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For my 09 spec.B, there is a handy dandy chart based on ambient temps. Synthetic is not called for, and the dealers do not use it when I ask them about it. 5w40 is acceptable for all temperatures I see in Chicago based on the chart, though it's not fun to start in the -20 degree days.
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Dec 1, 2014 21:49
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si posted:For my 09 spec.B, there is a handy dandy chart based on ambient temps. Synthetic is not called for, and the dealers do not use it when I ask them about it. 5w40 is acceptable for all temperatures I see in Chicago based on the chart, though it's not fun to start in the -20 degree days. As of 2011 that is no longer the case. They actually mailed out corrections to the owner's manual in 2011 and it was changed from 2012 on. Only 5w30 is specified now and synthetic is required, there are no ranges and no other weight oil is permitted as per the service schedule.
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Dec 1, 2014 21:52
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All turbo cars need synthetic only and warranty will be denied if you use conventional according to SoA. This was changed after the turbo cars started blowing up. Get a 5w30 synth from the dealer or use something that isn't bottom shelf poo poo from any parts store. Keep your receipts. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance-2015.html If you have more questions. Edit: beaten
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Dec 1, 2014 21:54
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Ok thats good to know. I guess Ill hit the dealer up for some oil, though last time I bought oil from there is was somethin like $60-70 just for oil. drat you subaru and your exploding motors!
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Dec 1, 2014 22:00
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Here's the relevant page in the owner's manual. It says you can use conventional or 5w40 to top off in the event of emergency but should be changed out.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:01
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Slow is Fast posted:All turbo cars need synthetic only and warranty will be denied if you use conventional according to SoA. This was changed after the turbo cars started blowing up. Can you provide a reference for this? The dealer service centers here swears it is not true, even though I suggested similar to them. There was a bulletin put out by SoA recommending synthetic, but not requiring it. I checked this with 2 dealer service centers here, and both said that not using synthetic would not be grounds for warranty issues EXCEPT on the newer 2012+ models, where they specifically required synthetic in the owner's manual. Edit: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#2000Maintenance Synthetic Oil new Subaru Synthetic Oil is new and available starting August 2010. 5w-30 Subaru Synthetic Oil is recommended but not required on any engine through 2009. It is especially recommended on turbo engines. The maintenance schedule is the same regardless of oil used. (statement effective July 2010) Guess 2009 is the last year, even though the EJ255 is still the EJ255. si fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 22:02
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2011+ is actually when they changed it in the owner's manual. The original manuals got updated by a mailed addendum after the fact. Not long after I took delivery of my car in Oct 2010, I got an update booklet in the mail stating that the oil requirements were changed from the original owner's manual. You are correct in that prior models (below 2010) it's not required and grounds for denial, but it was recommended. Anything above 2011 though is required. The requirement is MAINLY about being able to go back to a recommended 7500 mile OCI rather than 3750 which was mandated after the banjo filter fiasco. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 22:06
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http://www.subaruofkeene.com/synthetic-oil.htm http://www.manchestersubaru.com/subaru-synthetic-oil.htm http://www.patriotsubaru.com/synthetic-oil.htm http://www.kinneysubaru.com/subaru-synthetic-motor-oil.htm If Subaru is saying all the new turbo cars are required to use synthetic, and the motors haven't changed... It may be reasonable to retroactively apply those suggestions to the older motors as well, since they are the same thing. At this point the warranty is gone on older poo poo anyway so who cares. Turbo EJ25 in the 2015 vs the older Turbo EJ25s, apples and apples. Guy who originally asked the question. Just put synthetic in your 15 STi and be done with it.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:14
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why would you put anything but synthetic in anything these days anyways. 5 quarts of synthetic is $22 to what, $16 for conventional? Other than stuff that specifically states no synthetic like gearvendors overdrives and poo poo, always put synthetic in everything.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:17
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If I could find synthetic 5w30 reliably for $22/5qt, it'd be no question. In general I tend to find it more around $35/5qt vs $19/5qt of conventional. I do it anyhow, though. Except the RS, because that motor was born to die anyhow.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:19
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si posted:You sure it was 138psi? That's actually "normal" as far as I'm aware, anywhere from like 130-145. 12% leakdown is pretty bad though. My piston sometimes had good compression when hosed. It is why you always want a leakdown.
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Dec 1, 2014 22:22
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I was just copying what was on the invoice; though they did say the leak was on the bottom end, so I guess good compression makes sense? Those could also just be baseline values for all I know. Full set as written: 1 - 150psi / 3% 2 - 143psi / 2% 3 - 152psi / 3% 4 - 138psi / 12% Also got an estimate from a dealer, shortblock replacement is $5200 assuming nothing else pops up. Still need to call GST, but unless their estimate is substantially lower, it's not going to be worth it to head all the way out there. Does anyone have a ballpark on what I could expect to get for this if I sold it, or would it just be KBB - repair cost? LIC said that I was better off selling as-is than doing the repairs and then selling.
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Dec 1, 2014 23:12
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Might be true, but you're going to have a hard time selling it as-is. If you want to stick it out and sell it, you'd definitely be able to sell it for more than kbb - LIC's cost. I still think you can pull off that replacement for less than the $5200 dealer quote even. I don't think you'll be able to sell it as-is for more than kbb - 4k, and I think you can get this fixed for 4k. It might be worth finding a friend who can trailer it somewhere if there's nobody nearby who can do it at a reasonable price.
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Dec 1, 2014 23:28
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All of this is why I don't think I'll be keeping my 2011 WRX much past the factory powertrain warranty. I really don't feel like playing the piston lottery even though I am in a cooler climate with easy access to 93 octane. Hopefully Subaru will have a hatchback WRX by spring of 2016 for me to trade into. If not, maybe Mazda will step up to the plate with an AWD Mazdaspeed 3.
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Dec 1, 2014 23:37
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Artemis J Brassnuts posted:I was just copying what was on the invoice; though they did say the leak was on the bottom end, so I guess good compression makes sense? Those could also just be baseline values for all I know. Since repair costs are too much for you now, why not just drive it as is (from the numbers alone it should still run under its own power, although you haven't mentioned what the symptoms were that led to taking it to a shop, so I'm assuming here) and shop for a long block from a wreck to replace this current engine. I've been surprised before how long broken engines can keep running, might be an option if you're desperate. Dropping in a longblock should be pretty quick and simple, even compared to replacing the short block.
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Dec 2, 2014 01:35
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Eventually the piece of ringland can completely separate from the piston and could damage the rings themselves and cylinder wall. Many cars go a long time like that without anyone ever noticing though, especially with Subaru's high acceptance of oil consumption. And yes, it is completely normal for a car to do well on compression but fail leak down with this problem.
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Dec 2, 2014 02:09
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Welp went to a different dealer and it was $40 for 5 qts, not much more than i was paying for t6. Also yay my plasti dip rattlecans showed up early, going hog wild on my winter rims at the moment.
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Dec 2, 2014 03:23
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Bajaha posted:Since repair costs are too much for you now, why not just drive it as is (from the numbers alone it should still run under its own power, although you haven't mentioned what the symptoms were that led to taking it to a shop, so I'm assuming here) and shop for a long block from a wreck to replace this current engine.
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Dec 2, 2014 03:48
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TheFargate posted:So Im ready to do my first oil change in my '15 sti and Im wondering what oil I should use. I had used t6 on my '13 wrx but there seem to be a a lot of accusations flying around about recently blown motors being serviced with t6. Though at least one of the instances I saw SOA admitted to lovely bearing tolerances and its giving me quite the headache digging through nasioc and the like. The internet bullshit appears to be piling up on those sites. Should I stick with t6 or just grab any ol 5w30/40? rotella, valvoline vr1, neo synthetics, motul, oem, take your pick. If you aren't seeing actual teardowns and oil analysis performed, ignore the bullshit rhetoric that people hold onto like the plague on nasioc; it's mostly a cesspool outside of, save maybe 3 sub forums. Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Well, I just picked my car back up and had a chat with the guys. They were pretty resistant to just replacing the shortblock and insisted that if I really wanted to keep the car I should just bite the bullet and get forged pistons, upgraded valves, etc. Well, do you want a built block or not? I can insist you transfer that title over to me, gratis, but in the end, it's your call, and your checkbook; do what you've gotta do. It's really hard to tell you what needs to be done before the teardown, but you have the ballpark figures already. If you still want to get rid of the car, I know carmax will take sti's all day with #4 issues disclosed. bull3964 posted:All of this is why I don't think I'll be keeping my 2011 WRX much past the factory powertrain warranty. I really don't feel like playing the piston lottery even though I am in a cooler climate with easy access to 93 octane. Hopefully Subaru will have a hatchback WRX by spring of 2016 for me to trade into. If not, maybe Mazda will step up to the plate with an AWD Mazdaspeed 3. Treat her right and she'll take care of you, it's as simple as that. If you want power, you've gotta pay to play; or get something with an LS/coyote.
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Dec 2, 2014 08:03
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As far as DIY goes, how hard is it to change out the timing belt on an '04 FXT? I just hit the 105K mark and I'm broke as poo poo right now. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have done things to the car like swap out the CV axles, replaced radiator, etc. I understand the consequences of loving this particular repair up but really don't have a grand laying around to drop on replacing the drat thing. I tried to find resources on it already but so far what I can find relates to the NA forester. If it's the same or really close to a WRX/STI timing belt I guess I can follow one of those walkthroughs.
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Dec 2, 2014 13:22
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04 should be an EJ205, so any EJ205 should be the same procedure for you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mjCegTnB60
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Dec 2, 2014 14:19
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DAT RAM posted:As far as DIY goes, how hard is it to change out the timing belt on an '04 FXT? I just hit the 105K mark and I'm broke as poo poo right now. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have done things to the car like swap out the CV axles, replaced radiator, etc. I understand the consequences of loving this particular repair up but really don't have a grand laying around to drop on replacing the drat thing. FXTs were all 2.5L. Not 2.0L. NA was SOHC, turbo was twin cam. Just use a wrx/sti guide.
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Dec 2, 2014 14:22
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Slow is Fast posted:
Thanks! I'll go down that route. I know it's the same engine as the 04' STI with the TD04 turbo. drat this looks like a pain in the nuts
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Dec 2, 2014 16:49
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Slow is Fast posted:FXTs were all 2.5L. Not 2.0L. My bad - was thinking that since it followed the Impreza line it would've stayed with the EJ20 until 05 as well.
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Dec 2, 2014 16:59
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McSpatula posted:
Really wish that was the case, but it doesn't seem to be. There's an overwhelming number of people who have done regular maintenance and kept things completely stock that still develop major engine issues. I mean, hell, we've had like 2 or 3 in this thread alone and that doesn't seem like it should be statistically likely due to the sample size. I just don't trust the EJ255 to be as trouble free as my EJ205 was. There's just too much anecdotal evidence to suggest that there's a higher than normal chance of developing major engine issues eventually on it.
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Dec 2, 2014 17:58
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DAT RAM posted:Thanks! I'll go down that route. I know it's the same engine as the 04' STI with the TD04 turbo. With the radiator and fans out you have quite a bit of room. You can do the belt by just by pulling the fan but you'll want to change the waterpump (use OEM!) so it's got to get drained anyway. Here's my process for the belt: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1PunROR3VU (I'll admit it takes a little longer in-car because the exhaust gears are a little harder to line up)
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Dec 2, 2014 18:31
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bull3964 posted:Really wish that was the case, but it doesn't seem to be. There's an overwhelming number of people who have done regular maintenance and kept things completely stock that still develop major engine issues. I mean, hell, we've had like 2 or 3 in this thread alone and that doesn't seem like it should be statistically likely due to the sample size. FWIW, my '05 LGT munched an exhaust valve on #4 a year into my ownership. I was the third owner however, and the car did have some warning signs of prior owner nonsense (vac line for boost gauge, audio system hookups, crappy HIDs). If I hadn't gotten it for a few grand under the average market rate here in the frozen Midwest tundra, I would probably have passed. I'm planning on it getting an OEM shortblock with forged pistons sometime in the next couple years, because I'm sure it's just a matter of time until I get a cracked ringland. Hoping it makes it to 200k before that happens. I mostly recommend non-turbo Subarus to people who ask, and warn them or steer them away from the early 2.5 NAs.
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Dec 2, 2014 18:47
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bull3964 posted:Really wish that was the case, but it doesn't seem to be. There's an overwhelming number of people who have done regular maintenance and kept things completely stock that still develop major engine issues. I mean, hell, we've had like 2 or 3 in this thread alone and that doesn't seem like it should be statistically likely due to the sample size. You're cherry picking the sample size at this point. Believe me, I'd love to play the blame game with soa as much as the next guy, but without real data to back up this claim, it's just crying wolf at this point. Sure there were a few reported cases of 3rd gens that developed det/fueling issues, and those were taken care of; there are thousands of these motors doing just fine in foresters, outbacks, bajas, legacys, 9-2s, etc for more than half a decade now - where are those mystery grenading motors? Hell, I was able to beat the piss out of this motor in kill mode for way longer than it should have gone for, with almost twice the stock rated power down at the wheels. If you were honestly worried about buying a fuse-lit grenade, why bother with the initial purchase to begin with?
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Dec 2, 2014 20:16
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McSpatula posted:there are thousands of these motors doing just fine in foresters, outbacks, bajas, legacys, 9-2s, etc for more than half a decade now - where are those mystery grenading motors? That's not really true though. None of the ones you have listed are tuned the same way the WRX is post 2009. They top out under 230hp. The issue at hand is whether or not Subaru tuned the WRX and STI too close to the edge (especially with emissions compromises) that can lead to an higher than normal number of issues as a result. Less of a safety net. Less wiggle room for marginal components. quote:Hell, I was able to beat the piss out of this motor in kill mode for way longer than it should have gone for, with almost twice the stock rated power down at the wheels. Not every engine will have issues and it's entirely possible that an aftermarket tune (which you had to have) would have mitigated some of them. quote:If you were honestly worried about buying a fuse-lit grenade, why bother with the initial purchase to begin with? At that point, there were only two model years of the increased power output WRX, there were fewer real world reports so it really wasn't talked about as much. Since then though, it seems like it's becoming more and more common. Also, as been pointed out in this thread, the engine can be in partial failure mode without many outward signs so it may go unreported for a lot of people initially. If I were buying today, I would not touch anything with an EJ255 turbo unless I was planning on making it a built project car (or, if it were under warranty) because the risk just seems too high for a DD. The FA20 turbo has been around nearly as long (at least in Japan) as the up-rated EJ255 in the WRX and there's been nary a peep about them yet. I'm not saying every WRX will grenade at 60,001 miles or that even a majority of people will have an issue. I just don't like the variable of uncertainty. The new WRX is pretty much superior to the old model in every way and as long as I can get a hatch, it seems like a no-brainer move.
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Dec 2, 2014 20:41
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bull3964 posted:as long as I can get a hatch, it seems like a no-brainer move.
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Dec 2, 2014 21:36
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It looks like more of us are potentially affected by the takata recall based on the news today. It sounds like the ntsb wants a nationwide recall.
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Dec 2, 2014 22:00
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bull3964 posted:tl;dr grenades Honestly, the fuel trims and adjacent tables on 2nd gen to 3rd gen aren't drastically different. Scaling is a bit more generous to boot as well (to err on the side of caution). The majority of failures that I have seen with valuable corresponding data have shifted the blame to major ancillary part failure, leading to det/lean conditions, that those poor pistons just weren't designed to handle; and built shortblock or not, you'd eventually have a giant heap of scrap if things aren't caught in time. The failure signs are there, this isn't some voodoo system that we've just discovered. Some people catch them, others cry on nasioc when the big bad wolf blows down the hut despite all the warnings. As far as my block goes, like I said, it was in kill mode. It wasn't supposed to last for more than a full competitive season, but surprisingly went beyond our guesstimate - major det issues and all.  tl;dr if it's gonna fail, it'll give you hints long before it happens, unless it's 1% genuine random catastrophic part failure
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Dec 2, 2014 22:08
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Jamal and Co, whats the Labor time at a shop for valve cover gaskets for a 98 Forester, DOHC 2.5?
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Dec 2, 2014 22:42
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I'd say 2 hours tops.
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Dec 2, 2014 22:56
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Thanks my fren.
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Dec 2, 2014 23:05
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Is there a trick to making sure that the new valve cover gaskets don't leak? All my friends who have had valve cover gaskets done have had them leak again - doesn't matter if it's at a trusted indie, Subaru-specific indie, or the dealership.
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Dec 3, 2014 00:21
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Is there a trick to making sure that the new valve cover gaskets don't leak? All my friends who have had valve cover gaskets done have had them leak again - doesn't matter if it's at a trusted indie, Subaru-specific indie, or the dealership. I have never had issues with leaks. I use rock auto felpro gaskets and I do them when the motor is on a stand because I replace them so often. I don't torque them. I use a 3/8ths ratchet and I do them by feel. If they seep I hit them from under the car to tighten them down.
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Dec 3, 2014 00:45
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My girlfriend needs brakes done on her 2009 Forester, and I was thinking of going Centric rotors and stop tech pads. Is there anywhere I could order them to have them delivered before the weekend? I was going to try and wait till my christmas vacation to take care of them but they are way worse then I originally thought. If not are general Autozone rotors and pads worth a drat? Haven't shopped for brakes on a normal daily driver in awhile.
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Dec 3, 2014 00:47
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Where are you?
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Dec 3, 2014 00:52
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jamal posted:Where are you? Michigan, 48066 area code. I ordered some stuff from you awhile back and I think I remember it being pretty dang speedy
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Dec 3, 2014 00:57
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