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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have a question of my own: I would. Just leave some air space in case it backs up.
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Dec 3, 2014 17:12
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have a question of my own: Whether you should connect the two or not depends on where that pipe goes. Very often they are tied into the weeping tile. In that case, I'd say hell no don't connect it. If it's not connected to the weeper then sure - the point of it being there is to keep water off the driveway so it doesn't freeze into a sheet of ice.
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Dec 3, 2014 17:12
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The drain goes to the edge of the yard and driveway slab near the street. I dont think there is any weeping tile. I hosed the drain out and found a discharge point. I guess I will connect and monitor and go from there.
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Dec 3, 2014 17:35
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sirr0bin posted:So the L7148F diagnostic led is flashing two blinks, there is a demand for heat but the boiler is not turning on? Sounds like it's time to replace your temp sensor. If it's in a thermowell (likely is) it will be very easy to replace. TacoHavoc posted:You're sort of talking about two things here. If the aquastat is blinking double, that indicates a faulty temp sensor. Solve that problem first, it's an easy replacement. If that doesn't fix your problem, follow the troubleshooting steps in the buderus guide. Flaky flame sensors are one likely culprit, yes. If you're not comfortable doing that, call a tech. Honestly, if you haven't had the boiler serviced you really should. I think that I was confusing the flame sensor for the aquastat sensor. I'm just learning how this whole thing works. Despite my dad being a professional boiler operator (at a coal power plant), I never understood these things. If the aquastat sensor is a literal 'take the old part out, replace with new part in same manner' operation, I'd be comfortable doing it. It is in a well, but I'm not sure specifically what that entails. What should I expect to pay a plumber to come out and give it the old once-over and maybe replace that sensor? It's never been serviced, and has been giving me the occasional lock out problem pretty much since it was installed.
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Dec 3, 2014 17:52
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melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2014 17:55
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I would think some sort of enamel would be your best bet, and yes, clean and prime. You'll want to scrape off any loose paint, because if you don't, it'll just chip off later and you'll be back to where you started. In all likelihood, that will mean scraping all the paint off forever.
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Dec 3, 2014 17:59
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Bad Munki posted:I would think some sort of enamel would be your best bet, and yes, clean and prime. You'll want to scrape off any loose paint, because if you don't, it'll just chip off later and you'll be back to where you started. In all likelihood, that will mean scraping all the paint off forever. Yep, priming is key. Primer is stickier than regular paint, that's why it's used as a first coat on surfaces that regular paint doesn't stick to well, like bare metal. You may also want to rough up the bare metal first with sandpaper or a wire brush to give the primer more surface area to stick to. Is there any rust? Remove that as best you can before painting with a wire brush. They also make rust locking primers to help with that after cleaning it off as best you can first. Edit: actually, that goes for painting anything: the more prep work you do, the better and longer lasting results you will have. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 18:33
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Dragyn posted:I think that I was confusing the flame sensor for the aquastat sensor. I'm just learning how this whole thing works. Despite my dad being a professional boiler operator (at a coal power plant), I never understood these things. The sensor replacement should just be a matter of unplugging the old sensor and unscrewing it from the well, then installation is the reverse of removal. A well is just a type of port that lets you replace the sensor without draining the whole system down to the level of the sensor. Sorry, no idea what service costs wherever you live. I'm sure you could find a reputable boiler company to give you an idea of what an inspection costs. The boiler manufacturer probably has designated reps in your area.
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Dec 4, 2014 03:08
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Question about old electrical panels We have a house in So California, built in the 60s, with a 100amp box that is outside recessed into the stucco. The box is a GE Meter Socket and Load Center which i assume refers to the fact that the enclosure houses both the breaker panel and the city electrical meter. The problem I have is that the breaker cover is missing from the box. So when you lift up the cover for the box, you're staring at wires and connectors and what not. I probably wouldn't care except for that we just had a big HVAC job done and now I need to have the city inspector come out to look at the work. There's no way the electrical will pass without that cover. To compound the issue, the box is so old that all of the labels and badges are warn off or missing so I have no idea what the model number of the box is to try and find a replacement. Is my only option to replace the panel at this point? If so, how does that work when the box is recessed into the an exterior wall like mine is?
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Dec 4, 2014 17:34
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Is there a thread anywhere for car stereos/mp3 players? I don't know anything about them but I want to buy one before I travel this month.
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Dec 4, 2014 17:57
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Bad Munki posted:I would think some sort of enamel would be your best bet, and yes, clean and prime. You'll want to scrape off any loose paint, because if you don't, it'll just chip off later and you'll be back to where you started. In all likelihood, that will mean scraping all the paint off forever. kid sinister posted:Yep, priming is key. Primer is stickier than regular paint, that's why it's used as a first coat on surfaces that regular paint doesn't stick to well, like bare metal. You may also want to rough up the bare metal first with sandpaper or a wire brush to give the primer more surface area to stick to. The only thing that's making me hesitate about the work is that it's technically the domain of the condo corporation. But we're selling our house soon, and it takes the condo corporation forever to get anything done (they were supposed to re-paint the fences 2 years ago).
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Dec 4, 2014 18:33
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Corla Plankun posted:Is there a thread anywhere for car stereos/mp3 players? I don't know anything about them but I want to buy one before I travel this month. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908
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Dec 4, 2014 18:40
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Sointenly posted:Question about old electrical panels You may want to ask the Don't Burn Your House Down thread, a picture might help too. But, it looks like Home Depot carries a variety of these things, you might be able to spend ~$150 and just throw away everything but the piece that you need. Or maybe try to fabricate a reasonable facsimile out of a piece of sheet metal?
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Dec 4, 2014 18:54
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melon cat posted:I'll be sure to get some enamel. I suppose the usual Zinsser primer will do the trick. Any tips for removing the paint? It's quite a long fence with lots of vertical bars, so any tricks for getting it done faster would help me out. Wire brush (cup and/or disc shape) chucked up in a cordless drill (with a spare battery to keep swapping and recharging). Wear a dust mask and eye protection.
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Dec 4, 2014 19:32
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If they are big flakes of paint a pressure washer will save you quite some time.
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Dec 4, 2014 21:46
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Sointenly posted:Question about old electrical panels Call GE electrical systems division and give them a run down. There are still parts available for some really, really old-rear end stuff. Expect them to quote you $100 or so. Take their part number to an electrical supply house or ebay and see how much cheaper it is.
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Dec 4, 2014 22:05
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Call GE electrical systems division and give them a run down. There are still parts available for some really, really old-rear end stuff. Expect them to quote you $100 or so. Take their part number to an electrical supply house or ebay and see how much cheaper it is. Thank you for the tip, I will be giving them a call today!
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Dec 4, 2014 22:55
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I have a furnace issue. The heat is turned on via the thermostat, but sometimes the blower will run and the air coming out of the vents isn't heated. The blower will run forever while the temperature in my house drops. If I cycle the heat off and then on again via the thermostat that will result in the system resetting and everything works like it should. I have a digital thermostat that's a very basic programmable model and I've changed the batteries to no effect so I don't think that's the cause. Any ideas? It's been doing this intermittently for the past week.
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Dec 5, 2014 14:41
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stupid puma posted:I have a furnace issue. The heat is turned on via the thermostat, but sometimes the blower will run and the air coming out of the vents isn't heated. The blower will run forever while the temperature in my house drops. If I cycle the heat off and then on again via the thermostat that will result in the system resetting and everything works like it should. I have a digital thermostat that's a very basic programmable model and I've changed the batteries to no effect so I don't think that's the cause. Any ideas? It's been doing this intermittently for the past week. You may have a stuck relay in your air handler. Next time it's blowing without heat coming out, whack the air handler in the general vicinity of the control board with the palm of your hand, like you're giving the furnace a "good game." If it stops blowing: sticky relay. If not: maybe something else.
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Dec 5, 2014 15:54
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Thanks for the reply. Called a guy and turned out it was a dirty flame sensor. Easy fix but I would've had no idea.
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Dec 5, 2014 23:32
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how necessary is a zip tie gun when fixing flex duct? Is there an alternative tool I can use that isn't a specialty tool?
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Dec 5, 2014 23:50
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PuTTY riot posted:how necessary is a zip tie gun when fixing flex duct? Is there an alternative tool I can use that isn't a specialty tool? It's necessary if you want to do it fast. The only other tool that does it as well is a bicycle brake cable tool, but that's also a specialty tool. You can simply pull them tight by hand. They don't have to be THAT tight just sealing.
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Dec 6, 2014 02:25
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Motronic posted:It's necessary if you want to do it fast. The only other tool that does it as well is a bicycle brake cable tool, but that's also a specialty tool. So here's a link to your reply last time I posted about this: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734407&pagenumber=299&perpage=40#post437837336 I was up in the attic doing some other stuff and was on the other side of where I took your pictures. I'm like 99% sure that it's falling off of that collar, I wish I had my phone in my pocket when I was up there. It feels like there's no slack at all. Should I consider replacing the whole run for that room (addressing that sharp turn too) or just yank on it and get it back on?
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Dec 6, 2014 03:04
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PuTTY riot posted:So here's a link to your reply last time I posted about this: Whether you need to replace the run or not depends on if there is enough slack in it. Can you use straps to round out that bend? If so......don't replace it. As far as the zip ties.....man....you are fine just ripping them on by hand. Pull hard, cut off the rest. You'll be OK. Because if you follow what I said in the last followup posts you'll take the time to use aluminum tape on the ends anyway (it's cheap! do it!).
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Dec 6, 2014 03:09
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Thanks. I'll get up there tomorrow afternoon and see what I can come up with.
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Dec 6, 2014 03:16
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I have a spare laptop, and I commute on a train. I don't necessarily work on anything sensitive, but it I read this article a while back about converting a LCD screen so it only can be read if you're using special specs: http://hackaday.com/2011/11/25/making-a-privacy-monitor-from-an-old-lcd/ Would this be possible on a laptop? I have some time over X-mas, it would be a fun project. Bricking the laptop is in no way a concern, it would be an honorable death.
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Dec 6, 2014 16:52
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Turns out its not flex duct but solid duct wrapped in insulation. It appears the ducts were just taped together and now are definitely way loose. I'm going to get some screws and tape and fix it up. It's definitely leaking but it's the supply for the bathroom, the cold bedroom duct is directly next to the leaky one though.
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Dec 6, 2014 18:35
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For a water heater overflow/discharge pipe, can I put a 90 degree elbow on the vertical pipe (coming off the T/P valve) in order to run the pipe out of its current location (a utility room) so it discharges outside? Thanks.
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Dec 6, 2014 21:48
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So, there's a few pieces of trim around the bathroom, and there's a few gaps near the bathtub. I'd like to seal it up so no water gets in there during normal use. Unfortunately, the gaps are big enough that I can't just caulk over it. I do have a can of this expansion foam stuff. Do you think it's cool to spray a little in then caulk over it? Or something else y'all suggest? Also, whoever owned this place before stuck a piece of weatherstripping or something along the bottom of the tub instead of caulking it. I tore it off and there's a bunch of goo left on. Not sure if it's caulk or other adhesive, but it's a pain in the balls to remove. Any suggestions on that, or just some GooGone and razor blades? Should I replace with a new piece of weatherstripping or caulk along the bottom? 
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Dec 7, 2014 05:56
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themaninblack fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Apr 30, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2014 20:04
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Panthrax posted:So, there's a few pieces of trim around the bathroom, and there's a few gaps near the bathtub. I'd like to seal it up so no water gets in there during normal use. Unfortunately, the gaps are big enough that I can't just caulk over it. I do have a can of this expansion foam stuff. Do you think it's cool to spray a little in then caulk over it? Or something else y'all suggest? Just curious- what is that pic showing? I see the baseboard and the gap you're trying to fill, but don't know what the baseboard is wrapping around. Is the baseboard necessary? Is the rest of the bathroom baseboarded? For adhesives and such, I usually try WD-40 and a stiff putty knife first. This is vinyl flooring? The previous owner may have used weatherstripping or trim of some sort to cover a larger than caulkable gap between the flooring and tub. If the gap isn't that big, an 1/8" or so, caulk should be fine. If the gap is larger than that, I prefer trim because caulk tends to hold dirt/dust and can start looking crappy pretty quickly.
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Dec 7, 2014 22:08
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socketwrencher posted:Just curious- what is that pic showing? I see the baseboard and the gap you're trying to fill, but don't know what the baseboard is wrapping around. Is the baseboard necessary? Is the rest of the bathroom baseboarded? Yeah, rest of the bathroom has baseboards. The shiny thing on the left is the tub. Blue is wainscoting next to the tub, and far right beige is a cabinet. The gap between the tub and the floor is very minimal. Def could have just used caulk. Floor is vinyl I assume. I was using too gone and putty knife on the adhesive, but it's a huge pain in the rear end. I'll try the wd40. Thanks.
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Dec 7, 2014 22:35
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Panthrax posted:Yeah, rest of the bathroom has baseboards. The shiny thing on the left is the tub. Blue is wainscoting next to the tub, and far right beige is a cabinet. Got it, thanks. I've seen those baseboard corners "rounded off" at a 45 degree angle which will reduce the gap but that'll mean buying baseboard and mitering new joints. Have you seen what the bottom (the part covered by the baseboard) of the wainscoting looks like? Maybe the baseboard isn't needed? Or maybe you can use quarter round instead.
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Dec 7, 2014 23:17
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socketwrencher posted:Got it, thanks. I've seen those baseboard corners "rounded off" at a 45 degree angle which will reduce the gap but that'll mean buying baseboard and mitering new joints. No, didn't think about pulling it off. If I do and it looks OK, I assume you caulk under the quarter round between the wall and floor and just put the quarter round over it?
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Dec 8, 2014 00:01
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Panthrax posted:No, didn't think about pulling it off. If I do and it looks OK, I assume you caulk under the quarter round between the wall and floor and just put the quarter round over it? Hopefully you won't need quarter round or anything, it might be fine as it is with a bit of wood putty and paint. In bathrooms yes I've seen people lay a thin bead of caulk, embed the quarter round, and then secure the quarter round with a brad nailer (18 gauge or smaller). Before you lay the quarter round, caulk the flooring/wall joint first and let it dry, then lay another bead for the quarter round and wipe away any that oozes out from beneath the quarter round. You don't want the caulk smeared in a fat line at the floor/trim joint because the caulk will soon be covered in dust/dirt and look like crap. At Home Depot they have quarter round and other trim made of a composite plastic, which eliminates the need for painting and rot concerns. If you hand nail, use galvanized, and if you use wood trim not plastic then drill pilot holes. socketwrencher fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Dec 8, 2014 |
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Dec 8, 2014 00:23
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themaninblack posted:Thanks for all the help on my bathroom. I don't believe it is a wet bathroom, as the walls are dry wall (I believe, I'm completely new to most of this - trying to learn). However, the floor is completely tile. If the walls are drywall, then it isn't a wet bathroom. Wet bathrooms are entirely tile. Well, maybe not the ceiling, but definitely the walls and floor are tile, with all of the floor sloped towards the floor drain. What did you use to put up your Halloween decorations that won't come off later? Pictures of your damage would definitely help on how to best repair it. Getting good paint results is all about the prep work. Use a scraper to clean off all of the chips and flakes you can. Sand the surfaces to both give your new paint more surface area to stick to and to smooth any surface edges. Say it out loud with me now: "Paint is for covering only, NOT for hiding surface imperfections." Use tape and drop cloths for anything that you don't want paint to drip onto (not as big a problem outdoors). As for matching paint, if you don't have left over paint from the previous owners that matches and is still liquid enough to be used, then get a 1 inch square of paint that you can take to the hardware store so that they can use their computer to match the color. If need be, then use a utility knife to carefully cut away that square from a good surface. Correction: CLEAN 1 inch square, try and keep your grubby fingerprints off of it. When it comes to matching paint, the rule pretty much is that matching color is easy, but matching sheen is not. Since this is an outside wall however, sunlight will fade all of the paint anyway, taking care of any mismatching sheen splotches eventually. As for trying to learn how to become a better homeowner, here's a some advice: 1. there is no such thing as a maintenance free home. Accept it. 2. you have this thread, we're glad to help 3. you'd be surprised how good a resource Youtube is now for fixing things 4. watch some home improvement shows on TV so you can learn the basics for how homes are constructed, like how walls and floors are built, the layering of surfaces, etc 5. you can fix pretty much any major appliance by googling the make and model along with "service manual" 6. Probably the most dangerous thing to watch out for as a homeowner is to make sure that all your flues and exhausts are clear. If they aren't, that's how you get home fires and carbon monoxide indoors. 7. Smoke detectors are your friend, no matter how many nuisance alarms you get from your bad cooking.
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Dec 8, 2014 02:40
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kid sinister posted:7. Smoke detectors are your friend, no matter how many nuisance alarms you get from your bad cooking.
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Dec 8, 2014 02:47
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themaninblack posted:Thanks for all the help on my bathroom. I don't believe it is a wet bathroom, as the walls are dry wall (I believe, I'm completely new to most of this - trying to learn). However, the floor is completely tile. In addition to kid sinister's suggestions, don't forget to use primer before painting over the block/brick/concrete. Follow the directions on the can regarding when not to apply it (avoiding inclement weather, etc.). FWIW, I've had really good results with Glidden's "Gripper" primer for exterior work. Two thinner coats of just about any primer or paint is better than one thick coat. If you live in an area that stays damp/wet most of the winter, wait until things warm up, the house will survive. Make sure plants etc. are trimmed back away from the house.
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Dec 8, 2014 05:14
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socketwrencher posted:In addition to kid sinister's suggestions, don't forget to use primer before painting over the block/brick/concrete. Follow the directions on the can regarding when not to apply it (avoiding inclement weather, etc.). FWIW, I've had really good results with Glidden's "Gripper" primer for exterior work. Two thinner coats of just about any primer or paint is better than one thick coat. If you live in an area that stays damp/wet most of the winter, wait until things warm up, the house will survive. Make sure plants etc. are trimmed back away from the house. poo poo, forgot about primer, you're right. Primer is stickier than regular paint, which makes it great as a first coat, especially on surfaces that regular paint will have a hard time adhering to once dry. Since it has that "sticky" quality, primer is useful as a coating over a crumbling surface once you're removed as many of the loose pieces as possible. There are also primers made for sealing rust on metal surfaces, again once you've removed all the loose pieces of rust.
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Dec 8, 2014 06:26
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SiGmA_X posted:Isn't this often due to poor placement of smoke detectors? That's what it has seemed like to me at least. (Plus bad cooking, of course, lol) If you aren't burning things and they nuisance trip anyway, yes. The most popular nuisance trips I've seen are having a photoelectric smoke too close to a bathroom door or a stove, and they trip because of steam. We had one in a B&B that would trip every time the bathroom door was opened after the occupant took a shower. I eventually had to start fining them for nuisance trips to "convince" them to get it fixed. It was moved a total of 2 feet and has never nuisance tripped again. Since smokes aren't typically required in a kitchen (depends on the house/apartment layout) I've always been a fan of heat detectors in rooms like that, with smokes throughout the rest. Heats ususally do NOT count toward your "required" coverage, but they still help your coverage.
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Dec 8, 2014 16:27
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