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ImplicitAssembler posted:I'm struggling to find the thread with the dampers...do you got a link? Second post in this thread I think http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=6915
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Dec 2, 2014 05:57
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Squibbles posted:Second post in this thread I think Thanks!
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Dec 2, 2014 06:21
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MickRaider posted:Honest question? Is there a better design than the Mendel90? IMO, not for kit-built cartesian machines.
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Dec 2, 2014 16:43
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insta posted:IMO, not for kit-built cartesian machines. They make non-cartesian 3d printers? You mean like not running gcode or ones that use polar coordinates?
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Dec 2, 2014 16:58
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oxbrain posted:They make non-cartesian 3d printers? You mean like not running gcode or ones that use polar coordinates? Delta printers.
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Dec 2, 2014 16:59
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Yeah I should have clarified that a bit more. I meant cartesian, moving-bed printers. Something like the U-Conduit is probably better due to the (relatively) stationary bed, but its hard to beat the simplicity and approachability of an MDF Mendel90. They're so simple to modify for anyone who has any shred of skill (want a new part? screw it into the frame) that they bridge the gap between "futuristic spaceprinter" and "garage contraption", with output quality being on par with modern designs vs. the old i2 quality.
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Dec 2, 2014 18:05
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insta posted:IMO, not for kit-built cartesian machines. What about coreXY/Tantillus styles? I really like the Ingentis or Eustathios design
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Dec 2, 2014 19:25
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Yeah see my revision. These machines are great for somebody's second printer, or a pre-packaged appliance. Nothing beats the mechanical simplicity of one-motor-per-plane (well, 2 for Z) for learning how the machines work. When you compare the available designs for these criteria, that's where the Mendel90 wins out. Low printed parts count, attention to detail for flexing cables, sturdiness based on design rather than brute materials strength (see: MendelMax). Lots of other designs are technically better, and if you know enough to know about the Ingentis you are outside the target market for a Mendel90. Again, all IMO...
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Dec 2, 2014 19:38
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Yeah I'm just in need of a project printer so I can stop tearing apart my Robo. That's why I'm trying to weigh the pros and cons of the ingentus variants or just making a Mendel90. I've got a CNC plasma cutter at work I'm considering making the mendel90 frame out of if I go that route. Otherwise I need to place an order for some 20x20 t slot
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Dec 2, 2014 20:32
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Mendel90 is a lot more hackable, and the H-bot shape is a lot less tolerant of bullshit you'll be throwing at it (especially as a project printer!). I'd say Mendel90 in that case. Download the SCAD and play with it. It has a *ton* of options for configuration.
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Dec 2, 2014 20:40
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Yeah I do SolidWorks professionally so I could design a printer from scratch if I wanted. I just like the idea of the X and Y being on 1 plane with the Z being simply supported, that's why I'm leaning toward the Eustathios. I mostly want a printer that's rock solid that I don't need to tinker with, then my robo can be my project. Thanks for your opinion though. I really like the mendel 90. Maybe I can just make two 
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Dec 2, 2014 21:07
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Just wanted to pop into this thread and say hello. With as big as this thread is I don't see why a 3d printing subforum for DIY isn't justified. Running on a Solidoodle 4 which I've modified pretty extensively to use linear bearings, e3d v6 hotend, RUMBA motherboard and the ever so awesome SUPERNIGHT PSU. Any other mod happy Solidoodle owners out there? About to beef up my carriage system further with flanged bearings and fishing line. Looking for dimensional precision because I'm anal and fishing line rocks because of that near-zero backlash!
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Dec 5, 2014 00:49
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This seems like a good place to ask: how bad is it for a stepper to be turned while not under power or anything? Like, whatever controller it's connected to isn't even on, so the stepper is more or less as good as not connected to anything.
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Dec 5, 2014 00:59
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The stepper doesn't care. Geared motors it may or may not damage the drive train depending on the ratios and whatnot. The controller will obviously need to be re-homed when you turn it on because the motor is in a different place than it was before.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:01
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Okay, good. That's what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. I'm still building my 4x4 router and occasionally I need to move the y-axis out of the way, and instead of either turning the computer on and firing everything up just to jog it a couple feet, or loosening the gear from the rack, I just roll it down by hand, since the steppers provide minimal resistance when not powered. After doing that now and then for a while, I thought, "poo poo, I wonder if that's bad for these things."
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Dec 5, 2014 01:03
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Just don't run the driver with no motor connected. You'll burn it up.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:07
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notadoctor posted:Just don't run the driver with no motor connected. You'll burn it up. I don't think I have, but that's interesting, thanks for the tip. I'm using a gecko g540 if that matters.  e: "heck"? wtf, thanks autocorrect, let's just go with "gecko" instead. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Dec 5, 2014 |
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Dec 5, 2014 01:08
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I notice that the power leds on the power supply and controller board light up when I reposition an axis while it's turned off, i.e; it's generating power.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:11
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That's normal. The motors act like generators and it won't hurt a thing. The board is designed to handle the back current.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:18
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Spookydonut posted:I notice that the power leds on the power supply and controller board light up when I reposition an axis while it's turned off, i.e; it's generating power. You could probably kill some electronics if you started turning your stepper with a cordless drill or something but it's fine to turn it a bit and not too fast/much at once.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:18
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You'll kill a board like that if it's designed poorly. But anything that has things like flyback diodes should be okay
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Dec 5, 2014 01:58
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ante posted:But anything that has things like flyback diodes should be okay g540? I don't know of having damaged it, I have no reason to suspect that yet, but if something goes wrong, knowing that spinning the motors like that may have been the cause could save a lot of debugging time. 
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Dec 5, 2014 02:17
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ante posted:You'll kill a board like that if it's designed poorly. You can't even destroy a shitterboard (Printrboard) this way so I'd say if this happens you're using a piece of poo poo to begin with that will fail soon because every motor has flyback because of the properties of electromagnetism.
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Dec 5, 2014 04:12
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notadoctor posted:You can't even destroy a shitterboard (Printrboard) this way so I'd say if this happens you're using a piece of poo poo to begin with that will fail soon because every motor has flyback because of the properties of electromagnetism.  Bad Munki posted:g540? Nah, you're fine.
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Dec 5, 2014 04:53
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Wasn't trying to be confrontational. However that should not confuse you. Every motor has back current and moving the axes by hand without power cannot damage a board. Every motor move induces back current. There are no drivers out there without flyback diodes. If they did not have them the driver would fail on the first move, or would fail at any reasonable speeds, particularly if it was a high-torque motor with large windings like say a 4 kg-cm NEMA 17. It is to everyone's advantage to keep the conversation civil. I was just letting you know in the politest way possible that you are wrong. Anyone here experimenting with T-Glase? I was trying it out on my e3d with a .4 nozzle and was having OK results but the tech specs really encourage a larger nozzle for good optical effects. Was curious if anyone has tried blue, specifically. The pressure at the nozzle made extruding at anything below 225C problematic, so I'm hoping a .6 will work out better. While the "optimal temperature" is 235, I noticed much more clarity at lower temperatures and a layer height that is 80% of the nozzle diameter. Hoping a .6 will let me achieve reliable printing at 212C. notadoctor fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Dec 5, 2014 |
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Dec 5, 2014 06:34
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notadoctor posted:Wasn't trying to be confrontational. I don't know, calling it a shiterboard is being pretty confrontational. I slide my x and y around by hand literally every time I use my Printrbot and so do many other people. I've never heard of it causing a problem.
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Dec 5, 2014 11:29
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Well if you really dig 1/16 microstepping, non-interchangeable drivers and only one power rail sure it's a great board. I pretty much just threw it out there because it was the least robust board I could think of. You can make perfectly good prints with it, don't get me wrong. I used one for a while. But there are so many better boards that cost less in fact. So I wasn't saying anyone using the Printrboard is making bad prints it's a perfectly usable board. Once you use DRV8825s you won't go back, especially if you throw one on E. Such an accurate driver in comparison to the A9xxxx. If I recall also the Printrboard does not have a GCode fan port which is hilarious. I was using the Rev E though so maybe they've added one. (And you *need* a GCode fan... it is so important). But yeah I suppose I was being a bit of a jerk face. I'm just bitter about that board because its MOSFETs died on me within the first month  . To anyone using a Printrboard though, if you ever get ambitious and try swapping to a board with 1/32 microstepping you will see what you've been missing. It's seriously the difference between 480i and 1080p. I'm just trying to give subtle hints about relatively simple upgrades that will make a massive, massive difference in your output, and swapping out the Printrboard is a huuuuge step. Back on topic, anyone have any experience with T-Glase as I was asking above? notadoctor fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Dec 5, 2014 |
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Dec 5, 2014 14:14
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Last week our Mendel90 spool snagged, the printer climbed up the filament, and it spent 8 hours wiggling itself, climbing up and crashing down while valiantly attempting to complete the print. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZhuCOPJNs8      Hͥͫ̌ͣ̇e͈̙̖̪͕͔ c͖͊̂̍̉̍ͥͨó̹̜̺̘̬̋͋͐m̮͙͎̰̯͖̌̒̎ͥ́e͊s͖͖ͧ Took it down, relevelled the X axis, printed again right off. Get a Mendel90.
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Dec 5, 2014 16:56
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On the heels of the "buy a mendel90" post, anybody want to buy my Ultimaker1 with upgrades? I have the panel, dual extruder, and heated bed (all official upgrades), and 4 spools of plastic + airspool of PVA. If so please send me a PM with some kind of non-offensive number in it.
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Dec 5, 2014 20:17
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notadoctor posted:Just wanted to pop into this thread and say hello. With as big as this thread is I don't see why a 3d printing subforum for DIY isn't justified. 1 88 page thread, running around a page a week isn't very high traffic. There are some very good machine-specific forums out there too. This place is however great for getting an opinion from a wide variety of people at once.
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Dec 5, 2014 20:54
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Sorry for perpetuating the dumb guys. I heard that way back when I first got into 3D printers and never understood why the lights would blink so I believed it.
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Dec 5, 2014 22:21
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So both of the Replicator 2's I support are now beyond my care level to repair. One's had - Ceramic insulation replaced x2 - Nozzle replaced - Thermocouple replaced (before I started) - Heat break replaced - Heatsink fan replaced - Shiny new silicone cover for heater block And still PLA jams in it after a bit. The other's just started displaying layer shift and an inability to fill in a layer outside a certain part of the bed. It can draw the outlines out there but the second it goes to print the fill it starts skipping. Meanwhile we have 4 new Up! Minis and they're pottering away no problems aside from the warping on larger prints at anything less than fine settings. We also have the loan of a Wombat ( http://3d-industries.myshopify.com/collections/printers/products/wombat4 ) an d it's an absolute tank. With it loaded with Diamondage PLA we've printed 200x200mm objects with no lift or curl. The cheaper PLA that Jaycar resells seems to need a hotter temp though as prints are cracking and lifting.
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Dec 9, 2014 04:09
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I get z axis ripples, like little ripples up the side of a model. What causes this and what can I do to fix it?
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Dec 9, 2014 07:00
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Spookydonut posted:I get z axis ripples, like little ripples up the side of a model. What causes this and what can I do to fix it? Have you tried using a layer height matched to the imperial thread / motor step ratio of your z screw? For a 1/4" 16tpi acme screw & 200 steps you end up with 7.9375 microns of z-motion per step instead of the simple 5 microns per step on a M6 screw. Setting your layer height to multiples of your microns-per-step may alleviate the banding. Here are some layer heights (in mm) you could try. code:Nill fucked around with this message at 08:38 on Dec 9, 2014 |
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Dec 9, 2014 08:13
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Nill posted:Is your simple the wood or metal? What layer height are you using?  printerbot simples have an imperial threaded z rod?I'll give it a try. Oh, it's a simple wood with the upgrade kit, using .1 and .3mm layer heights.
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Dec 10, 2014 10:37
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Spookydonut posted:
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Dec 10, 2014 19:48
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I have a bowden extruder, how do people usually swap filaments? I'm trying to swap from PLA to ABS and it's not yanking out. e: I'm thinking about clipping the current filament at the motor and then pushing in the new filament behind it.
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Dec 10, 2014 19:59
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Any one done any big mods to a Printrbot Simple Metal? Specifically larger bed or duel extruder upgrades? If it's a duel extruder upgrade, how much does that reduce the total build volume? Also, anyone used the Smoothieboard? http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard Love it? Hate it? Threw it out a window? IndianaZoidberg fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Dec 11, 2014 |
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Dec 10, 2014 21:16
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mewse posted:I have a bowden extruder, how do people usually swap filaments? I'm trying to swap from PLA to ABS and it's not yanking out. Apologies if you have already tried this but just to make sure we have 'how to pull the plastic out of a bowden tube' covered Hook up laptop/computer to printer. Set head head to well in excess of plastic melt point (210c for PLA) (This is the first step because it takes a while to get this hot) Disconnect spool from motor. Get pliers ready. Wait for heat to have hit target temprature. Wait for a while longer. Pull with pliers If for some reason that does not work: Clip plastic as close to bowden as possible Manually feed in new line of plasic. Use laptop to say 'extrude <length of old plastic +10%>' Your now on the new plastic, but wasted a bit.
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Dec 10, 2014 23:05
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Linux Assassin posted:Apologies if you have already tried this but just to make sure we have 'how to pull the plastic out of a bowden tube' covered No, I haven't, I'm brand new to this game. Thank you!!
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Dec 11, 2014 05:29
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