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cursedshitbox posted:Voltage during cranking sufficient? Aaaah. Yes, it's getting up to about 12V during cranking. I have that gauge right next to my head in the driver's seat, so that's handy.
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Dec 6, 2014 00:17
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| # ? May 24, 2024 02:37 |
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When it cranks, does it: A. Crank forever with no sounds of it "catching" B. Crank, sputter almost to life or sputter like it's trying to turn on, but doesn't stay running or C. Crank, start running, but immediately die?
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Dec 6, 2014 00:17
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Adiabatic posted:When it cranks, does it: B.
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Dec 6, 2014 00:18
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Yeah check fuel pressure. Edit: would help if that gauge were functional  Edit edit: VVVVVV He's got an in-line gauge on the passenger side, if you look at the first pic in the OP. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Dec 6, 2014 |
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Dec 6, 2014 00:19
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Woot! Now the fun things. Verify spark during cranking. pop a plug wire off, stuff a screwdriver in the fucke rand stick it near something metal. look for an arc. don't touch the fucker while doing this! Verify fuel pressure. don't have a fuel pressure reader? grab the old style tire pressure gauge and measure whats at the shrader valve on the fuel rail. I can't remember if these have test ports or not. EFB: Beaten' like a gimp in a dungeon. goddammit.
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Dec 6, 2014 00:19
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cursedshitbox posted:Woot! Now the fun things. Okay. I'll have to give this a shot when it's daylight, and when I have a helping hand. I don't have much helping hands around the area, since my mom pretty much says, "IT'S YOUR CAR" and doesn't really help that much. I'll get an old-timey tire pressure gauge when I get the chance. I have a feeling it's useful for all number of things.
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Dec 6, 2014 00:27
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First confirm fuel and spark as mentioned. Ensure plug/coil wires are snug. Remember the spark plugs on these are a bitch to get at. There is a tool to pull the plugs in your tool kit next to the spare tire (or at least there should be). Was it running well before the no start fiasco? Download that OEM shop manual (or get a Haynes), pop the passenger kick panel off and run the codes off the ECU LED lights. Crank angle sensors were common to go on these 20 years ago, I can't imagine they've gotten more reliable. ECUs were known to go too. I had to replace the one in my 1985 around 1992 or so. Does it sound like it's backfiring or anything at all when cranking? If so, I'd be concerned with timing and a cam jumping. We can go down that road later if you need to. I don't think these have a test port for fuel pressure unless the PO installed one with his gauge setup.
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Dec 6, 2014 01:57
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take a video of trying to start it
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Dec 6, 2014 02:03
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Is the distributor in the front of the motor like the old L series? If so, check the connection to the bottom of the distributor. Maybe it got knocked loose when changing the belt. If you spray a little ether into it and it starts, my guess would be fuel pump/wiring.
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Dec 6, 2014 02:25
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Okay. I'll have to give this a shot when it's daylight, and when I have a helping hand. I don't have much helping hands around the area, since my mom pretty much says, "IT'S YOUR CAR" and doesn't really help that much. You have a gauge as Adiabatic pointed out. Ignore my babble.
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Dec 6, 2014 03:11
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cursedshitbox posted:You have a gauge as Adiabatic pointed out. Ignore my babble. The gauge on the engine on the passenger side is non-functional. Or, at least, I suspect it is non-functional. It has liquid inside of it.
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Dec 6, 2014 04:05
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Many times pressure gauges are liquid filled. I'd see if it does anything when you try cranking. Edit: See if it registers when you have the key to on but the engine off. If it does, tell us the number.
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Dec 6, 2014 04:07
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Liquid filled pressure gauges are indeed a thing. iirc it gives a more accurate reading. E: VVVVVVV Bugger. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Dec 6, 2014 |
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Dec 6, 2014 04:07
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cursedshitbox posted:Liquid filled pressure gauges are indeed a thing. As in it looks like either fuel/oil drops inside of the gauge face.
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Dec 6, 2014 04:19
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Liquid filled gauges are filled with oil, although typically not colored as that would be counter productive. It should be very full, as in 80%+ if it is supposed to be filled. Just drops or condensation means it's a P.O.S. and broke.
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Dec 6, 2014 04:47
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slidebite posted:Liquid filled gauges are filled with oil, although typically not colored as that would be counter productive. It should be very full, as in 80%+ if it is supposed to be filled. Just drops or condensation means it's a P.O.S. and broke. Yeah, it's a POS. I already got that covered by a few people.
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Dec 6, 2014 05:33
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ZX guys. does anybody remember what the injection pressure is on his car? Cause if its under ~50psi, I have a good in line pressure gauge I'll send to this guy tomorrow. E: Given that he wants it. Its left-ups form shitpile of course.
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Dec 6, 2014 05:37
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cursedshitbox posted:ZX guys. does anybody remember what the injection pressure is on his car? Cause if its under ~50psi, I have a good in line pressure gauge I'll send to this guy tomorrow. I'll take it, sure.
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Dec 6, 2014 08:16
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36psi with engine off or vacuum reference disconnected, ~29psi with vacuum line on, 36psi at wot and 1:1 increase per psi of boost.
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Dec 6, 2014 09:05
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Is it cranking over at normal speed? It still might be an electrical issue, after all you just had no belt for the alternator for a while. Just seems weird to move on from electrical to suspecting fuel or something... Co-incidences happen, but with an unknown battery, electrics and a known terrible battery wiring, I'd still be looking there, unless the motor is cranking over at the full RPM it should be and (edit) it's easy to test it for spark as well. Do people still use hydrometers to check batteries? I used to use them ages ago when I had carbed cars, maybe use that and check if the battery is healthy enough to not suffer from low voltage while cranking as it's going to need to be good while the wiring is bad. Also can't rule out charging/jumping shenanigans, if you stuffed that up, you could have fried something in your ECU. I hope you got a good charger and charged it while disconnected from your (lovely) battery terminals. I couldn't drive my 2004 model ute yesterday anyway due to a flat battery to had to go through the same thing  I know there's not much risk with charging or jumping that, but older EFI cars were more susceptible to being damaged by jump starts or connecting chargers straight up to them. (Dunno, I went from carbs to haltech, missing the lovely EFI decades, and only owned post 1997 modern efi cars) Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:53 on Dec 6, 2014 |
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Dec 6, 2014 15:46
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I use a small Ctek battery conditioner on older batteries myself, and I've found it can often rescue borderline ones that I've let get low, or at least get me a little more time out of them.
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Dec 6, 2014 18:37
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Fo3 posted:Is it cranking over at normal speed? Well, sometimes it doesn't crank over at all. Just goes clunk. Then it does crank over and it catches and then shuts off immediately. Hopefully it's not the ECU, that sounds very expensive. I don't like expensive things. :< Battery is running at 12V, I have a gauge near my head on the driver's side that displays the voltage when the car is set to run.
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Dec 6, 2014 19:53
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A battery can show 12v and still be shot. In fact, a healthy battery will show more than 12V. Not quite sure what you mean by "clunk" and "catches then shuts off immediately" Can you take a quick vid and upload to youtube or something? Would make it easier to assist.
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Dec 6, 2014 20:05
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slidebite posted:A battery can show 12v and still be shot. In fact, a healthy battery will show more than 12V. Not quite sure what you mean by "clunk" and "catches then shuts off immediately" I'd love to, but I'd need someone holding the camera.
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Dec 6, 2014 20:20
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The audio will probably be more important than the video. Can you just put the camera on a table or something near the engine compartment and crank?
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Dec 6, 2014 20:38
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Oooookay, just found something interesting. Bitchin' Betty, when I turn the key to run, says, "FUEL LEVEL LOW". ..... Goddammit, did this guy suck out all my gas or something? Alternately, the fuel pressure is hosed. I'm going to try gas first. That's the easiest thing to fix. fishception fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Dec 6, 2014 |
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Dec 6, 2014 20:42
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Sperglord Firecock posted:..... Goddammit, did this guy suck out all my gas or something? ...Do you know that your fuel gauge works / is accurate?
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Dec 6, 2014 22:39
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Raluek posted:...Do you know that your fuel gauge works / is accurate? Pretty sure the fuel pressure gauge does not work. Voltage is running a bit low again, down around 11. Gonna see if I can get a charge pack from my neighbor and use that.
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Dec 6, 2014 23:25
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Pretty sure the fuel pressure gauge does not work. No, I mean the gauge that tells you how much fuel is in the tank.
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Dec 6, 2014 23:36
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Oooookay, just found something interesting. lmao
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Dec 6, 2014 23:44
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I mean technically we were right about the low fuel pressure
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Dec 6, 2014 23:49
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Yea that gauge might be fine after all, haha.
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Dec 6, 2014 23:50
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rscott posted:are you sure you have gas?
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Dec 6, 2014 23:58
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I don't have much helping hands around the area, since my mom pretty much says, "IT'S YOUR CAR" and doesn't really help that much. Moms: holding you back from putting gas in your car.
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Dec 7, 2014 00:13
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feel good thread of the year
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Dec 7, 2014 00:45
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It was not the gas. :< More troubleshooting to occur tomorrow when it's light out.
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Dec 7, 2014 01:06
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Have YOUR MOM hold the camera while cranking the motor.
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Dec 7, 2014 02:29
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My mom is cool as hell, she's always down to help 
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Dec 8, 2014 21:28
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Tried to record it today. It has stopped cranking entirely, probably need to jump it again before it'll do its weird hiccup-notstart.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:01
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| # ? May 24, 2024 02:37 |
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Investing in a cheap 6/2 manual battery charger might not be a bad buy at this point.
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Dec 8, 2014 23:38
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