with a silver Gundam marker. It's not bad. Not Alclad or even Mr. Metallic Color but I'd much rather do it this way and have it get that nice lattice look. Might just barely have enough Testors Model Master stainless steel metallizer to get the inner ankle frame bits looking pretty so I don't have to wait to get stuff at Gundam Planet on Saturday Needs some touching up but it's not bad.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 15:20 |
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Yesssssss my first MG has arrived. This was the first model I finished, you'll do fine.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 15:37 |
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OK, I've assemled most of it but oh my god the legs will NOT stay on. The ball joint at the hips just pops out as soon as I try to pose it at all.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 18:22 |
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Push it all the way in, it will kinda click and connect past a certain treshhold. If i'm remembering mine correctly.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 18:34 |
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Yesssssss my first MG has arrived. On a similar note, I ordered an MG 00 Raiser on amazon last night (it was marked down decently and oh god what has this hobby done to me). Anything I should be aware of with it, for those who have built one?
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 18:35 |
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chumbler posted:On a similar note, I ordered an MG 00 Raiser on amazon last night (it was marked down decently and oh god what has this hobby done to me). Anything I should be aware of with it, for those who have built one? Unless you have a stand, I'd advise against trying to pose it with the 0 Raiser attached.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 18:42 |
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chumbler posted:On a similar note, I ordered an MG 00 Raiser on amazon last night (it was marked down decently and oh god what has this hobby done to me). Anything I should be aware of with it, for those who have built one? When you attach the green translucent bit for the knee to the gray cylinder bit, really loving push those things together until you hear it click.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 19:00 |
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Dang, that MG Exia Dark Matter looks so much better than the HG. Its in-show appearance trod this careful line between 'goofy, tryhard mass of spiky plastic' and 'genuinely intimidating', and the MG pushes it way further towards the latter end of the scale. I've now received Patrick's Enact, the Throne Zwei, and an Action Base in the mail, so that's my weekend set up. Here's to seeing just how floppy the Enact actually is - the Base should at least give me an acceptable Plan B if the answer is 'too floppy'. I also want to give the Arche a go, and if my Enact build goes well, Ali's custom version is a very sexy-looking piece of kit. Just wish 00 had more good-looking hero suits to set them off with. Maybe the Dynames or Cherudim? Ah, well, at least Reconguista in G seems to have learned its lesson and given the badass Zeonesque designs to the good guys.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 19:12 |
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Zedd posted:Push it all the way in, it will kinda click and connect past a certain treshhold. Cheers, that got it. Just had to give it a good bit of force to house them. Now that's fixed, this is a rock-solid kit. All the joints are plenty stiff, it'll hold poses really well.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 19:37 |
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I'm thinking about picking up some markers this month to go with my kit (either Sinanju or Sazabi) and I was wondering if it's worth it to get the Zeon Colors set or if I should just get the basic pack. Don't come back with "Just paint" because it's not an option right now, hence markers.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 20:44 |
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Literally The Worst posted:When you attach the green translucent bit for the knee to the gray cylinder bit, really loving push those things together until you hear it click. Seconding this but also be really aware of how you do the wrist joints, they aren't very clearly marked.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 21:09 |
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Literally The Worst posted:I'm thinking about picking up some markers this month to go with my kit (either Sinanju or Sazabi) and I was wondering if it's worth it to get the Zeon Colors set or if I should just get the basic pack. Don't come back with "Just paint" because it's not an option right now, hence markers. The yellow in the basic kit would be good for the Zeon details, and you could use the white on the fuel tanks, I guess.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 21:14 |
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Actually I might just be getting the Chars Zaku and RX782 2.0 kits so I might say gently caress it and get both because gently caress it
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 21:31 |
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Has anyone tried an acrylic panel line wash? I've read that mini war gaming models have used a mix of 4 parts water, 2 parts future, and 1 part paint to some success. The paint ends up getting pulled down by the future, leveled out from using future, and then sealed in by it. Sounds that since its all acrylic it can't really harm the plastic.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 22:38 |
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# ? May 18, 2024 05:07 |
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Acrylic panel washes are great, they just don't blend well with normal handpainting since acrylic lining on acrylic base coats is a recipe for disaster. Also the best recipe is Future/Tamiya Flat Base at about a 3:1 ratio mixed with a paint of your choice at 4:1.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 22:44 |